DROPS / 199 / 41

Spring Melt by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Spring Melt / DROPS 199-41 - Knitted jacket with round yoke and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Spring Melt / DROPS 199-41 - Knitted jacket with round yoke and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-291
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 17, white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM: for garter stitch edges.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: length 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 158 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 5) = 29.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 30th stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (do not increase on bands).

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
First buttonhole worked on first row after the garter stitch edge for neck. Then the other 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7-7-7½-8-7-7½ cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

JACKET:
YOKE:
Cast on 153-158-163-171-178-183 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work 2 rows stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME increase 0-5-0-2-5-10 stitches evenly spaced on 1st row – read INCREASE TIP and REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES = 153-163-163-173-183-193 stitches. Now work pattern as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 12 stitches), A.2 (= 10 stitches) a total of 13-14-14-15-16-17 times, A.3 (= 1 stitch), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 to A.3 have been completed there are 321-343-343-365-387-409 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 14 cm from the cast-on edge. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Sizes S, XL and XXXL:
The next row is worked as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.5 over the next 22 stitches, A.4 over the next 88-110-132 stitches (= 4-5-6 repeats in width). Work A.4B (= 11 stitches), A.5 over the next 66 stitches (= 3 repeats), work the last 11 stitches in A.4, A.4 over the next 88-110-132 stitches (= 4-5-6 repeats in width), A.5 over the next 22 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Continue like this back and forth. When A.5 has been completed, work A.6 over each repeat of A.5; i.e. work a repeat of A.6 beside each band (+ 1 or 2 stitches in stocking stitch) and 3 repeats of A.6 mid back. When A.4 has been completed there are 341-441-511 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch, A.6 (+ 1 or 2 stitches stocking stitch) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until the piece measures 15-21-25 cm.

Sizes M, L and XXL:
The next row is worked as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.5 over the next 22 stitches, A.4 over the next 110-110-132 stitches (= 5-5-6 repeats in width), work A.5 over the next 66 stitches (= 3 repeats), A.4 over the next 110-110-132 stitches (= 5-5-6 repeats in width), A.5 over the next 22 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth. When A.5 has been completed, work A.6 over each repeat of A.5; i.e. work one repeat of A.6 beside each band (+ 1 or 2 stitches in stocking stitch) and there are 3 repeats of A.6 mid back. When A.4 has beeen completed, there are 373-413-469 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch, A.6 (+ 1 or 2 stitches in stocking stitch) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until the piece measures 17-19-23 cm.

All sizes:
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work pattern as before over the first 31 stitches, knit the next 104-120-140-154-168-189 stitches and increase at the same time 5-5-5-5-11-13 stitches evenly spaced, work pattern as before over the next 72 stitches, knit the next 104-120-140-154-168-189 stitches and increase at the same time 5-5-5-5-11-13 stitches evenly spaced, work pattern as before over the remaining 30 stitches = 351-383-423-451-491-537 stitches. Turn and work the last row on the yoke as follows (from the wrong side): Work pattern as before over the first 54-59-64-69-75-82 stitches, place the next 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, work pattern as before over the next 99-107-117-127-139-153 stitches, place the next 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, work pattern as before over the remaining 54-59-64-69-75-82 stitches.

BODY:
= 223-241-265-285-313-341 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeves on each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). Continue back and forth with A.6, stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front as before. NOTE: You work 2 stitches stocking stitch between the first 5 band stitches and A.6 at the start of the row (seen from the right side) and 1 stitch stocking stitch between A.6 and the last 5 band stitches at the end of the row (seen from the right side). When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm a total of 5 times = 203-221-245-265-293-321 stitches. When the piece measures 17 cm – adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat of A.6 in height (there are now 6 cm left to finished length), continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 22 cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 ridges over all stitches. Cast off, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make a yarn over after each 6th stitch. Yarn overs cast off as normal stitches.

SLEEVE:
Place the 72-79-89-93-101-110 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece back onto double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 80-87-99-103-113-122 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now decrease stitches mid top of sleeve as follows: Work the first 30-33-35-37-41-45 stitches, knit 2 and 2 stitches together over the next 20-20-28-28-30-32 stitches (= 10-10-14-14-15-16 stitches decreased), knit the next 30-34-36-38-42-45 stitches = 70-77-85-89-98-106 stitches. Work 2 rounds stocking stitch. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to left front band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row (from the wrong side) purl the yarn over - to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row (from the wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Roberta 11.05.2021 - 16:08:

Ops….mi sono resa conto solo ora che dovevo ripetere solo A2……..qualche suggerimento su come posso proseguire senza dover disfare tutto il lavoro che ho fatto?

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2021 kl. 21:10:

Buonasera Roberta, all'inizio del lavoro deve lavorare 5 maglie per il bordo, A.1, A.2 x 13 volte e A.3, 5 maglie per il bordo. Buon lavoro!

country flag Roberta 11.05.2021 - 15:32:

Ho problemi a capire il prosieguo del lavoro dopo aver lavorato i primi schemi. Taglia S= 153 maglie iniziali, ho lavorato la prima parte “bordo +[A1+A2(per 13 volte)]+A3+bordo” per 40 ferri e alla fine invece di trovarmi con 321 maglie mi trovo con 311 maglie “bordo+A1(x7)+A2(x6)+A1+bordo” …..come posso proseguire?

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2021 kl. 21:10:

Buonasera Roberta, deve lavorare 5 maglie per il bordo, A.1 (12 maglie), ripetere A.2 per 13 volte, lavorare A.3 (1 maglia), 5 maglie per il bordo. Alla fine dei diagrammi avrà 321 maglie perchè si aumentano 12 maglie con il diagramma A.1 e 12 maglie per ogni ripetizione di A.2, quindi 12 + 12x13 = 12 + 156 = 168 aumenti + 153 = 321 maglie. Buon lavoro!

country flag Queron 07.05.2021 - 17:10:

Je ne comprends pas comment faire après avoir terminé A1 et A2, il est très compliqué les explications ne sont pas clairs qu est ce que veut dire A5 au dessus des 22 mailles. A4 au dessus des 110 mailles suivantes

user icon DROPS Design 10.05.2021 kl. 10:34:

Bonjour Mme Queron, vous tricotez d'abord A.1- A.3 (en répétant A.2 entre A.1 et A.3) puis tricotez les diagrammes suivants ainsi (taille M par ex): 5 m point mousse, 2 m jersey, A.5 (= 22 m), 5 x A.4 (= 110 m), 3 x A.5 (= 66m ), 5 x A.4 (= 110m), 1 x A.5 (= 22 m), 1 m jersey, 5 m point mousse = 5+2+22+110+66+110+22+1+5= 343 m. Bon tricot!

country flag Tabea Kaufmann 02.03.2021 - 19:32:

Hallo ich hätte eine Frage zu dem Strickmuster. Ich bin mit der Passé fertig und gerade in der Rückreihe, in der 72 Maschen für die Ärmel stillgelegt werden sollen. Mir ist nun nicht ganz klar an welcher Stelle 8 Maschen zugenommen werden sollen. Wie macht man das?

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 06:58:

Liebe Frau Kaufamann, dieses Video zeigt, wie man diese Maschen anschlägt, und auch in dieser Lektion sehen Sie, ab Bild 10, wie man die Maschen für die Ärmel stilllegt und wie man weiter strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Greetje Van Der Zee 19.05.2020 - 21:46:

Ik begrijp het stuk na de pas niet, wel het patroon maar er staat bij maat S dat het gebreid moet worden tot het werk 15 cm meet. 15 cm vanaf waar? De pas was 14 cm, moet ik dit stuk na de pas dan twee keer breien?

user icon DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 10:00:

Dag Greetje,

Nee, je breit de pas niet 2 keer , maar je breit tot de pas 15 cm meet vanaf de opzetnaald in maat S.

country flag Marijke 16.04.2020 - 08:34:

Bij patroon A6 midden maak je 6 gaatjes door een omslag, dan heb je dus 12 steken(en minder je aan elke zijkant 2x3 steken) de volgende rij van 6 gaatjes kan je dan niet breien door om en om een omslag te maken omdat de voorgaande 6 steken er 12 zijn geworden. doe ik iets verkeerd ?

country flag Grethe 13.04.2020 - 09:20:

Hej igen. Jeg har fundet ud af det. Jeg har gjort klar til ærmerne og den bliver rigtig flot. Passer godt til sommerkjolen. :-)

country flag Grethe 03.04.2020 - 15:41:

Som nævnt, skal jeg i gang med mønster A6. Er det sådan her det skal strikkes: 5 kantm., 2 m. glatstrik, A6, A4, A6, A6, A6, A4, A6, 1 m. glatstrik, 5 kantm.

country flag Grethe 01.04.2020 - 15:49:

Hej Jeg skal nu igang med mønster A6, hvor der skal strikkes en rapport på hver side af forkanten( + 1 eller 2 masker glatstrik)? hvor mange masker glatstrik skal jeg strikke i en str. M? 1 eller 2?

user icon DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 09:02:

Hej Så fint att du fant ut av det :)

country flag Ann Veronica Marshall 30.03.2020 - 15:42:

Thanks for nothing !

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