DROPS / 211 / 2

Barn Dance by DROPS Design

Knitted dress in DROPS Cotton Light. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, lace pattern, cables and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern cl-106
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour 35, rust

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads as follows: Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 8 stitches increased in total on round.) On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 28) = 3.6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to waist on body):
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD IN THE SIDE:
Work 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches in stocking stitch after marker thread in the side, knit 1 in loop around first stitch on left needle (i.e. in stitch from previous round) = 1 stitch increased.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD IN THE SIDE:
Work until 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches remain in stocking stitch before marker thread in the side, knit 1 in loop around outermost stitch on right needle (i.e. in stitch from previous round) = 1 stitch increased.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to waist of body):
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD IN THE SIDE:
Work 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches in stocking stitch after marker thread in the side, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 1 stitch decreased.
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD IN THE SIDE:
Work until 14-16-18-20-22-24 stitches remain before marker thread in the side, knit the next 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves): 
Decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 100-100-106-112-116-120 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Cotton Light. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 28-28-30-40-44-48 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 128-128-136-152-160-168 stitches. Knit 1 round where yarn overs are knitted twisted. Insert 1 marker in the middle of round (= mid front). Measure yoke from this marker! Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.1 in the round (= 16-16-17-19-20-21 repetitions of 8 stitches). Continue pattern like this , and increase as shown in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On round before row marked with arrow in A.1, there are 256-256-272-304-320-336 stitches on needle. On round marked with arrow in A.1, increase 0-8-0-8-0-0 stitches evenly = 256-264-272-312-320-336 stitches.
When A.1 has been worked, yoke measures approx. 15-15-15-19-19-19 cm from marker at the neck.
Now insert 4 marker threads in piece as explained below. Use marker threads when increasing for a small raglan.
Count 37-39-40-46-49-53 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 54-54-56-64-62-62 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 74-78-80-92-98-106 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 54-54-56-64-62-62 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch. 37-39-40-46-49-53 stitches remain on back piece after last marker thread.
Work in stocking stitch in the round and increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - read explanation above. Increase like this every other round 2-4-6-6-8-10 times in total vertically = 272-296-320-360-384-416 stitches on needle.
Continue with stocking stitch without increases until yoke measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next round as follows from mid back:
Work 39-43-46-52-57-63 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 78-86-92-104-114-126 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) , and work the remaining 39-43-46-52-57-63 stitches in stocking stitch as before (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn and remove the all markers/marker threads. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Begin round at one of the marker threads in side on body, and work stocking stitch in the round for 2 cm. Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Count 24-27-30-35-40-45 stitches, insert 1st marker before next stitch, count 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches (= mid front), insert 2nd marker before next stitch, count 48-54-60-70-80-90 stitches, insert 3rd marker before next stitch, count 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches (= mid back) and insert 4th marker before next stitch = 24-27-30-35-40-45 stitches remain on round after last marker.
Move the marker threads and markers upwards when working. Use marker threads later when decreasing and increasing in the sides on body, and use markers when working cables at the front and back on dress.
Then work waist at the same time as working cables as explained below - read both WAIST and CABLES below before continuing.

WAIST:
Work stocking stitch in the round and decrease 1 stitch for waist on each side of both marker threads– read DECREASE TIP -1(= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2½ cm 4 times in total vertically = 152-168-184-208-232-256 stitches.
When piece measures 16 cm from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch for waist on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4th round 24-24-24-26-26-26 times in total vertically = 248-264-280-312-336-360 stitches.

CABLES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm from division in all sizes, work cables as follows: Work in stocking stitch until 4 stitches remain before 1st marker, work A.2 (= 4 stitches), work in stocking stitch until 2nd marker, work A.3 (= 4 stitches), work in stocking stitch until 4 stitches remain before 3rd marker, work A.2 (= 4 stitches), work in stocking stitch until 4th marker, work A.3 (= 4 stitches), and work in stocking stitch the rest of round.
Continue pattern like this.
When A.2 and A.3 has been worked, work A.4 over A.2 and A.5 over A.3. When A.4 and A.5 has been worked, work A.x over A.4 and A.y over A.5. When A.x and A.y has been worked, work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches until piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm from division (approx. 15 cm remain until finished measurements, try the dress on and work to desired length). Then work an edge as explained below.

EDGE WITH LACE PATTERN:
Knit 1 round while increasing 4-0-8-0-0-0 stitches evenly = 252-264-288-312-336-360 stitches.
Then work A.6 in the round (= 21-22-24-26-28-30 repetitions of 12 stitches). When A.6 has been worked, there are 294-308-336-364-392-420 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round over all stitches - read explanation above. Cast off by knitting– read CAST-OFF TIP. Dress measures approx. 86-89-92-95-98-101 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 58-62-68-76-78-82 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm, and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 64-68-76-84-88-92 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches and move the marker thread upwards when working, it is used for decrease mid under sleeve later.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 2-2-1-1-½-½ cm 5 times in total in all sizes = 54-58-66-74-78-82 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 13-12-10-8-7-5 cm from division (approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the dress on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP! Sleeve measures approx. 16-15-13-11-10-8 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit or purl yarn over as shown in diagram (it should make a hole)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round purl yarn over twisted (it should not make a hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= purl 2 together
= purl 2 twisted together
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= increase round




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Yasmine 01.05.2020 - 19:54:

Pour les torsades, on ne devrait pas commencer par les A4 et A5 ? car si on commence par l'A2 et l'A3, ce n'est pas possible de décaler les torsades

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 11:09:

Bonjour Yasmine, les torsades et décalages de A.2 et A.3 vont permettre de décaler les torsades vers le milieu du devant et du dos (moins de mailles entre les deux), puis en tricotant A.4 et A.5 on va écarter les torsades l'une de l'autre en les rapprochant des côtés. Bon tricot!

Eva Roberg 24.04.2020 - 16:49:

Hei igjen. Da har jeg funnet svar på spørsmålet mitt selv! 2.avsnittet av BOL står det: På str L skal en sette merke først etter 30m, så sette et nytt merke etter 40m, så står det (=midt foran) . Det var forvirrende. Burde stå: Ved disse merkene strikkes fletter , dette blir da på hver side av forstykke. Og det samme på bakstykke. Ville forstått oppskriften bedre da. Mvh Eva

Eva Roberg 24.04.2020 - 12:01:

Hei. Jeg strikker str L og står nå fast da det under det andre avsnittet under BOL står at det er midt foran ved 2. Merke? Jeg teller fra merketråden ( under armen ) der jeg begynte Bol-arbeidet: 1.merke etter 30 m og 2.merke etter 40m står det. Dette blir da ikke i midten av kjolen? Midten blir da etter i alt 50m ( teller masker fra under armene der jeg har merke. Har lest mange ganger og telt og finner ikke ut av dette.

DROPS Design 29.04.2020 kl. 10:33:

Hej Eva, du sætter de 2 masker så du har 40 masker midt foran, mærkerne markerer der hvor du skal lave ind og udtagninger og dem kan du se på billedet at de er et stykke ind i hver side. God fornøjelse!

Rianne Oprel 15.04.2020 - 17:39:

In de legenda bij de teltekeningen staat bij het dichte bolletje dat de omslag gedraaid averecht gebreid moet worden (dat klopt), zodat er een gaatje ontstaat. Dit moet zijn, zodat er géén gaatje ontstaat!

Lucia Nascimento 15.04.2020 - 14:45:

Hei igjen Jeg er 156 høy og skal strikke størrelse M, DROPS Design: Modell cl-106 Garngruppe B . Hvor mange garn nøster av DROPS Cotton Light trenger jeg ? Mvh Lucia

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 15:38:

Hei Lucia. Garnmengden finner du under MATERIALER. Når det står slik: STØRRELSE: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL MATERIALER: DROPS COTTON LIGHT fra Garnstudio (tilhører garngruppe B) 650-700-800-850-950-1050 g farge 35, rust. Størrelse M er nr. 2 og da trenger du garnmenden nr. 2, altså 700 gram. God Fornøyelse!

Lucia Nascimento 15.04.2020 - 11:21:

Hvilken størrelse bruker modellen på bildet? Medium??

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 11:31:

Hei Lucia. Modellen på bildet er ca 170 cm høy og bruker størrelse S eller M. Du finner en målskisse av det ferdige plagget (i cm) nederst i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

Desiree Pierey 08.04.2020 - 00:24:

Volgens mij begint de kabel bij 5cm na de splitsing. Patroon komt niet uit. Op 2cm. Is te hoog. Misschien een fout bij de vertaling. Het Is dat ik geen foto kan plaatsen.

Desiree Pierey 08.04.2020 - 00:23:

Volgens mij begint de kabel bij 5cm na de splitsing. Patroon komt niet uit. Op 2cm. Is te hoog. Misschien een fout bij de vertaling. Het Is dat ik geen foto kan plaatsen.

Larissa Ecke 26.03.2020 - 08:18:

Vielen Dank für die tollen Anleitungen!!!! Das Kleid ist soo schön. Ich möchte es gern ein ganzes Stück länger stricken, bis über das Knie. Kann ich einfach das Rockteil entsprechend länger sticken oder muss ich etwas beachten?

DROPS Design 26.03.2020 kl. 10:24:

Liebe Frau Ecke, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Viviane F 19.03.2020 - 09:20:

Très beau modèle !

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