DROPS / 217 / 21

Autumn Days by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, textured pattern on the yoke and garter stitch on the body and sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-170
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour 33, rust

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch/garter stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for ribbed edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 9-9-9-10-10-10 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagrams for your size (applies to A.2, A.3 and A.4). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 315 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 14) = 21.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 22nd stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 21st and 22nd stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (increasing the rib on yoke):
Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of each purled section (from the right side) by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Subsequently, knit the new stitches from the wrong side and purl them from the right side.
NOTE: The 3 largest sizes increase 3 times in the purled sections. It is neatest to increase first at the beginning of the purled sections, then at the end and finally at the beginning again.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases in Fisherman’s rib stitches):
Increase 4 stitches in 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch by working 5 stitches in the same stitch as follows (from the right side): Knit 1 in the stitch under the next stitch, but do not slip this stitch from the left needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit 1 in the same stitch on the left needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then slip the stitches from the left needle = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased).

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in garter stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for each side of sleeve): 
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 2 cm, the second when the neck measures 5 cm and the third when the neck measures 8 cm. The other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes are worked with approx. 7½-8-8½-7½-8-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.




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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down as far as the rib. The rib is worked in the round with double pointed needles. The sleeve seams and the openings under the sleeves are sewn together to finish.

NECK:
Cast on 111-115-123-127-131-135 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Remove the one strand – the rest of the piece is worked with 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Change to short circular needle size 3 mm and purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch which is purled on each row, * knit 1 purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch which is purled on each row. Continue this rib but remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME when the neck measures 8 cm, and the next row is from the wrong side, increase 50-52-56-58-60-62 stitches evenly spaced as described below:
Work as before over the first 5 stitches, purl 1, * make 1 yarn over, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left on the row and finish with 5 stitches in rib as before = 161-167-179-185-191-197 stitches on the row.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and insert 1 marker inside the band mid front. The yoke will be measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Work 2 rows of stocking stitch with 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front (The yarn overs are knitted twisted on the first row and the 5 stitches are now purled on every row to finished length).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 purled band stitches, work A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 50-52-56-58-60-62 repeats of 3 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is the same on both sides towards mid front) and finish with 5 purled band stitches.
Continue A.1 like this AT THE SAME TIME as you increase in the purled sections as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

S, M and L:
When A.1 measures 7-8-8 cm and the next row is from the wrong side, increase all purl 2 (seen from the right side) to purl 3 by making 1 yarn over between each of the knitted stitches on the wrong side = 50-52-56 stitches increased = 211-219-235 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XL, XXL and XXXL:
When A.1 measures 3-3-3 cm, increase all purl 2 to purl 3 – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 243-251-259 stitches.
When A.1 measures 6-6-7 cm, increase all purl 3 to purl 4 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 301-311-321 stitches.
When A.1 measures 9-9-10 cm and the next row is from the wrong side, increase all purl 4 (seen from the right side) to purl 5 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 359-371-383 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 211-219-235-359-371-383 stitches.
Start from the right side and work 2 rows of stocking stitch with 5 purled band stitches on each side (the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the first row).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 purled band stitches, work A.2 until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 50-52-56-58-60-62 repeats of 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches), work the first stitch in A.2 (so the pattern is the same on both sides towards mid front) and finish with 5 purled band stitches.
Continue this pattern but when you have worked 6 rows in A.2, increase in the Fisherman’s rib stitches from the right side as described below:

S, M and L:
5 purled band stitches, * increase 4 stitches in the Fisherman’s rib stitch – read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 3, work 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch as usual without increasing, purl 3 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, increase 4 stitches in the last Fisherman’s rib stitch and finish with 5 purled band stitches = 315-327-351 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XL:
Start increasing in the 2nd Fisherman’s rib stitch from the edge and increase 4 stitches in every 4th Fisherman’s rib stitch throughout the row – read INCREASE TIP-2 (a total of 15 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the row) = 419 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XXL:
Start increasing in the first Fisherman’s rib stitch from the edge and increase 4 stitches in every 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch throughout the row – read INCREASE TIP-2 (a total of 21 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the row) = 455 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XXXL:
Start to increase in the 2nd Fisherman’s rib stitch from the edge and increase 4 stitches in every 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch throughout the row – read INCREASE TIP-2 (a total of 21 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the row) = 467 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 315-327-351-419-455-467 stitches.
Continue the pattern in the same way, but where the Fisherman’s rib stitches were increased, work the 5 stitches as follows (from the right side): 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch, purl 3, 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch (see A.2B).
When the yoke measures 15-17-17-19-19-21 cm from the marker, work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 purled band stitches, work A.3 until there are 6 stitches left on the row, but in XL, XXL and XXXL work A.4 over A.2B, so the pattern matches neatly. When there are 6 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.3 (so the pattern is the same on both sides) and finish with 5 purled band stitches.
Continue this pattern until A.3 measures 3-3-3-5-5-5 cm. The yoke now measures approx. 18-20-20-24-24-26 cm from the marker on the neck.
Work 2 rows of stocking stitch over all stitches (purl band stitches as before) and increase, at the same time, 14-30-34-6-2-26 stitches evenly on the first row – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 329-357-385-425-457-493 stitches.
Continue with GARTER STITCH – read description above with the 5 band stitches purled as before – in this way, the bands stand out from the garter stitch on the body.
When the yoke measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck, divide for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 52-57-60-66-72-79 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 93-103-109-121-133-147 stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), place the next 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 52-57-60-66-72-79 stitches as before (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 213-233-249-273-301-329 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 56-61-65-71-78-85 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 101-111-119-131-145-159 stitches between the threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with garter stitch and 5 purled band stitches on each side.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm a total of 4 times = 229-249-265-289-317-345 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28 cm from the division. There is approx. 2 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 58-62-67-73-78-86 stitches evenly spaced– remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 287-311-332-362-395-431 stitches. NOTE: This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 5 purled band stitches, * purl 1, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 5 purled band stitches. Continue this rib for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Kid-Silk, knit the 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece and cast on 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches at the end of the row = 74-78-88-96-102-106 stitches.
Work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 7-8-12-15-16-17 times on each side = 60-62-64-66-70-72 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-34-32-31-29 cm from the division. There is approx. 10 cm left to finished length; you can try the jacket on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
The rest of the sleeve (the rib) is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Divide the stitches between double pointed needles size 3 mm and work 2 rounds of stocking stitch where the number of stitches is adjusted to 60-63-63-66-69-72 stitches on the first round.
Then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) for 10 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-44-42-41-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams, sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew the openings under the sleeves (where stitches were cast on).
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit 1 in stitch under next stitch (= Fisherman’s rib stitch)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Sara 15.06.2020 - 16:36:

The neckline is very elegant and it gives this cardigan a vintage touch. I’ve been searching for a pattern like this!

Renate 05.06.2020 - 18:17:

Mir gefällt dass die Jacke eng am Hals anliegt. Das ist im Winter für mich wichtig.

Ella 04.06.2020 - 13:07:

Denne må jeg til høsten.

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