DROPS / 83 / 3

DROPS 83-3 by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress in Eskimo

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-98-106-118-128 cm [36.25" - 38 5/8" - 41.75" - 46.5" - 50 3/8"]
Waist: 80-86-94-106-118 cm [31.5" - 33 7/8" - 37" - 41.75" - 46.5"]
Hip: 94-102-112-120-128 cm [37" - 40 1/8" - 44" - 47.25" - 50 3/8"]
Hem: 102-112-120-128-134 cm [40 1/8" - 44" - 47.25" - 50 3/8" - 52.75"]

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO, from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-900 gr nr 01, natural

DROPS 15 mm [US 19] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 7 sts x 14 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *.

Measuring-tips: Measure the piece when lying flat – the piece will be approx. 10-15 cm longer than the measurements on the diagram when the garment is worn.

Front: Cast on 36-39-42-45-47 sts and knit rib as follows:
Size S: *K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3* repeat * - *, finish with K 3, P 4, and K 3.
Size M: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *
Size L: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *, finish with K 3.
Size XL: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *, finish with K 3, P 3.
Size XXL: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * *, finish with K 3, P 3, K 3.
When the piece measures 10 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 33-36-39-42-45 sts. When the piece measures 25 cm – adjust so that the next row is a right side row – then knit garter st to finished measurements.
When the piece measures 26 cm dec 3-3-3-3-2 sts evenly distributed. Then dec 2-3-3-2-2 sts evenly distributed when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40 cm = 28-30-33-37-41 sts.
When the piece measures 46-47-48-49-50 cm inc 1 st at each side. Repeat inc when the piece measures 55-56-57-58-59 cm = 32-34-37-41-45 sts.
When the piece measures 62-63-64-66-67 cm – see Measuring-tips above – bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 0-1-2-2-4 times = 28-28-29-29-29 sts. When the piece measures 74-76-78-80-82 cm bind off the center 8-8-9-9-9 sts for the neck. Dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row: 2 times = 8 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 82-84-86-88-90 cm.

Back: Cast on the same as the front, and knit rib as follows:
Size S: P 3, *K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3* repeat * - *, finish with K 3 and P 4.
Size M: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *
Size L: *P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3*, repeat * - *, finish with P 3.
Size XL: *K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *, finish with K 3, P 3.
Size XXL: * P 3, K 3, P 3, K 3, P 4, K 3 *, repeat * *, finish with P 3, K 3, P 3.
When the piece measures 10 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 33-36-39-42-45 sts, and then continue as on front. Bind off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 80-82-84-86-88 bind off the center 10-10-11-11-11 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 8 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 82-84-86-88-90 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 26-26-28-28-28 sts and knit rib as follows:
Sizes S + M: * K 3, P 4, K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *.
Sizes L + XL + XXL: *K 3, P 4*, repeat * - *
When the piece measures 7 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 24 sts. When the piece measures 25-25-27-27-27 cm – adjust so that the next row is a right side row – change to garter st to finished measurements.
On the 1st row of garter st adjust evenly distributed to 22-22-24-24-26 sts. When the piece measures 33 and 42 cm inc 1 st at each side = 26-26-28-28-30 sts. When sleeve measures 47-47-47-44-43 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2-3-4-6-8 times, then 2 sts at each side until piece measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew right shoulder.
Collar: Pick up 29-32 sts around the neck and K 1 row from wrong side and K 1 row from right side. On the 2nd row adjust to 30-30-30-35-35 sts (divisible by 5). Knit the next row (wrong side) as follows: * K 3, P 2 *, repeat * - * (from the right side the rib will be K 2/ P 3).
Continue with rib over all sts. When the collar measures 10 cm inc every other K 2 to K 3 = 33-33-39-39-39 sts. When the piece measures 20 cm inc the remaining K 2 to K 3 = 36-36-42-42-42 sts (the rib = K 3/ P 3).
When the piece measures 30 cm inc every other K 3 to K 4 = 39-39-46-46-46 sts. When the piece measures 35 cm inc the remaining K 3 to K 4 = 42-42-49-49-49 sts (the rib = K 4/ P 3 seen from the right side).
When the piece measures 40 cm bind off all sts in rib, increasing 3 sts evenly distributed on the row so that the bound-off edge will not be too tight.
Sew left shoulder and up along the collar. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 83-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Theo 12.08.2017 - 17:26:

Is er ook iemand die dit model wil breien voor mij tegen vergoeding?

Valery 28.10.2015 - 11:26:

Encore moi. Jai presque termine. Jen suis en 47 cm pour les manches. Je sais que cest similaire a lemmanchure pour le devant, mais jai besoin dune confirmation pour pouvoir bien le faire. Merci

DROPS Design 28.10.2015 kl. 11:53:

Bonjour Valéry, à 47 cm, en taille S, vous rabattez au début de chaque rang de chaque côté (= sur l'endroit et sur l'envers): 1 fois 2 m, 2 fois 1 m, puis vous rabattez 2 m toujours au début de chaque rang de chaque côté (= sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 55 cm de hauteur totale, et rabattez les mailles restantes au rang suivant sur l'endroit (le nombre de rangs/m restantes dépendra de votre nbe de rangs en hauteur pour avoir la hauteur indiquée). Bon tricot!

Valery 21.10.2015 - 02:16:

Bonjour, merci pour l'aide que vous m'avez apporté Je suscite à nouveau de l'aide. Jai maintenant 62cm de fait. Je ne saisis pas le reste de ce quil faut faire. Pouvez-vous m'aider?

DROPS Design 21.10.2015 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Valery, à 62 cm, on forme les emmanchures ainsi: sur l'endroit, rabattez les 2 premières m du rang, tricotez tout le rang, tournez et au début du rang suivant sur l'envers, rabattez 2 m (= 1 fois 2 m rabattues de chaque côté). IL reste 28 m, continuez jusqu'à 74 cm de hauteur totale et rabattez les 8 m centrales pour l'encolure, et terminez chaque côté séparément en rabattant côté encolure 2 fois 1 m tous les 2 rangs. Rabattez toutes les mailles à 82 cm. Bon tricot!

Valery 17.10.2015 - 03:10:

Bonjour, je suis en train dessayer de faire ce patron et il y a une ligne que je ne comprend pas. Pour le devant, je viens de completer 25 cm. Je sais qua partir de la, je dois continuer au point mousse, mais jr ne comprends pas ou je dois faire les diminutions et quand est-ce que je dois les faire. Pouvez-vous maider? P.S. je ne peux aller dans un magasin car il ny en a pas au canada. Merci

DROPS Design 19.10.2015 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Valery, vous continuez effectivement au point mousse à partir de 25 cm de hauteur totale, puis à 26 cm, vous diminuez 3-2 m (cf taille), et diminuez de nouveau 2-3 m à 36-40 cm. Voir ici comment répartir des diminutions è et Cliquez ici pour la liste des revendeurs DROPS au Canada. Bon tricot!

Linda 11.12.2012 - 11:26:

Deze jurk wordt toch wel met dubbele draad gebreid met die wol??

DROPS Design 11.12.2012 kl. 12:33:

Nee, 1 draad. Het model moet heel los gebreid worden.

Lindae 25.11.2012 - 16:11:

7 m giver ikke 10 cm, men derimod 8 cm i bredden uanset hvad man gør, har været forbi flere strikkeforretninger med det og alle steder er beskeden at der er noget galt. Der bliver alt for store "huller" i forhold til billedet. Er det fordi kjolen bliver tættere efter vask at den ser tættere ud i det på billedet???

DROPS Design 04.12.2012 kl. 11:57:

Modellen på billedet er altså strikket med en strikkefasthed på 7 m og 10 cm i retstrik. Sørg for at du strikker løst det er let at strikke for stramt på p 15

Lindae 25.11.2012 - 13:32:

Er der ikke fejl i denne opskrift? Da jeg strikkede den som der står bliver den ALT ALT for åben, med store "huller" I strikkeforretningen var meldingen klar : "du skal strikke med dobbelt garn" Den bliver faktisk rigtig fin når man strikker den i dobbeltgarn som jeg så har gjort, men så passer garnmængden man skal købe ikke, der går så noget mere til.

DROPS Design 25.11.2012 kl. 15:45:

Den bliver kun strikket med 1 traad, men modellen skal vaere ret löst strikket (p 15). Er strikkefastheden til mönstret overholdt (7 m x 14 p = 10 x 10 cm) saa er modellen som den skal vaere.

Vale 29.06.2009 - 06:11:

Which means Front: Cast on 36-39-42-45-47 sts and knit rib as follows???

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