Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= K from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 1st and 2nd st as if to K tog, K1, pass 2nd and 3rd st on right needle over first st on same needle = 1 st left |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sunset Lace |
||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in 2 threads ”Alpaca”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 118-7 |
||||||||||||||||
-------------------------------------------------------- GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 (= 13 sts), M.2 (= 11 sts) and M.3 (= 11 sts). Diagrams show the pattern from RS. DECREASING TIP: Dec 1 st inside 3 garter sts each side from RS as follows: After 3 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, P1, psso. Before 3 garter sts: P2 tog. INCREASING TIP: Inc with 1 YO inside 3 garter sts each side. On next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. MEASUREMENT TIP: The lace pattern will make the garment seem shorter than measurements in chart. Steam iron lightly to stretch garment to the right size. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th front band st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures: Size S: 18, 25 and 32 cm Size M: 19, 26 and 33 cm Size L: 20, 27 and 34 cm Size XL: 21, 28 and 35 cm Size XXL: 20, 28 and 36 cm Size XXXL: 21, 29 and 37 cm -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 86-92-100-108-120-130 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K 2 rows and continue in PATTERN – see above - on next row from RS as follows: 16-19-22-25-30-34 GARTER STS – see above, M.1 (= 13 sts), 28-28-30-32-34-36 garter sts, M.1, finish with 16-19-22-25-30-34 garter sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 82-88-96-104-116-126 sts on needle. Work next row from RS as follows: 16-19-22-25-30-34 garter sts, M.2 (= 11 sts), 28-28-30-32-34-36 garter sts, M.2, finish with 16-19-22-25-30-34 garter sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next row from RS as follows: 3 garter sts, P 13-16-19-22-27-31 sts, M.3 (= 11 sts), P 28-28-30-32-34-36 sts, M.3, P 13-16-19-22-27-31 sts, 3 garter sts (3 garter sts each side worked in garter st to armhole. P sts = reverse stocking st. i.e. P from RS, K from WS). AT THE SAME TIME shift the pattern from both sides towards the middle by inc and dec sts on next row from RS as follows (beg on 3rd row in M.3): 3 garter sts, P sts until 2 sts remain before M.3, 1 YO, P2, M.3, P2, P2 tog, P sts until 4 sts remain before M.3, P2 tog, P2, M.3, P2, 1 YO, P sts until 3 sts remain, finish with 3 garter sts ( K YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING: Continue in M.3 and repeat the shift towards the middle on every 4th row from RS a total of 10 times (= 8-8-10-12-14-16 sts left between M.3). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm dec 1 st each side – see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 2 cm a total of 7 times = 68-74-82-90-102-112 sts. When piece measures 25 cm inc 1 st inside 3 garter sts each side – see INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc on every 4-3-3-3-4-4 cm a total of 3-4-4-4-4-4 times = 74-82-90-98-110-120 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 32 cm – see MEASUREMENT TIP – shift the pattern from the middle towards the sides by dec and inc sts on next row from RS as follows: 3 garter sts, P sts until 4 sts remain before M.3, P2 tog, P2, M.3, P2, 1 YO, P sts until 2 sts remain before M.3, 1 YO, P2, M.3, P2, P2 tog, P sts until 3 sts remain, finish with 3 garter sts. Repeat the shift towards the sides on every 4-4-4-4-6-6 row a total of 12-12-13-13-12-12 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armhole each side at beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-3-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-2-1-2-3-3 times = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-24-26 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 24 sts left on shoulder for all sizes. Cast off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm – adjust to a full repeat of M.3. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-53-57-61-67-72 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K 2 rows and work next row from RS as follows: 30-33-37-41-47-52 garter sts, M.1, 7 garter sts (7 garter sts = front band, worked in garter st throughout). After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 there are 48-51-55-59-65-70 sts on needle. Work next row from RS as follows: 30-33-37-41-47-52 garter sts, M.2, 7 garter sts. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next row from RS as follows: 3 garter sts, P 27-30-34-38-44-49 sts, M.3, 7 garter sts (3 garter sts at the side worked in garter st to armhole. P sts = reverse stocking st. i.e. P from RS, K from WS). When piece measures 6 cm dec at the side as described for back piece = 41-44-48-52-58-63 sts. When piece measures 25 cm inc at the side as described for back piece = 44-48-52-56-62-67 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm dec for neck on next row from RS as follows: work 3 garter sts, P sts until 4 sts remain before M.3, P2 tog, P2, M.3, 7 garter sts. Repeat dec on every 4th row a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec are complete there are 31 sts left on needle. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm – adjust to back piece – cast off 24 sts from shoulder towards neckline = 7 sts left on needle for collar. Work garter st back and forth on these 7 sts and cast off when collar measures 7-8-8-9-9-10 cm from shoulder. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored. NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above! SLEEVES: Worked in the round. Cast on 40-42-44-46-46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Work 10 rounds GARTER ST – see above! Insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 5-4-3.5-3-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 9-10-12-13-15-15 times = 58-62-68-72-76-78 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-47-46-44 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4-3 times, 1 st 0-1-0-1-4-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56-56-57-57-58-58 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew shoulder seams (lace pattern will not meet to match on shoulder). Set in sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew on buttons. |
||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (118)
Uta Große wrote:
Hallo, ist es richtig, das in M2 und M3 die letzte Reihe ( Rückreihe) links gestrickt wird.? Auf der Abbildung sieht es eher danach aus, daß sie rechts gestrickt ist. Vielen Dank
01.01.2024 - 13:40DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Große, es ist ja so richtig, dann wiederholen Sie das Diagram ab 1. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
02.01.2024 - 12:03Ruth Vanini wrote:
Grüezi Ich bin beim Rückenteil bei 58 cm angelangt und hab jetzt die mittleren 20 Maschen für den Hals abgenommen. Bis jetzt habe ich aber das Muster bloss 11x (statt 13x) verschieben können. Der Rapport M3 ist fertig. Soll ich jetzt abketten? Ich stricke die Grösse L. Vielen Dank für die Hilfe. Ruth
06.08.2023 - 12:23DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Vanini, wenn Sie jetzt abketten wird das Armloch vielleicht etwas zu eng sein (es wird Ihnen ein paar cm fehlen), am besten stricken Sie so weiter und enden Sie das Muster so schön wie möglich (um auch zu lange Armlöcher zu vermeiden). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
07.08.2023 - 10:26Marlen wrote:
Betreft patroon 118-7. Bij het achterpand moet je het patroon 1 1x verticaal herhalen, maar dan heb je al 2 steken minder, dus kom je 2 steken te kort om het te herhalen. Hoe is dan de verdeling van de ribbels en het patroon? Waar moet je minder steken hebben ? Vóór het middenstuk aan beide kanten of aan de 2 zijkanten vóór het patroontje? Graag hoor ik van u.
29.05.2023 - 20:09DROPS Design answered:
Dag Marlen,
De patroonherhalingen in de hoogte blijven boven elkaar zitten, dus je breit steeds het patroon precies boven het vorige patroon. De meerderingen en minderingen zitten naast het patroon, waardoor het patroon schuin gaat lopen. Zorg er dus voor dat de telpatronen precies boven elkaar worden gebreid en dat je verder de meerderingen en minderingen volgt zoals beschreven.
01.06.2023 - 13:10Annemarie wrote:
Hallo kann ich diese Jacke auch in Grösse 32 stricken oder haben sie andere Anleitungen für eine ähnliche Jacke in Grösse 32
28.01.2023 - 19:57DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Annemarie, lesen Sie mal hier, so wissen Sie, wie man die richtige Grösse wählt - gerne können Sie dann unsere Modellen je nach Grösse sortieren, hier sehen Sie z.B. alle unsere Jacken in XS. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.01.2023 - 09:07Michela wrote:
Ho notato che le maniche dei vostri lavori sono lunghe, anzi lunghissime. Per me che sono piccola di statura la misura giusta è di 35 cm da inizio polso a inizio scalfo. Di conseguenza devo fare gli aumenti ad intervalli più brevi. Questo mi causa un po' di fatica, avete un suggerimento che mi possa aiutare? Grazie mille. Vorrei dirvi che i vostri lavori sono tutti belli, alcuni di più, sono meravigliosi! Grazie e cordiali saluti. Michela
29.08.2022 - 15:22DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Michela, purtroppo non ci è possibile riadattare i modelli alle singole esigenze, ma può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia dove sicuramente l'assisteranno nel suo lavoro. Buon lavoro!
29.08.2022 - 23:30BAYARD wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas quand je commence le M3, ce que je dois faire EN MEME TEMPS.
21.04.2021 - 13:48DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bayard, à partir du 3ème rang de M.3 vous allez décaler le diagramme comme décrit dans le rang juste après, autrement dit, en augmentant avant le 1er M.3 (avant les 2 m env) et en diminuant après le 1er M.3 (après les 2 m env) et en diminuant avant le 2ème M.3 (avant les 2 m env) et en augmentant après le 2ème M.3 (après les 2 m env). Ce décalage va se faire 10 fois au total tous les 4 rangs, autrement dit, les 2 motifs M.3 du milieu dos vont se rapprocher, puis on les décalera pour les éloigner de nouveau l'un de l'autre (mais cette fois-là vous le ferez 12 à 13 fois tous les 4 à 6 rangs - cf taille). Bon tricot!
21.04.2021 - 15:26Inmaculada Santos wrote:
En el. cuarto símbolo,en la inclinación de la ralla es \ o es /, porqué el significado puede ser diferente.gracias por su trabajo,les sigo ,felicidades
31.01.2021 - 08:04DROPS Design answered:
Es lo mismo y significa derecho por el LD, derecho por el LR. Buen trabajo!
31.01.2021 - 09:16Inmaculada Santos wrote:
Hola,me parece que el diagrama no coincide con los símbolos expuestos en el patrón,me pueden ayudar gracias
30.01.2021 - 16:03DROPS Design answered:
Hola Inmaculada! Para mi esta bien. Donde (en que parte de los instrucciones) hay un problema?
30.01.2021 - 17:41Monica Piazza wrote:
Modello 118-7 continuare in M3 ripetere lo spostamento verso il centro ogni quarto f. non capisco ogni quanti ferri devo ripetere lo spostamento
20.05.2020 - 18:33DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Monica. Sposta il motivo ogni 4 ferri. Quindi,: ferro 1 sposta il motivo: ferri 2-4 lavora le maglie come impostate; ferro 5 sposta il motivo e così via. Buon lavoro!
20.05.2020 - 18:55Birgit wrote:
Beim Vorder-und Rückenteil ist die Jacke zum großen Teil links gestrickt. Sind die Ärmel von außen glatt rechts gestrickt?
23.02.2019 - 22:39DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Birgit, die Ärmel sollen glatt rechts gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
25.02.2019 - 09:48