DROPS / 210 / 36

Grey Pearl by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: bottom up, jumpers,
  • Grey Pearl / DROPS 210-36 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Grey Pearl / DROPS 210-36 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Grey Pearl / DROPS 210-36 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-247
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 03, pearl grey

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 60 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.30 € /50g
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.30 € /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 89 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 13) = 6.8. 
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 5th and 6th stitch and each 6th and 7th stitch (approx.).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The jumper is worked back and forth in 2 parts which are sewn together to finish. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 89-97-103-113-125-137 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work as follows – from the right side: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, *knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the piece measures 8 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 13-15-15-17-19-21 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 76-82-88-96-106-116 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, cast off for the armholes on both sides at the beginning of each row as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-3 times = 64-70-74-82-92-100 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm. Now cast off the middle 26-26-28-30-32-34 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then cast off at the beginning of next row from the neck as follows: 1 stitch 1 time = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for the back piece until the piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm. Now place the middle 20-20-22-24-26-28 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 18-21-22-25-29-32 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, then cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked bottom up, in the round, with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The piece is then divided and worked back and forth for the sleeve cap.

Cast on 46-48-50-52-52-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 8 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and continue with stocking stitch. On the first round decrease 8-8-8-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve. Continue with stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10-10-10-10-12-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes. Increase like this 3½-3½-3-3-2-2 cm a total of 11-12-13-13-15-15 times = 60-64-68-70-74-76 stitches. When the sleeve measures 50-49-49-48-45-44 cm, cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread (= 6 stitches cast off mid under the sleeve), then continue working back and forth. Cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on both sides as follows: 2 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, then cast off the remaining stitches. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and sew the side seams, inside the 1 edge stitch and until there is 8 cm left at the bottom = split.

NECK:
Knit up approx. 92-106 stitches with circular needle size 4,5 mm around the neck (including the stitches on the thread and the number divisible by 2). Work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 9 cm. Then cast off. Fold the rib at the top to the wrong side and fasten down. To avoid the neck being tight and turning outwards, make sure the seam is elastic.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Lotte 06.05.2021 - 17:11:

Deze trui wil ik graag breien met Brushed Alpaca Silk. Het mooiste wordt het met dit garen als ik naald 4.5 gebruik (in plaats van de aangeraden naald 5). Alleen kom ik dan net niet aan de 10 cm breedte (ik brei redelijk los dus) . Omdat mijn maat XS is, kan ik dan maat S aanhouden?

country flag Lotte 06.05.2021 - 17:06:

Ik snap niet wat hier mee bedoelt wordt: " Om te voorkomen dat de hals te strak wordt en naar buiten gaat staan, zorg ervoor dat de naad elastisch is" Hoe zorg je ervoor dat de naad elastisch is? wordt daarmee bedoelt dat je losjes afkant? Of wordt er iets anders mee bedoelt?

country flag Anna Eriksson 05.05.2021 - 07:58:

Hej! Jag är nybörjare och använder strumpstickor för ärmarna. Jag förstår inte det sista med avmaskningen, vart ska de 6 maskorna maskas av och vart ska resterande, efter det, maskas av? Alltså detta: Maska av till ärmkulle i början av varje varv i varje sida så här: 2 maskor 1 gång, 3 maskor 1 gång, sedan maskas de resterande maskorna av. Exakt var ska jag maska av? Tack! Anna

user icon DROPS Design 05.05.2021 kl. 11:07:

Hej Anna. Du satte en markör i början av varvet och det är där du ska maska av 6 maskor (3 maskor på varje sida av markören). Efter det börjar du sticka fram och tillbaka istället för runt. Sedan maskar du av i början av varje varv (alltså så att du avmaskar på varje sida av där du maskade av de 6 maskorna). Maska av 2 maskor 1 gång på varje sida och sedan 3 maskor 1 gång på varje sida. Hoppas det hjälper. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Anna 10.04.2021 - 17:26:

Hej! jag är väldigt förvirrad över detta mönster. Man ska sticka med rundstickor även fast man inte stickar runt? Då borde man ju använda andra stickor än rundsticka? Jag funderar om man kan sticka först bakstycket resår och flytta över till en rundsticka, sedan sticka framstyckets resår och flytta över det till samma rundsticka. Sedan stickar man runt tills ärmhålen då man flyttar över dem till olika stickor och stickar enligt mönstret? Dvs. om man hellre vill sticka runt?

user icon DROPS Design 13.04.2021 kl. 07:37:

Hej Anna. Vi har valt att använda rundsticka när man stickar fram och tillbaka för att vara säker på att få plats med alla maskor, men det går fint att använda parstickor också. Det går helt fint att sticka arbetet runt som du skriver om du hellre vill det. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Michelle 08.04.2021 - 19:27:

Je ne comprends pas au niveau des emmanchures rabattre au début de chaque côté : 1-1-1-1-1-1 fois 3 mailles; 1 -1-1-1-1-1- fois 2mailles et 1-1-2-2-2-2-3fois une maille ? merci pour votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2021 kl. 07:32:

Bonjour Michelle, tricotez 1 rang en rabattant les 3 premières mailles, tournez, rabattez les 3 premières mailles et terminez ce rang. Tournez et rabattez les 2 premières mailles, terminez le rang, tournez, rabattez les 2 premières mailles et terminez le rang. Tournez, rabattez la première maille, terminez le rang, tournez, rabattez la première maille, terminez le rang - tricotez les 2 derniers rangs 1-1-2-2-2-3 fois au total selon la taille. Bon tricot!

country flag Mia 08.04.2021 - 10:36:

Hej, Hur ökar man detta när man gör ärmarna: Öka med 3½-3½-3-3-2-2 cm mellanrum totalt 11-12-13-13-15-15 gånger = 60-64-68-70-74-76 maskor. Det är ju omöjligt att få in så många maskor, jag ökade var 3-4 maska och kom upp i 59 maskor. Fungerar det?

user icon DROPS Design 13.04.2021 kl. 08:05:

Hej Mia. Du ska öka 1 maska på varje sida av markören mitt under ärmen, dvs 2 maskor ökade per varv. Stickar du storlek S så ska du öka med 3½ cm mellanrum (dvs första ökning av 2 maskor när arb mäter 10 cm, andra ökning av 2 maskor när arb mäter 13½ cm osv) och du ökar totalt 11 gånger. 38 m + (11x2) = 60 m. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Valentina 08.04.2021 - 01:38:

Hello, I don’t understand the first time part after the ribbing: the decreases. I’m making a size M and can’t seem to get the numbers right. I don’t know how often I should decrease. 97sts/15decreases= 6.4

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 08:11:

Dear Valentina, this lesson will help you to calculate how to decrease evenly. Happy knitting!

country flag Gunn Berit Engh 25.03.2021 - 09:53:

Hei. Jeg vil gjerne strikke denne på rundpinne, følger jeg bare samme oppskriften uten noen forandringer ..

user icon DROPS Design 25.03.2021 kl. 11:48:

Hej Gunn Berit, Ja det går helt fint :)

country flag Jytte Udengaard 17.03.2021 - 17:54:

Hej ! Jeg er nybegynder - Jeg forstår ikke hvorfor der står at ryg og forstykke strikkes hver for sig og syes sammen til sidst, når der samtidig står som start, at der skal slåes op på rundpind 4,5. Hvis der skal være slids på 8 cm må det vel være frem og tilbage på 2 pinde og hvis det herefter er på rundpind skal den ikke syes sammen. Er det ikke selvmodsigende. Takker for en forklaring

user icon DROPS Design 18.03.2021 kl. 09:33:

Hej Jytte, jo men vi har valgt at strikke frem og tilbage på rundpind, se vores video hvordan man gør, eller strik på jumperpinde om du hellere vil det :)

country flag Camila Calvo 10.03.2021 - 05:05:

Hola Jeanette, cómo estás?, mucho gusto, te escribo desde Colombia, me gustaría hacerte una pregunta, ¿puedo recopilar varios patrones gratuitos de los que compartes y reunirlos todos en un libro para regalarlo como un BONUS?, muchas gracias por leer, espero tu respuesta, PD: ME ENCANTAN TUS DISEÑOS!, TODOS!!

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2021 kl. 20:06:

Hola Camila, estos patrones se pueden distribuir libremente, siempre y cuando sea gratis (sin ánimo de lucro) y se mencione que son propiedad de DROPS Design.

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