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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Socks & Slippers
  4. Slippers
  5. DROPS
  6. 198
  7. 19

Himalayan Rose by DROPS Design

Crocheted slippers with flower in square and stripes in DROPS Nepal. Size 35 to 43 = 5 to 10 1/2

Keywords: floral, slippers

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DROPS 198-19
DROPS design: Pattern ne-302
Yarn group C
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SIZE:
US: 5/6 1/2 – 71/2/9 – 9 1/2/10 1/2
EU: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50 g color 6273, cerise
50 g color 0206, light beige
50 g color 2923, goldenrod
50 g color 3720, medium pink

For a uni-colored piece use Nepal:
100 - 150 - 150 g

CROCHET GAUGE:
17 single crochets in width and 20 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm = US 6
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

CROCHET SQUARE:
See crochet square diagram A.1 and read COLOR CHANGE in explanation below.
Work cast-on circle and 1st round with medium pink.
ROUND 2: Work with cerise.
ROUND 3: Work with goldenrod.
ROUND 4: Work with light beige.
ROUND 5: Work with goldenrod - and begin this round in the corner on square at the arrow and work only on 3 of the sides.

STRIPES - TOE:
The number of stripes you wish to work in each color is optional. For example:
ROUND 1: Work with goldenrod.
ROUND 2: Work with goldenrod or medium pink.
ROUND 3: Work with medium pink or light beige.
ROUND 4: Work with light beige or cerise.
Finish with cerise.

STRIPES - UNDER PIECE:
ROW 1: Work with goldenrod.
ROW 2: Work with medium pink.
ROW 3: Work with light beige.
ROUND 4 AND ONWARDS: Finish with goldenrod.

COLOR CHANGE.
When switching color at the beginning of a round, work slip stitch at the end of previous round with the new color.

DECREASE TIP-1:
WORK 2 HALF DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER INTO 1 STITCH = 1 STITCH DECREASED.
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to even distribution):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 36 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 4. In this example work approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SLIPPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work crochet square A.1, then work under piece on two opposite sides of crochet square, then work toe and finally the heel.

SLIPPER:
Begin by working the crochet square at the top of foot - see diagram A.1 and read CROCHET SQUARE above. Finished square measures approx. 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

UNDER PIECE:
Under piece consists of 2 equal parts that are worked back and forth on side-B and side-D respectively, sew these sides together under foot afterwards.
Work first part on square’s side-B, see diagram A.1. For color see STRIPES - UNDER PIECE in explanation above.
Work 1 half double crochet in every single crochet = 17 half double crochets.
Work half double crochets back and forth over these stitches for 5-6-7 cm = 2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4” (turn every row with 2 chain stitches). Fasten off.
Repeat in the opposite side - side-D of crochet square.
Then sew these part tog mid under foot - sew in front loop of last row with of stitches to avoid a chunky seam mid under foot.

TOE:
Work toe in the round on side-E, see diagram A.1. For color see STRIPES - TOE in explanation above, and read COLOR CHANGE in explanation above.
Work 1 half double crochet in every stitch along side-E (= 17 half double crochet), then work 19-21-23 half double crochet around under piece of foot = 36-38-40 half double crochet in total. Finish every round with 1 slip stitch in first stitch on round and work 2 chain stitches. Continue in the round with half double crochets for 4-4-5 rounds in total.
Then work 3-4-5 rounds while decreasing 9-7-6 stitches evenly on every round - READ DECREASE TIP-1 and 2 = 9-10-10 stitches. Cut the thread, baste the thread up and down around the tip, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly.

HEEL PIECE:
Crochet with goldenrod. Around chain space in the corner on side-C work 3 half double crochets and then work 22-24-26 half double crochet along under piece on foot, then work 3 half double crochets around chain space in the corner on square’s side-C = 28-30-32 stitches.
Now work heel with half double crochets and medium pink. Turn every row with 2 chain stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row increase 1 half double crochet at the end of row by working 2 stitches in last stitch. Repeat this increase at the end of every row a total of 6 times (i.e. 3 times in each side) = 34-36-38 stitches. Continue until the entire slipper measures approx. 22-24-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the slipper double and sew together edge to edge mid back of heel.
Then work 1 round with single crochets in goldenrod around the opening on slipper.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch ring
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 single crochet between 2 stitches
symbols = 1 half double crochet between 2 stitches
symbols = round begins with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = in space between the first 2 chain stitches and first single crochet on round below to be worked: 2 trebles together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around space between stitches, but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet the same way, but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = work 3 double trebles together between 2 stitches as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around space between stitches, but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 2 treble crochets the same way, but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = 1 half double crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain space between 2 stitches
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = begin last round here
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 198-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Sus Leth wrote:

I would like to know when this pattern was published?

20.06.2020 - 17:08

country flag Michelle wrote:

Cute and easy to fallow making for Christmas thanks for this awesome pattern

14.08.2019 - 02:08

country flag Laura wrote:

Podrías hacer video de pantuflas? pars que sea más fácil de realizar

17.06.2019 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Laura. Cada día publicamos nuevos vídeos. Síguenos en las redes sociales para poder ver qué vídeos se publican. Enviaremos tu sugerencia al departamento de vídeos.

20.06.2019 kl. 23:09

country flag Marie Josee Giangreco wrote:

Merci pour ses beaux modèles et vos vidéos bien expliquées

04.06.2019 - 17:00

country flag Marina wrote:

ORIGINALI BABBUCCE CON I QUADRATI GRANNY

12.12.2018 - 16:21

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198-19 Himalayan Rose

PAKFurnicutza, Canada
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.