Candy Bar Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for children with stripes in DROPS Air, Nepal or Paris. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and raglan. Sizes 1-10 years.

DROPS Children 34-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-016-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
(12/18 months) – 2 – 3/4 – 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 years
Size equivalent to child’s height in cm:
(80/86) - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
(50)-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 20, rose
(50)-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 08, light pink
(50)-50-50-100-100-100g colour 22, yellow
(50)-100-100-100-100-100 colour 27, sea green
Or use:
DROPS NEPAL / PARIS from Garnstudio (belong to yarn group C)
(50)-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 8909, coral / 38, raspberry
(100)-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 3720, medium pink / 59, old pink
(100)-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 2923, goldenrod / 41, mustard
(100)-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 7120, light grey green / 62, sage green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 33 rows in height with garter stitch and 17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for neck and rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (red) NO 617: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES:
Stripes are worked on the whole garment as follows:
Work (10½)-11-12-13-14-15 cm with rose, (8½)-9-10-11-12-13 cm yellow and (8½)- 9-10-11-12-13 cm sea green. Then complete the garment with light pink.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures approx. 1 cm. Then work the next (5)-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. (5)-5½-6-6½-7 cm between each one.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 47 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 40) = 1.1. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. All increases are worked from the right side! Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on (47)-53-55-57-61-61 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Air - the whole piece is worked in STRIPES – read description above. Work 3 ridges; the first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1 cm - see description above.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and insert 1 marker; THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. On the next row increase (40)-42-42-44-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – READ INCREASE TIP in explanations above = (87)-95-97-101-109-111 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (3)-3-3-3-3-3 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the next row increase (36)-38-38-40-46-48 stitches evenly spaced = (123)-133-135-141-155-159 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (7)-7-7-7-7-7 cm. On the next row increase 30-32-38-40-42-42 stitches evenly spaced = (153)-165-173-181-197-201 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (11)-11-12-12-13-13 cm.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece without working the stitches as follows: Insert 1 marker after (25)-26-27-28-30-31 stitches (= front piece), the next marker after (31)-35-37-39-43-43 stitches (= sleeve), the next marker after (41)-43-45-47-51-53 stitches (= back piece) and the last marker after (31)-35-37-39-43-43 stitches (= sleeve). There are 25-26-27-28-30-31 stitches left after the last marker (= front piece).
Continue with stocking stitch (the outermost 5 stitches in each side are continued in garter stitch to finished length) and on the first row from the right side increase stitches to RAGLAN – read description above (8 stitches increased on row). Increase on each row from the right side a total of (2)-3-3-4-4-5 times = (169)-189-197-213-229-241 stitches on needle. Continue working until the piece measures (13)-14-15-16-17-18 cm from the marker. The yoke is now divided for body and sleeves as follows: Work (27)-29-30-32-34-36 stitches (= left front piece), place the next (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve), work (45)-49-51-55-59-63 stitches (= back piece), place the next (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= side under sleeve) and work the remaining (27)-29-30-32-34-36 stitches (= right front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= (111)-119-123-131-139-147 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch (bands in garter stitch) and stripes as before until the piece measures (12)-14-16-19-22-25 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 2 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work the bands in garter stitch and the rest of the stitches in rib (knit 1/ purl 1) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. (30)-33-36-40-44-48 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = (41)-47-49-53-57-59 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 stitches under the sleeve; beginning of round. Work in the round with stocking stitch and stripes until the piece measures (12)-16-21-24-27-31 cm (or to desired length; there is approx. (4)-4-4-4-5-5 cm left to finished length). On the next round decrease (13)-17-17-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = (28)-30-32-32-34-34 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1/ purl 1) in the round for approx. (4)-4-4-4-5-5 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.09.2020
SLEEVE: .... On the next round decrease (13)-17-17-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = (28)-30-32-32-34-34 stitches.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Denise wrote:

Est-ce que je peux convertir ce gilet pour une fille de 6 ans ? Combien de mailles et combien de laine ?

19.12.2022 - 17:22

country flag Denise wrote:

Est-ce que je peux convertir ce gilet à une petite fille de 6 ans ? Si oui combien de laine et de mailles

19.12.2022 - 04:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Denise, vous trouverez les explications de ce gilet en taille 5/6 ans (4ème taille) - vérifiez la taille si besoin en mesurant un vêtement analogue qui va à l'enfant et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les tailles ici. Bon tricot!

19.12.2022 kl. 09:53

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

Vielen Dank für Ihre schnelle Antwort. Aber die Blende ist bei diesem Modell ja durch jeweils 6 Maschen schon in jeder Runde mit dran gestrickt. Ich suche das Vidio, wie man am Schluss die Kante der Blenden durch eine oder zwei Reihen dranstricken noch verschönert. Also eine Kante an die Blende strickt. Vielleicht könnten Sie mir dies suchen und posten hier? Das wäre wirklich sehr nett.

28.11.2022 - 14:39

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

Liebes Team, Sie sollen ja nicht die Anleitung anpassen. Ich suche nur Ihr Vidio, wie man eine Blende im Nachgang noch verschönert in dem man noch einen Rand daran strickt. Das Vidio hatte ich am Anfang der Arbeit unter der Anleitung gesehen. In einer etwas komplizierter Art und Weise wurden dort Maschen am Rand aufgenommen und gleich auch abgekettet. Es wäre sehr nett, wenn Sie doch mal nach diesem Vidio schauen könnten.

28.11.2022 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Griesel, unsere Video könnnen dann Ihnen vielleicht damit helfen: doppelte Blende ohne Knopflöcher und doppelte Blende mit Knopflöchern - an diesen Seiten finden Sie auch Beispiele, um Ihnen helfen zu können. Viel Spaß beium stricken!

28.11.2022 kl. 11:31

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

Da ich es nicht als Frage, sondern Kommentar geschrieben habe hier noch einmal: Noch mal zu meiner Frage. In dem Vidio wurde gezeigt, wie man an den offenen Seiten ( Blende für Knopflöcher und Knöpfen) noch eine Reihe dranstricjt. Mein Aufnehmen der Maschen diese gleich auch abkettet. Dadurch entstand ein sehr schöner Rand. Ich würde daa gern noch machen und hoffe, Sie wissen, waa ich meine und können mir helfen. Herzlich Elke

26.11.2022 - 18:49

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

Noch mal zu meiner Frage. In dem Vidio wurde gezeigt, wie man an den offenen Seiten ( Blende für Knopflöcher und Knöpfen) noch eine Reihe dranstricjt. Mein Aufnehmen der Maschen diese gleich auch abkettet. Dadurch entstand ein sehr schöner Rand. Ich würde daa gern noch machen und hoffe, Sie wissen, waa ich meine und können mir helfen. Herzlich Elje

26.11.2022 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Griesel, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen - am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Händler, dort wird man Ihnen am besten weiterhelfen - auch per Telephon oder per E-Mail. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 kl. 09:21

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

Ich habe die Jacke jetzt fertig. Als ich damit begonnen habe, gab es auf der Seite hier ein Vidio, wie man die länglichen Seiten ( also Knopflochpasse und die anderen, auf die Knöpfe genäht werden) noch einfasst. Leider finde ich das Vidio hier jetzt nicht mehr. Könntet ihr mir einen Link schicken dafür? Vielen Dank bereits jetzt.

26.11.2022 - 13:51

country flag Giselle Alexander wrote:

I do not see any instructions for the button band

10.11.2022 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Alexander, you will find all instructions about buttonholes at the beginning of the written pattern - see BUTTONHOLES:. Happy knitting!

11.11.2022 kl. 08:41

country flag Lucette wrote:

Bonjour Dites moi si je me trompe mais pour la taille 3/4 ans, après la séparation, pour les dos&devants, il me reste 111 mailles et non pas 123 : 197 - 2x43 en attente pour les manches = 111 mailles. Me suis je trompé quelque part ? Cordialement Lucette

14.10.2022 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lucette, il vous manque les mailles à monter sous les manches, ainsi vous aurez bien 123 mailles soit: 197-43-43 (manches) + 6-6 (nouvelles mailles sous les manches) = 123 mailles. Bon tricot!

17.10.2022 kl. 11:05

country flag Elke Griesel wrote:

In Ihrer Anleitung steht nach der dritten Zunahmestelle bei der Passe, vor dem Satz "4 Markierer anbringen ..." " Streifen nicht vergessen". Welche Streifen meonnn Sie denn damit? Der nächste (das wäre dann der zweite) Farbstreifen kommt doch erst später. Für eine schnelle Hilfe wäre ich Ihnen sehr dankbar. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Elke

08.10.2022 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Griesel, je nach der Größe beginnen die Streifen vor oder nach den Markierungen, deshalb muss man sich daran errinern - siehe STREIFEN. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 kl. 08:55

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