DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
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Willow Winds

Knitted hat and neck warmer in DROPS Polaris. Piece is knitted in rib.

DROPS 225-39

#willowwindsset

DROPS design: Pattern po-119
Yarn group F or E + E
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - L

MATERIALS:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group F)
600-600 g colour 06, light beige

HAT:

SIZE:
S/M – L
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group F)
300-300 g colour 06, light beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 12 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
8 stitches in width and 10 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

NECK WARMER:

SIZE:
S/M - L

MATERIALS:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group F)
300-300 g colour 06, light beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 12 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 12 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
8 stitches in width and 10 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to neck):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 54 stitches), minus stitches in garter stitch in each side (e.g. 4 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle, and sewn together when finished.

HAT:
Cast on 40-44 stitches on circular needle size 12 mm with DROPS Polaris. Work rib back and forth over all stitches (= knit 2/purl 2). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 1 marker on the side of piece that has small buckles on first row of piece = right side, this is done to make the bottom edge on hat pretty when the edge is folded up later. When piece measures 12 cm, purl 1 row from wrong side decreasing 1-2 stitches evenly = 39-42 stitches. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 2), seen from right side.

Work until piece measures 31 cm in total from cast-on edge – adjust so that next row is worked from right side (= the side with marker).
Now decrease at the top of hat as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches together 2 by 2 until 1-0 stitches remain, knit 1-0 stitches = 20-21 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl from wrong side.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit all stitches together 2 by 2 until 0-1 stitch remains, knit 0-1 stitch = 10-11 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull yarn through the remaining stitches and tighten together. Sew sides together on hat in outermost loop of edge stitch, make sure to sew from right side and that the seam is flat. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Fold the bottom 12 cm of hat.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Work piece top down from mid back. Work first in the round until increase for shoulder is done. Then work front piece and back piece back and forth separately.

NECK:
Cast on 36-40 stitches on double pointed needles size 12 mm with DROPS Polaris. Knit 1 round. Then work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Work rib like this for 10 cm.

Insert a marker after 18-20 stitches (= mid front) - MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
In addition insert 4 new marker in the piece as explained below - this is done without working the stitches, and each of these 4 markers are inserted between 2 stitches. Use markers when increasing for saddle shoulder and use a different colour than marker for measurement.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows:

1st marker: Begin mid back, count 5-6 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1st marker before next stitch.
2nd marker: Count 7 stitches from 1st marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker before next stitch.
3rd marker: Count 11-13 stitches from 2nd marker (= front piece), insert 3rd marker before next stitch.
4th marker: Count 7 stitches from 3rd marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker before next stitch.
6-7 stitches remain on back piece after 4th marker.

Move these 4 markers upwards when working, increase at each of these markers later.

Work in stocking stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase only on front piece and back piece, and number of shoulder stitches stays the same.
Continue in the round like this and increase the same way on every round 6-7 times in total = 60-68 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Work next round as follows: Knit until shoulder stitches, cast off by knitting over the 7 shoulder stitches - read CAST-OFF TIP, knit over the next 23-27 stitches before slipping them on a thread for front piece, cast off the next 7 shoulder stitches, work until mid back. Cut the yarn.

BACK PIECE:
= 23-27 stitches. Work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side. When neck measures 20-21 cm from marker inserted after the neck, increase 5-5 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 28-32 stitches. Now work rib from right side as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (cast off stitches in garter stitch by knitting), back piece measures approx. 24-25 cm from marker at the neck.

FRONT PIECE:
Slip stitches from thread back on circular needle size 12 mm and work the same way as back piece.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

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Princess Pebbles & Willow Winds

Daniela, Switzerland

Comments / Questions (6)

Sharon Hunt wrote:

Hi I have now inserted all markers. I am now about to increase at the 3. My question is am I supposed to increase then slip the marker or slip the marker then work the increase? Many thanks for your help.

25.02.2023 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, if you increase before the marker, then your increase will be the stitch right before the marker. If you are increasing after the marker, then you slip the marker and increase right after it. You increase BEFORE the markers at the 1st and 3rd markers and AFTER the markers at the 2nd and 4th markers. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 - 20:58

Hi! Am working on the neck warmer in this sett. To place the markers I knitting across the so stitches then placed the markers, this seems logical, but is it correct? I am wondering how would I know the end and beginning of the round? Am assuming the end of the round would be after knitting the 21 stitches which is now increased according to the instructions at the first and 4 marker? This is the first time am making a neck warmer this way so am not sure if what have done so far is correct.

18.02.2023 - 15:48

Dear Sharon, the markers are introduced without working. Start from the beginning of the round (the same beginning as in previous rounds) and introduce the markers as indicated for your size. If you are working the smaller size, insert as follows: 5sts, 1st marker, 7sts, 2nd marker, 11 sts (insert the mid-front marker after the 6th st, then count 5 more), 3rd marker, 7 sts, 4th marker, 6 sts remain until the beginning of the round (= 36 sts). Then, proceed to increase before or after the 4 markers as indicated in the pattern. The mid-front marker is not used for the increases. Happy knitting!

19.02.2023 - 22:20

Hi! Could this hat be done in the round?

04.02.2023 - 12:35

Dear Sharon, yes, you could work it in the round; remember to remove the edge stitches. Happy knitting!

05.02.2023 - 23:06

Maggi Vermcrantz wrote:

I instruktionen står det tex strumpstickor nummer 12. Men i länken har stickorna inget nummer. Skall jag tolka nummer 12 som grovlek 12 mm?

26.12.2022 - 22:36

Hei Maggi. Litt usikker på hva du mener med länken , men halsen strikkes med pinne 12 mm, det brukes både rundpinne og settpinner ( i str. 12 mm, kan også skrives som bare 12). mvh DROPS Design

02.01.2023 - 13:11

Maria Krbalová wrote:

Dobrý den. Prosím poraďte s určením lícové strany u cepic s ohrnutím: když si zvolím lícovou stranu na ohrnovací části, zbytek čepice je v tomto případě je rubová strana, protože před ohrnutím "lícová" strana ohrnovací části byla na rubové straně. Mám pak potíže si určit, v které řadě a jak mám ujímat. Děkuji

20.11.2022 - 13:50

Dobrý den, Mario, nejsnazší je podívat se na úplný začátek pletení, na nahozenou řadu. Z jedné strany je nahozený okraj tvořený řadou "čárek", z druhé strany má malé hrbolky. Tu stranu práce, která má v první řadě malé hrbolky, si v tomto případě označíme jako lícovou = po ohrnutí se hrbolatý lem schová a na lícu zůstane ten úhledný "čárkovaný" (který máme nyní na rubu) . Hodně zdaru! Hana

08.03.2023 - 10:25

SUZAN wrote: