Winter Trifecta by DROPS Design

Knitted hat, neck-warmer and wrist warmers in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. The piece is worked with rib.

DROPS 225-17
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-730
Yarn group E or C + C
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L
Fits head-size: 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400-450 g colour 89, clay

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
300-300 g colour 15, mauve

HAT:

SIZE:
One-size
Fits head-size: 54/56 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150 g colour 89, clay

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
100 g colour 15, mauve

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L
Measurements: Shoulder-width: approx. 34-36 cm. Height: approx. 28-30 cm (from shoulder down).

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
250-250 g colour 89, clay

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-200 g colour 15, mauve

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

WRIST-WARMERS:

SIZE:
One-size
Measurements: Circumference approx.: 18 cm. Length approx.: 16 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
50 g colour 89, clay

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
50 g colour 15, mauve

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Neck-warmer: See diagrams A.1, A.3 and A.4.
Wrist-warmers: See diagram A.1.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced – for neck-warmer):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 29 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 7) = 4.1. 
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for neck-warmer):
All increases are worked from the right side:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over On the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The turn-up is worked from the wrong side, the piece is then turned and the rest of the hat is worked in the opposite direction and from the right side. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 64 stitches with short circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 for 12 cm.
Now turn the piece, so the rest of the hat is continued in the round but in the opposite direction. When the hat is finished the turn-up will have the same textured pattern as the rest of the hat.
Continue A.1in the round.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until the piece measures 24 cm (including the 10 cm turn-up; there is approx. 8 cm left to finished length – work to desired length).
Continue with A.2 (= 4 repeats of 16 stitches). When the diagram is finished in height, there are 32 stitches. Work 2 rounds with knit 1 / purl 1. Then knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 16 stitches. Knit 1 round. Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 8 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 35 cm (= 25 cm with 10 cm turn-up).

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NECK-WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in 2 sections, with circular needle and is sewn together at the shoulders. A double neck is worked to finish.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 43-45 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When the rib measures 4 cm, work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work A.3 over the first 7 stitches, knit 29-31 and decrease 7 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work A.4 over the last 7 stitches = 36-38 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 9 mm.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern over the 7 stitches on each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 5 cm, increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 8 stitches on each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm a total of 3 times on each side = 42-44 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 20-22 cm. Now place the middle 8 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Left shoulder:
Work the next row from the right side as follows: Work pattern as before until there are 5 stitches left before the neck, knit 2 together, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work 1 row back from the wrong side as before.
Continue back and forth like this, decreasing for the neck on each row from the right side a total of 4 times = 13-14 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 28-30 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side.
Right shoulder:
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work the rest of the row as before. Work 1 row back from the wrong side.
Continue back and forth like this, decreasing for the neck on each row from the right side a total of 4 times = 13-14 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 28-30 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 43-45 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth.
When the rib measures 4 cm, work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work A.3 over the first 7 stitches, knit 29-31 and decrease 7 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.4 over the last 7 stitches = 36-38 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 9 mm.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern over the 7 stitches on each side.
When the piece measures 5 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 8 stitches on each side – remember INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm a total of 3 times on each side = 42-44 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 26-28 cm. Now place the middle 14 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Continue by casting off 1 stitch for the neck = 13-14 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue working until the piece measures 28-30 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together with grafting stitches, inside the cast-off edge.

DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up approx. 64 stitches around the neck, from the right side and inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 8 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. The number of stitches should be divisible by 2.
Work A.1 in the round. When the neck measures 20 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. It is important the edge is not tight – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and the neck rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.

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WRIST-WARMERS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.

WRIST-WARMER:
Cast on 24 stitches with double pointed needles size 8 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. Knit 1 round. Then work A.1 in the round.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When the piece measures 10 cm, increase 2 stitches as follows: Knit 1 twisted, purl 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), work the next 11 stitches as before, purl 1, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), work the last 11 stitches as before. You have increased 1 stitch on each side of the piece = 26 stitches (work the yarn overs twisted on the next round and then purl the new stitches).
Continue with knit-twisted over knit-twisted and purl over purl. When the piece measures 16 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
Work 1 more wrist-warmer in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit 1 twisted from right side, purl 1 twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl 1 from right side, knit 1 from wrong side
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = this square has no stitch as it was decreased earlier; go straight to the next symbol in the diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 225-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Tina wrote:

Er det mulig å følge denne oppskriften men strikke "vanlige" istedenfor vridde masker? Vil strikkefastheten da være den samme?

24.11.2022 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, ja bare du holder den strikkefasthed som står i opskriften :)

30.11.2022 kl. 13:52

country flag Marja Steinhoff wrote:

Tuo "taitereuna" hämmentää. Työn kääntäminen ei vaikuta lopputulokseen mitenkään muuten, kuin että käännöskohtaan jaa reikä. Mikä pn tarkoitus tuolla kääntämisellä? Sama lopputulos, mutta siistimpi, olisi jos työtä vain jatkaisi normaalisti ja kääntäsi sen 10- 12 cm viimeistelyvaiheessa työn päälle. Mikä siis on se 'juju' tässä olevinaan?

22.10.2022 - 16:55

country flag Manuela wrote:

Hallo,\r\nWenn ich bei der Mütze dann innen weiter stricke, dann sehe ich keinen Unterschied, oder muss ich die linken Maschen dann rechts stricken und rechte Maschen links?\r\n\r\nVielen Dank\r\nManuela

06.01.2022 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manuela, stricken Sie wie zuvor (= A.1) (die letzte Maschen der Runde war die 1. Masche in A.1, und ist jetzt die 1. Masche der Runde = 1. Masche A.1 = rechts verschränkte Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.01.2022 kl. 16:35

country flag Louise wrote:

Jag ska sticka mössan. Förstår dock inte vad det betyder att ”vända arbetet”. Ska jag ta stickorna och vända dem så den som är den med garnet på blir den som matar? Alltså spegelvända det? Eller ska jag göra något annat med stickorna ? Ska sidan där tråden är bli på andra sidan alltså , genom att vända det?

01.12.2021 - 21:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Louise. Du vänder hela arbetet (du viker alltså ner arbetet under stickorna när du vänt det) och börjar sticka tillbaka där du precis har stickat. Mvh DROPS Design

03.12.2021 kl. 11:26

country flag Sharon wrote:

Hi, how do I avoid a hole when working from the wrong side? Thanks for your response. S

28.11.2021 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you can avoid having a hole when turning the piece, if you pull the yarn really thight at the next stitch. If the hole is still there, you can try to a stitch by raising the ladder between two stitches, putting it on the needle twisted and knit together with the first stitch. Happy

28.11.2021 kl. 23:18

country flag Christina wrote:

Hello, thank you for such a quick response. I think so. Can I confirm then that the pattern changes to k1, p1, purl 2 together at 16. With A2, the explanations means a blank box is knit 1 twisted from right side, put 1 twisted from wrong side. And the box with a dash is purl 1 from right side, knit 1 from wrong side. And A2 has these dashes so I thought it was to read (purl 2 together, purl one from right side, knit one from wrong side. But I should ignore this and the diagram explanation? TY!

19.11.2021 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christina, hat is worked in the round, this means you will always work rib with K1 twisted/P1; the fisrt 2 rounds in A.2 are worked over 16 sts, you will start decrease as shown in diagram on row 3 in A.2, and there will be 8 sts in each A.2 when diagram is done (black square are for decreased sts). Since hat is worked in the round, you will always decrease by P2 tog just as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

22.11.2021 kl. 07:28

country flag Christina wrote:

I’m having trouble with A2. When I am on row 3 (which starts with purling 2 together) it’s supposed to be 16 stitches x 4. But 16 stitches takes you to the second purl decrease in that row. Thereafter there’s only 12 stitches which makes 28, so the pattern would only apply to 56 stitches but I have 64. Am I missing something?? Thank you!

18.11.2021 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christina, work A.2 in the round reading every row from the right towards the left, this means on 3rd row you will decrease 2 sts (= there will be 14 sts in each A.2 instead of 16 sts): (K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P2 tog, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, P2 tog)= 14 sts x 4 in the round = 56 sts remain after 3rd round has been worked. Can this help?

19.11.2021 kl. 07:38

country flag Sandra Clayton wrote:

Thank you so much again. The problem is I don't know how to do K1 twisted or the P1 twisted! Sorry about this! Sandra

18.11.2021 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, then we have 2 videos for you: This one shows how to knit a twisted stitch (= work into back of stitch instead of front loop) and this one shows how to purl a twisted stitch = work into back loop instead of into the front loop as usual. Happy knitting!

18.11.2021 kl. 17:09

country flag Sandra Clayton wrote:

Thank you so much for getting back to me. the problem I have though is with the K1 twisted and the P1 twisted stitches. I've watched numerous videos and they all seem to involve working 2 stitches for the twist and then a purl or knit, so 3 stiches in total. Is this correct or is there a different way of twisting the stitch? Thank you, Sandra

17.11.2021 - 12:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, I might not understand your question properly, sorry in advance, when working the rib as diagram A.1, repeat (K1 twisted/P1) from RS, this means the K twisted will be P twisted from WS and the P1 will be knitted from WS. Can this help?

17.11.2021 kl. 16:41

country flag Sandra Clayton wrote:

Help! I can't work out how to do A1 on the Winter Trifecta neck warmer pattern.

11.11.2021 - 15:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Clayton, A.1 is worked as follows back and forth: from RS: K1 twisted, P1 - and from WS: K1, P1 twisted. When working in the round work: K1 twisted, P1. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

11.11.2021 kl. 17:34

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