DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
 100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS
  5. 202
  6. 31

Awakening Spring Jacket

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Change language:

Highlight Size:
DROPS 202-31

#awakeningspringjacket

DROPS design: Pattern w-759
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 27, peach

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm – for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6 pieces for all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Women Jackets & Cardigansassembly free lace raglan round neck top down
related pattern
DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
 100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.3). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 10.4. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 9th and 10th stitch and every 10th and 11th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side! 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.5 as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.5, knit 2 together, work A.5, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Increase 4 stitches on row as follows:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 177 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 35) = 4.8. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next row (wrong side) work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 2 knit stitches in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on sleeves and work them into pattern on front and back piece. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5 approx. 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm between each.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 102-106-114-118-126-130 stitches (including 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2½ cm - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Knit 1 row while decreasing 9-13-13-17-17-21 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 93-93-101-101-109-109 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work the 4 band stitches in each side in garter stitches).

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work in PATTERN - read explanation above, as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, A.2 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, A.3 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.1 over the next 20 stitches (= 2 repetitions), A.2 over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, A.3 over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.4 over the next 9 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). 8 stitches have been increased for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 18-22-23-26-28-30 times in total = 237-269-285-309-333-349 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When diagrams have been worked vertically, continue pattern the same way. I.e. work according to A.2/A.3 towards raglan line on front pieces and back piece, and there is now from for 1 more repetition of A.1 before A.2 and after A.3 on front pieces and back piece. Continue sleeves in stocking stitch. When all increases for raglan are done, piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Work next row from wrong side as follows:
NOTE: Work some of the stitches (= 1-1-0-1-1-3 stitches) on sleeves on to needle for body, so that the transition between body and sleeves are now longer at the marker threads.
Work the first 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches, slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64
stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 71-79-83-91-99-107 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 169-185-197-213-233-253 stitches. Work A.5 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves, 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and work as many repetitions lace pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 6 cm 2 times in total in all sizes = 177-193-205-221-241-261 stitches. Continue until piece measures 21 cm (adjust to finish after a lace pattern vertically + some rows in stocking stitch). Now increase 33-41-41-45-49-53 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 210-234-246-266-290-314 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on row, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve = 54-62-68-72-78-80 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and work A.5 over the middle 8 stitches under sleeve. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 stitches under sleeves - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease like this every 3 cm 5 times and every 4 cm 4 times (= 9 decreases in total).
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm 6 times and every 3 cm 6 times (= 12 decreases in total).
Size L: Decrease like this every 2 cm 14 times in total.
Size XL: Decrease like this every cm 8 times and every 2 cm 8 times (= 16 decreases in total).
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 times in total).
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 decreases in total).
When all decreases on sleeve are done there are 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on round. Continue until sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Now increase 8-6-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP-2 = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-34 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.08.2023
under BODY, only correction in size S::
... Now increase 33 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 210 stitches.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 1 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #awakeningspringjacket or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Awakening Spring Jacket

Elisabeth, France

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 202-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Jeannette Walraven wrote:

Hallo, ik zou graag dit vest op 2 pennen willen breien van onder naar boven heeft u daar een patroon van?

18.12.2024 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jeannette,

Nee, helaas is dit patroon van boven naar beneden en op de rondbreinaald.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier. Helaas is dit niet voor alle patronen geschikt.

19.12.2024 - 18:12

country flag Jeannette Walraven wrote:

Beste, ik zou graag dit vest van onder naar boven breien dus op 2 pennen, heeft u daar een patroon van? Groetjes

18.12.2024 - 00:10

country flag Silla wrote:

Hallo! Ich stricke Gr.L und habe eine Frage zu den Diagrammen: Werden hier Hin- UND Rückreihen dargestellt? (Ich kenne es so, dass nur die Hinreihen abgebildet werden, aber das macht bei den Raglan-Zunahmen ja gar keinen Sinn) Danke für die Antwort. VG Silla

16.09.2024 - 21:56

Silla answered:

Danke, ich habe es in den FAQ gefunden🙈🤗

16.09.2024 - 22:26

country flag Natasia wrote:

Hej. Jeg er nået til den nederste rib kant på ryg/forstykket (jeg strikker størrelse small). Opskriften siger at jeg skal have 212 masker, hvilket jeg har. Men den siger også at jeg i ribben skal ende med to retmasker før de fire kantmasker. Men det går ikke op. Jeg forstår ikke helt hvad der går galt for mig

14.07.2023 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Natasia Oppskriften er oversendt design avd. slik at de kan kontroll sjekke maskeantallet i den minste størrelsen (maskeantallet går opp i de andre størrelsene). Når du øker 35 masker jevnt fordelt før det byttes til rundpinne 4, kan du istedenfor øke 33 masker, slik at du har 210 masker, da vil vrangborden stemme. mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 08:34

country flag ROSA KIAN wrote:

For this pattern , I am doing size M, I cast 106 sts, but after the rib, in the first row that increases a total of 8 its, if I follow all the diagrams, give me a total of 93 its, that is including the 4 its of the band for each side, so there is a discrepancy, Band 4 its + A1, 10 sts + A2 5 sts + 2 sts+ 8 sts + 2 sts + A3 6 sts + 2 times A1 20 sts + A2 5 sts + 2 sts + 8 sts + 2 sts + A3 6 sts +A4 9 sts + 4 sts band = 93 sts, but I cast 106? what I AM DOING WRONG?

06.09.2022 - 02:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rosa, When the rib is finished you decrease 13 sts, leaving 93 sts. This then fits the pattern you describe in your question. Happy knitting!

06.09.2022 - 06:55

country flag Miu wrote:

I am back to attempting this pattern again. I need your help again. In the YOKE section, I have done one increase of 8 stitches, please clarify that I PURL the next row? The pattern then says I do increase 23 times ( in L)and only increase every other row in the RS the diagram should have 46 rows, but the diagram only have 20 rows, how do I know where to do the pattern of (knit 2 together and YO for the pattern holes ( not the raglan increase)). Thanks for your help.

20.10.2021 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Miu, the 8 sts increased on first row explained are for the raglan, these yarn overs are purled twisted on next row - see RAGLAN - then continue in pattern following diagrams increasing for the raglan a total of 23 times on every RS row (= total 46 rows). When diagrams are done, repeat A.2/A.3 towards raglan sts on front and back pieces and work 1 extra repeat of A.1 before A.2/after A.3 on front and back pieces. Happy knitting!

21.10.2021 - 06:55

country flag Catalina wrote:

Hola, una vez acabado el raglán no entiendo la nota que sigue "Tejer la hilera siguiente por el lado revés de la manera siguiente: NOTA: Tejer algunos de los puntos (= 1-1-0-1-1-3 puntos) de las mangas en la aguja para el cuerpo, para que la transición entre el cuerpo y las mangas ya no sea en los hilos marcadores." No se como hacerlo si luego tengo que tejer los primeros 39 y deslizar 44. Me ayuda? Gracias

05.09.2021 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Catalina. Tienes que trabajar según el patrón: trabajar primero 39 puntos, deslizar sin trabajar 44 puntos, montar los puntos bajo la manga y etc. La nota es para avisarte que algunos puntos se desplazan de la manga al cuerpo para no tener agujeros en la línea de la transición.

06.09.2021 - 14:00

country flag Hege wrote:

Dette har vært en morsom jakke å strikke for meg som er noe uerfaren. Jeg har hele tiden holdt meg til oppskriften. MEN vrangbordene blir alt for vide hvis jeg skal øke antallet masker før vrangborden. De blir vide nok uten å øke antallet masker. Vrangborden i halsen er også alt for vid. Hva kan jeg gjøre med den? Den er starten på det hele og vanskelig å rekke opp. Bør jeg hekle en rad slik dere viser i videoen om å stramme inn vide vrangborder?

20.08.2021 - 07:45

country flag Mona wrote:

Ökningarna för raglan ska de göras på varje rätt varv? Mönstret ska väl också stickas på rätsidan? "Diagrammen visar alla varv i mönstret sett från rätsidan" står det i beskrivningen. När jag tittar på diagrammet så är det hela tiden 2 lika rader ovanpå varandra, motsvarar det ett avigt varv samt ett rätt varv?

22.01.2021 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona. Ja alla varv (både rätsidan och avigsidan) är med i diagrammet men alla varv visas sett från rätsidan. Mvh DROPS Design

28.01.2021 - 13:56

country flag Malene Reinholdt wrote:

Jeg ønsker å strikke denne fine jakke i et annet garn og ser på Drops Alpaca, som er fra garngruppe A. Går det om jeg bruker dobbelt tråd? Hvordan beregner jeg mengden (str L)?

30.09.2020 - 12:20

Awakening Spring Jacket



Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 202-31
DROPS design: Pattern w-759
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 27, peach

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm – for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6 pieces for all sizes

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.3). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 10.4. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 9th and 10th stitch and every 10th and 11th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side! 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.5 as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.5, knit 2 together, work A.5, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Increase 4 stitches on row as follows:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 177 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 35) = 4.8. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next row (wrong side) work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 2 knit stitches in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on sleeves and work them into pattern on front and back piece. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5 approx. 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm between each.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 102-106-114-118-126-130 stitches (including 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2½ cm - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Knit 1 row while decreasing 9-13-13-17-17-21 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 93-93-101-101-109-109 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work the 4 band stitches in each side in garter stitches).

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work in PATTERN - read explanation above, as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, A.2 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, A.3 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.1 over the next 20 stitches (= 2 repetitions), A.2 over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, A.3 over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.4 over the next 9 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). 8 stitches have been increased for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 18-22-23-26-28-30 times in total = 237-269-285-309-333-349 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When diagrams have been worked vertically, continue pattern the same way. I.e. work according to A.2/A.3 towards raglan line on front pieces and back piece, and there is now from for 1 more repetition of A.1 before A.2 and after A.3 on front pieces and back piece. Continue sleeves in stocking stitch. When all increases for raglan are done, piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Work next row from wrong side as follows:
NOTE: Work some of the stitches (= 1-1-0-1-1-3 stitches) on sleeves on to needle for body, so that the transition between body and sleeves are now longer at the marker threads.
Work the first 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches, slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64
stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 71-79-83-91-99-107 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 169-185-197-213-233-253 stitches. Work A.5 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves, 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and work as many repetitions lace pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 6 cm 2 times in total in all sizes = 177-193-205-221-241-261 stitches. Continue until piece measures 21 cm (adjust to finish after a lace pattern vertically + some rows in stocking stitch). Now increase 33-41-41-45-49-53 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 210-234-246-266-290-314 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on row, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve = 54-62-68-72-78-80 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and work A.5 over the middle 8 stitches under sleeve. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 stitches under sleeves - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease like this every 3 cm 5 times and every 4 cm 4 times (= 9 decreases in total).
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm 6 times and every 3 cm 6 times (= 12 decreases in total).
Size L: Decrease like this every 2 cm 14 times in total.
Size XL: Decrease like this every cm 8 times and every 2 cm 8 times (= 16 decreases in total).
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 times in total).
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 decreases in total).
When all decreases on sleeve are done there are 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on round. Continue until sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Now increase 8-6-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP-2 = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-34 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole

Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Do you need help with this pattern?

You'll find 24 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com.
Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store that sold you the yarn.

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site.

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #awakeningspringjacket or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.