DROPS / 212 / 39

Springs Surrender Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-887
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 3112, powder pink

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-7-7 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to raglan):
All increases are done on a row from right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done on a row from right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to side on body and sleeves): 
All decreases are done on a row from right side.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

NUMBER OF STITCHES:
As both increases and decreases are done in A.1a, A.2a, A.3a and A.4a, number of stitches vary according to which row it is counted on (depending on you are increasing/decreasing in pattern).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-5-6-6, approx. 8-8½-8½-9-8-8 cm apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 119-131-137-143-146-155 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
Continue rib like this for 2 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker after band at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work as follows from right side:
Left front piece: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 6-9-9-9-9-12 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 7 stitches).
Left sleeve: Work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3a (= 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches), A.4 (= 4 stitches), 2 stitches in stocking stitch.
Back piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, 11-17-23-17-20-23 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 over 7 stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 over 4 stitches, A.3a over 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches, A.4 over 4 stitches, 2 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right front piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, 6-9-9-9-9-12 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
On next row from right side increase for raglan on each side of every A.1 – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 8 stitches increased). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase like this every other row 22-24-28-33-37-40 times in total.
When the first 3 rows in pattern A.1, A.2 and A.4 has been worked, repeat A.1a, A.2a and A.4a in height.
When A.3a has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3b (= 29-29-29-35-35-35 stitches) over A.3a.
When increase for raglan is done, there are 335-363-401-447-482-515 stitches on needle – read NUMBER OF STITCHES.
Work in the established pattern until piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm from marker.
Adjust so that next row is a row with total number of stitches (i.e. 335-363-401-447-482-515 stitches), this because number of stitches can vary because of decreases/increases in diagrams. On next row divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work over the first 50-55-59-66-72-77 stitches as before, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve, work over the next 89-99-109-121-136-147 stitches, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve and work the last 50-55-59-66-72-77 stitches.

BODY:
= 205-225-243-269-296-317 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread after 54-59-63-70-76-81 stitches in from each side (= in the side of body). There are 97-107-117-129-144-155 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase and decrease later in the sides.
When last repetition of A.1a from the yoke has been worked vertically, work A.1b over every A.1a. When A.1b has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 201-221-239-265-292-313 stitches on needle.
Work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm 4 times in total = 185-205-223-249-276-297 stitches.
When piece measures 10 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP-2(= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm 9 times in total = 221-241-259-285-312-333 stitches.
When piece measures 21-21-22-22-22-22 cm from division, increase 12-13-13-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 233-254-272-299-326-347 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work from right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 stitches remain, finish with knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from division, cast off all stitches by knitting from right side - read CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 81-85-95-105-109-115 stitches – remember number of stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 new stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work pattern and decrease stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
Work A.2a, A.3b and A.4a over the middle stitches, knit the remaining stitches.
When A.3b has been worked, work A.3c over A.3b.
When sleeve measures 1 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every cm 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in total, then decrease every other cm 2-2-2-2-0-0 times in total = 71-75-85-95-99-105 stitches.
On last round in A.3c increase 0-1-2-0-1-1 stitches before pattern, and 2-0-1-2-0-0 stitches after the pattern = 73-76-88-97-100-106 stitches.
When A.3c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 14-12-11-10-8-6 cm from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
Work next round as follows:
* Knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 15-18-24-24-27-30 stitches, A.2b over A.2a, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl over stitches in A.3c, A.4b over A.4a, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* over 15-15-21-24-24-27 stitches and finish with purl 2 = 75-78-90-99-102-108 stitches.
Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 17-15-14-13-11-9 cm from division, then cast off by knitting.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: Changes made to diagram A.4. In addition the written pattern has more info about how to repeat the diagrams A.1a, A.2a and A.4a.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= work 3 stitches in stitch as follows: Knit the stitch but wait to drop the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit the stitch 1 more time, then drop the stitches of the needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
= this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together







Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Ly 28.06.2020 - 21:34:

Bonjour , j’ai besoin explications dans le calcul pour les en attente pour le dos et devant 66 , 121 et 66 mailles pour le dos et devant correspond 253 mailles pour arriver a269 Manques 16 mailles qui correspond aux 8 mailles monter pour les manches Mais pour manches j’ai 97 mailles en attente ont indiques encore le 8 monté Je suis mélangé merci de votre aide pour continuer le beau projet

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 08:44:

Bonjour Ly, en taille XL vous tricotez 66 m pour le devant, glissez les 97 m suivantes en attente et montez 8 m (sous la manche), tricotez les 121 m du dos, glissez les 97 m suivantes en attente et montez 8 m (= sous la manche) et tricotez les dernières 66 m = 269 m. C'est l'étape de la division manches/dos & devant que l'on retrouve dans cette leçon à partir de la photo 9. Bon tricot!

Karin Hagen 21.06.2020 - 23:42:

Hvor mange ganger skal en gjenta mønster A1a, A2a, A4a? Når jeg har delt av til arm har jeg bare strikket disse 9 ganger det stemmer ikke med bilde?

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 08:29:

Hej Karin, det gentager du til du har delt arbejdet til ærmer. God fornøjelse!

Lyne 13.06.2020 - 17:38:

Bonjour , j’ai besoin information. Il est mentionné dans les informations. Quand les 3 premiers rang de A1,a2 et A4 sont tricotés, répéter a1a,a2a.Et a4a en hauteur . Si je comprend bien je n’inclue plus les 3 premiers rang . Qui est remplacé par a1a, a2a et a4a Ou nous devons faire les 3 premiers rang et en plus et en plus a1a, a2a, et a4a Merci de l’explication

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 08:43:

Bonjour Lyne, vous tricotez d'abord les 3 premiers rangs de chaque diagramme puis, au rang suivant, vous tricotez les 4 rangs suivants = A.1a/A.2a/A.4a et vous répétez ces 4 rangs jusqu'à ce qu'il soit indiqué de tricoter A.1b/A.2b/A.4b. Bon tricot!

Celia 10.06.2020 - 09:24:

Bonjour, ce modèle est magnifique, j'aimerai le tricoter pour mon mariage. Les explications en français seront bientôt disponible ? (je me marie en septembre) Je voulais le commencer en anglais mais je ne comprends pas comment répartir les mailles du dos, manches et devant au début.... Je vous remercie !

DROPS Design 10.06.2020 kl. 12:30:

Bonjour Célia, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, changez simplement la langue en cliquant sur le menu déroulant sous les photos. Bon tricot (et félicitations)!

Anna 08.06.2020 - 12:13:

Thank you! I figured it out in the meantime. It was confusing to me because most patterns do not show the stitches on the back side and Drops uses the same symbols. I should have read the legenda more closely 🙈. Sorry for troubling you.

Anna 06.06.2020 - 13:22:

Further to my question yesterday. I think the issue is that Drops uses the same pattern for both jumper and jacket, whereas the jumper is being knitted round wise and the jacket is being knitted back and forth. I look forward to hearing from you !

DROPS Design 08.06.2020 kl. 11:40:

Hi Anna,

It doesn't matter wether the pattern is knitted back and forth or in the round, both times all rows are shown in the diagrams. In the symbol explanation you can find out how to knit the stitches on the wrong or right site. Maybe the lesson 'How to read knitting diagrams' will be helpful. Happy knitting!

Anna 05.06.2020 - 19:42:

Klopt de informatie over de telpatronen wel? Er staat: "De telpatronen laten alle naalden in het patroon aan de goede kant zien". Als ik mijn werk met de foto vergelijk, lijkt dit niet te kloppen. Ik denk dat zowel de heengaande als teruggaande naalden in het telpatroon staan. Ik hoor het graag.

Anna 05.06.2020 - 19:37:

Klopt de informatie over de telpatronen wel? Er staat: "De telpatronen laten alle naalden in het patroon aan de goede kant zien". Als ik mijn werk met de foto vergelijk, lijkt dit niet te kloppen. Ik denk dat zowel de heengaande als teruggaande naalden in het telpatroon staan. Ik hoor het graag.

DROPS Design 08.06.2020 kl. 11:30:

Dag Anna,

De telpatronen laten inderdaad alle naalden in het patroon aan de goede kant zien. Zowel de heengaande naalden als de teruggaande naalden zijn weergegeven in het telpatroon.

Regina 30.05.2020 - 20:24:

Hallo, welche Bedeutung hat das erste Zeichen im Diagramm A4. In A2 ist es ja erklärt und in A4 spiegelverkehrt..... bedeutet es, ich muss dort links stricken bei der Zunahme? Vielen Dank im Vorraus für ihre Mühe

Tânia Santos 27.05.2020 - 16:50:

Por gentileza, a empresa vende as peças prontas ? Faz entrega ? Aguardo retorno e muito obrigada !

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