DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Candy Bar Jumper

Knitted jumper for children with stripes in DROPS Air, Nepal or Paris. The piece is worked in the round, top down with round yoke and raglan. Sizes 1-10 years.

DROPS Children 34-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-017-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
(12/18 months) – 2 – 3/4 – 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 years
Size equivalent to child’s height in cm:
(80/86) - 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
(50)-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 20, rose
(50)-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 08, light pink
(50)-50-50-100-100-100g colour 22, yellow
(50)-100-100-100-100-100 colour 27, sea green
Or use:
DROPS NEPAL / PARIS from Garnstudio (belong to yarn group C)
(50)-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 8909, coral / 38, raspberry
(100)-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 3720, medium pink / 59, old pink
(100)-100-100-100-150-150 g colour 2923, goldenrod / 41, mustard
(100)-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 7120, light grey green / 62, sage green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 33 rows in height with garter stitch/ 17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm for neck and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES:
Stripes are worked on the whole garment as follows:
Work (10½)-11-12-13-14-15 cm with rose, (8½)-9-10-11-12-13 cm yellow and (8½)- 9-10-11-12-13 cm sea green. Then complete the garment with light pink
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 46 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 40) = 1.15. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves, every 2nd round. Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits between these 2 stitches) and make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked in the round with circular needle, top down and then divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on (46)-52-54-56-60-60 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Air - the whole garment is worked in STRIPES – read description above. Work 3 ridges. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and insert 1 marker; THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. On the next round increase (40)-42-42-44-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP in explanations above = (86)-94-96-100-108-110 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (3)-3-3-3-3-3 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the next round increase (36)-38-38-40-46-48 stitches evenly = (122)-132-134-140-154-158 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (7)-7-7-7-7-7 cm. On the next round increase 30-32-38-40-42-42 stitches evenly = (152)-164-172-180-196-200 stitches. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (11)-11-12-12-13-13 cm – remember the stripes.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece without working the stitches as follows:
Insert 1 marker after (45)-47-49-51-55-57 stitches (= back piece), the next marker after (31)-35-37-39-43-43 stitches (= sleeve), the next marker after (45)-47-49-51-55-57 stitches (= front piece) and the final marker after (31)-35-37-39-43-43 stitches (= sleeve).
Continue with stocking stitch and, on the first round, increase to RAGLAN – read description above (8 stitches increased on round). Increase every 2nd round a total of (2)-3-3-4-4-5 times = (168)-188-196-212-228-240 stitches. Work until the piece measures (13)-14-15-16-17-18 cm from the marker. The yoke is now divided for body and sleeves as follows: Work (49)-53-55-59-63-67 stitches (= back piece), place the next (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work (49)-53-55-59-63-67 stitches (= front piece), place the next (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= (110)-118-122-130-138-146 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes as before until the piece measures (12)-14-16-19-22-25 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 2 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 1/ purl 1) for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. (30)-33-36-40-44-48 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the (35)-41-43-47-51-53 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = (41)-47-49-53-57-59 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 stitches under the sleeve = beginning of round. Work in the round with stocking stitch and stripes until the piece measures (12)-16-21-24-27-31 cm (or to desired length; there is approx. (4)-4-4-4-5-5 cm left to finished length). On the next round decrease (13)-17-17-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = (28)-30-32-32-34-34 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1/ purl 1) in the round for approx. (4)-4-4-4-5-5 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 09.09.2020
SLEEVE: .... On the next round decrease (13)-17-17-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = (28)-30-32-32-34-34 stitches.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Marcella wrote:

Buongiorno, non capisco per il raglan cosa si intende per : 1 maglia prima del segnapunti, 1 gettato, 2 maglie diritto . Devo fare 1 aumento sia prima che dopo il segnapunti ?

24.09.2023 - 07:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marcella, si esatto, deve aumentare 1 maglia prima e 1 maglia dopo il segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

25.09.2023 - 23:06

country flag Anette Pettersson wrote:

Hej! Mitt barnbarn älskar denna tröja som jag stickat till henne. Nu vill hon ha en till i andra färger och är nu 10 år. Min fråga är hur många maskor behöver jag lägga till om jag räknar med en storlek 11/12 år och skall sticka din i Air? Tacksam för lite hjälp.

15.06.2023 - 09:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, tror inte du behöver sticka den bredare.... men längre vilket är enkelt då du stickar uppifrån och ner :)

15.06.2023 - 14:21

country flag Annika wrote:

Ökningar ska göras efter 3 och 7 cm, är det mätt från början eller från märket efter halskanten? Står inte tydligt .

06.06.2023 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annika, du måler fra hvor der står "HERFRA MÅLES ARBEJDET VIDERE" :)

08.06.2023 - 14:45

country flag Lis wrote:

Jeg kan ikke finde farve 20, rose på farvekortet, Air

30.04.2023 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lis. Denne fargen er dessverre utgått fra vårt sortiment. Men det er godt mulig at noen butikker / nettbutikker har igjen av denne fargen (men denne opplysningen har ikke vi). Eller du kan ta en titt på farge 25, kanskje den vil falle i smak. mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2023 - 13:19

country flag Stephan wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas comment on démarre le tricot. J’ai monté mes mailles et ensuite il est indiqué « Tricoter 3 côtes mousse ». Qu’est ce que ça veut dire ? Merci beaucoup !

10.11.2022 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Stephan, 1 côte mousse correspond à 2 tours tricotés (cf POINT MOUSSE au tout début des explications); autrement dit, vous allez tricoter *1 tour endroit, 1 tour envers*, et répétez ces 2 tours encore 2 fois. Bon tricot!

10.11.2022 - 10:40

country flag Étincelle wrote:

Bonjour, ma question concerne les 6 mailles sous la manche. En effet après avoir mise les mailles en attente sur les aiguilles circulaire 5 on relève les les 6 mailles sous la manche( donc le fil de pelote sera placé à la fin des 6 mailles relevés). Selon les explications il faut placer un marqueur au milieu de ces 6 mailles=début du rang. Alors comment commencer un rang si le fil se trouve 3 mailles plus loin? Merci d’avance

04.05.2022 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Étincelle, ce n'est pas un souci, vous placez votre marqueur au milieu de ces 6 mailles, la transition des tours doit être ici. Bon tricot!

05.05.2022 - 09:20

country flag Mary Searle wrote:

Please can you tell me total weight ofyarn used for age 5/6. I have lots of leftover drops air from other patterns but I don't know if it will be enough. Thank you, mary

03.10.2021 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you'd need approx. 300gr of DROPS Air, but you may need less, since the amount is given approximately, taking into consideration full balls of yarn. Happy knitting!

03.10.2021 - 22:43

country flag Christine Dove wrote:

Under the yoke heading of the pattern it says to work until piece measures (13)-14-15-16-17-18 from the marker. Which marker are you referring to ?

07.07.2021 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, after casting on on work 3 ridges. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and insert 1 marker; THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Happy Stitching!

08.07.2021 - 02:11

country flag Patenaude wrote:

Dites-moi puis-je le faire en aiguilles régulières avec des coutures

06.07.2021 - 13:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patenaude, cette leçon vous explique comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

06.07.2021 - 16:28

country flag Sara Katarina wrote:

Hej Jeg strikker blusen i str. 7/8 år. Jeg har delt arbejdet i for- og bagstykke. I den forbindelse har jeg slået 6 masker op i siden af hvert ærme. Jeg forstår, at de 6 masker skal bruges, når jeg skal strikke ærmer. Derfor undrer det mig, at der under overskriften for for- og bagstykke, står at jeg skal have 138 masker. Her har man talt de 6x2 masker med, som om de skal strikkes med i for- og bagstykke. Det skal de vel ikke? Venligst Sara

30.06.2021 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sara. Jo, de nye maskene (6 x 2) skal telles med. Disse maskene er nye masker i sidene på genseren. Når du skal strikke ermene, skal du strikke opp 6 nye masker i disse 6 maskene, slik at ermene får 6 masker ekstra i hver erm. Ta evnt en titt på denne videoen, og rundt tiden 07:48 legges det opp nye masker til bolen, mens ved tiden 11:16 legges det opp nye masker til ermene (i denne oppskriften strikkes det opp masker under ermene istedenfor): Bluse strikket ovenfra og ned mvh DROPS design

05.07.2021 - 11:21