DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
Product image DROPS Fabel yarn
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Socks & Slippers
  4. Socks
  5. DROPS
  6. 209
  7. 24

Horizon Trekkers

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked at an angle and with stripes, from the toe upwards. Sizes 35 – 43.

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DROPS 209-24

#horizontrekkerssocks

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-455
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg length to beginning of heel: 16 - 18 - 20 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 340, blue lagoon
50-50-50 g colour 100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 cm, 60 cm or 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Product image DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. The yarn over is worked twisted on the next next row to avoid holes!

STRIPES:
The piece is worked in stripes as follows:
Work 6 rounds with off-white.
Work 2 rounds with blue lagoon.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and cast off the yarn overs as normal stitches.

HEEL: 
Work stocking stitch back and forth with off-white as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip the first stitch as if to purl, tighten the strand and work until there is 1 stitch left, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip the first stitch as if to knit, tighten the strand and work until there are 2 stitches left, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip the first stitch as if to purl, tighten the strand and work until there are 2 stitches left, turn. 
Continue to turn in the same way until there are 14 stitches left in the middle of the row. Continue back and forth but now work 1 more stitch on each row (i.e. both from right and wrong side) over the heel. To avoid a hole when turning, lift the horizontal strand before the stitch to be worked and place it twisted on the needle. Work this strand together with the next stitch on the left needle (from the right side the strand and stitch are knitted together, from the wrong side they are purled together). Work like this until you have worked over all stitches on the needle. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from the toe upwards. It is first worked with circular needle back and forth at an angle with short rows, before continuing in the round with double pointed needles. The heel is worked back and forth with short rows. The leg is worked in the round with double pointed needles.

RIGHT SOCK:
Cast on 48-52-56 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and blue lagoon.
ROW 1: (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, purl 23-25-27, insert 1 marker (between the stitches), purl 23-25-27 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now increase stitches on each side of the marker.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over – read INCREASE TIP (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 50-54-58 stitches on the needle).
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 52-56-60 stitches on the needle).
ROW 5 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 6 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 54-58-62 stitches on the needle).
ROW 7 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 8 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 9 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 10 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the needle, turn.
ROW 11 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 12 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn.
ROW 13 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 14 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 15 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge in garter stitch.
Change to off white.
ROW 16 (= right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left, turn.
ROW 17 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 18 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 19 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 20 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 21 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 22 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 23 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 24 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 25 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 26 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn.
ROW 27 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 28 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 29 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to blue lagoon.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time.
Change to off-white.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time.
Change to blue lagoon.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time but on the last 2 rows cast off the first edge stitch on each side of the piece = 52-56-60 stitches.
Now displace the round by slipping the first 39-42-45 stitches from the right side onto the right needle. Beginning of the round = mid under foot.
Cut the strands.
Then put the piece together and continue in the round with double pointed needles.
Work STRIPES in stocking stitch – read description above.
When the piece measures 17-18½-21 cm, see Fig.1 (when measuring, lay the piece flat with the cast-on edge at the side and measure along the middle from the point/toe).
Now divide the piece for the heel; adjust so the last row was worked with off-white.
Leave the middle 22 stitches on the top of the foot on the needle (i.e. 11 stitches on needles 2 and 3). Divide the remaining 30-34-38 stitches between needles 1 and 4 with 15-17-19 stitches on each needle. Work HEEL – read description above (the heel is worked in stocking stitch).
When the heel is finished, continue with stripes and stocking stitch – NOTE: To avoid a hole in the corner of the heel when the first round after the heel is worked, lift up the horizontal strand before the next stitch on the left needle to be worked and place it twisted back on the needle. Work the strand together with the next stitch on the left needle.
When the piece measures 4 cm from the heel, increase 2 stitches evenly spaced = 54-58-62 stitches.
Repeat the increase when the piece measures 8 cm from the heel = 56-60-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 12-14-16 cm from the heel (adjust so the next round is worked with off-white) increase 4 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-68 stitches.
Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) with off-white for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the cast-on edge and sew together; sew using off-white as far as the point where the piece was put together and continued in the round.

LEFT SOCK:
Work as for the right sock but when the beginning of the round is displaced to mid under foot, slip the first 13-14-15 stitches from the right side onto the right needle.

Diagram

point/toe, measure from here = point/toe, measure from here
the heel starts here, measure to this point = the heel starts here, measure to this point
Diagram for DROPS 209-24
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #horizontrekkerssocks or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Cande wrote:

Bonjour avoir coupé le fil de la pointe peut-on continuer avec une aiguille circulaire plutôt que 4 aiguilles double pointe? mille mercis pour votre réponse 6

08.12.2023 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cande, tout à fait, mais il vous faudra alors utiliser la technique du magic loop. Bon tricot!

11.12.2023 - 07:22

country flag Laura Stel wrote:

Ik ben hieraan begonnen en begrijp eigenlijk niet waarom ik zoveel toeren moet breien voordat ik het rond kan gaan breien. Kunt u dit uitleggen?

23.02.2023 - 16:30

country flag YOLANDE wrote:

COMMENT SE FAIT-IL QUE QUAND J'IMPRIME UN PATRON DE TRICOT, JE RETROUVE EN BAS DE PAGE LES DEUX DERNIERES LIGNE EN IMPRESSION SUR LES DEUX LIGNE DU BAS ANNONCANT L'UTILISATION DE COOKIES. JE NE VOIS JAMAIS BIEN LES DIRECTIVES DU MODELE DEMANDER. MERCI BEAUCOUP A L'AVANCE POUR LE RENSEIGNEMENT.

25.07.2020 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Yolande, utilisez-vous bien le bouton "Imprimer" pour lancer l'impression des explications? Pensez ensuite à bien vérifier les paramètres de votre imprimante, mais en procédant ainsi, vous devriez être en mesure de pouvoir imprimer l'intégralité des explications. Bon tricot!

29.07.2020 - 10:00

country flag Bärbel wrote:

Tolle Socken , wäre schön , wenn es so was auch ab Bund , Schaft , Ferse , Spitze , gestrickt geben würde liebe Grüsse

13.05.2020 - 15:15

country flag Davina wrote:

I’m stuck - what does it mean to move stitches from the right side to right needle? Also how does moving the stitches make it mid foot? And if I cut the yarn how do I continue knitting? Pls help!

20.03.2020 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Davina, move the stitches means that you slip the stitches of the right side of teh piece to the needle that is in your right hand. If you cut the yarn, you can make a slipknot, put it on the needle and knit together with the first stitch. Or simply just hold thightly against the knitted piece. it will be a bit loose at first, but you can thighten it up when you weave in teh ends. Happy Knitting!

22.03.2020 - 11:45

country flag Berta wrote:

¿Se traduciràn las instrucciones al Español?

03.03.2020 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Berta. Todos los patrones se traducen al español. Este en concreto se publicará antes del jueves.

03.03.2020 - 23:22

country flag Ute wrote:

Namensvorschlag: "Schräge Sache"

25.01.2020 - 09:17

country flag Carmen wrote:

Geniales, los tricoto seguro!!!

20.12.2019 - 10:03

country flag Reina Groen wrote:

Interesting short row pattern on the feet

10.12.2019 - 20:09

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Horizon Trekkers

#horizontrekkerssocks

Horizon Trekkers / DROPS 209-24 - Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked at an angle and with stripes, from the toe upwards. Sizes 35 – 43.
 Horizon Trekkers / DROPS 209-24 - Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked at an angle and with stripes, from the toe upwards. Sizes 35 – 43.

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked at an angle and with stripes, from the toe upwards. Sizes 35 – 43.

DROPS 209-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-455
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg length to beginning of heel: 16 - 18 - 20 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 340, blue lagoon
50-50-50 g colour 100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 40 cm, 60 cm or 80 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. The yarn over is worked twisted on the next next row to avoid holes!

STRIPES:
The piece is worked in stripes as follows:
Work 6 rounds with off-white.
Work 2 rounds with blue lagoon.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and cast off the yarn overs as normal stitches.

HEEL: 
Work stocking stitch back and forth with off-white as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until there is 1 stitch left on the row, turn. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip the first stitch as if to purl, tighten the strand and work until there is 1 stitch left, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip the first stitch as if to knit, tighten the strand and work until there are 2 stitches left, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip the first stitch as if to purl, tighten the strand and work until there are 2 stitches left, turn. 
Continue to turn in the same way until there are 14 stitches left in the middle of the row. Continue back and forth but now work 1 more stitch on each row (i.e. both from right and wrong side) over the heel. To avoid a hole when turning, lift the horizontal strand before the stitch to be worked and place it twisted on the needle. Work this strand together with the next stitch on the left needle (from the right side the strand and stitch are knitted together, from the wrong side they are purled together). Work like this until you have worked over all stitches on the needle. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from the toe upwards. It is first worked with circular needle back and forth at an angle with short rows, before continuing in the round with double pointed needles. The heel is worked back and forth with short rows. The leg is worked in the round with double pointed needles.

RIGHT SOCK:
Cast on 48-52-56 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side of the piece) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and blue lagoon.
ROW 1: (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, purl 23-25-27, insert 1 marker (between the stitches), purl 23-25-27 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now increase stitches on each side of the marker.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over – read INCREASE TIP (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 50-54-58 stitches on the needle).
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 52-56-60 stitches on the needle).
ROW 5 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 6 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (= marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn (= a total of 54-58-62 stitches on the needle).
ROW 7 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 8 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 9 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 10 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the needle, turn.
ROW 11 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 12 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn.
ROW 13 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 14 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 15 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge in garter stitch.
Change to off white.
ROW 16 (= right side): Knit until there are 2 stitches left, turn.
ROW 17 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 2 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 18 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 19 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 5-7-9 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 20 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 21 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 10-12-14 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 22 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 23 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 15-17-19 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 24 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 25 (= wrong side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, purl until there are 20-22-24 stitches left on the row, turn.
ROW 26 (= right side): Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, turn.
ROW 27 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 28 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 29 (= wrong side): Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to blue lagoon.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time.
Change to off-white.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time.
Change to blue lagoon.
Work rows 16 to 29 one more time but on the last 2 rows cast off the first edge stitch on each side of the piece = 52-56-60 stitches.
Now displace the round by slipping the first 39-42-45 stitches from the right side onto the right needle. Beginning of the round = mid under foot.
Cut the strands.
Then put the piece together and continue in the round with double pointed needles.
Work STRIPES in stocking stitch – read description above.
When the piece measures 17-18½-21 cm, see Fig.1 (when measuring, lay the piece flat with the cast-on edge at the side and measure along the middle from the point/toe).
Now divide the piece for the heel; adjust so the last row was worked with off-white.
Leave the middle 22 stitches on the top of the foot on the needle (i.e. 11 stitches on needles 2 and 3). Divide the remaining 30-34-38 stitches between needles 1 and 4 with 15-17-19 stitches on each needle. Work HEEL – read description above (the heel is worked in stocking stitch).
When the heel is finished, continue with stripes and stocking stitch – NOTE: To avoid a hole in the corner of the heel when the first round after the heel is worked, lift up the horizontal strand before the next stitch on the left needle to be worked and place it twisted back on the needle. Work the strand together with the next stitch on the left needle.
When the piece measures 4 cm from the heel, increase 2 stitches evenly spaced = 54-58-62 stitches.
Repeat the increase when the piece measures 8 cm from the heel = 56-60-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 12-14-16 cm from the heel (adjust so the next round is worked with off-white) increase 4 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-68 stitches.
Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) with off-white for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the cast-on edge and sew together; sew using off-white as far as the point where the piece was put together and continued in the round.

LEFT SOCK:
Work as for the right sock but when the beginning of the round is displaced to mid under foot, slip the first 13-14-15 stitches from the right side onto the right needle.

Diagram explanations
point/toe, measure from here = point/toe, measure from here
the heel starts here, measure to this point = the heel starts here, measure to this point
Diagram for DROPS 209-24

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