DROPS / 199 / 23

Rivage Top by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern e-294
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 50, mint

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.55 € /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.55 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.75€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5, A.6 and A.7).

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 26) = 4.8. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves as explained below:
Increase after the marker thread like this: knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
Increase before the marker thread like this: work until 1 stich remain before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1.
You increase 2 stitches at each marked thread, and a total of 8 stitches on the round.
On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on body and in lace pattern on sleeves. 

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased in total on round.) On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Divide yoke for body and sleeve edges. Continue body in the round, top down. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 120-124-128-132-138-146 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 6-26-22-38-32-44 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 126-150-150-170-170-190 stitches. Knit 1 round (knit yarn overs twisted). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 4 marker threads in piece as explained below (without working the stitches). Use marker threads later when increasing for raglan. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round, count 23 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 40-52-52-62-62-72 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 23 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch. There are 40-52-52-62-62-72 stitches after last marker thread on back piece.
Work first round as follows: increase for RAGLAN after the marker thread – read explanation above, work A.1 over the next 21 stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains before next marker thread (= front piece), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work A.1 over the 21 stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remain before marker thread at the beginning of round (=back piece), increase for raglan before marker thread.
Continue pattern like this in stocking stitch on front and back piece and A.1 on sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME continue increase for raglan every other round until increase has been done 25-25-31-31-37-37 times in total at every marker thread (including increase explained on first round). Work the new stitch in stocking stitch on front and back piece and in lace pattern the way diagrams show on sleeves.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue lace pattern on sleeves as explained below:
LACE PATTERN SLEEVE:
SIZE S and M: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.6 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.
SIZE L and XL: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.
SIZE XXL and XXXL: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked, work next round as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.6 over the next 72 stitches (= 6 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
When increases for raglan are done, there are 326-350-398-418-466-486 stitches on round. Continue lace pattern as explained above until last row in A.5 and A.7 remains.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves and work last round as follows: Knit 4-1-2-0-4-3, slip the next 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit the next 98-104-118-124-144-152 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 94-103-116-124-140-149 stitches (= back piece). Yoke measures now approx. 20-20-24-24-27-27 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Remove all marker threads in piece and cut the yarn. Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 212-224-252-268-308-328 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move marker threads upwards when working. Use them later when increasing in the sides.
Begin round at one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 4 cm from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm 5 times in total in all sizes = 232-244-272-288-328-348 stitches. Work until piece measures approx. 28-30-28-30-29-31 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements). Knit 1 round while increasing 56-60-68-72-80-84 stitches evenly = 288-304-340-360-408-432 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib to be worked, from contracting.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 2 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Top measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Slip the 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 73-79-89-95-99-103 stitches.
Work 3 ridges in the round. Cast off by knitting. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked






Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Christa 24.05.2020 - 14:55:

Hallo, ik heb nog een vraagje ivm dit patroon. Bij alle maten staat : verdeel nu de pas voor het lijf en de mouwen en brei de laatste naald als volgt: 4recht - 1-2-0-4-3.?? Voor de rest is alles goed doorgenomen ik kan ik beginnen met breien. Het is een mooie trui dankjewel

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 12:00:

Dag Christa,

Er stond een tekstfoutje in dat is nu gecorrigeerd naar brei 4-1-2-0-4-3 recht. Veel breiplezier!

Christa Dewilde 27.04.2020 - 13:08:

Hallo ik zou graag dit patroon willen maken (199-23) ik heb nog baby alpaca silk kan ik dit gebruiken? Ik heb maat xxl wat moet ik dan gebruiken voor het patroon? A1 A 2....? Dankjewel 😊

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 20:22:

Dag Christa,

Ja, BabyAlpaca Silk ik s ook geschikt voor dit patroon. We zijn benieuwd naar je resultaat :) In beschrijving staat duidelijk aangegeven welke telpatronen je wanneer moet gebruiken. Voor sommig telpatronen zijn ze per maat verschillend. De maat staat dan bij de telpatronen. Dus als je bijvoorbeeld A.5 moet breien, neem je het telpatroon A.5 waar jouw bij staat.

Nathalie 18.04.2020 - 17:55:

Hallo, ich stricke das Shirt in Größe M und bin gerade fertig mit den Raglanzunahmen. In Diagramm A5 und A7 wird alle zwei Runden jeweils am Beginn bzw. Ende des Ärmel ein Umschlag und Abnahme gestrickt (nach bzw. vor den Raglanmaschen). Werden an dem Rumpfteil und Vorderteil auch diese Umschläge mit Abnahmen gestrickt, sodass das Lochmuster an den Raglanmaschen beidseitig bleibt oder wird das Lochmuster nur an den Ärmelmaschen fortgesetzt? Vielen Dank.

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 10:02:

Liebe Nathalie, wenn Sie diese kleine Lochmuster am Vorder- und Rückentil auch möchten, dann können Sie auch die 2 ersten + 2 letzten Maschen wie in A.5/A.7 stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Alma 17.03.2020 - 16:24:

L'inizio dello schema A5 in corrispondenza della quinta fila io lo interpreto come un gettato e due maglie in insieme ma se io sto effettuando ancora gli aumenti come faccio a capire se sto procedendo correttamente grazie

DROPS Design 17.03.2020 kl. 17:24:

Buongiorno Alma. Se abbiamo capito correttamente la domanda, è sufficiente che verifichi il corretto incolonnamento del motivo traforato. Buon lavoro!

Alma 10.03.2020 - 16:58:

Mi trovo a lavorare lo schema A5 sulla taglia s ora non capisco se per andare devo prima fare i giri tutti a dritto per arrivare a lavorare l'inizio della riga A6 grazie

Alma 10.03.2020 - 16:47:

Mi trovo a lavorare lo schema A5 sulla taglia s ora non capisco se per andare devo prima fare i giri tutti a dritto per arrivare a lavorare l'inizio della riga A6 grazie

DROPS Design 11.03.2020 kl. 09:25:

Buongiorno Alma, sta facendo riferimento alla parte traforata sulle maniche? I motivi A.5, A.6 e A.7 sono consecutivi, per cui deve lavorare la prima riga di A.5, poi la prima riga di A.6 e infine la prima riga di A.7 e così via. Ci riscriva se non abbiamo ben interpretato la sua domanda. Buon lavoro!

Alma 20.02.2020 - 15:56:

Chiedo nuovamente scusa se non ho afferrato la risposta ma riferendomi all'inizio dello schema a1 per quanti riguarda le maniche il motivo inizia subito dopo gli aumenti del raglan alle maniche grazie

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 16:17:

Buongiorno Alma. Inizia il giro dal segno di inizio, lavora 1 m diritto, 1 gettato, schema a1 sulle 21 m successive, 1 gettato, 1 m dir (così ha lavorato le 23 m della manica e ha aumentato per il raglan). Procede come indicato per le maglie del davanti (sempre aumentando) e lavora in modo uguale le maglie dell'altra manica. Buon lavoro!

Alma 20.02.2020 - 10:37:

Cortesemente volevo sapere se il motivo a1 sulle maniche viene effettuato prima o dopo gli aumenti del raglan chiedo scusa ma non riesco a capire grazie

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 11:30:

Buongiorno Alma. Lavora il motivo a1 sulle maniche e intanto aumenta prima e dopo ogni segno come spiegato nel paragrafo: raglan. Buon lavoro!

Karla 22.11.2019 - 05:15:

Hola, estoy tejiendo esta blusa en talla grande, pero no me queda del todo claro cómo hacer las adaptaciones para las mangas, justo en las últimas vueltas donde indica que la orilla tiene puntos juntos y lazada. ¿Cómo se hace, no queda muy grande?

DROPS Design 24.11.2019 kl. 23:46:

Hola Karla. No se entiende bien donde tienes el problema. Puedes especificar tu duda?. El patrón está correcto y si tienes la tensión correcta el tamaño de la manga es según el diagrama con las medidas bajo el patrón.

Tone Synnøve 04.08.2019 - 09:48:

Er ikke denne toppen veldig liten i halsåpningen? Vanlig hodeomkrets på voksne ligger mellom 56 og 60 cm. I hht oppgitte mål må en helt opp i størrelse XXXL for å få 56cm. Jeg har begynt å strikke i str L og jeg ser ikke at jeg vil klare å tre denne over hodet. Hva gjør jeg?

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 10:12:

Hei Tone. Ikke legg opp for stramt og husk strikkefastheten, da skal målene som er oppgitt i oppskriften bli stort nok for å få det over hodet. God Fornøyelse!

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