DROPS / 221 / 35

Easy Twist Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL 

  • Easy Twist Cardigan / DROPS 221-35 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL 
  • Easy Twist Cardigan / DROPS 221-35 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL 
  • Easy Twist Cardigan / DROPS 221-35 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL 
  • Easy Twist Cardigan / DROPS 221-35 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL 
DROPS design: Pattern w-828
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE: 
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS: 
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour no 59, old pink

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for edges in stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for rib. 
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 6-7-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 0.60 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.60 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth): 
Knit all rows.  
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, count the stitches to be increased (e.g. 9 stitches) and divide by stitches of increases to be done (e.g. 3) = 3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 3rd stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies from right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies from wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves in size XL-XXL-XXXL): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, stitches, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for 6-7-7-7-7-7 buttonholes on right band.
1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together, make 1 yarn over - NOTE: It will look nicer if you decrease for buttonhole by purling 2 together in a section with 2 purl stitches (seen from right side). On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Bottom buttonhole should be approx. 4-6 cm from bottom edge, and top buttonhole approx. 1 cm from neck edge. Place the remaining 4-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes evenly, approx. 8-7-7½-8-8-8½ cm between each buttonhole.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Increase stitches for saddle shoulder, then increase stitches for yoke, and finally increase stitches for sleeves. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-88-92-96-100-100 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. 
Then work rib from right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 3 cm. 

YOKE:
On next row from right side increase increasing stitches evenly, insert 4 markers in piece. Use markers when increasing for saddle shoulder.
Work as follows - from right side: Cast off the first 5 stitches, work 9 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 0-0-0-1-3-3 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= left front piece), insert 1st marker, A.1 over the next 24 stitches (i.e. knit over knit and purl over purl and increase as shown in diagram = shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker, 12-12-16-20-24-24 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 6-6-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly (= back piece), insert 3rd marker, A.1 over the next 24 stitches (i.e. knit over knit and purl over purl and increase as shown in diagram = shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker, 9 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 0-0-0-1-3-3 stitches evenly and work rib / garter stitch over the last 5 stitches as before (= right front piece). On next row from wrong side cast off the first 5 stitches and continue with A.1 and stocking stitch as before over the remaining stitches = 90-90-90-98-106-106 stitches.
Move the markers upwards when working.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Read all of the following section before working!
Continue piece with 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front, A.2 over stitches in A.1 (27-27-27-29-29-29 stitches), and stocking stitch over stitches on front piece and back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-2. Now increase only on front pieces and back piece, and number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On next row from wrong side increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 4th and 2nd marker and increase AFTER 3rd and 1st marker – read INCREASE TIP-3.
I.e. increase on EVERY row, and increase differently from right and wrong side, so that stitches are placed nicely. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Repeat A.2 vertically.
Continue pattern like this, and increase on every row (i.e. both from right side and wrong side) 10-10-12-12-12-12 times in total (= 130-130-138-146-154-154 stitches).

YOKE INCREASE:
Now move 2 of the markers and insert 4 new markers without working the stitches as follows:
Leave 1st marker, count 13-13-13-14-14-14 stitches of A.2, insert 2nd marker, count 1 stitches of A.2 (= mid on top of shoulder), insert 3rd marker, count 13-13-13-14-14-14 stitches of A.2, insert 4th marker, leave next marker (i.e. before next A.2 = 5th marker), count 13-13-13-14-14-14 stitches of A.2, insert 6th marker, count 1 stitch of A.2, insert 7th marker, count 13-13-13-14-14-14 stitches and insert 8th marker.
On next row from right side continue with pattern as before, and increase as follows:
Increase 1 stitch before 1st, 3th, 5th and 7th marker and 1 stitch after 2nd, 4th, 6th and 8th marker (= 8 stitches increased in total).
On next row from wrong side increase before 8th and 4th marker and after 5th and 1st marker (= 4 stitches increased in total).
I.e. increase is different from right and wrong side - remember INCREASE TIP-2 and 3.
Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch, i.e. there are 2 stitches more between lace pattern in every A.2 for every increase from right side.
From right side increase for both body and sleeve and from wrong side only for body.
Increase for body 6-6-8-8-10-10 more times in total (i.e. increases have been done 16-16-20-20-22-22 times in total for body from neck edge) and 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in total for sleeve = 166-166-186-194-214-214 stitches.
Piece now measures 8-8-10-10-11-11 cm from marker.

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece.
Continue to increase after 2nd and 6th marker and before 3rd and 7th marker (= 4 stitches increased in total). Increase like this on every row 10-12-13-14-14-16 times in total (i.e. 13-15-17-18-19-21 increases done in total on sleeve) = 206-214-238-250-270-278 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 18-20-23-24-25-27 cm. Work until piece measures 18-20-23-24-25-27 cm (approx. 3-3-2-3-4-4 cm remain).
Then increase on every row, i.e. increase as follows from wrong side:
Increase 1 stitch after 7th and 3rd marker, and increase 1 stitch before 6th and 2nd marker (= 4 stitches increased in total). Continue increase both from right and wrong side 6-6-4-6-8-8 times in total (i.e. 3-3-2-3-4-4 times from right side and 3-3-2-3-4-4 times from wrong side) = 230-238-254-274-302-310 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from neck edge.

On next row from right side divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 24-24-28-29-33-33 stitches in stocking stitch, pattern as before over the next 12-12-12-13-13-13 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 41-45-45-51-57-61 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-12-12-14 stitches under sleeve, pattern as before over the next 12-12-12-13-13-13 stitches, 50-50-58-60-68-68 stitches in stocking stitch, pattern as before over the next 12-12-12-13-13-13 stitches ( = back piece), slip the next 41-45-45-51-57-61 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-12-12-14 stitches under sleeve, pattern as before over the next 12-12-12-13-13-13 stitches, 24-24-28-29-33-33 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= front piece).

BODY:
= 168-168-184-196-212-216 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, pattern as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece. Work stitches under sleeve in stocking stitch
When piece measures 22 cm from division (or to desired length, approx. 4 cm remain), increase 8 stitches evenly on next row from wrong side = 176-176-192-204-220-224 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib as follows, begin from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitches in garter stitch. 
Continue like this until rib measures 4 cm. Cast off by knitting– read CAST-OFF TIP. Jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder. 

SLEEVES:
Slip the 41-45-45-51-57-61 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 5.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-10-12-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 51-55-55-63-69-75 stitches.  
Work in stocking stitch in the round.
In size XL-XXL-XXXL decrease stitches as follows:

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 12-12-14 stitches cast on under sleeve. Decrease stitches on each side of this marker later.
When sleeve measures 5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 12-10-5 cm 1-3-5 times in total = 61-63-65 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 51-55-55-61-63-65 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch until piece measures 39-37-36-34-33-31 cm (or desired length, approx. 3 cm remain). 
On next round increase 13-13-13-11-13-11 stitches evenly = 64-68-68-72-76-76 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm. 
Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) over all stitches. 
Cast off by knitting when rib measures 3 cm. 
Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Begin at the top of neck (i.e. from where stitches on neck edge were cast off) on left front piece, pick up stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Pick up approx. 79-99 stitches (adjust to that number of stitches is divisible by 4 + 3) from right side on circular needle 4.5 mm with Paris.
Work rib, begin from wrong side as follows: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 1 stitch remains, and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until band measures approx. 3 cm (adjust measurement with stitches cast off on neck edge). Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Begin at the bottom of jacket on right front piece and pick up stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Pick up same number of stitches that were picked up on left band from right side on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Paris.
Work rib, begin from wrong side as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, and work 2 stitches in garter stitch.
When rib measures approx. 1½ cm, decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Continue rib until band measures 3 cm, adjust measurement with left band. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew band to neck edge where stitches were cast off. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over on next round to make a hole
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = yoke increase
symbols = sleeve increase
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Wiebke 04.06.2021 - 19:38:

Oh ist mir das unangenehm! Mir ist das gerade auch aufgefallen... Vielen Dank! Liebe Grüße von Wiebke

country flag Wiebke 03.06.2021 - 16:38:

DROPS 221-35, Anleitung Seite 4, Passe Ich komme da nicht auf 90 Maschen, auch rechnerisch ergeben das bei mir 94 Maschen: Anschlag 88Maschen, 2x 5 Ma abketten = 78 Ma, 2x A1 = 10Ma Zunahme = 88 Ma, 6 Ma verteilt über den Rücken zunehmen= 94 Ma Was mache ich falsch? Liebe Grüße, Wiebke

user icon DROPS Design 04.06.2021 kl. 06:58:

Liebe Frau Wiebke, es sind nur 3 Maschen in jedem A.1 zugenommen: 88 M + 3 M x 2 (A.1) + 6 M (Rücken) - 10 M (Blende) = 90 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sabine 11.04.2021 - 14:13:

Hallo liebes DROPS-Team! Ich vermute in der deutschen Übersetzung einen kleinen Fehler. Hier heißt es für die erste Reihe nach dem Halsbündchen: "Die ersten 5 Maschen wie zuvor stricken" - im norwegischen Original sowie auch in der französischen und US-englischen Übersetzung werden die ersten 5 Maschen abgekettet. Liebe Grüße, Sabine

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 09:56:

Liebe Sabine, ganz herzlichen Dank für den Hinweis, die Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Anita 15.01.2021 - 05:13:

Helix

country flag Eileen Di Cenzo 13.01.2021 - 19:34:

Pink Dream

country flag Maarte 10.01.2021 - 23:30:

Heather Rose

country flag Merike 09.01.2021 - 09:28:

Sweet summer breeze...

country flag Anna Sarjanen 07.01.2021 - 21:46:

Längta

country flag Anne Birgitte Sciarretta 07.01.2021 - 17:31:

Beachy waves. It looks perfect for an evening on the beach, and the cables look like waves

country flag Doris 07.01.2021 - 17:26:

Schicke Jacke. Würde ich lieber mit BELLE stricken.

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