DROPS / 217 / 22

Autumn Days Jumper by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, textured pattern on the yoke and garter stitch on the body and sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-169
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour 33, rust

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch/garter stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for ribbed edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagrams for your size (applies to A.2, A.3 and A.4).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 300 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 18) = 16.7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 16th and 17th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 15th and 16th and each 16th and 17th stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (increasing rib on yoke):
Increase 1 stitch at the beginning of each purled section by making 1 yarn over. On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then subsequently, purl the new stitches.
NOTE: The 3 largest sizes increase 3 times in the purled sections. It is neatest to increase first at the beginning of the purled sections, then at the end and finally at the beginning again.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases in Fisherman’s rib stitches):
Increase 4 stitches in 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch by working 5 stitches in the same stitch as follows. Knit 1 in the stitch under the next stitch, but do not slip this stitch from the left needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle, knit 1 in the same stitch on the left needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then slip the stitches from the left needle = 5 stitches (i.e. 4 stitches increased).

INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side by making 1 yarn over inside the 2 outermost stitches on each side. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in garter stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for each side of sleeve): 
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the front and back pieces and for the sleeves. The pieces are worked back and forth down to the rib. The rib is worked in the round to finished length. Finally the sleeve seams, the side seams and the openings under the sleeves are sewn together.

NECK:
Cast on 100-104-112-116-120-124 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Remove the one strand – the rest of the piece is worked with 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Change to short circular needle size 3 mm and knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm.
On the next round increase 50-52-56-58-60-62 stitches evenly spaced as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round = 150-156-168-174-180-186 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and insert 1 marker in the middle of the round. The yoke will be measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch (the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the first round). Then work A.1 (= 50-52-56-58-60-62 repeats of 3 stitches) –
AT THE SAME TIME increase in the purled sections as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

S, M and L:
When A.1 measures 7-8-8 cm, increase all purl 2 to purl 3 by making 1 yarn over between each of the 2 purled stitches = 50-52-56 stitches increased = 200-208-224 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XL, XXL and XXXL:
When A.1 measures 3-3-3 cm, increase all purl 2 to purl 3 – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 232-240-248 stitches.
When A.1 measures 6-6-7 cm, increase all purl 3 to purl 4 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 290-300-310 stitches.
When A.1 measures 9-9-10 cm, increase all purl 4 to purl 5 = 58-60-62 stitches increased = 348-360-372 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 200-208-224-348-360-372 stitches.
Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch (the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the first round). Then work A.2 in the round (= 50-52-56-58-60-62 repeats of 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches). Continue this pattern, but when 6 rounds of A.2 have been worked, increase in the Fisherman’s rib stitches as described below – read INCREASE TIP-2:

S, M and L:
* Increase 4 stitches in the first/next Fisherman’s rib stitch, purl 3, work 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch as before without increasing, purl 3 *, work from *-* to end of round (i.e. increase in every 2nd Fisherman’s rib stitch) = 300-312-336 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XL:
Start to increase in the 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch from the beginning of the round, then increase 4 stitches in every 4th Fisherman’s rib stitch until there are 3 Fisherman’s rib stitches left on the round and finally increase 4 stitches in the last of these Fisherman’s rib stitches (i.e. a total of 15 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the round) = 408 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XXL:
Start to increase in the 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch from the beginning of the round and then increase 4 stitches in every 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch to the end of the round (i.e. a total of 20 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the round) = 440 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

XXXL:
Start increasing in the 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch from the beginning of the round, then increase 4 stitches in every 3rd Fisherman’s rib stitch until there are 2 Fisherman’s rib stitches left on the round and finally increase 4 stitches in the last of these Fisherman’s rib stitches (i.e. a total of 21 Fisherman’s rib stitches increased on the round) = 456 stitches. Continue from ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 300-312-336-408-440-456 stitches.
Continue the pattern as before but where the Fisherman’s rib stitches were increased work the 5 stitches as follows, 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch, purl 3, 1 Fisherman’s rib stitch (see A.2B).
When the yoke measures 15-17-17-19-19-21 cm from the marker mid front, work A.3 in the round but in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL work A.4 over A.2B so the pattern fits nicely. Continue this pattern until A.3 measures 3-3-3-5-5-5 cm. The yoke now measures approx. 18-20-20-24-24-26 cm from the marker on the neck.
Work 2 rounds of stocking stitch where you increase 18-34-38-6-6-26 stitches evenly spaced on the first round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 318-346-374-414-446-482 stitches.
Work GARTER STITCH in the round – read description above until the yoke measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck. Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows, making sure the next round is a purled round: Purl 46-51-54-60-66-73 (= ½ back piece), place the next 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), purl 93-103-109-121-133-147 (= front piece), place the next 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and purl the remaining 47-52-55-61-67-74 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand. Front and back pieces and the sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast-on on the one side of the piece and knit these 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches, knit the 93-103-109-121-133-147 on the front piece and knit the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches (half the stitches cast on under the other sleeve) = 101-111-119-131-145-159 stitches on the row; the other stitches (back piece) are left on the needle or placed on a thread.
Continue back and forth with GARTER STITCH – read description above until the piece measures 5 cm from the division. Now increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this every 6th row a total of 4 times on each side = 109-119-127-139-153-167 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 28 cm from the division. There is approx. 2 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and work to desired length. Leave the stitches on the needle or place them on a thread while you work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Starting from the right side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast-on on the one side of the piece, knit the 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches, knit 93-103-109-121-133-147 and knit the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches (half the stitches cast on under the other sleeve) = 101-111-119-131-145-159 stitches.
Work the back piece in the same way as the front piece. Adjust the length to match the front piece. Now work rib in the round over all stitches as described below.

RIB:
Place the stitches from the front and back pieces on the same circular needle size 3.5 mm = 218-238-254-278-306-334 stitches.
Knit 1 round where you increase 52-59-64-70-75-83 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 270-297-318-348-381-417 stitches. NOTE: This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2 ) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Kid-Silk, knit the 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece and cast on 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches at the end of the row = 74-78-88-96-102-106 stitches.
Work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 7-8-12-15-16-17 times on each side = 60-62-64-66-70-72 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-34-32-31-29 cm from the division. There is approx. 10 cm left to finished length; you can try the jumper on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
The rest of the sleeve (the rib) is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Divide the stitches between double pointed needles size 3 mm and work 2 rounds of stocking stitch where the number of stitches is adjusted to 60-63-63-66-69-72 stitches on the first round.
Then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 2) for 10 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-44-42-41-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams, sewing edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Sew the side seams from the armhole down to the rib in the same way. Sew the openings under the sleeves (where stitches were cast on).

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 1 in the stitch under the next stitch (= Fisherman’s rib)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (1)

Mikke 05.06.2020 - 16:20:

Wouw!!

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