DROPS / 213 / 6

Nature Awakes Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Delight. The piece is worked top down with 2-coloured English rib, stripes and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-214
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 302, camel
And use:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 20, blueberry pie

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for English rib and neck.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.25 € /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.25 € /50g
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100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.65 € /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.85 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.40€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH:
Because you work 2 rows from the right side followed by 2 rows from the wrong side, the garter stitches need to be worked as follows: * Knit from right side, purl from right side, purl from wrong side, knit from wrong side *, work from *-*.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.
A.2 is the lace pattern.
A.1 and A.3 to A.8 are worked back and forth in English rib with off-white and blueberry pie.
A.9 is worked in the round in English rib with off-white and blueberry pie. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 138 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 42) = 2.9. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over.
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

2-COLOURED ENGLISH RIB:
The striped pattern is worked back and forth with English rib according to diagrams A.1 and A.3 to A.8.
To get the 2-coloured effect work alternately 1 row with colour-1 and then 1 row with colour-2.
* Work the row from the right side with colour-1, push the stitches back on the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the right side. Then work 1 row with colour-2.
Work 1 row from the wrong side with colour-1, push the stitches back on the circular needle so the next row is also worked from the wrong side. Then work 1 row with colour-2 *, work from *-* to finished length.
Unfilled square/star and filled square/star (outside the diagrams) show whether the row is worked from the right or wrong side and which colour you are using.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 1 and work the last stitch in garter stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 7½-7½-8-7-7-7½ cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The bands and yoke are worked separately and sewn together afterwards. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body (including the bands) continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 132-138-144-147-156-159 stitches (including 7 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and off-white.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above!
When the piece measures 2 cm, work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2 (= band), knit and increase 40-42-44-46-46-52 stitches evenly spaced on the row – read INCREASE TIP-1 – and until there are 7 stitches left, then purl 2 knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch (band) = 172-180-188-193-202-211 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Continue with pattern over the bands as before and stocking stitch over the other stitches until the piece measures 1-2-2-2-3-3 cm from the marker.
Now work the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the band as before, then place these 7 stitches on a thread, work until there are 7 stitches left and place these 7 stitches on a thread without working them, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row. Knit 1 row from the right side and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row = 160-168-176-181-190-199 stitches.
The bands are continued once the yoke is finished and then sewn to the yoke inside the 1 edge stitch.
Cut the off-white strand and change to camel.
Work 3 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 41-43-45-46-47-52 stitches evenly spaced = 201-211-221-227-237-251 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to off-white.
Knit 1 row from the right side. Cut the off-white strand.

ENGLISH RIB:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm.
Now continue with pattern using blueberry pie and off-white as follows (from the right side; i.e. push the stitches back on the needle so you work 2 rows from the right side, one after the other – read 2-COLOURED ENGLISH RIB):
Work 1 EDGE STITCH IN GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 (= 2 stitches) until there is 1 stitch left (i.e. the pattern begins and ends with 1 knitted stitch), finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat A.1a in height until the piece measures 7-8-9-9-10-10 cm from the marker (i.e. approx. 4-4-5-5-5-5 cm English rib), adjust so you finish with 1 row from the wrong side with off-white.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and continue with off-white as follows:

LACE PATTERN:
Work 2 rows stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (the yarn overs from the English rib are worked together with their respective stitches on the first row).
Change to camel.
Work 1 ridge and increase 22-24-28-34-38-44 stitches evenly spaced on the first row = 223-235-249-261-275-295 stitches.
On the next row from the right side work as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Change to off-white.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 52-56-58-62-64-76 stitches evenly spaced = 275-291-307-323-339-371 stitches. Cut the off-white strand.

ENGLISH RIB:
Change to blueberry pie.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm.
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.3 until there is 1 stitches left (i.e. A.3 starts and finishes with 1 knitted stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, continue the pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.4 (= 1 stitch), A.5 (= 3 stitches), A.6 (= 9 stitches), * A.5 over 3 stitches, A.7 (= 1 stitch), A.5 over 3 stitches, A.6 over 9 stitches *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left (= 16-17-18-19-20-22 times in width), A.5 over 3 stitches, A.8 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch .
Repeat A.4 to A.8 until the piece measures approx. 20-21-22-25-26-28 cm in height, adjust so you finish after a complete or half a repeat in height.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Knit 1 row from the right side with blueberry pie and increase 47-67-70-80-88-92 stitches evenly spaced (the yarn overs from the English rib are worked together with their stitches) = 322-358-377-403-427-463 stitches.
Change to off white.
Work 1 row from the right side and increase 0-0-15-29-45-45 stitches evenly spaced = 322-358-392-432-472-508 stitches. Work stocking stitch until the piece measures 20-22-23-26-27-29 cm from the marker.
Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves:
Work 47-53-56-62-69-76 stitches (= front piece), place the next 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under the sleeve, work 92-104-112-124-138-152 stitches (= back piece), place the next 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 8 stitches under the sleeve and finish by working the remaining 47-53-56-62-69-76 stitches (= front piece).

BODY:
= 202-226-240-264-292-320 stitches.
On the next row from the right side decrease 17-21-21-23-25-27 stitches evenly spaced = 185-205-219-241-267-293 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

ENGLISH RIB:
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm.
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (i.e. A.1 starts and ends with a knitted stitch). Repeat A.1a in height until the English rib measures approx. 3 cm in height.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.

REST OF BODY:
Now finish the piece in stocking stitch using off-white.
On the next row from the right side increase 17-21-21-23-25-27 stitches evenly spaced (the yarn overs from the English rib are worked together with their respective stitches) = 202-226-240-264-292-320 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread 51-57-60-66-73-80 stitches in from each side (= in sides of body). There are 100-112-120-132-146-160 stitches between marker threads on the back piece.
Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
At the beginning of the next 2 rows decrease 1 stitch on each side of the piece = 200-224-238-262-290-318 stitches.
Now work the bands (i.e. the 7 stitches on threads on each side) as follows:

RIGHT BAND:
Worked with off-white.
Continue the pattern as before and cast on 1 edge stitch at the end of the first row from the wrong side = 8 stitches. The edge stitch is worked in garter stitch onwards. Work pattern as before until the band measures the same as the yoke + body; adjust so the band is neither too tight nor too loose in relation to the front piece.
Cast off the edge stitch and place the stitches back on the same needle as the body.

LEFT BAND:
Work as the right band but cast on the 1 edge stitch at the end of the first row from the right side.

REST OF BODY (including the band):
= 214-238-252-276-304-332 stitches. Continue with pattern as before over the band and stocking stitch over the other stitches.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the English rib section, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 2½ cm a total of 8-6-7-7-7-8 times = 246-262-280-304-332-364 stitches.
When the piece measures 29-29-30-29-30-30 cm from the division increase 57-59-59-59-58-59 stitches evenly spaced = 303-321-339-363-390-423 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib from the right side as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left and finish with knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit from the right side – read CASTING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Knit 2 rounds with off-white.
On the next round decrease 8 stitches evenly spaced = 68-74-84-92-98-102 stitches. Then work pattern as follows:

ENGLISH RIB:
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
Continue pattern with blueberry pie and off white as follows:
Work A.9 (= 2 stitches) in the round over all stitches.
On the first 12 rounds use blueberry pie for the knitted stitches, on the last 4 rounds use off-white – see markers in diagram A.9.

REST OF SLEEVE:
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm.
Finish the sleeve with off-white. Work stocking stitch (the yarn overs from the English rib are knitted together with their respective stitches on the first round).
On the first round increase 8 stitches evenly spaced = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches.
On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 12-14-17-20-22-23 times = 52-54-58-60-62-64 stitches.
When the piece measures 38-37-36-34-33-32 cm from the division increase 11-12-11-12-10-11 stitches evenly spaced = 63-66-69-72-72-75 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1/ purl 2) for 4 cm, then cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.



ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands to the front pieces inside the 1 edge stitch using off-white.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= work from right side with off-white
= work from right side with blueberry pie
= work from wrong side with off-white
= work from wrong side with blueberry pie
= make 1 yarn over the right needle, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl
= yarn over and stitch knitted together
= yarn over and stitch purled together
= work 9 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the yarn over and stitch together but do not slip them from the needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the yarn over and stitch without slipping them from the needle *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, now slip the yarn over and stitch off the left needle = 9 stitches
= work 5 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together, but do not slip them from the needle, * make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over without slipping them from the needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, now slip the yarn over and stitch off the left needle = 5 stitches
= slip 1 stitch and yarn over as if to knit, knit together 2 stitches and 1 yarn over, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (2 stitches decreased)
= knit together 3 stitches and 2 yarn overs (2 stitches decreased)
= knit 5 stitches and 3 yarn overs together as follows (= a total of 8 stitches): Slip the first 3 stitches and 2 yarn-overs onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches and 1 yarn over together, pass the 5 slipped stitches (including yarn overs) from the right needle over the knitted together stitches (i.e. 4 stitches decreased)
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 213-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Lis Carlsen 16.07.2020 - 11:03:

Jeg mener der er en fejl i diagram A1. Hvis farverne skal svare til billedet, således at natur ligger øverst skal 1. Pind strikkes med natur og 2. Pind med blåbærtærte.

Eugenia 16.06.2020 - 23:26:

Meine Tochter findet das Muster total schön. Könnten sie die Jacke auch für Kinder umrechnen? Ich mache sie gerade in einer ErwachsenenGröße und die Anleitung lässt sich gut umsetzen! Top

Maria 18.05.2020 - 09:58:

Hallo, aus der Beschreibung ist nicht ersichtlich ob A2 in der Hohe gestrickt wird.

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 13:33:

Liebe Maria, A.2 wird einmal in der Höhe gestrickt, nach A.2 stricken Sie eine Hin-Reihe mit Zunahmen gleichmäßig verteilt und dann stricken Sie im Vollpatent. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine Giebe 01.04.2020 - 20:42:

Hallo! Bei A2 in der letzten Reihe muss es im Diagramm heißen "1 Masche rechts in Rück-Reihen".

Anneli Eriksson 28.03.2020 - 19:26:

Hej! Jag har försökt skriva ut den här beskrivningen, men jag får inte med diagrammen och symbolerna. Jag får bara ut texten. Hur ska jag göra?

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 13:33:

Hej Så konstigt att allt inte kommer med, kan det vara någon inställning på din skrivare som gör att allt inte kommer med? Kan du testa att endast markera diagrammet och skriva ut det annars kanske om det fungerar? Mvh DROPS Design

Esther Mettler 30.01.2020 - 13:44:

Wunderschöne Jacke! Ich freue mich auf die Anleitung und kann es kaum erwarten los zu stricken!!

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