DROPS / 210 / 5

Rainy Day Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with textured pattern in DROPS Air. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: bottom up, jumpers,
DROPS design: Pattern ai-248
Yarn group C or A + A

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 03, pearl grey

16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.

Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€. Read more.

Pattern instructions




GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 89 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7.4.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck decrease front piece):
Decrease inside 3 stitches, continue these 3 stitches in stocking stitch up along neck edge. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows before stitches slipped on a stitch holder for neck (left shoulder).
Work until 5 stitches on needle (towards stitches slipped on a stitch holder), knit 2 together, work the last 3 stitches on needle in stocking stitch.

Decrease as follows after stitches slipped on a stitch holder for neck (right shoulder).
Work 3 stitches in stocking stitch, slip next stitch knitwise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over, work the rest of row.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, 2 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.



Work jumper back and forth in 2 parts that are sewn together when finished. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 89-97-103-113-125-137 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows from right side: 2 edge stitches in in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, * knit 1/purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 8 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-14-14-16-18-20 stitches evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 77-83-89-97-107-117 stitches. Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm, cast off for armholes in each side. Cast off stitches at beginning of every row in each side: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-3 times = 65-71-75-83-93-101 stitches. Continue in A.1 until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm. Now cast off the middle 27-27-29-31-33-35 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease on next row from the neck as follows: 1 stitch 1 time = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, and cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Now slip the middle 17-17-19-21-23-25 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease every row from the neck as follows: 1 stitch 6 times - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck) = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm , and cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/ circular needle, bottom up. Divide piece when decreasing for sleeve cap and work back and forth on needle.

Cast on 46-48-50-52-52-56 stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib, knit 1/purl 1. When piece measures 8 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm, and work in stocking stitch On first round in in stocking stitch decrease 8-8-8-8-8-10 stitches evenly = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-10-10-12-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP. Work yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Increase every 3½-3½-3-3-2-2 cm 11-12-13-13-15-15 times in total = 60-64-68-70-74-76 stitches. When piece measures 50-49-49-48-45-44 cm, cast off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread (= 6 stitches cast off mid under sleeve), then work sleeve back and forth. Cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, then cast off the remaining stitches. Work another sleeve the same way.

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch until 8 cm remain = vent.

Pick up approx. 92-106 stitches with circular needle size 4,5 mm around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder and adapt so that the number of stitches is divisible by 2). Work rib knit 1/purl 1 for 9 cm. Cast off. Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a folding edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.04.2020
Correction: Edited length measurements up to armhole and neck on front and back piece.


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Anne Ruythooren 30.07.2020 - 10:34:

Oei, zijn jullie mij vergeten? ik heb nog geen antwoord ontvangen op mijn vraag van 25/07. Alvast bedankt om toch nog te willen antwoorden.Ik kan momenteel niet voortbreien aan die mouw.

Anne-Britt 29.07.2020 - 23:12:

Det hadde vært veldig fint med et bilde eller to som viser splitten bedre :)

Anne Ruythooren 25.07.2020 - 13:41:

Ik ben een mouw aan het breien met 4 naalden en zie dat er een soort ladder is in elke hoek( ondanks dat ik de draad goed aanspan bij het begin van elke naald). Hoe kan ik dat vermijden? ( verdwijnt die ladder bij het wassen?)

DROPS Design 02.08.2020 kl. 19:15:

Dag Anne,

Als het goed is zou je geen ladder moeten krijgen in de overgang bij het wisselen van naalden, als je in de rondte breit met 4 naalden. In het begin van het werk lijkt dat soms wel een beetje zo, maar als je verder gaat in de hoogte verdwijnt dat vaak wel.

Anne Ruythooren 18.07.2020 - 11:57:

Ik begrijp patroon A1 niet zo goed.heb ik het juist als je 1 naald rechts moet breien en 1 naald 1 steek rechts en 1 steek averechts en dit telkens herhalen?.op de foto lijkt het alsof de trui in boordsteek is gebreid. Of moet je elke naald 1 steek rechts en 1 steek averechts breien.maar dan klopt het patroon A1 weer niet?

DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 08:49:

Dag Anne,

Vanaf de goede kant gezien brei je steeds 1 naald rechte en dan 1 naald waarbij je steeds 1 steek recht en 1 steek averecht breit. Hierdoor krijg je een soort variant van de boordsteek.

Moyen Satisfait 16.07.2020 - 20:48:

Drops design, je vous conseille en tant que cliente de revoir la manière de faire les emmanchures et la longueur des manches. Si je suis les instructions, du patron les manches sont trop courte. C'est le deuxième pull tricoté à partir de votre site à ce que ça arrive.

DROPS Design 17.07.2020 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Moyen Satisfait, n'oubliez pas de toujours vérifier les mesures du schéma pour chaque taille, comparez-les à celles d'un pull similaire que vous aimez et dont vous aimez la forme pour ajuster la longueur et ainsi ajouter les quelques centimètres qui vous manquent. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller si besoin. Bon tricot!

Anne Ruythooren 16.07.2020 - 08:02:

Ik begrijp patroon A1 niet goed. Als men patroon leest van rechts naar links voor eerste naald, betekent dit die naald rechts breien?. De 2 de naald lezen van links naar rechts, betekent dit dus één steek rechts en 1 steek averechts breien? daarna weer naald alleen rechts?

Debra J Lewallen 02.07.2020 - 03:01:

I would like to download some of your free patterns, however, I can't find a link Cfc to ssf o so.

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 08:55:

Dear Mrs Lewallen, our patterns can only be printed, but using a virtual printer will allow you to save them as .PDF files. Happy knitting!

Doris Thompson 29.06.2020 - 03:52:

Is the body of the sweater done as a knit a row purl a row or knit 1 purl 1

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:10:

Dear Mrs Thompson, the diagram A.1 is worked with alternately 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 stitch in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

Cindy 18.06.2020 - 12:16:

I love the sweater but wish it was a flat knitting pattern. I don't like double pointed needles.

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 16:03:

Dear Cindy, you will find how to adapt a pattern for straight needles here. Happy knitting!

Marjon 04.06.2020 - 18:04:

Ik maak de trui in maat L, dus het achterpand meet totaal 66 cm. Is dat inclusief de 8cm boord. Vriendelijke groet, Marjon.

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 12:42:

Dag Marjon,

Ja, dat is inclusief de boord!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 210-5

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.