DROPS / 210 / 28

College Days by DROPS Design

Knitted vest with round neck in DROPS Air. Sizes S – XXXL.

  • College Days / DROPS 210-28 - Knitted vest with round neck in DROPS Air. Sizes S – XXXL.
  • College Days / DROPS 210-28 - Knitted vest with round neck in DROPS Air. Sizes S – XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-246
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 10, fog

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 156 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 19.5. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternatively each 18th and 19th stitch and each 19th and 20th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. Front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth. Neck and sleeve edges are worked in the round with circular needle to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 156-172-184-200-220-240 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work stocking stitch, decreasing 8 stitches evenly spaced on the first round = 148-164-176-192-212-232 stitches – read DECREASE TIP above.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after the next 74-82-88-96-106-116 stitches. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when casting off for the armholes.
Work stocking stitch until the piece measures 28-29-30-33-34-35 cm from the cast-on edge.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the next round cast off for the armholes, starting 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches before the first marker; cast off 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), work as before until there are 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches left before the next marker, cast off the next 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches) and work to end of round. Front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth on the needle.

FRONT PIECE:
= 68-76-82-88-98-108 stitches.
Work stocking stitch and cast off for the armholes on each side at the beginning of each row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-3-4-6-9-12 times = 62-66-70-72-76-80 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 38-40-40-44-44-46 cm (there is approx. 10-10-12-12-14-14 cm left to finished length).
On the next row from the right side cast off for the neck as follows: Work the first 25-27-28-29-30-32 stitches, cast off the next 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches and work the last 25-27-28-29-30-32 stitches. The shoulders are finished separately; do not cut the strand – continue with the right shoulder, from the wrong side.

RIGHT SHOULDER ON FRONT PIECE:
= 25-27-28-29-30-32 stitches.
Work stocking stitch, starting from the wrong side, and cast off stitches for the neck at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 17-19-20-21-22-24 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-56-58-60 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off and cut the strand.

LEFT SHOULDER ON FRONT PIECE:
= 25-27-28-29-30-32 stitches.
Work stocking stitch, starting from the right side and cast off stitches for the neck at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 4 times = 17-19-20-21-22-24 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-56-58-60 cm from the cast-on edge (match to the right shoulder). Cast off and cut the strand.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-76-82-88-98-108 stitches.
Work stocking stitch and cast off stitches for the armholes on each side at the beginning of each row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-3-4-6-9-12 times = 62-66-70-72-76-80 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 44-46-48-52-54-56 cm (there is approx. 4 cm left to finished length).
On the next row from the right side, cast off for the neck as follows: Work the first 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches, cast off the next 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches and work the last 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches. The shoulders are finished separately; do not cut the strand – continue with the left shoulder from the wrong side.

LEFT SHOULDER ON BACK PIECE:
= 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches.
Work stocking stitch, starting from the wrong side and cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row from the right side = 17-19-20-21-22-24 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-56-58-60 cm from the cast-on edge; match the front piece. Cast off and cut the strand.

RIGHT SHOULDER ON BACK PIECE:
= 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches.
Work stocking stitch, starting from the right side and cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side = 17-19-20-21-22-24 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-56-58-60 cm from the cast-on edge; match to the front piece. Cast off and cut the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches.

NECK:
Start from the right side at one of the shoulder seams. Using circular needle size 4.5 mm knit up approx. 76 to 92 stitches inside the 1 stitch around the whole neck-line (number must be divisible by 4). Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLES:
Start from the right side where the piece was divided for the armhole. Using circular needle size 4.5 mm knit up approx. 84 to 124 stitches around the armhole (number must be divisible by 4). Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Work an edge around the other armhole in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (108)

country flag Laura 12.09.2021 - 14:12:

Buongiorno, cosa succede se non faccio le diminuzioni nel primo giro a maglia rasata dopo il bordo a coste? Grazie!

user icon DROPS Design 12.09.2021 kl. 15:57:

Buongiorno Laura, le diminuzioni vengono fatte perchè le coste solitamente contraggono il lavoro per cui i bordi a coste si lavorano solitamente su un numero di maglie maggiore del resto del capo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lea Jørgensen 07.09.2021 - 00:39:

Hej. Jeg synes, at der er et stort "spring" i ca. antallet af masker i ærmegab og halskant . Ærme: ca 84 -124 masker, står der. Hvad og hvordan skal jeg vælge det rette antal? Mvh Lea

user icon DROPS Design 07.09.2021 kl. 10:02:

Hej Lea. Det kommer litt an på vilken storlek du gör. De mindre storlekarna får ett mindre antal maskor och de större ett större antal. Se gärna videon Strik masker op langs siden. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag AH 21.07.2021 - 11:52:

Can I change the yarn to brushed alpaca silk?

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2021 kl. 14:27:

Dear AH, sure you can since Brushed Alpaca Silk and Air belong to the same yarn group C , but remember that since yarns have different texture, result will be different. Read more about yarn alternatives here and /or use the yarn converter to get the new amount. Happy knitting!

country flag Martinez 20.07.2021 - 11:42:

Comment pouvez-vous dire que la laine est lavable. J.ai lavé deux des pulls que j’ai tricoté au programme soie à 30 et ils sont à la poubelle

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2021 kl. 15:15:

Bonjour Mme Martinez, toutes nos laines sont lavables, mais seules les laines "Superwash" se lavent en machine, DROPS Sky n'est pas superwash et doit se laver à la main - cf nuancier & étiquette et d'autres conseils sur l'entretien de vos lainages ici. Votre magasin saura également vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

country flag Martínez Gloria 20.07.2021 - 11:40:

Bonjour, j’ai tricoté 4 fois ce modèle avec la laine recommandée, j’en ai lavé deux au programme soie en machine qui est à Max 30 degré comme écrit sur étiquette et la laine est toute feutrée et ils ont rétrécis un maximum. Ne dites pas que cette laine est lavable

country flag Tina 11.06.2021 - 10:47:

Liebes Team, Ich weiß leider nicht wie ich anfange die Maschen für die Hals oder Armausschnitt aufzunehmen: innerhalb 1 Masche aus dem ganzen Halsausschnitt auffassen (die Maschenzahl muss durch 4 teilbar sein). - Gibt es hier weitere Erklärungen oder ein Video? Viele Grüße Tina

user icon DROPS Design 11.06.2021 kl. 11:07:

Liebe Tina, selbstverständlich, dieses Video zeigt, wie man Maschen seitlich auffasst und dieses Video, wie man Maschen in die abgekettenen Maschen auffasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Tone Haugen Nilsen 20.05.2021 - 14:42:

Mønsteret var helt fantastisk å følge. Og jeg har strikket en flott vest til barnebarnet mitt. Det var faktisk hun som sendte meg linken og spurte om jeg ville strikke den til henne. Nå er den ferdig og jeg vet hun blir like fornøyd som meg.

country flag Kate 10.05.2021 - 00:44:

Hello, I have a question about changing from knitting on circular needles, in the round to knitting back and forth. I have finished the body section of pattern, and am now trying to start the front piece. Do I need a new set of regular needles to knit back and forth, or can I continue on the same circular needles, but now knitting back and forth? Many thanks

user icon DROPS Design 10.05.2021 kl. 01:46:

Dear Kate, you do not necessarily need another (pair) of needles, you can continue back and forth with the one you already using. However, it might help, if you out the stitches you don't use, on a spare circular, or stitch order, or a piece of yarn, so it might be more comfortable to knit back and forth only with half of the stitches. Happy Knitting!

country flag Nicoletta 23.04.2021 - 22:17:

Buonasera, sto cominciando a lavorare il davanti. C'è scritto di intrecciare 2 maglie e poi 1 maglia. Sto lavorando il modello più piccolo... Significa che lavoro 3 maglie e ne tiro giù due insieme, poi ne lavoro una e e ne tiro giù una? Lo faccio per una volta ai due lati? Grazie non vorrei sbagliare

user icon DROPS Design 24.04.2021 kl. 22:13:

Buonasera Nicoletta, deve intrecciare 2 maglie all'inizio di ogni ferro a ogni lato e poi 1 maglia 1 volta sempre all'inizio del ferro a ogni lato. Buon lavoro!

country flag Annhild 14.04.2021 - 13:55:

Jeg har strikket vest 210-28. den ble fin, men opplevde at vrangborden bretter seg opp. Tror det kommer av at i oppskriften står det at man skal felle masker når man begynner på rettstrikkingen. Normalt øker man mellom vr. bord og rettstrikkingen på bolen.

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