DROPS / 205 / 14

Simply Confident by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and v-neck in DROPS Lace and DROPS Kid-Silk or DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no la-042
Yarn group A + A or B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS LACE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour 0501, light grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 10, grey

Or use:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 04, grey

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand Lace + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Sky = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

SHORT ROWS-1 (for right neck-edge):
Start from the right side and work as follows: * 1 ridge back and forth over the first 3 stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over all 4 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 3 times. 

SHORT ROWS-2 (for left neck-edge):
Start from the wrong side and work as follows: * 1 ridge back and forth over the first 3 stitches, 1 ridge back and forth over all 4 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, then knit 1 row from the wrong side over all 4 stitches.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (marker thread sits here), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at all the other marker threads (8 stitches increased on the round). On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

V-NECK:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch inside the 4 stitches in garter stitch on each side of the piece by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
You first work 2 loose neck-edges. These are then placed on the circular needle and stitches are cast on for the neck as described in the text (the neck-edges are sewn together mid back and sewn onto the neck later).
Then the yoke is worked back and forth from mid front and top down. AT THE SAME TIME, you increase stitches for v-neck and raglan. When the increases to v-neck are finished the piece is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. 

NECK-EDGES:
Cast on 4 stitches with needle size 3.5 mm and Lace + Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Sky and work GARTER STITCH back and forth – read description above (row 1 = right side).
When the neck edge measures 6-6-6½-6½-7-7½ cm, work SHORT ROWS-1 – read description above. When the short rows are finished, work garter stitch back and forth over all 4 stitches for 6 cm in all sizes; finish with a row from the wrong side (right neck-edge now measures 14-14-14½-14½-15-15½ cm in length on the inside where it is shortest). Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side. 
Work left neck-edge in the same way, but when it measures 6-6-6½-6½-7-7½ cm, work SHORT ROWS-2 – read description above. When the short rows are finished, work garter stitch back and forth over all 4 stitches for 6 cm in all sizes; finish with a row from the right side (left neck-edge now measures 14-14-14½-14½-15-15½ cm in length on the inside where it is shortest). Place the stitches on circular needle size 4 mm (do not cut the strand) and cast on 66-66-68-68-70-72 stitches with the same circular needle (straight after the left neck edge) then knit the 4 stitches from the right neck edge = 74-74-76-76-78-80 stitches on the needle. Work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, work 2 stitches in the next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), purl until there are 5 stitches left on row, work 2 stitches in the next stitch (= 1 stitch increased) and work 4 stitches in garter stitch = 76-76-78-78-80-82 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 4 neck-edge stitches on one side. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Now work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads) as follows: Insert 1 marker thread 5 stitches in from each side, i.e., after 4 stitches in garter stitch + 1 knitted stitch (= transition between front pieces and sleeves), insert the next 2 marker threads after 16 new stitches on each side (= transition between sleeves and back piece). There are 34-34-36-36-38-40 stitches between the last 2 marker threads (= back piece).
Work stocking stitch with 4 stitches in garter stitch on each side towards the v-neck mid front. AT THE SAME TIME increase to raglan and v-neck as follows:
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

RAGLAN:
On the first row from the right side start to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 24-28-31-34-36-38 times.

V-NECK:
On row 3 start to increase to V-NECK – read description above. Increase like this every 4th row 4-5-6-7-8-8 times, then every 2nd row 10-9-9-8-8-9 times (= a total of 14-14-15-15-16-17 stitches increased for the v-neck on each side).
When all increases to v-neck are finished, cut the yarn. Insert a marker on mid back. This is now the beginning of the round. Continue working in the round from right side; over the 8 stitches in garter stitch work pattern A.1. When A.1 has been completed in height 4 stitches have been decreased in the diagram. When all the increases to raglan (+ the 4 decreases in A.1) are finished there are 292-324-352-376-396-416 stitches on the round. Now continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 19-21-23-25-28-30 cm from the marker. Finish the round mid back. The next round is worked as follows:
NOTE: The piece is divided for body and sleeves and 1-1-1-2-4-6 stitches from each side of each sleeve are worked into the body; the transitions between body and sleeves are no longer at the marker threads: Work the first 42-46-50-54-59-64 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 62-70-76-80-80-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 84-92-100-108-118-128 stitches (= front piece), place the next 62-70-76-80-80-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 42-46-50-54-59-64 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-220-236-260-288 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round with circular needle size 4 mm. When the piece measures 30-30-30-30-29-29 cm change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 62-70-76-80-80-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-78-86-90-92-96 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 4-4-5-5-6-8 new stitches on each side). Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 10-13-16-17-17-18 times = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. When the sleeve measures 44-43-42-41-38-37 cm change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-43-42-39-38 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck-edges together mid back with the seam on wrong side. Stretch the neck-edge slightly and sew to the neck at the back.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Kim Wijns 09.12.2019 - 16:11:

This raglan does not come symmetrical.

KARIMA 24.11.2019 - 23:03:

Bonjour très contente de mon projet et de mes progrès vous indiquez de commencer les diminutions manche quand celle ci fait 4 cms mais ou dois je mesurer ces 4 cms ? sous la manche ? merci par avance

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 10:39:

Bonjour Karima, vous mesurez depuis la fin de l'empiècement (où il est indiqué MESURER DÉSORMAIS L'OUVRAGE À PARTIR D'ICI!), c'est-à-dire à partir du premier rang de la manche, mais bien dans le sens du tricot (le long des mailles) pour que la longueur finale soit juste. Bon tricot!

Beatrice 13.11.2019 - 23:51:

Bonjour! J'ai tricoté les 2 bordures au point mousse. Quand je les mets sur l'aiguille circulaire avec les 66 mailles supplémentaires, est ce qu'elles tournent vers l'intérieur ( < ---------->) ou vers l'extérieur ( > --------

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 10:07:

Bonjour Béatrice, l'arrondi des rangs raccourcis de chacune des bordures doit se trouver sous les mailles montées pour l'encolure - placez bien un marqueur sur l'endroit de chacune des bordures d'encolure pour mieux vous repérer. Bon tricot!

KARIMA 13.11.2019 - 11:39:

Bonjour Merci pour toutes vos réponses à mes questions précédentes ,j'ai bien progressé . Je suis bloquée au moment de la mise en attente des mailles pour les manches . Vous indiquez :Tricotez les mailles du demi dos , Mettre en attente les mailles de la manche et monter 8 mailles ( = côté , sous la manche ) Je les monte sur l'aiguille gauche coté demi devant alors ? merci de votre aide précieuse

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 12:15:

Bonjour Karima, vous allez mettre les mailles des manches en attente et monter vos mailles sous la manche comme au time code 07:00 de cette vidéo = sur l'aiguille droite, puis tricoter les mailles du devant et répéter pour la 2ème manche. La vidéo montre un pull différent mais la technique des manches sera la même ici. Bon tricot!

Helena 10.11.2019 - 19:59:

Hi, it is not very clear at all which way the initial neck edges should face when putting them on the circular needle. As it is very hard for me to follow right and wrong sides with the garter stitch, perhaps you could clarify this with a picture or smth. Maybe like this: assuming the neck edge makes a shape like this: < , and the new cast-on stitches are a simple line: ____, does the shape on the circular needle look like this: < ___________ > or like this: >__________< ?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 11:28:

Dear Helena, you can insert a marker the first row worked on both neck edges, so that the marker will mark the right side of both piece and you will be sure then to continue the pattern as explained. Happy knitting!

KARIMA MIMOUNE REZIG 04.11.2019 - 14:38:

Bonjour. Que faut il faire pour avoir une encolure V plus profonde ? Merci ! Ps il fait bien rassembler les 4 mailles + 4 mailles de l encolure pour commencer à tricoter en rond ? Comment procéder ? Merci

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:25:

Bonjour Mme Rezig, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande, n'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone. Pour continuer en rond on fait glisser la moitié des mailles de l'aiguille gauche (= début des rangs sur l'endroit précédents) sur l'aiguille droite, à la suite de la dernière maille (fin des rangs sur l'endroit précédents) et on tricote A.1 sur les 4 dernières m des rangs + les 4 premières mailles des rangs = 8 mailles au milieu devant. Bon tricot!

Karima 03.11.2019 - 18:38:

Bonjour. Je viens de finir mes augmentations d’encolure. J ai coupé le fil mais je ne comprends pas comment continuer. J ai mon travail sur deux aiguilles Vous dites que les tours commencent’ ici ,? Continuez en rond ? Dois je joindre les bandes d’encolure en rond ? Je suis perdue ( pas le marqueur milieu de dos c est bien entre les raglans? ) merci

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 07:58:

Bonjour Karima, quand les augmentations de l'encolure sont terminées, on continue le pull en rond, on va donc joindre l'ouvrage sur l'aiguille circulaire pour que la dernière maille du dernier rang tricoté soit juste avant la première maille de ce même rang, on fait glisser les mailles de l'aiguille gauche sur l'aiguille droite jusqu'à ce qu'on arrive au marqueur du milieu dos, on joint le fil et on continue en rond à partir du milieu dos. Bon tricot!

KARIMA 31.10.2019 - 21:55:

Bonjour , est il normal que j'ai de chaque coté les deux bandes d'encolures ( de 14 cms ) tricotés initialement qui pendouillent ... j'en suis au tout début augmentations raglan et encolure . Comment faire pour repérer ou faire ces augmentations ,j'ai placé des fils marqueurs mais ils sont sur le premier rang ,j'ai du mal à me repérer . merci de votre aide c'est une technique toute nouvelle pour moi (les autres top downs sont souvent avec un début encolure ronde .... )

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:30:

Bonjour Karima, oui tout à fait, on va les coudre ensuite le long de l'encolure - cf ASSEMBLAGE.Ce sont les fils marqueurs qui vont servir de repère aux augmentations, regardez ici comment les faire suivre. Bon tricot!

Rosita 16.10.2019 - 22:28:

Buongiorno,io non riesco ad usare i ferri accorciati,c'è un altro modo per eseguire questo modello?se sì come fare?grazie

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 06:48:

Buongiorno Rosita, i ferri accorciati sono ferri in cui lavora solo una parte delle maglie sul ferro e non tutte le maglie. Per lavorarlo, basta seguire le istruzioni riportate all'inizio del modello. Buon lavoro!

Giusi 02.10.2019 - 09:59:

Buongiorno 😃 Potreste indicarmi un video tutorial della tecnica più indicata per cucire il bordo al collo? Grazie

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