DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g

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Outdoor Christmas

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 217-11

#outdoorchristmassweater

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-900
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 82, maroon
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 77, light oak

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 30) = 3.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting tension is too tight in height, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra round in the one-coloured sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be long and the armholes too big – you can correct this by regularly working one less round in the one-coloured sections.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
So the jumper is slightly higher at the back of the neck when working a round yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid-back). Start from the right side with maroon and knit 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 45-45-48-48-51-51 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 75-75-80-80-85-85 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 90-90-96-96-102-102 stitches back. Turn tighten the strand and knit to mid-back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and maroon. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm.
Knit 1 round where you increase 30-32-34-34-36-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 122-128-134-138-144-150 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted).
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (= mid-front), the yoke is measured from this marker!!
You can now work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-4-4-6-6-6 rounds with stocking stitch and maroon. Then work pattern AT THE SAME TIME as you increase stitches as described below.
Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 (when A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 in the same way).
On each round marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase as follows:
Arrow-1: Increase 24-28-32-36-40-44 stitches evenly spaced = 146-156-166-174-184-194 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 22-26-30-36-40-44 stitches evenly spaced = 168-182-196-210-224-238 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14-15-16-17 repeats of A.1 with 14 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 24-30-28-34-38-44 stitches evenly spaced = 192-212-224-244-262-282 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 24-28-28-32-38-42 stitches evenly spaced = 216-240-252-276-300-324 stitches (there is now room for 18-20-21-23-25-27 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 48-48-52-52-52-60 stitches evenly spaced = 264-288-304-328-352-384 stitches (there is now room for 33-36-38-41-44-48 repeats of A.2 with 8 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 24-24-32-44-44-48 stitches evenly spaced = 288-312-336-372-396-432 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-28-31-33-36 repeats of A.2 with 12 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-8-8-8-4 stitches evenly spaced = 296-320-344-380-404-436 stitches.
Finish working A.2.
When A.2 has been completed the piece measures approx. 21-22-22-27-27-27 cm from the marker on the neck. Continue with stocking stitch and maroon (in S and XL only continue if the piece measures less than the above measurement when A.2 is finished).
When the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from the marker on the neck, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows; Work 45-49-52-57-62-68 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-124-136 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 45-49-52-57-62-68 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 192-208-224-244-268-292 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round with maroon until the piece measures 28 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you increase 20-20-22-24-26-30 stitches evenly spaced = 212-228-246-268-294-322 stitches (this is done to avoid the rib being tight).
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-68-76-84-88-92 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with maroon.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-10-13-16-17-18 times = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-32-30 cm from the division. There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-39-38-36 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

	= maroon
	= light oak
	= increase-round

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 7 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #outdoorchristmassweater or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Outdoor Christmas

SoftStop, Sweden

Outdoor Christmas

Kasia, Poland

Outdoor Christmas

mint_knit_

Outdoor Christmas

Suzanne, United States

Outdoor Christmas

Annette, United Kingdom

Outdoor Christmas

Ildikó, Germany

Outdoor Christmas

Julia, Sweden

Outdoor Christmas

SoftStop, Sweden

Outdoor Christmas

Kasia, Poland

Outdoor Christmas

mint_knit_

Outdoor Christmas

Suzanne, United States

Outdoor Christmas

Annette, United Kingdom

Outdoor Christmas

Ildikó, Germany

Outdoor Christmas

Julia, Sweden

Comments / Questions (19)

Wiktoria wrote:

Hej! Jag är nybörjare inom stickning och det här är mitt första projekt. Det verkar som att jag gör ett fel och förstår inte vad det är. Jag har följt instruktionerna väldigt exakt men oket på tröjan hamnar väldigt långt upp. Istället för att lägga sig runt halsen som en normal tröja gör, täcker den hela min hals och når min käke. Det ser riktigt konstigt ut. Jag förstår verkligen inte vad jag gör för fel och uppskattar om någon hjälper mig.

05.04.2024 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Wiktoria, Stickar du i DROPS Karisma? Har du 20 m på 10 cm i bredden och 26 varv på 10 cm i höjden? Det är viktigt för att få rätt storlek. Titta på den här, det är en komplett beskrivning i samma garn och samma typ av modell (ja annat mönster och storlek): Christmas KAL I DROPS Karisma

09.04.2024 - 10:01

Pauline Kern wrote:

I love your patterns and yarns....I just finished knitting this is brown mix and light oak....your patterns are explained thoroughly and very easy to understand!! THANK YOU

30.03.2024 - 14:02

Franziska wrote:

Hallo! Könnte man diesen Pullover auch in Double-Face stricken? Wahrscheinlich würde sich der Garnverbrauch erhöhen, aber würden die Maße noch passen? Ich hab etwas Probleme, das Muster glatt zu halten und wollte es gern mal so ausprobieren :)

19.02.2024 - 10:39

Liebe Franziska, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann könnten Sie wahrscheinlich auch in Double-Face stricken, aber, wie Sie es schreiben, brauchen Sie mehr Wolle; beachten Sie, daß die Textur aber etwas dicker sein wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2024 - 15:19

Cathi Jennings wrote:

Do the yoke stitch counts in this pattern include the extra stitches added with the back of neck elevation?

10.12.2023 - 19:06

Dear Cathi, when you do the neck elevation you are not adding stitches, to what is already on the needles. You are turning mid row, and knit, but not adding stitches here. Happy Knitting!

10.12.2023 - 21:34

Anja Gutgesell wrote:

Hallo, liebes Drops-Team, kann ich den Pullover nachträglich verlängern (Ärmel und Saum), und wieviel Wolle bräuchte ich bei Grösse M? Danke im Voraus!

31.05.2023 - 12:42

Liebe Frau Gutgesell, ja sicher können Sie den Pullover verlängern, aber die Garnmenge hängt von der Verlängerungen ab - lassen Sie sich bei einem Modell mit der gewünschten Länge inspirieren, gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Händler (auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail) weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.05.2023 - 16:32

Dessiaume wrote:

Bonjour, est-il possible d\'avoir un tableau des tailles femme, s\'il vous plaît ?

14.04.2023 - 16:27

Bonjour Mme Dessiaume, nous n'avons pas de tel tableau car nos modèles remontent aux années 80 et les normes ont changé. Pour trouver votre taille, mesurez un vêtement que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

17.04.2023 - 08:39

Gitte Marvig wrote:

Når jeg laver mønsteret på bærestykket buler/bølger det. Især der hvor udtagningerne er. Er det rigtigt

10.11.2022 - 09:51

Hej Gitte, Strikker du i DROPS Karisma? Sørg for at du ikke strikker mønsteret for stramt, hvis mønstertråden strammer bagpå vil det bule...

11.11.2022 - 13:46

Catherine Hellin wrote:

Je tricote en rond et jacquard le pull drops outdoor chrismas 217/11 malheureusement il y a toujours un décalage au niveau du dessin à chaque tour pas moyen de le faire aligner pouvez vous m'aider ?

16.12.2021 - 17:53

Bonjour Mme Hellin, nous n'avons pas d'autres astuces particulières que la technique des rayures (pas toujours applicable), peut-être que votre magasin aura une astuce à vous partager, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail ou téléphone, ou bien demandez conseil à d'autres tricoteuses du monde entier via notre DROPS Workshop. Bon tricot!

17.12.2021 - 08:42

Petra wrote:

Ik had voor maat XL niet genoeg aan 100 gram om in te breien.

13.11.2021 - 14:55

Tiina wrote:

Puseron yläosan levennysten ja kuvioneuleen onnistuessa, tuleeko hartioiden seudulla neuleesta piirroskuvan mallinen? Omassani olat luisuvat suht voimakkaasti alaviistoon (kuitenkin päällä ihan ok). Tarkoittaako se että kuvioneuleeni on liian tiukkaa ja vetää neuletta kasaan?

28.09.2021 - 21:40

Hei, kuvion tulisi näyttää tasaiselta työn oikealta puolelta katsottuna. Työn takaosan lankajuoksujen tulee joustaa hieman. Mikäli kuviosta tulee liian tiukka, voit vaihtaa paksumpiin puikkoihin kuvioneuleen kohdalla.

21.10.2021 - 17:42

	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool	2.30 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool	2.30 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool 2.30 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool 2.30 £ /50g Order

Outdoor Christmas

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

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Outdoor Christmas

Knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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