The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Michelle gloves |
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Knitted gloves with crochet flower in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Glitter. Size children 3 to 12 years.
DROPS Children 23-13 |
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RIGHT GLOVE: Cast on 40-44-48 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with purple. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 6-7-8 cm. Continue in stocking st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec 2 sts evenly = 38-42-46 sts. Insert a marker in 2nd st on round (= thumb st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When 1 cm in stocking st has been worked, beg inc for thumb by making 1 YO on each side of thumb st, on next round work the YOs twisted. Repeat inc every 3rd round 2-3-4 more times (inc on each side of all thumb sts, i.e. there will be 2 more sts between inc for each time you inc) = 7-9-11 thumb sts. When piece measures a total of 9-11-13 cm, slip the 7-9-11 thumb sts + 1 st on each side on a stitch holder (= 9-11-13 sts on stitch holder). Then cast on 3 new sts behind sts on stitch holder = 38-42-46 sts. Continue in stocking st in the round until piece measures 11-14-17 cm. Work next round as follows: Work the first 14-16-17 sts and slip them on a stitch holder = inside hand, keep the next 10-10-12 sts on needle for little finger, and slip the last 14-16-17 sts on another stitch holder = on top of hand. Then work the fingers. LITTLE FINGER: = 10-10-12 sts, in addition cast on 2 new sts towards sts on stitch holders = 12-12-14 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for 3½-4-4½ cm. On next round, work sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. RING FINGER: Slip 4-4-5 sts from each of stitch holders back on needle. Knit in addition up 3 sts towards little finger and cast on 2 new sts towards sts on stitch holders = 13-13-15 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for 4½-5-6 cm. On next round, work sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. MIDDLE FINGER: Slip 4-5-5 sts from each of stitch holders back on needle. Knit in addition up 3 sts towards ring finger and cast on 2 new sts towards sts on stitch holders = 13-15-15 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for 5-6-7 cm. On next round, work sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. INDEX FINGER: Slip the remaining 6-7-7 sts from each of the stitch holders back on needles, knit in addition up 2 sts towards the middle finger = 14-16-16 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for 4½-5-6 cm. On next round, work sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. THUMB: Slip the 9-11-13 sts from stitch holder for thumb back on needles, knit in addition up 5 sts in the edge behind the thumb sts = 14-16-18 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for 3-4-5 cm. On next round, work sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread, pull it through the remaining sts and tighten. LEFT GLOVE: Work as right glove but reversed, i.e. inc for thumb gusset are done on each side of next to last st on the round. When working the little finger, work as follows: Work the first 14-16-17 sts and slip them on a stitch holder = on top of hand, keep the next 10-10-12 sts on needle for little finger, and slip the last 14-16-17 sts on another stitch holder = inside hand. CROCHET FLOWER: Work on hook size 3 mm with Baby Merino + Glitter. Crochet 4 ch with light old pink + silver and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. ROUND 1: 1 ch, 6 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. ROUND 2: Work 4 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), * 1 dc in next dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 6 ch-loops. ROUND 3: 1 ch, then work as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 6 leaves, cut the thread in Baby Merino. ROUND 4 (switch to old pink + silver): Work 7 ch, * 1 dc between the next 2 leaves, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 6 ch-loops. ROUND 5: 1 ch, then work as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 htr, 5 tr, 1 htr and 1 dc, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 6 leaves, cut the thread and fasten the threads. Work a total of 2 flowers like this. Fasten 1 flower on top of each glove. ---------------------------------------------------------- Beret and scarf - see pattern SmåDrops 23-12 --------------------------------------------------------- |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11518 patterns translated into English (UK/cm). 11518
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (15)
Caroline wrote:
How strange to publish a 'gloves pattern, when in one photo the child has her hands out of shot, and in the second her fingers are so curled you can't see the gloves properly. I have used your patterns in the past and have enjoyed them. When making such a complicated accessory, it would be helpful to see a close up.
05.02.2024 - 19:08Annie Rittig wrote:
De 3 masker der slåes op over tråden til tommelfinger ,skal de sidde i begyndelsen af 1 pind eller til slut i sidste pind? Har det betydning for hvor masker til lillefinger tælles fra??
27.12.2021 - 10:13DROPS Design answered:
Hei Annie. Disse 3 maskene legges "over" de maskene du har satt på tråd. Siden du avsluttet omgangen, satte tommelmaskene på og så legges det opp 3 nye masker blir dette begynnelsen av omgangen. mvh DROPS Design
04.01.2022 - 13:26Sadie wrote:
Tussen de vingers ontstaan gaten door de extra opgezette steken. Hoe maak je die weer dicht?
22.08.2021 - 20:54Masome wrote:
Hello You said:Continue in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec 2 sts evenly = 38-42-46 sts.I couldn't understand where I should Dec 2sts?
30.01.2021 - 07:32DROPS Design answered:
Hi Masome, how to increase stitches evenly you will find HERE. Happy knitting!
30.01.2021 - 19:23Masome wrote:
Excuse me I couldn't understand how much yarn need just for gloves?50g purple?
06.01.2021 - 15:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Masome, to work the gloves, you need 1 ball 50 g DROPS BabyMerino + if you like to make the flower, you need 1 ball (or leftover) in 2 other colours + 1 spoon DROPS Glitter to add a glitter effect to the flower. Happy knitting!
06.01.2021 - 15:49Solange wrote:
Bonjour, J'ai voulu tricoter la taille 6/9 pour un enfant de 7 ans assez mince. Mon échantillon tel que décrit ci-dessus (aiguilles 2.5) donne pour moi : 11cm/8cm ! j'ai tout de même essayé. la main ça passe mais le petit doigt, lui qui a les doigts fins, ne passe pas. Alors je me suis demandé si j'aurais dû prendre les aiguilles 3 ??? Merci
03.11.2018 - 23:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Solange, vous devez avoir 10 cm pour 26 m, si vous avez trop de mailles pour 10 cm, il vous faudra essayer à nouveau avec des aiguilles plus grosses, donc effectivement, essayez votre échantillon à nouveau avec des aiguilles 3. Bon tricot!
05.11.2018 - 09:19Natt wrote:
Bonsoir peut-On réaliser ce modèle aux aiguilles circulaires ?
04.11.2016 - 22:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Natt, tout à fait, mais comme il y aura peu de mailles, la méthode dite magic loop est conseillée. Bon tricot!
07.11.2016 - 08:49Moni wrote:
Die "Gesamtlänge" vor der Stilllegung der Daumen-Maschen ist leider vollkommen daneben! Vor allem ist auch nicht klar, was mit der Gesamtlänge gemeint ist: Ab Bündchen oder inkl.? (Schließlich wurde ja auch schon davor bereits von 1 cm ab Bündchen gesprochen!) Ich habe mich daher Reihe um Reihe vorgetastet und habe gleich die Hand meiner Tochter als Maß genommen! Für den 2. Handschuh gehe ich immer per Reihen (und nicht cm) vor, ... so wird´s am genausten.
03.11.2016 - 17:04DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Moni, die Gesamtlänge wird von Anschlagskante gemessen.
04.11.2016 - 09:41Emmanuelle wrote:
Bonjour, Je réalise ces gants et j'ai une petite question. La première maille du rang est-elle toujours la même ? A savoir, quand je sépare la paume et le dos de la main, les 14 premières mailles (paume main droite) commencent bien 1 mailles avant le pouce ? Ou doit-on partir du milieu de la barre au dessus du pouce ? j'espère être claire... Merci d'avance
03.06.2015 - 11:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Emmanuelle, quand on met les mailles du pouce en attente, on met la 2ème m du tour (avec le marqueur) + les mailles augmentées + 1 m de chaque côté (la 1ère m du tour) - et on monte 3 m au-dessus des m en attente = la 1ère de ces 3 m sera la m du début du tour. Bon tricot!
03.06.2015 - 14:18CLAIRAND Fabienne wrote:
Bonjour pouvez vous me dire si on utilise 3 ou 4 aiguilles doubles pointes pour les gants d avance merci cordialement Mme F. Clairand
17.12.2014 - 06:30DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Clairand, vous pouvez tricoter, au choix, soit avec les mailles sur 4 doubles pointes et tricoter avec la 5e - soit répartir les mailles sur 3 doubles pointes et tricoter avec la 4e, choisissez la méthode avec laquelle vous êtes le plus à l'aise (plus d'aiguilles = moins de mailles sur chaque aiguille). Bon tricot!
17.12.2014 - 08:58