DROPS / 213 / 35

Hey June by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is crocheted top down at an angle, A-shape and lace pattern. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern sk-085
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 03, light beige

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 8 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 5.40 € /50g
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 5.40 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At beginning of every round with treble crochet replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches.
Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Round beginning with 1 chain stitch in the diagrams, begins with 3 chain stitches (these will replace last treble crochet on round).
Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch.
Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Work 2 treble crochets in same stitches (= 1 treble crochet increased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round top down. First work a yoke. Then divide the piece into body and sleeves and continue in the round separately. Finish with an edge around the neckline.

YOKE:
Work 96-96-104-104-112-112 chain stitches - read CHAIN STITCHES, on hook size 4.5 mm with Sky and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 treble crochet in every chain stitch and increase 16-16-12-16-16-24 treble crochets evenly – read CROCHET INFORMATION and INCREASE TIP = 112-112-116-120-128-136 treble crochets.

WORK PATTERN A.1 TO A.5 AS FOLLOWS:
Round begins in transition between left sleeve and back piece.
Work * A.1a (= 2 treble crochets) over 22-22-23-24-26-28 treble crochets, A.2a (= 1 treble crochet = mid back/mid front), A.3a (= 2 treble crochets) over 22-22-23-24-26-28 treble crochets (= back piece/front piece), A.4a (= 1 treble crochet), A.3a over 8 treble crochets, A.5a (= 2 treble crochets = sleeve) *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
On 4th round increase (in addition to diagrams) 0-2-2-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly on each front piece/back piece on each side of middle stitch (i.e. 0-4-4-8-8-12 stitches increased in total on each front piece/back piece) and 0-2-2-2-2-4 treble crochets evenly on each sleeve (= 0-12-12-20-20-32 stitches increased evenly and 40 stitches increased in A.2a/A.4a/A.5a) = 152-164-168-180-188-208 stitches.
Repeat pattern vertically.
I.e. work A.2a over the middle treble crochet from previous repetition.
Every time it is repeated there are 6 treble crochets more on each side of middle stitch, which are worked in pattern A.1a/A.3a.
Work A.4a over the first treble crochet from previous repetition, work the remaining 4 stitches in pattern A.3a.
Work A.5a over the last 2 treble crochets from previous repetition, work the remaining stitches in pattern A.3a.
I.e. increase 8 stitches in total on each sleeve and 12 stitches on front piece/back piece for every repetition of pattern vertically (= 40 stitches increased in total).
On 8th round (i.e. last round of 2nd repetitions) increase (in addition to diagrams) 0-2-2-4-4-6 treble crochets evenly on each front piece/back piece on each side of middle stitch (i.e. 0-4-4-8-8-12 stitches increased in total on each front piece/back piece) and 0-2-2-2-2-4 treble crochets evenly on each sleeve (= 0-12-12-20-20-32 stitches increased evenly and 40 stitches increased in A.2a/A.4a/A.5a) = 192-216-220-240-248-280 stitches.
Then repeat pattern vertically.
When 15-15-17-19-21-21 rounds have been worked in total, work 1 more round as before but increase 1 stitch on each sleeve = 274-298-322-362-390-422 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 20-20-23-25-28-28 cm.
Insert 4 markers in piece without working as follows:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round, insert 1 marker after 93-101-109-125-135-147 treble crochets (= back piece), insert 1 marker after 44-48-52-56-60-64 treble crochets (= right sleeve), insert 1 marker after 93-101-109-125-135-147 treble crochets (= front piece), the remaining stitch on round (= 44-48-52-56-60-64 treble crochets) are left sleeve.
These markers mark where yoke is divided later.
If the crochet tension is not correct vertically continue to work as explained below until piece measures 20-20-23-25-28-28 cm but the increase will continue and the body will be a bit wider. Work as follows if needed:
Continue with A.2a over middle stitch(es) (depending on which round you are working) on front piece/back piece and A.1a/A.3a over the remaining stitches.
When piece measures 20-20-23-25-28-28 cm, divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work as before over stitches on back piece until marker thread, work 8 chain stitches, skip stitches between the 2 marker threads (= sleeve), work as before over stitches on front piece until next marker thread, work 8 chain stitches, skip the last stitches between marker threads (= sleeve).

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under each sleeve. Move the marker threads upwards, decrease on each side of these.
Continue pattern as before, i.e. increase mid front and mid back while decreasing stitches under each sleeve by working diagram A.6a and A.7a as follows:
Work until stitches in A.6a remain before marker thread (this is according to where pattern was casted off for body/sleeves), work A.6a, work A.7a.
Work like this on each side of every marker thread. Decrease stitches in A.6a and A.7a and increase stitches in A.2a mid front/mid back.
When 1 repetition / 4 rows have been worked vertically, 16 stitches have been decreased and 24 stitches have been increased, i.e. increase 8 stitches per repetition.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 24 cm from where piece was divided, adjust to finish with 2 rounds with only treble crochets - or work to desired measurements.

SLEEVES:
Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch under sleeve, work 1 treble crochet in each of the 4 chain stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the 44-48-52-56-60-64 stitches skipped for sleeve and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 4 chain stitches under sleeve = 52-56-60-64-68-72 treble crochets.
Work until A.3a measures 32-33-31-30-27-28 cm from division (or desired length– NOTE!: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke) - adjust after 2 round with only treble crochets.
Then work 1 edge around the sleeve as follows:
Work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve, adjust to finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck as follows: Begin mid on top of shoulder, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 1st stitch. Work * 1 double crochet in next stitch, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* around the neck like this, adjust to finish round with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Make sure edge is not too tight at the neck, skip fewer stitches if needed. Fasten off.

Diagram

= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around stitch
= chain stitch
= work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, but on last pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased)
= work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around next chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, but on last pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).
= work 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in next chain stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased)
= this round has been worked already; it only shows how next round should be worked in stitches



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Charlotte 22.06.2020 - 17:28:

Hei! Nydelig genser! Men jeg forstår ikke dette: «Dvs det økes totalt 8 masker på hvert av ermene og 12 masker på forstykket/bakstykket for hver repetisjon av mønsteret i høyden (= totalt 40 masker økt)» Sånn som jeg leser diagrammet økes det kun 3 ganger i A.5a og A.4a= 6 masker på hvert av ermene og i A.2a økes tilsammen 10 masker på for/bakstykke. Hva er det jeg ikke har skjønt?

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 08:35:

Hej Charlotte, du øger 4 staver jevnt fordelt på hvert av forstykket/bakstykke og 2 staver på hver av ermene i tillegg til diagrammene. I A.5 øker du 1 m på hver række. God fornøjelse!

Mieke Troosters 10.06.2020 - 09:52:

Hoi, Kunnen jullie juist aangeven welke delen wat zijn ? A.1a (= 2 stokjes) over 22-22-23-24-26-28 stokjes, A.2a (= 1 stokje = midden achter/midden voor), A.3a (= 2 stokjes) over 22-22-23-24-26-28 stokjes (= achterpand/voorpand), A.4a (= 1 stokje), A.3a over 8 stokjes, A.5a (= 2 stokjes = mouw) ??? Zijn A1 + A2 + A3 het voor en achterpand ? A4 + A5 de mouwen ?

DROPS Design 11.06.2020 kl. 14:07:

Dag Mieke,

De toer begint in de overgang tussen de linker mouw en het achter pand, dus je haakt eerst richting midden achter. A.1a haak je tot midden achter. A.2a haak je op midden achter, A.3 a haak je over de andere helft van het achterpand. A4. a is de overgang van het achterpand naar de rechter mouw. Dan haak je A.3a over 8 steken van de mouw en tot slot A.5a. Dit is de overgang van de rechter mouw naar het voorpand. Vervolgens herhaal je dit zodat je weer uitkomt bij de overgang tussen de linker mouw en het achterpand.

Ruxi 20.05.2020 - 17:22:

Hi! I have 1 more question, please! Could you explain the first row after the body separation for the XS size? (mentioning the number of double crochets in each section?). I don't understand what "move the marker thread upwards" means and also how we're supposed to follow the A6a and A7a pattern (because there are those 8 chain stitches under the sleeve, but according to the diagram, we should be working over 12 stitches in total...) Thank you!!

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 10:26:

Dear Ruxi, there is no number of sts since this will depend on your tension in height. "move the markers" means to let them follow the work so that you mark the sides. Work A.6/A.7 as follows: start 2 dc before the 8 chains on the side, work A.6 (= 2 sts from body + 4 chains), marker, work A.7 (= 4 chains + 2 sts from body). Happy crocheting!

Clare 14.05.2020 - 17:01:

I’m new to crochet. Where the pattern says A.1a (=2 treble crochets) over 22 treble crochets, could you explain this a little more, I keep ending up with 44 double crochets in this section and I don’t think it’s correct.

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 03:24:

Dear Clare, if the pattern says you have to repeat Pattern A.1a (2 stitch) over 22 stitches, that means that you have to repeat the pattern 11 times in width (in otherword you repeat the 2 stitch repeat until you reach the end of the allotted 22 stitch). I hope this helps.Happy Knitting!

Amanda 11.05.2020 - 19:42:

I’m trying to make the medium size. A.1a and A.3a both days to work over 23 stitches, but they are 2 stitch repeats so at the third row the pattern doesn’t align with the section that follows? What am I missing?

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 10:11:

Dear Amanda, work A.1a/A.3 over 23 sts as follows: repeat the 2 sts a total of 11 times (= 22 sts in total), then work the first st in diagram = 23 sts. So that the pattern is symetrical on each side (starts and ends the same way). Happy crocheting!

Jo Coombs 09.05.2020 - 11:02:

Oh, I've been looking for a different looking jumper that I can crochet in different sizes. Thank you!

Inge De Groot 05.05.2020 - 18:47:

De hele dag geprobeerd. Ik kom niet tot de 180 steken. Het is óf te ingewikkeld beschreven of te moeilijk, terwijl ik al heel wat afgehaakt heb maar ik haak af. Jammer want het model ziet er prachtig uit.

Inge De Groot 05.05.2020 - 13:24:

Na de uitleg over het meerderen in de 4de toer kom ik er nog niet uit. Jammer dat het, vooral het begin, niet per toer beschreven staat. Ik begrijp nog steeds niet hoe er van de 120 naar de 180 gemeerderd wordt in de 4de toer. Maar het zal voor mij dan wel te hoog gegrepen zijn, frustrerend dit, jammer.

DROPS Design 07.05.2020 kl. 10:41:

Dag Inge,

Erg jammer en frustrerend dat je er niet uitkomt. Het is de bedoeling dat je gewoon het telpatroon volgt en daarnaast op elk voorpand en op elk achter pand 0-4-4-8-8-12 steken verdeeld over de panden meerdert. Ook op elke mouw meerder je 0-2-2-2-2-4 steken verdeeld over de mouw. Samen met de meerderingen die al in de telpatronen zitten kom je dan op het juiste aantal steken.

Inge De Groot 05.05.2020 - 12:07:

Bedankt voor de uitleg!

Inge De Groot 03.05.2020 - 17:12:

Hallo, ik snap het meerderen op de 4de toer niet. 20 steken verdeeld gemeerderd, maar 40 steken gemeerderd in de telpatronen? Wat is het verschil tussen meerderen en verdeeld meerderen? De 20 steken meerderen begrijp ik, maar de 40 niet waar die vandaan komen. Ik vind het er erg ingewikkeld beschreven staan.

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 11:56:

Dag Inge,

De 40 steken zijn de meerderingen die al in het patroon verwerkt zijn, hiervoor hoef je dus alleen het telpatroon te volgen. Daarnaast meerder je ook nog zoals aangegeven staat in het de beschrijving, dus 8 stokjes op elk pand en 2 stokjes op elke mouw, is 20 stokjes extra in totaal over de hele toer.

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