DROPS / 217 / 18

Love Links Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.

  • Love Links Jacket / DROPS 217-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.
  • Love Links Jacket / DROPS 217-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.
  • Love Links Jacket / DROPS 217-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.
  • Love Links Jacket / DROPS 217-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.
  • Love Links Jacket / DROPS 217-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size XS–XXL.
DROPS design: Pattern me-205
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 42, cedar
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS Oak NO 503: 8-8-8-9-9-9 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
If the knitting tension is too tight vertically, the garment will be too short and the armhole will be too small - this can be adjusted by working 1 row more evenly in the sections with one colour.
If the knitting tension is too loose vertically, the garment will be too long and the armhole too big, this can be adjusted by working 1 row less in the sections with one colour.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are done from the right side.
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 104 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining 102 stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 27) = 3.8.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2, A.3 and A.4). Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (stitch with marker), knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. Place bottom buttonhole approx. 2 cm from bottom edge and place top buttonhole in transition between neck edge and yoke. Adjust placement to decrease in purl sections (seen from right side).
1 BUTTONHOLE = purl 2 together, then make 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work double neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. When neck edge is done, cast off band stitches, and continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work bands at the end.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 116-120-124-132-136-144 stitches (including 6 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with cedar. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 9 cm. When rib has been finished, work next row as follows from right side: Cast off the first 6 stitches (= band), knit over the next 104-108-112-120-124-132 stitches and increase at the same time 27-31-35-35-39-47 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, then work rib as before over the remaining 6 stitches. Turn piece, cast off the first 6 stitches (= band) and purl the rest of row (purl yarn over twisted) = 131-139-147-155-163-179 stitches on row including 1 edge stitch in each side.
Insert 1 marker inside edge stitch mid front. Work yoke as explained below, measure yoke from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Read all of the following section on yoke before working and read KNITTING TIP! Work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain on row (= 32-34-36-38-40-44 repetitions of 4 stitches), work first stitch in A.1 so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side towards mid front, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front (work edge stitches with the colour cedar).
When A.1 has been worked vertically, work A.2 the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP:

Arrow-1: Increase 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches evenly = 163-171-179-187-203-219 stitches (there is now room for 20-21-22-23-25-27 repetitions A.1 of 8 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 32-40-40-40-40-48 stitches evenly = 195-211-219-227-243-267 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27-28-30-33 repetitions A.1 of 8 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-32-40-48-48-40 stitches evenly = 227-243-259-275-291-307 stitches (there is now room for 14-15-16-17-18-19 repetitions A.1 of 16 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 32-32-32-32-40-48 stitches evenly = 259-275-291-307-331-355 stitches (there is now room for 32-34-36-38-41-44 repetitions A.2 of 8 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 32-32-32-24-32-32 stitches evenly = 291-307-323-331-363-387 stitches (there is now room for 36-38-40-41-45-48 repetitions A.2 of 8 stitches). Increases in size XS, S and M are now done.
Arrow-6: Increase 24-24-32 stitches evenly (only applies to sizes L, XL and XXL) = 291-307-323-355-387-419 stitches (there is now room for 22-24-26 repetitions A.1 of 16 stitches in the 3 largest sizes).
The increases in size L, XL and XXL are done.
Then work until last row in A.2 remains in your size. Piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from marker mid front.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next row as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches in stocking stitch as shown in last row in A.2 (= front piece), slip the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 81-89-93-101-113-129 stitches as shown in last row in A.2 (= back piece), slip the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches as shown in A.2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= front piece).
Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 179-195-211-227-259-291 stitches. Work first row as follows from wrong side:

XS, S, L and XL:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work first stitch in A.3 (seen from right side), work A.3 until 1 stitch remains on row (= 22-24-14-16 repetitions of 8-8-16-16 stitches), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. NOTE! Read diagram from left to right when working from wrong side. Continue pattern back and forth so that pattern border from yoke is finished.
When A.3 has been worked vertically, work next row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work first stitch in A.4 (seen from right side), work A.4 until 1 stitch remains on row (= 11-12-14-16 repetitions of 16 stitches), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Then work as explained below ALL SIZES.

M and XXL:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work first stitch in A.4 (seen from right side), work A.4 until 1 stitch remains on row (= 13-18 repetitions of 16 stitches), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. NOTE! Read diagram from left to right when working from wrong side. Then work as explained below ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
Continue A.4 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Repeat A.4 vertically as far as you can before rib begins at the bottom of body. AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow in A.4 increase 16 stitches evenly in all sizes = 195-211-227-243-275-307 stitches (this increase is only done first time A.4 is worked vertically, and there is now room for 12-13-14-15-17-19 repetitions A.4 of 16 stitches).
Work until piece measures approx. 31 cm from division in all sizes – finish pattern nicely after a whole pattern border.
Approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work until desired length.
Knit 1 row from right side with cedar while increasing 57-61-65-73-81-93 stitches evenly = 252-272-292-316-356-400 stitches. NOTE! Increase stitches to avoid the rib from contracting when working the piece together.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work first row from wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm.
Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST OFF TIP!
Jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-72-80-88-96-96 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches cast on under sleeve, i.e. insert marker in first stitch after the middle, count 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch (= middle stitch). 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches remain on round after last marker. Move markers upwards when working. Marker mid under sleeve is used later when decreasing stitches under sleeve and marker mid on top of sleeve should be used to count where to begin pattern.
Work last round in A.2 to finish A.2 the same way as on body - make sure that pattern fits over stitches from yoke. Read the rest of sleeve before continuing!

XS, S, L and XL:
Work A.3 in the round to finish repetition from yoke vertically but adjust to continue pattern nicely over stitches from yoke.
When A.3 has been worked, work A.4 in the round the same way - count outwards from the middle so that middle stitch in A.4 fit with stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve. Repeat A.4 vertically. Then work as explained below ALL SIZES.

M and XXL:
When last round in A.2 has been worked, work A.4 in the round - count outwards from the middle so that middle stitch in A.4 fit with stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve. Repeat A.4 vertically. Then work as explained below ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 14-12-16-18-20-20 times in total = 44-48-48-52-56-56 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-36-35-33 cm from division – finish pattern nicely after a whole pattern border. Approx. 4 cm remains until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round with cedar while increasing 4 stitches evenly in all sizes = 48-52-52-56-60-60 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-40-39-37 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Pick up stitches along left front piece on circular needle size 3 mm with cedar, i.e. begin straight below neck edge and pick up inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Pick up approx. 120-124-128-136-140-144 stitches (equals approx. 25 stitches per 10 cm along the edge - number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 2½ to 3 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work band the same way along right front piece but begin at the bottom of front piece and continue up to neck edge. When band measures approx. 1 to 1½ cm, decrease for 8-8-8-9-9-9 BUTTONHOLES evenly – read explanation above. Then continue band until it measure the same as left band. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew band to neck edge inside 1 edge stitch with seam in towards wrong side of garment.
Fold rib at the top of neck double in towards wrong side of garment. Fasten rib but to avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic. Sew together opening mid front with small stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = cedar
symbols = off white
symbols = increase row
symbols = middle stitch on sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Evelin Goldmann 08.02.2021 - 15:13:

Habe dieses Muster gestrickt. Es sieht einfach traumhaft aus. Bei einer Jacke haut es leider nicht immer mit den Reihen in einer Farbe hin, dass diese Farbe wieder aufgenommen werden kann. Man müsste hier abschneiden und den Faden wieder neu beginnen. Aber man kann ja improvisieren.

country flag Cindy 12.01.2021 - 14:28:

Kann man diese Jacke auch in Runden mit einem steek stricken? Wenn ja was muss ich beachten? Vielen Dank!

user icon DROPS Design 12.01.2021 kl. 16:06:

Liebe Cindy, ja wahrscheinlich können Sie nach dem Bündchen/Hals mit Steek stricken - dieses Video kann Ihnen sicher mithelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Maria Estrella 17.06.2020 - 19:33:

Spain Preciosa! Me encanta!

country flag Claudia Dominguez 05.06.2020 - 13:21:

Absolutely love it

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-18

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.