DROPS / 218 / 32

Enchanted Underwood by DROPS Design

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with cables and relief stitches. Sizes XS - XXL.

  • Enchanted Underwood / DROPS 218-32 - Crocheted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with cables and relief stitches. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Enchanted Underwood / DROPS 218-32 - Crocheted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with cables and relief stitches. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • Enchanted Underwood / DROPS 218-32 - Crocheted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with cables and relief stitches. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-294
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-126-138 cm = 36 1/4”-38 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm = 21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color 02, wheat

CROCHET GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 8.5 rows in height (with alternate rows of single crochets and treble crochets) = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single crochet/treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, work 4 chain stitches; these chain stitches do not replace the first treble crochet.
At the beginning of each row/round of single crochets work 1 chain stitch; this chain stitch does not replace the first single crochet.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Find your size in the diagrams (applies to A.3, A.4, A.6, A.8 and A.9).

INCREASE TIP (for armholes):
Increase 2 stitches by working 3 stitches in one stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the piece by working together the first 2 stitches on the row and the last 2 stitches on the row as follows:
Work 1 single crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through (= 2 loops on the hook), work 1 single crochet in the next stitch; on the last yarn over pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down and back and forth in sections, which are crocheted or sewn together to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Work 15-15-17-17-19-21 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and Air. Turn and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch – read CROCHET INFORMATION = 15-15-17-17-19-21 treble crochets. Then work a row with 1 single crochet in each treble crochet.
Now work pattern (start on the row with an arrow which corresponds to your size in the diagrams) from the right side as follows:
Work A.1 over the first 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches, A.2 over the next 4 stitches, A.3 over the next 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches. When the row with the arrow is finished, cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
Right shoulder:
Work 15-15-17-17-19-21 chain stitches, with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and Air. Turn and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch = 15-15-17-17-19-21 treble crochets. Then work a row with 1 single crochet in each treble crochet.
Now work pattern (start on the row with an arrow which corresponds to your size in the diagrams) from the right side as follows: Work A.4 over the first 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, A.5 over the next 4 stitches, A.1 over the last 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches. When the row with the arrow is finished, work the next row in the diagrams (= 1 stitch increased towards the neck), then work 20-20-20-24-24-24 loose chain stitches (= neck) and continue the same row over the left shoulder as follows: Work A.3 over the first 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches (= 1 stitch increased towards the neck), A.2 over the next 4 stitches, A.1 over the last 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches = 52-52-56-60-64-68 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Continue the next 2 rows in the pattern and, over the new stitches on the neck, work 1 treble crochet in each stitch from the right side and 1 single crochet in each stitch from the wrong side.
Now work pattern as follows: Work as before over the first 22-22-24-26-28-30 stitches, A.2 over the next 4 stitches and A.5 over the next 4 stitches (make sure you work the same row in the diagrams on each side of the back piece), work as before over the last 22-22-24-26-28-30 stitches. When A.3 and A.4 have been finished in height, work pattern as follows: Work as before over the first 5-5-7-5-7-9 stitches, A.6 over the next 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches, work A.2 and A.5 as before, A.6 over the next 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches and work as before over the last 5-5-7-5-7-9 stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth. Repeat the diagrams from the row with the arrow.
When the piece measures 17-16-17-18-19-19 cm = 6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-7 1/2”, increase 2 stitches on each side of the piece for the armholes – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this on each row 2-3-3-3-3-4 times on both sides = 60-64-68-72-76-84 stitches. At the end of the next 2 rows work 3-4-5-6-7-7 loose chain stitches for the armholes = 66-72-78-84-90-98 stitches. The new stitches are worked with A.1.
Continue back and forth until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2” measured from the shoulder – adjust so you finish after the row with the arrow in A.6 or after the next to last row in the diagram.
Now work an edge as follows: Work 1 row with 1 single crochet in each stitch and increase 1 stitch on the row by working 2 single crochets in one stitch = 67-73-79-85-91-99 stitches. Work from the row with the arrow in A.7 until there is 1 stitch left, work the first stitch in A.7. Repeat the last 2 rows in the diagram until the edge measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” – adjust so you finish after a row of double crochets/relief triple double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. The back piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm = 21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4” from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Work 15-15-17-17-19-21 chain stitches – remember CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and Air. Turn and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch – remember CROCHET INFORMATION = 15-15-17-17-19-21 treble crochets. Then work a row with 1 single crochet in each treble crochet.
Now work pattern (start on the row with the arrow which corresponds to your size in the diagrams) from the right side as follows:
Work A.1 over the first 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches, A.2 over the next 4 stitches, A.8 over the next 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches. When row 3 from the arrow is finished, cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
Left shoulder:
Work 15-15-17-17-19-21 chain stitches, with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and Air. Turn and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 treble crochet in each chain stitch = 15-15-17-17-19-21 treble crochets. Then work a row with 1 single crochet in each treble crochet.
Now work pattern (start on the row with an arrow which corresponds to your size in the diagrams) from the right side as follows: Work A.9 over the first 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, A.5 over the next 4 stitches, A.1 over the last 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches. Continue back and forth until row 4 has been worked, then work 16-16-16-20-20-20 loose chain stitches at the end of the row (= neck) and continue row 4 over the right shoulder as follows: Work A.8 over the first 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches, A.2 over the next 4 stitches, A.1 over the last 1-1-3-1-3-5 stitches = 52-52-56-60-64-68 stitches.
Continue the next 2 rows in the diagrams and over the new stitches on the neck work 1 treble crochet in each stitch from the right side and 1 single crochet in each stitch from the wrong side.
Now work pattern as before over the first 22-22-24-26-28-30 stitches, A.2 over the next 4 stitches and A.5 over the next 4 stitches (make sure you work the same rows in A.2 and A.5 on each side of the front piece), work as before over the last 22-22-24-26-28-30 stitches. When A.8 and A.9 are finished in height, work as follows: As before over the first 5-5-7-5-7-9 stitches, A.6 over the next 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches, A.2 and A.5 as before, A.6 over the next 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches and as before over the last 5-5-7-5-7-9 stitches. Continue this pattern back and forth. The diagrams are repeated from the row with the arrow.
When the piece measures 17-16-17-18-19-19 cm = 6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-7 1/2”, increase 2 stitches on each side of the piece for the armholes – remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every row 2-3-3-3-3-4 times on each side = 60-64-68-72-76-84 stitches. At the end of the next 2 rows work 3-4-5-6-7-7 loose chain stitches for the armholes = 66-72-78-84-90-98 stitches. The new stitches are worked according to A.1.
Continue back and forth until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2” measured from the shoulder – adjust so you finish after the row with the arrow in A.6 or after the next to last row in the diagram.
Now work an edge as follows: Work 1 row with 1 single crochet in each stitch and increase 1 stitch on the row by working 2 single crochets in one stitch = 67-73-79-85-91-99 stitches. Work from the row with the arrow in A.7 until there is 1 stitch left, work the first stitch in A.7. Repeat the last 2 rows in the diagram until the edge measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” – adjust so you finish after a row of double crochets/relief triple double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. The front piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm = 21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”-23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4” from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams in each and every stitch, making sure the seam is not tight. Crochet the side seams together through both layers, from the wrong side as follows: Fasten the strand with 1 single crochet in the side under the sleeve, * work 2 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8”, 1 single crochet *, work from *-* down the whole seam and finish with 1 single crochet.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth, top down.
Work 24-24-24-25-25-27 chain stitches with hook size 5 mm = US H/8 and Air. Turn and work row 1 in A.1, AT THE SAME TIME increase for the sleeve cap on both sides as follows: Increase 2 stitches 3-1-2-1-0-0 times and 1 stitch 3-7-6-8-10-11 times = 42-42-44-45-45-49 stitches. At the end of the next 2 rows, work 3-4-5-6-7-7 new chain stitches = 48-50-54-57-59-63 stitches. The new stitches are worked in A.1.
Insert 1 marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
Continue back and forth with A.1. When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” – adjust so the next row is a row of single crochets, decrease on each side of the piece – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every row of single crochets a total of 6-6-8-8-9-10 times = 36-38-38-41-41-43 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-38-37-35-34 cm = 15 1/4”-15”-15”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8” – adjust so the next row is a row of single crochets. Now work an edge as follows:
Work 1 row with 1 single crochet in each stitch and increase 1-1-1-0-0-0 stitch on the row = 37-39-39-41-41-43 stitches.
Work from the row with the arrow in A.7 until there is 1 stitch left, work the first stitch in A.7. Repeat the last 2 rows in the diagram until the edge measures 6 cm = 2 3/8” – adjust so you finish after a row with double crochets/relief triple double crochets.
Now crochet the sleeve seams, through both layers from the wrong side, as follows: * Work 1 single crochets, 2 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8” *, work from *-* as far as the chain stitches cast on for the armholes, finish with 1 single crochet.
Work the other sleeve in the same way. Sew the sleeves to the body.

NECK:
ROUND 1: Start at the top of the shoulder and fasten the strand with 1 single crochet, * work 2 chain stitches, skip approx. 1½ cm = 1/2”, 1 single crochet *, work from *-* around the whole neck and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on the round = approx. 31- 35 chain-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work 1 slip stitch around the chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the same chain-space, then work 2 double crochets around each of the remaining chain-spaces on the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch on the round.
ROUND 3: 1 chain stitch, work 1 single crochet in each stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch on the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.09.2020
New chart A.6 (was missing 1 single double crochet in stitch in the middle, same row as the arrow).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = start here
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 treble crochet in stitch
symbols = RELIEF-TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on rows of treble crochets): Work 1 triple treble crochet around 1 stitch from the previous row of treble crochets (do not work in the loops, but around the stitch itself). The circle at the end of the relief-triple treble crochet shows which stitch from the previous row of treble crochets to work around. Line-start = row where this relief-triple treble crochet starts. Work 1 tripletreble crochet as follows: Make 4 yarn overs, take the hook around the stitch, pick up the strand, * make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 5 times = 1 stitch.
symbols = RELIEF-TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on rows of treble crochets): Work 1 triple treble crochet as described above, but work so this triple treble crochet lies behind the triple treble crochet with a black circle.
symbols = RELIEF-QUADRUPLE TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on rows of treble crochets): Work 1 quadruple treble crochet around 1 stitch from the previous row of treble crochets (do not work in the loops, but around the stitch itself). The circle at the end of the relief -quadruple treble crochet shows which stitch from the previous row of treble crochets to work around. Line-start = row where this relief-quadruple treble crochet starts. Work 1 quadruple treble crochet as follows: Make 5 yarn overs, take the hook around the stitch, pick up the strand, * make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 5 times = 1 stitch *, work from *-* a total of 6 times = 1 stitch. NOTE: Quadruple treble crochets should be cabled so they are behind the other stitches.
symbols = 2 single crochets in one stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = 2 treble crochets in one stitch (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = RELIEF-DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (only worked on rows of treble crochets): Work 1 double treble crochet around 1 double crochet/relief double treble crochet from the previous row/round of treble crochets Work 1 double treble crochet around 1 double crochet/relief-double treble crochet from the previous row/round with double crochets/relief-double treble crochets (do not work in the loops, but around the double crochet/relief-double treble crochet itself). Make 3 yarn overs, take the hook around the stitch, pick up the strand, * make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* a total of 4 times = 1 stitch.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Chantal Duverbecq 16.08.2021 - 16:57:

Combien fait -il de pelotes pour ce modèle, laine drops air mix 28 taille XL

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2021 kl. 00:28:

Bonjour Chantal, pour la taille XL vous avez besoin de 11 pelotes de DROPS Air. Bon crochet!

country flag Carina 27.07.2021 - 12:55:

Hallo, bij het haken van de rechterschouder van het achterpand staat er op een gegeven moment : haak zoals hiervoor over de (in mijn geval maat L) 26 steken. Welke steken of patroon zijn dat dan juist?

user icon DROPS Design 20.08.2021 kl. 11:02:

Dag Carina,

Je haakt over die 26 steken op dezelfde manier verder in patroon zoals de de toeren daarvoor deed.

country flag Emma 21.06.2021 - 23:54:

Hola! Tengo un problema. No puedo entender el inicio de la manga. Porque 24 cadenas se me quedan a mitad del ancho de la sisa. A que parte corresponden?

user icon DROPS Design 27.06.2021 kl. 19:12:

Hola Emma, la manga se empieza desde arriba con la parte más estrecha de la copa de la manga. Según trabajas, vas a ir aumentando para tener el tamaño total de la sisa.

country flag Claudia 10.06.2021 - 01:50:

Hola! No se si me equivoco pero me parece que en la segunda hilera de p.a.d de A9 y A4 uno de los cruces debería ir por detrás para que quede simétrico con A8 y A3. Saludos!!

country flag Thea Aan 04.06.2021 - 23:00:

Vraag Wat is de betekenis van de 2 ruitjes in teltekening 3A ter hoogte van de pijl

user icon DROPS Design 05.06.2021 kl. 09:22:

Dag Thea,

Dit is '1 vaste in de steek', dus het tweede symbool in de lijst, alleen is het een beetje gekanteld in het telpatroon.

country flag Maria 04.05.2021 - 15:49:

How many meters of yarn are they needed? Cuantos metros o yardas de lanas se ocupan?

user icon DROPS Design 04.05.2021 kl. 16:55:

Dear Maria, to make this piece you will need (depending on the size) 400-450-450-500-550-600 gramm of DROPS Air yarn, which is 150 m / 50 gramm, but takes into consideration the special air-blown quality of the yarn. Happy Crafting!

country flag Monique 07.03.2021 - 12:11:

Mijn opmerking van net bedoel ik de toeren van de dubbele stokjes. De vaste toeren niet meegerekend

country flag Monique 07.03.2021 - 12:02:

Er zit een grote fout in diagram A2 en A5. Als je het vergelijkt met de foto vd trui van drops. Als je het patroon volgt zijn de kabels langgerekt terwijl de op de foto de kabel op zo gezegt toer 2, 4, 6 etc kabelt. Als je het patroon volgt kabelt hij op toer 2, 5, 8 etc. Dit kan je ook zien op de foto van Angelina die hier onder een foto geplaatst heeft. Daar lopen diagram A2 en A5 precies als bij mij, maar komen niet overeen met de foto vd trui van het patroon zelf .

country flag Lydia 02.03.2021 - 21:46:

No veo el diagrama A.7 y en el patrón se hace referencia a él. Podrían aclararme cómo se continúa el diseño después de terminar el diagrama A.6???

user icon DROPS Design 02.03.2021 kl. 21:52:

Hola Lydia, el diagrama A.7 esta junto al esquema de medidas. Buen trabajo!

country flag Eveline 23.01.2021 - 13:29:

Ik begrijp het meerderen aan de mouwen niet. Doe ik 1 toer 2 steken meerderen en 8 toeren 1 steek meerderen? Of 1 keer 2 steken en 8 keren 1 steek? Dus verdeeld over 5 toeren?

user icon DROPS Design 24.01.2021 kl. 11:28:

Dag Eveline,

Je meerdert inderdaad 1 toer 2 steken en daarna 8 toeren 1 steek. In totaal meerder je dus in 9 toeren.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 218-32

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.