DROPS / 212 / 40

Spring Surrender by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-881
Yarn group A

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 3112, powder pink

24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to raglan):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to side on body and sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

As both increases and decreases are done in A.1a, A.2a, A.3a and A.4a, number of stitches vary according to which round it is counted on (depending on you are increasing/decreasing in pattern).

To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.




Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 108-120-126-132-135-144 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 2).
Continue rib like this for 2 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

Half back piece: Knit 6-9-9-9-9-12, A.1 (= 7 stitches).
Right sleeve: Knit 2, A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3a (= 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches), A.4 (= 4 stitches), knit 2.
Front piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, knit 11-17-22-17-19-23, A.1 over 7 stitches.
Left sleeve: Knit 2, A.2 over 4 stitches, A.3a over 17-17-17-23-23-23 stitches, A.4 over 4 stitches, knit 2.
Half back piece: Work A.1 over 7 stitches, knit 5-8-9-8-9-11.
Work 1 round with the established pattern.
On next round increase for raglan on each side of every A.1 – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 8 stitches increased). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase like this every other round 22-24-28-33-37-40 times in total.
When the first 3 rows in pattern A.1, A.2 and A.4 has been worked, repeat A.1a, A.2a and A.4a in height.
When A.3a has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.3b (= 29-29-29-35-35-35 stitches) over A.3a.
When increase for raglan is done, there are 324-352-390-436-471-504 stitches on needle – read NUMBER OF STITCHES.
Work in the established pattern until piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm from marker.
Adjust so that next round is a round with total number of stitches (i.e. 324-352-390-436-471-504 stitches), this because number of stitches can vary because of decreases/increases in diagrams.
On next round divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work over the first 45-50-54-61-68-73 stitches as before, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve, work over the next 89-99-108-121-134-145 stitches, slip the next 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under sleeve and work the last 44-49-54-60-67-72 stitches.

= 194-214-232-258-285-306 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under over each sleeve (= in the sides of body).
There are 97-107-116-129-142-153 stitches between marker threads on front piece and 97-107-116-129-143-153 stitches between marker threads on back piece.
Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase and decrease later in the sides.
When last repetition of A.1a from the yoke has been worked vertically, work A.1b over every A.1a. When A.1b has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 190-210-228-254-281-302 stitches on needle.
Continue in the round in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm 4 times in total = 174-194-212-238-265-286 stitches.
When piece measures 10 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP-2(= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every cm 9 times in total = 210-230-248-274-301-322 stitches.
When piece measures 21-21-22-22-22-22 cm from division, increase 12-13-13-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 222-243-261-288-315-336 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1/purl 2). When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from division, cast off all stitches by knitting- read CAST-OFF TIP.

Slip the 73-77-87-97-101-107 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick up 1 new stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under sleeve = 81-85-95-105-109-115 stitches – remember number of stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 new stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Work pattern and decrease stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
Work A.2a, A.3b and A.4a over the middle stitches, knit the remaining stitches.
When A.3b has been worked, work A.3c over A.3b.
When sleeve measures 1 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every cm 3-3-3-3-5-5 times in total, then decrease every other cm 2-2-2-2-0-0 times in total = 71-75-85-95-99-105 stitches.
On last round in A.3c increase 0-1-2-0-1-1 stitches before pattern, and 2-0-1-2-0-0 stitches after the pattern = 73-76-88-97-100-106 stitches.
When A.3c has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 14-12-11-10-8-6 cm from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
Work next round as follows:
* Knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 15-18-24-24-27-30 stitches, A.2b over A.2a, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl over stitches in A.3c, A.4b over A.4a, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* over 15-15-21-24-24-27 stitches and finish with purl 2 = 75-78-90-99-102-108 stitches.
Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 17-15-14-13-11-9 cm from division, then cast off by knitting.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: Changes made to diagram A.4. In addition the written pattern has more info about how to repeat the diagrams A.1a, A.2a and A.4a.


= knit
= purl
= work 3 stitches in stitch as follows: Knit the stitch but wait to drop the stitch off the needle, make 1 yarn over on right needle and knit the stitch 1 more time, then drop the stitches of the needle = 3 stitches (= 2 stitches increased).
= this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round, it should not make a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Manon 27.12.2020 - 22:39:

Qui peut me dire comment on fait le rang 2 ? Tout en maille endroit ou reprend-on toutes les successions d’explications ? Ça me parait bizarre...

DROPS Design 28.12.2020 kl. 09:15:

Bonjour Manon! De quel diagram parlez-vous?

Genevieve 07.12.2020 - 14:24:

Hi. I am knitting the yoke now. Wanted to check if I were to work A3.b 1 time in height and haven't reached the required length before sleeves division, do I repeat A3.b?

DROPS Design 07.12.2020 kl. 16:00:

Dear Genevieve, yes after A.3b has been worked one time in height, repeat diagram from first row. Happy knitting!

Louise Désilets 30.10.2020 - 21:11:

Bonjour! Il y a une note comme quoi il y a eu des corrections dans les diagrammes mais il n'y a aucun autre diagramme. Est-ce que les diagrammes que l'on voit sont déjà corrigé? Merci d'avance!

DROPS Design 02.11.2020 kl. 07:34:

Bonjour Mme Désilets, tout à fait, il ne faudra les réimprimer que si vous aviez déjà imprimé les explications avant la date de la correction. Bon tricot!

Kat 28.10.2020 - 00:00:

I'm trying to knit the L size. From collar to Yoke at front, it said knit 22 stitches for front, but if I do this, the stitches will not match to collar (knit to knit and purl to purl). The stitches before the front (A2, A3a, A4) mostly match. Want to make sure. Thanks.

DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 07:59:

Dear Kat, that's right like this, ou need to knit 22 stitches for the mid front even if the knit stitches do no match the knit stitches from the rib. Happy knitting!

Helena 22.09.2020 - 15:58:

Ich meinte dass A2, A3 und A4 sind mit (2Links 1 Rechts) gezeichnet. Nicht das Bündchen.

DROPS Design 22.09.2020 kl. 16:52:

Liebe Helena, nach den 3 ersten Reihen in A.1, A.2, A.3 , wiederholen Sie A.1a, A.2b, A.4b = A.1a = 1 re, 2 li, 3 re, 2 li, 1 re, aber bei A.2a und A.4a haben Sie nur einmal 2 li bei A.2a/A.4a - das "b" Teil wird später gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helena 19.09.2020 - 01:39:

Hallo, wieso sind alle Muster mit 2L 1R gezeichnet? Das Bild zeigt doch ganz klar glatt Rechts...

DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 08:33:

Liebe Helena, das Bündchen bei der Halsblende wird im Rippenmuster 1 M re, 2 M links gestrickt - siehe 3. Foto -meinten Sie was anderes? Vielleicht könnten Sie uns mehr beschreiben, im Falle Ihre Frage wurde misverstanden. Danke im voraus. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tonya 03.09.2020 - 05:34:

My question is: in the 9th row of the A1 scheme there is a yarn on both sides. And at the same time, according to the instructions, I need to make increases on both sides of this scheme. It turns out that there are 2 yarn over in a row? Then you get a big hole in this place. How to proceed? Thanks!

DROPS Design 03.09.2020 kl. 09:12:

Dear Tonya, when you increase on each side of each A.1 this applies when working A.1a only ie when you repeat the rows 4 to 7 in A.1 (= see A.1a on the right side of diagram), this means you start first with the first 3 rows in A.1 then work and repeat A.1a in height with increases for raglan until all increases are done, divide piece as explained, and then you will work A.1b (see under BODY). Happy knitting!

Tonya 02.09.2020 - 12:00:

У меня такой вопрос: в 9-м ряду схемы А1 стоит накид с обеих сторон. А тоже время, согласно инструкции, мне нужно сделать прибавки с обеих сторон этой схемы. Получается, подряд идут 2 накида? Тогда получится большая дырка в этом месте. Как поступить? Спасибо!

Monica 24.07.2020 - 19:49:

Ik vroeg mij af of het patroon voor maat L wel klopt. Als ik de pas ga breien na de boordsteek, dan kom ik niet uit. Het voorpand heeft dan 36 steken en het achterpand 32. Volgens mij hoort het voorpand niet 22 steken recht te hebben maar 20 en het achterpand ook. Dus dan wordt de eerste naald van de pas te beginnen met 9 steken, de 22 steken voor het voorpand worden dan 20 en eindigt de naald met 11 steken recht. Klopt dit? Zo niet dan loopt het patroon van de pas niet goed met de boord.

DROPS Design 18.11.2020 kl. 21:53:

Dag Monica,

Ja, zou inderdaad de steken aan kunnen passen, zodat je een gelijk aantal steken op het voor- en achterpand hebt.

Ulla Jørgensen 16.07.2020 - 20:25:

Så har jeg fundet fejlen ang. diagram A4 og A2. Jeg har strikket fra venstre mod højre i stedet for omvendt. Derfor blev der forkert for mig :)

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