DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide |
4.80 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide 4.80 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew b against B. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Climbing Rose Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted bottom up with stocking stitch and V-neck. Size XS – XXL.
DROPS 240-6 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. BUTTONHOLES (bottom up): Decrease for buttonholes on right band, starting from the right side as follows: Knit sixth and seventh stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row from the wrong side, purl yarn over to make hole. Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures: XS: 8, 16 and 24 cm S: 8, 16 and 25 cm M: 8, 17 and 26 cm L: 7, 14, 21 and 28 cm XL: 7, 14, 21 and 28 cm XXL: 7, 15, 23 and 30 cm DECREASE TIP (applies to V-neck): All decreases are done from the right side. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work 13 band stitches, knit 1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work until 16 stitches remain, knit 2 together, knit 1 and work 13 band stitches as before. DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Worked back and forth, bottom up and sewn together when finished. Pick up stitches around each armhole. First work the sleeves back and forth on circular needle and then in the round on double pointed needles / short circular needle. BACK PIECE: Cast on 80-88-92-100-108-120 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work back and forth in rib as follows: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 8 cm. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-14-14-16-18-22 stitches evenly = 68-74-78-84-90-98 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, cast off 2-3-4-6-7-9 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 64-68-70-72-76-80 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm, cast off the middle 12-14-14-16-16-16 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue as before and cast off stitches for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-23-24-24-26-28 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side and mid front: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 8 cm, AT THE SAME TIME decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Then work as follows from right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) over the next 12 stitches, knit the next 38-42-46-50-54-58 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 5-6-8-9-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch = 47-50-52-55-58-62 stitches. Continue with 1 stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) over the 12 band stitches, stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch in the side - remember BUTTONHOLES. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm begin decrease for V-neck. AT THE SAME TIME as decrease for V-neck, cast off for armholes, read the following section before continuing. V-NECK: Decrease for V-neck every 2 cm 10-11-11-12-12-12 times in total - read DECREASE TIP. ARMHOLES: At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, cast off 2-3-4-6-7-9 stitches for armhole at the beginning of next row from wrong side. After all decreases for V-neck and armhole, 35-36-37-37-39-41 stitches remain on needle. Continue with band stitches and stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch towards the side until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. On next row from wrong side cast off the first 22-23-24-24-26-28 stitches for shoulder and work over band as before for approx. 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm. Cast off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 52-56-60-64-68-72 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side and the side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 8 cm. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Then work as follows from right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit the next 38-42-46-50-54-58 stitches while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 5-6-8-9-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, work (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 12 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch = 47-50-52-55-58-62 stitches. Continue with 1 stitch in garter stitch, stocking stitch and (knit 2/purl 2) over the 12 band stitches, and 1 stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm begin decrease for V-neck. AT THE SAME TIME as decrease for V-neck, cast off for armholes, read the following section before continuing. V-NECK: Decrease for V-neck every 2 cm 10-11-11-12-12-12 times in total - read DECREASE TIP. ARMHOLES: At the same time when piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm, cast off 2-3-4-6-7-9 stitches for armhole at the beginning of next row from right side. After all decreases for V-neck and armhole, 35-36-37-37-39-41 stitches remain on needle. Continue with band stitches and stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch towards the side until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. On next row from right side cast off the first 22-23-24-24-26-28 stitches for shoulder and work over band as before for approx. 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm. Cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams to get a flat and nice seam. SLEEVES: Use circular needle size 6 mm and DROPS Melody. Pick up from right side 50-53-56-59-62-64 stitches - begin from the bottom of armhole. Insert 1 marker in the middle of row – measure sleeve from this marker. Work in stocking stitch back and forth until sleeve measures 1-1-2-4-5-6 cm from marker. Now put piece together on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 6 mm - work the rest of sleeve in the round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Move marker thread upwards when working. Begin round at the marker thread and work in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 4-3-3-1-1-1 cm, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-4½-4½-4-3½-3½ cm 7-8-8-9-10-10 times in total = 36-37-40-41-42-44 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 43 cm from marker. Knit 1 round while increasing 12-11-12-11-14-12 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 51 cm from marker. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew bottom of armholes - see chart. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch. Sew band together mid back and sew on to neckline at the back of neck. Sew the buttons onto the left front piece. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (22)
Heidi wrote:
Als ik geen knopen en knoopsgaten wil, kan ik dan de biezen gewoon breien zonder de minderingen? Of moet ik minder steken opzetten voor geen overslag te hebben?
16.06.2024 - 00:32DROPS Design answered:
Dag Heidi,
Er zit een overslag in verwerkt voor de knoopsluiting. Je zou minder steken op kunnen zetten, maar je kunt hem ook gewoon zo breien, dus zonder knoopsgaten te maken. Waarschijnlijk merk je bij het dragen nauwelijks verschil met de overslag.
16.06.2024 - 19:10Gunvor wrote:
Det skulle vara jättebra om ni kunde ange de färdiga måtten på kläderna. Åtminstone bystmått
24.04.2024 - 13:37Veerle wrote:
Beste, de panden worden van onder naar boven gebreid en de mouwen van boven naar onder? Dit geeft toch een ander beeld van het stekenpatroon ? Is dit de bedoeling ?Veerle
17.04.2024 - 14:45DROPS Design answered:
Dag Veerle,
Nee hoor, je kunt gewoon tricotsteek van boven naar onder breien, dat ziet er hetzelfde uit als wanneer je tricotsteek van onder naar boven breit.
17.04.2024 - 21:49Veerle wrote:
Beste, de panden worden van onder naar boven gebreid en de mouwen van boven naar onder? Dit geeft toch een ander beeld van het stekenpatroon ? Is dit de bedoeling ?\r\nVeerle
31.03.2024 - 16:50Kitter wrote:
DROPS Design answered: Hej, Du strikker masker op der fra hvor du lukkede masker af til ærmegab og strikker frem og tilbage de første 1-1-2-4-5-6 cm (alt efter hvilken størrelse du strikker) :) spørgsmål: Vil det så sige at de 6 masker jeg lukkede af til ærmegab skal være med i de masker jeg strikker op❓(undskyld at jeg åbenbart både skal have det skåret ud i pap og ind med skeer)
16.01.2024 - 15:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kitter, nej, de 6 masker du lukkede af til ærmegab, skal du ikke strikke op i, dem syr du de første cm af ærmet fast i bagefter :)
17.01.2024 - 13:12Kitter wrote:
Når jeg tager masker op til ærmer, skal jeg så tage op helt ude fra aflukningen til ærmegab, eller skal det være indenfor❓
15.01.2024 - 14:31DROPS Design answered:
Hej, Du strikker masker op der fra hvor du lukkede masker af til ærmegab og strikker frem og tilbage de første 1-1-2-4-5-6 cm (alt efter hvilken størrelse du strikker) :)
16.01.2024 - 14:27Marjorie wrote:
How do i convert patern from circular knitting needles to straight one's
02.09.2023 - 08:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marjorie, you can read here how to adapt a pattern for straight needles: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=13&cid=19. Happy knitting!
03.09.2023 - 20:15Catherine Randall wrote:
On the climbing rose cardigan, I have started the sleeves, I am at the point of knitting in a round, but am not sure if i need to purl or knit, I am on the wrong side? can you please help?
08.07.2023 - 19:44DROPS Design answered:
Dear Catherine, after joining the sleeves you will be working in the round, which is usually the right side unless otherwise stated. Since you work in stocking stitch you will knit all rounds. Happy knitting!
10.07.2023 - 17:05Catherine Randall wrote:
I am sorry but I do not understand on the climbing rose cardigan, to knit the sleeves it says pick up 56 stitches from the right side from the bottom of the armhole, I have lots more stitches than that? could u explain what I need to do please?
28.06.2023 - 15:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Randall, from the bottom of armhole through the seam until the bottom of armhole on the other side you should have 40 cm (size L), with a tension of 14 sts = 10 cm, you should have then 40 x 1,4 = 56 stitches along the armhole. In this video we show how to pick up stitches, it might help you. If you have some more stitches you can also decrease on first row (purling 2 stitches together evenly spaced). Happy knitting!
28.06.2023 - 16:29RIVET Danielle wrote:
Bonjour, Dans le modèle DROPS 240-6 Climbing rose cardigan , vous mentionnez "1 côte mousse = tricoter 2 rangs endroit" Je ne comprends pas bien, est-ce que cela veut dire qu'il faut toujours commencer et terminer les rangs par une maille endroit ?? Merci pour votre réponse
07.05.2023 - 15:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Rivet, pour tricoter au point mousse, il faut tricoter à l'endroit tous les rangs; lorsque vous tricotez 1 maille lisière au point mousse, vous tricotez cette maille à l'endroit tous les rangs (sur l'endroit et sur l'envers). Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter 1 m lisière au point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!
08.05.2023 - 08:12