DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.40£. Read more.

Lavender Breeze

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib, raglan and v-neck. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 213-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-883
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 09, light lavender

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, Cedar NO 511: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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ENGLISH RIB STITCH (on bands):
From right side: Knit 1 under the next stitch.
From wrong side: Purl the stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TO RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the purled stitch with marker (= raglan-stitch), i.e. increase in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the raglan-stitch. Increase 2 stitches on each side of all raglan-stitches (= 16 stitches increased on an increase-row). All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch by working 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them onto the right needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in English rib (A.1/A.2) but be aware that on the first row after the increase the one increased stitch is knitted without a yarn over as there is no yarn over for this stitch.

INCREASE TO V-NECK:
Increase to v-neck in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the bands on each side towards mid front. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over in the same way as described for increasing to raglan.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under the sleeves):
Decrease in stitches closest to the purled stitches with markers mid under the sleeve and in the sides of the body.
All decreases are worked on a row/round where the knitted stitches and yarn overs are knitted together!
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start after the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purled + knitted stitch and yarn over), then pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was slipped back onto the left needle, and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the left band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side at the beginning of the row as follows: Work the first 3 stitches as before, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and then continue as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 2 cm after the last increase for v-neck.
Then work the next 3-3-4-4-4-4 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-8-8 cm between each one.
NOTE: If the knitting tension is not correct in height this will affect the positioning of the buttonholes. Measure the piece when the v-neck is finished and adjust the position of the 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes if necessary.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First you work 2 loose neck-edges (one for each front piece). These are placed on the circular needle and stitches are cast on for the neck as described in the text (the neck-edges are later sewn together mid-back and sewn to the neck-line at the back).
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. AT THE SAME TIME you increase to v-neck and raglan. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
NOTE: All stitch counts given when working English rib are without the yarn overs; these are counted together with their respective stitches as 1 stitch.

RIGHT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 1, 1 ENGLISH RIB STITCH – read description above, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the wrong side). Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.

LEFT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 1.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the right side).
Place these 7 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm, do not cut the strand but cast on 51-53-59-59-59-59 new stitches on the needle (= sleeves and back piece) and then work the 7 stitches from the right neck-edge as before = 65-67-73-73-73-73 stitches on the needle. The outermost 7 stitches on each side are now called the band stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row. Then work the yoke as described below; the yoke is measured from the marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the first row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the 7 band stitches as before, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches); these markers are used when increasing to raglan.
Count 8 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 23-25-27-27-27-31 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch). There are 8 stitches left for the front piece after the last marker.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the 7 band stitches as before, A.1 until there are 8 stitches left on the row (= 25-26-29-29-29-29 repeats of 2 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Continue this pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME increase to RAGLAN and V-NECK as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

RAGLAN:
When you have worked 6-6-6-6-4-4 rows of A.1/A.2 (and the next row is to be worked from the right side), increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 16 stitches increased on this increase-row).
Increase like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd row with visible English rib stitches in height) a total of 8-9-10-11-13-14 times.

V-NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME when you increase to raglan the 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-5th-5th time, increase to the V-NECK on each side as well – read description above. Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times (when the increases to v-neck are finished there are 1-2-3-4-3-3 increases left to raglan).

When all the increases to raglan and v-neck are finished there are 213-231-257-273-305-325 stitches on the needle.
Continue A.1/A.2 back and forth with 7 band stitches on each side as before - remember BUTTONHOLES on left band - read explanation above.
When the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marker in the neck (the piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the shoulder), divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows from the wrong side:
Work 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 55-61-67-71-79-87 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 133-143-157-165-181-197 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with English rib and 7 band stitches on each side as before.

DECREASE IN SIDES:
When the piece measures 8 cm from the division, decrease on each front piece by decreasing 2 stitches in the English rib stitch closest to the purled stitch with the marker on each side – read DECREASE TIP; i.e. on the left front piece (when the garment is worn) decrease 2 stitches towards the right and on the right front piece decrease 2 stitches towards the left = 129-139-153-161-177-193 stitches.
When the piece measures 18 cm from the division, decrease in the same way on the back piece (i.e. decrease 2 stitches towards the left at the beginning and 2 stitches towards the right at the end of the back piece) = 125-135-149-157-173-189 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm from the division in all sizes (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib back and forth (= knit 1 / purl 1) with 7 band stitches on each side as before – on the first row the yarn-overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-54-60-64-72-74 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work A.3 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 8 (i.e. on the 4th round of visible English rib stitches), decrease 4 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP (decrease 2 stitches towards the left after the stitch with the marker and decrease 2 stitches towards the right before the stitch with the marker).
Decrease like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th round (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round of visible English rib stitches) a total of 3-3-4-5-5-5 times = 38-42-44-44-52-54 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-40-38-37-36-35 cm from the division (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) – on the first round the yarn overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-40-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck-edge together mid back with the seam turning inwards. Stretch the neck-edge slightly and sew it to the neck-line at the back. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.11.2020
Correction:
Diagram A.3 added to explain English rib worked in the round on sleeves.

Correction:
Placement of first buttonhole updated.
Updated online: 03.05.2021
Correction: Number of buttons and placement of buttonholes.
Updated online: 29.03.2022
V-NECK:... Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times ...

Diagram

symbols = make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl
symbols = knit yarn over and slipped stitch together
symbols = purl yarn over and slipped stitch together
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (97)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Vorrei sapere se esiste un video per le diminuzioni sotto la manica di un cardigan topdown lavorato a maglia inglese. Grazie

29.02.2024 - 19:58

country flag Hermine wrote:

Dus knoopsgaten links en de knopen ook links? Dat gaat moeilijk zijn om te sluiten vrees ik….. Leuke trui overigens !👌

01.02.2024 - 22:21

country flag Lena wrote:

Ich glaube sie haben mich falsch verstanden ich meinte die Raglanmasche zwischen den Raglanzunahmen. Wird sie einfach links gestrickt oder so wie vorher im Muster mit Umschlag und links abgehoben?

27.11.2023 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lena, sorry fürs Misverständnis, die Maschen mit den Markierungen / die Raglanmasdchen werden wie die 2. Masche in A.1 gestrickt, dh bei den Rückreihen wird diese Masche rechts zusammen mit dem Umschlag gestrickt (sieht bei der Vorderseite wie eine linke Masche aus). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2023 - 08:30

country flag Lena wrote:

Hallo ich versuche diese schöne Strickjacke zu stricken und frage mich gerade ob die Raglanmasche einfach links gestrickt wird oder muss sie wie im Muster mit Umschlg und links abgehoben werden ? Liebe Grüße Lena

27.11.2023 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lena, bei den Blenden gibt es keine extra Randmaschen, stricken Sie die 7 Maschen einfach wie beschrieben, dann bei der Passe stricken Sie die 7 BlendenMaschen wie zuvor (die 1. und die letzte von diesen 7 Maschen wird krausrechts gestrickt: rechts bei den Hin- sowie bein den Rückreihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.11.2023 - 15:59

country flag Lenka wrote:

Dobrý den, chtěla bych se zeptat, jak mam dosáhnout počtu 257 ok (vel. M)? Když přidávám podle návodu, tak nahodim sice 16 nových ok v řadě, ale ve skutečnosti jich mam 8, protože je spletám podle vzoru A1, takže 2 oka stejně spletu. Asi jsem nepochopila ten návod přidávání u raglanu :( stejně tak moc nechápu, kde mam ty oka přidávat, protože když se snažím je přidat v hladkém oku s nahozenim u všech značek, tak mi potom nevychází vzor A1. Moc děkuju za radu.

14.10.2023 - 18:32

country flag ALLEMAND GISELE wrote:

Bonjour, je suis désespérée! sur le point de laisser tomber mon ouvrage! j'ai fais toutes mes augmentations raglan et encolure 5 x 2 avec (40 augmentations) pour l'encolure et 8 x 2 pour les raglans (64 augmentations) et je me retrouve avec 169 mailles! taille xs . j'ai bien monté 51 mailles au début entre les deux bordures d'encolure de 7 mailles.

04.10.2022 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Allemand, vous démarrez l'empiècement avec 65 mailles, vous devez augmenter pour le raglan 8 fois 16 mailles (= 2 m avant chaque marqueur + 2 m après chaque marqueur x 4 marqueurs = 16 m x 8 = 128 mailles au total = ) et vous augmentez 5 fois 2 mailles pour l'encolure V (= 10 m x 2 devants = 20 m), vous devez ainsi avoir: 65+128+20= 213 mailles. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

04.10.2022 - 16:28

country flag Catalina wrote:

Thank you!

25.09.2022 - 20:34

country flag Catalina Nicoleta Mocanu wrote:

HELLO! I don't understand how to knit the sleeve once the 45 stitches have been taken up and pick up the 5 new ones. Would I have to start with row 2 of A3? When I start with the first row I get the stitches backwards. Thanks.

25.09.2022 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catalina, you have divided in the yoke for the body and sleeves on the wrong side. So you should work the first row of A.3 on the right side to start the sleeves. Since the sleeves are worked in the round, you always work on the right side of the garment. Happy knitting!

25.09.2022 - 20:07

country flag Anoulack wrote:

Bonjour, est-il possible de me répondre car je suis coincée sur cette étape, je tricote la taille M et j ai un doute sur le début de l’augmentation de l’encolure. Se fait elle pas a partir de là 4ème augmentation du Raglan au lieu de 2? Merci Anoulack

18.04.2022 - 22:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjout Anoulack, vous trouverez la réponse à votre question ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 11:50

country flag Anoulack wrote:

Bonjour, l’augmentation de l’encolure ne se fait elle pas a partir de là 4ème augmentation 4 du Raglan pour une taille M (a la place de 2)? Merci

09.04.2022 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anoulack, la 1ère augmentation pour l'encolure se fait en taille M et en taille L en même temps que la 2ème augmentation des raglans. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 07:37