Lavender Breeze by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with English rib, raglan and v-neck. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 213-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-883
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 09, light lavender
KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, Cedar NO 511: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-883
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 4010, light lavender
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-100-100-125-125-125 g colour 09, light lavender
KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 36 rows in height with English rib and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for English rib.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS, Cedar NO 511: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items.
-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
You might also like...
NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
ENGLISH RIB STITCH (on bands):
From right side: Knit 1 under the next stitch.
From wrong side: Purl the stitch.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
INCREASE TO RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the purled stitch with marker (= raglan-stitch), i.e. increase in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the raglan-stitch. Increase 2 stitches on each side of all raglan-stitches (= 16 stitches increased on an increase-row). All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch by working 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them onto the right needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in English rib (A.1/A.2) but be aware that on the first row after the increase the one increased stitch is knitted without a yarn over as there is no yarn over for this stitch.
INCREASE TO V-NECK:
Increase to v-neck in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the bands on each side towards mid front. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over in the same way as described for increasing to raglan.
DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under the sleeves):
Decrease in stitches closest to the purled stitches with markers mid under the sleeve and in the sides of the body.
All decreases are worked on a row/round where the knitted stitches and yarn overs are knitted together!
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start after the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purled + knitted stitch and yarn over), then pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was slipped back onto the left needle, and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the left band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side at the beginning of the row as follows: Work the first 3 stitches as before, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and then continue as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 2 cm after the last increase for v-neck.
Then work the next 3-3-4-4-4-4 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-8-8 cm between each one.
NOTE: If the knitting tension is not correct in height this will affect the positioning of the buttonholes. Measure the piece when the v-neck is finished and adjust the position of the 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes if necessary.
CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First you work 2 loose neck-edges (one for each front piece). These are placed on the circular needle and stitches are cast on for the neck as described in the text (the neck-edges are later sewn together mid-back and sewn to the neck-line at the back).
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. AT THE SAME TIME you increase to v-neck and raglan. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
NOTE: All stitch counts given when working English rib are without the yarn overs; these are counted together with their respective stitches as 1 stitch.
RIGHT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 1, 1 ENGLISH RIB STITCH – read description above, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the wrong side). Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
LEFT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 1.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the right side).
Place these 7 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm, do not cut the strand but cast on 51-53-59-59-59-59 new stitches on the needle (= sleeves and back piece) and then work the 7 stitches from the right neck-edge as before = 65-67-73-73-73-73 stitches on the needle. The outermost 7 stitches on each side are now called the band stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row. Then work the yoke as described below; the yoke is measured from the marker.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the first row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the 7 band stitches as before, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches); these markers are used when increasing to raglan.
Count 8 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 23-25-27-27-27-31 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch). There are 8 stitches left for the front piece after the last marker.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the 7 band stitches as before, A.1 until there are 8 stitches left on the row (= 25-26-29-29-29-29 repeats of 2 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Continue this pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME increase to RAGLAN and V-NECK as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
RAGLAN:
When you have worked 6-6-6-6-4-4 rows of A.1/A.2 (and the next row is to be worked from the right side), increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 16 stitches increased on this increase-row).
Increase like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd row with visible English rib stitches in height) a total of 8-9-10-11-13-14 times.
V-NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME when you increase to raglan the 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-5th-5th time, increase to the V-NECK on each side as well – read description above. Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times (when the increases to v-neck are finished there are 1-2-3-4-3-3 increases left to raglan).
When all the increases to raglan and v-neck are finished there are 213-231-257-273-305-325 stitches on the needle.
Continue A.1/A.2 back and forth with 7 band stitches on each side as before - remember BUTTONHOLES on left band - read explanation above.
When the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marker in the neck (the piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the shoulder), divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows from the wrong side:
Work 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 55-61-67-71-79-87 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 133-143-157-165-181-197 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with English rib and 7 band stitches on each side as before.
DECREASE IN SIDES:
When the piece measures 8 cm from the division, decrease on each front piece by decreasing 2 stitches in the English rib stitch closest to the purled stitch with the marker on each side – read DECREASE TIP; i.e. on the left front piece (when the garment is worn) decrease 2 stitches towards the right and on the right front piece decrease 2 stitches towards the left = 129-139-153-161-177-193 stitches.
When the piece measures 18 cm from the division, decrease in the same way on the back piece (i.e. decrease 2 stitches towards the left at the beginning and 2 stitches towards the right at the end of the back piece) = 125-135-149-157-173-189 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm from the division in all sizes (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib back and forth (= knit 1 / purl 1) with 7 band stitches on each side as before – on the first row the yarn-overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-54-60-64-72-74 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work A.3 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 8 (i.e. on the 4th round of visible English rib stitches), decrease 4 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP (decrease 2 stitches towards the left after the stitch with the marker and decrease 2 stitches towards the right before the stitch with the marker).
Decrease like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th round (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round of visible English rib stitches) a total of 3-3-4-5-5-5 times = 38-42-44-44-52-54 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-40-38-37-36-35 cm from the division (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) – on the first round the yarn overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-40-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck-edge together mid back with the seam turning inwards. Stretch the neck-edge slightly and sew it to the neck-line at the back. Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
ENGLISH RIB STITCH (on bands):
From right side: Knit 1 under the next stitch.
From wrong side: Purl the stitch.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
INCREASE TO RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the purled stitch with marker (= raglan-stitch), i.e. increase in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the raglan-stitch. Increase 2 stitches on each side of all raglan-stitches (= 16 stitches increased on an increase-row). All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch by working 3 stitches in the stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit together the stitch and yarn over but do not slip them onto the right needle, make 1 yarn over the right needle and knit together the stitch and yarn over 1 more time (= 2 stitches increased). Then work the new stitches in English rib (A.1/A.2) but be aware that on the first row after the increase the one increased stitch is knitted without a yarn over as there is no yarn over for this stitch.
INCREASE TO V-NECK:
Increase to v-neck in the knitted stitch and yarn over closest to the bands on each side towards mid front. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches in the knitted stitch and yarn over in the same way as described for increasing to raglan.
DECREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under the sleeves):
Decrease in stitches closest to the purled stitches with markers mid under the sleeve and in the sides of the body.
All decreases are worked on a row/round where the knitted stitches and yarn overs are knitted together!
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE LEFT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start after the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, knit the next 2 stitches together (i.e. 1 purled + knitted stitch and yarn over), then pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES TOWARDS THE RIGHT AS FOLLOWS (i.e. start 3 stitches + 2 yarn overs before the purled stitch with marker): Slip the first knitted stitch and yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit together, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch and yarn-over over the purled stitch, slip the stitch back onto the left needle, pass the stitch and yarn-over over the stitch which was slipped back onto the left needle, and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the left band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side at the beginning of the row as follows: Work the first 3 stitches as before, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and then continue as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 2 cm after the last increase for v-neck.
Then work the next 3-3-4-4-4-4 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-8-8 cm between each one.
NOTE: If the knitting tension is not correct in height this will affect the positioning of the buttonholes. Measure the piece when the v-neck is finished and adjust the position of the 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes if necessary.
CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First you work 2 loose neck-edges (one for each front piece). These are placed on the circular needle and stitches are cast on for the neck as described in the text (the neck-edges are later sewn together mid-back and sewn to the neck-line at the back).
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. AT THE SAME TIME you increase to v-neck and raglan. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
NOTE: All stitch counts given when working English rib are without the yarn overs; these are counted together with their respective stitches as 1 stitch.
RIGHT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 1, 1 ENGLISH RIB STITCH – read description above, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the wrong side). Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.
LEFT NECK-EDGE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 2, 1 English rib stitch, knit 1.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the neck-edge measures approx. 13-13-13-16-16-16 cm (adjust after a row from the right side).
Place these 7 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm, do not cut the strand but cast on 51-53-59-59-59-59 new stitches on the needle (= sleeves and back piece) and then work the 7 stitches from the right neck-edge as before = 65-67-73-73-73-73 stitches on the needle. The outermost 7 stitches on each side are now called the band stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row. Then work the yoke as described below; the yoke is measured from the marker.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the first row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the 7 band stitches as before, * make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches); these markers are used when increasing to raglan.
Count 8 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 23-25-27-27-27-31 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch), count 11-11-13-13-13-11 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch (= raglan-stitch). There are 8 stitches left for the front piece after the last marker.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the 7 band stitches as before, A.1 until there are 8 stitches left on the row (= 25-26-29-29-29-29 repeats of 2 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with 7 band stitches as before.
Continue this pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME increase to RAGLAN and V-NECK as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
RAGLAN:
When you have worked 6-6-6-6-4-4 rows of A.1/A.2 (and the next row is to be worked from the right side), increase to RAGLAN – read description above (= 16 stitches increased on this increase-row).
Increase like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd row with visible English rib stitches in height) a total of 8-9-10-11-13-14 times.
V-NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME when you increase to raglan the 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-5th-5th time, increase to the V-NECK on each side as well – read description above. Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times (when the increases to v-neck are finished there are 1-2-3-4-3-3 increases left to raglan).
When all the increases to raglan and v-neck are finished there are 213-231-257-273-305-325 stitches on the needle.
Continue A.1/A.2 back and forth with 7 band stitches on each side as before - remember BUTTONHOLES on left band - read explanation above.
When the piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm from the marker in the neck (the piece measures approx. 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from the shoulder), divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows from the wrong side:
Work 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work 55-61-67-71-79-87 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 5 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 133-143-157-165-181-197 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when decreasing in the sides.
Continue back and forth with English rib and 7 band stitches on each side as before.
DECREASE IN SIDES:
When the piece measures 8 cm from the division, decrease on each front piece by decreasing 2 stitches in the English rib stitch closest to the purled stitch with the marker on each side – read DECREASE TIP; i.e. on the left front piece (when the garment is worn) decrease 2 stitches towards the right and on the right front piece decrease 2 stitches towards the left = 129-139-153-161-177-193 stitches.
When the piece measures 18 cm from the division, decrease in the same way on the back piece (i.e. decrease 2 stitches towards the left at the beginning and 2 stitches towards the right at the end of the back piece) = 125-135-149-157-173-189 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm from the division in all sizes (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib back and forth (= knit 1 / purl 1) with 7 band stitches on each side as before – on the first row the yarn-overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 45-49-55-59-67-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles or short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50-54-60-64-72-74 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch of the 5 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work A.3 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 8 (i.e. on the 4th round of visible English rib stitches), decrease 4 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP (decrease 2 stitches towards the left after the stitch with the marker and decrease 2 stitches towards the right before the stitch with the marker).
Decrease like this every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th round (i.e. every 4th-4th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round of visible English rib stitches) a total of 3-3-4-5-5-5 times = 38-42-44-44-52-54 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-40-38-37-36-35 cm from the division (there is 4 cm left to finished length. You can try the garment on a work to the desired length).
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) – on the first round the yarn overs are knitted together with the knitted stitches. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-40-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck-edge together mid back with the seam turning inwards. Stretch the neck-edge slightly and sew it to the neck-line at the back. Sew the buttons onto the left band.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 03.11.2020
Correction:
Diagram A.3 added to explain English rib worked in the round on sleeves.
Correction:
Placement of first buttonhole updated.
Correction:
Diagram A.3 added to explain English rib worked in the round on sleeves.
Correction:
Placement of first buttonhole updated.
Updated online: 03.05.2021
Correction: Number of buttons and placement of buttonholes.
Correction: Number of buttons and placement of buttonholes.
Updated online: 29.03.2022
V-NECK:... Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times ...
V-NECK:... Increase to v-neck on every 8th-8th-8th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 5-5-6-6-6-7 times ...
Diagram
|
= make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl |
|
= knit yarn over and slipped stitch together |
|
= purl yarn over and slipped stitch together |
© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 293 catalogues and 10972 patterns - 10972 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, je suis désespérée! sur le point de laisser tomber mon ouvrage! j'ai fais toutes mes augmentations raglan et encolure 5 x 2 avec (40 augmentations) pour l'encolure et 8 x 2 pour les raglans (64 augmentations) et je me retrouve avec 169 mailles! taille xs . j'ai bien monté 51 mailles au début entre les deux bordures d'encolure de 7 mailles.
04.10.2022 - 15:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Allemand, vous démarrez l'empiècement avec 65 mailles, vous devez augmenter pour le raglan 8 fois 16 mailles (= 2 m avant chaque marqueur + 2 m après chaque marqueur x 4 marqueurs = 16 m x 8 = 128 mailles au total = ) et vous augmentez 5 fois 2 mailles pour l'encolure V (= 10 m x 2 devants = 20 m), vous devez ainsi avoir: 65+128+20= 213 mailles. En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!
04.10.2022 kl. 16:28Thank you!
25.09.2022 - 20:34HELLO! I don't understand how to knit the sleeve once the 45 stitches have been taken up and pick up the 5 new ones. Would I have to start with row 2 of A3? When I start with the first row I get the stitches backwards. Thanks.
25.09.2022 - 18:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Catalina, you have divided in the yoke for the body and sleeves on the wrong side. So you should work the first row of A.3 on the right side to start the sleeves. Since the sleeves are worked in the round, you always work on the right side of the garment. Happy knitting!
25.09.2022 kl. 20:07Bonjour, est-il possible de me répondre car je suis coincée sur cette étape, je tricote la taille M et j ai un doute sur le début de l’augmentation de l’encolure. Se fait elle pas a partir de là 4ème augmentation du Raglan au lieu de 2? Merci Anoulack
18.04.2022 - 22:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjout Anoulack, vous trouverez la réponse à votre question ci-dessous. Bon tricot!
19.04.2022 kl. 11:50Bonjour, l’augmentation de l’encolure ne se fait elle pas a partir de là 4ème augmentation 4 du Raglan pour une taille M (a la place de 2)? Merci
09.04.2022 - 10:36DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Anoulack, la 1ère augmentation pour l'encolure se fait en taille M et en taille L en même temps que la 2ème augmentation des raglans. Bon tricot!
19.04.2022 kl. 07:37Dear Drops we increase for the v-neck in every second row?
23.03.2022 - 09:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maria, yes, you only increase when working on the right side, so you increase every second row. Happy knitting!
26.03.2022 kl. 19:50Guten Tag, bei dem Abschnitt Rumpfteil soll man 1 Markierer in den mittleren 5 Maschen setzen. Verstehe nicht genau wie das gehen soll, weil es ja ungerade ist. Außerdem verstehe ich nicht bei "Abnahme an den Seiten", da steht ab der Teilung 8cm messen. Ab welcher Teilung?
22.01.2022 - 11:47DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Glas, Rumpfteil wird von der Teilung am Ende der Passe gemessen; die Markierung setzen Sie in die mittleren der 5 angeschlagten Maschen auf beiden Seiten und dann werden Sie abnehmen, wie unter ABNAHMETIPP beschrieben ist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
24.01.2022 kl. 08:39Ich habe noch eine Frage zu den Zunahmen. Ich stricke Größe S, bei dem Teil Raglan soll ich also ab der 6. Reihe anfangen zuzunehmen, ich verstehe nicht was gemeint wird ich soll in jeder 8. Reihe bzw in jeder 4. Reihe zunehmen. Ich weiß nicht wieso einmal in jeder 8. Steht und aufeinmal soll ich doch auch in jeder 4. Zunehmen.
21.01.2022 - 15:37DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Duhm, wenn Man Patentmuster strickt, braucht man 2 Reihen um eine "Patent-Masche" zu bilden, so wenn Sie 8 Reihen stricken, dann sehen Sie nur 2 Rechte-Patent-Maschen. Vielleicht kann Ihnen dieses Video helfen?
21.01.2022 kl. 16:12Da es 2 Maschenproben gibt und meine sich in der Nadelstärke bei beiden Abweichen, würde ich gerne wissen für welchen Teil man welche Maschenprobe machen sollte, damit ich weis wo ich welche Nadelstärke brauche
21.01.2022 - 15:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Duhm, die grösseren Nadeln werden für beiden Maschenprobe benutzt, dh beiden bei uns mit Nadeln Nr 5 gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
21.01.2022 kl. 16:10Hello. Thank you for your previous reply and the video. It helped, but now I need to insert the four markers for the yoke and the stitch count is off. I'm knitting the smallest size and I need to insert a marker after 8, then 11, then 23, then 11 and finally 8 stitches. This gives me a count of 61 and I only have 51 (without counting yarn overs) between the band stitches. How is this possible? Thank you!
19.12.2021 - 11:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mel, you should have 65 sts (= 7 front band sts, 51 new sts cast on between front bands and 7 sts front band sts) and insert markers as follows: 8 sts, 1 st with a marker, 11 sts, 1 st with a marker, 23 sts, 1 st with a marker, 11 sts, 1 st with a marker, 8 sts = 8+1+11+1+23+1+11+1+8=65 sts. Happy knitting!
20.12.2021 kl. 07:41