DROPS / 202 / 31

Awakening Spring Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern w-759
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 27, peach

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm – for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.55£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.3). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 10.4. 
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 9th and 10th stitch and every 10th and 11th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side! 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.5 as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.5, knit 2 together, work A.5, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Increase 4 stitches on row as follows:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 177 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 35) = 4.8. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next row (wrong side) work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 2 knit stitches in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on sleeves and work them into pattern on front and back piece. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5 approx. 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 102-106-114-118-126-130 stitches (including 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2½ cm - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Knit 1 row while decreasing 9-13-13-17-17-21 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 93-93-101-101-109-109 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work the 4 band stitches in each side in garter stitches).

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work in PATTERN - read explanation above, as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 10 stitches, A.2 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, A.3 - choose diagram for your size, over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.1 over the next 20 stitches (= 2 repetitions), A.2 over the next 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 8, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, A.3 over the next 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches, A.4 over the next 9 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). 8 stitches have been increased for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 18-22-23-26-28-30 times in total = 237-269-285-309-333-349 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When diagrams have been worked vertically, continue pattern the same way. I.e. work according to A.2/A.3 towards raglan line on front pieces and back piece, and there is now from for 1 more repetition of A.1 before A.2 and after A.3 on front pieces and back piece. Continue sleeves in stocking stitch. When all increases for raglan are done, piece measures approx. 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Work next row from wrong side as follows:
NOTE: Work some of the stitches (= 1-1-0-1-1-3 stitches) on sleeves on to needle for body, so that the transition between body and sleeves are now longer at the marker threads.
Work the first 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches, slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64
stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 71-79-83-91-99-107 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 39-43-45-49-53-57 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 169-185-197-213-233-253 stitches. Work A.5 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves, 4 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and work as many repetitions lace pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.5 in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 6 cm 2 times in total in all sizes = 177-193-205-221-241-261 stitches. Continue until piece measures 21 cm (adjust to finish after a lace pattern vertically + some rows in stocking stitch). Now increase 35-41-41-45-49-53 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 212-234-246-266-290-314 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) until 6 stitches remain on row, knit 2, 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 44-52-56-60-64-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve = 54-62-68-72-78-80 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and work A.5 over the middle 8 stitches under sleeve. When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 2 stitches under sleeves - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease like this every 3 cm 5 times and every 4 cm 4 times (= 9 decreases in total).
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm 6 times and every 3 cm 6 times (= 12 decreases in total).
Size L: Decrease like this every 2 cm 14 times in total.
Size XL: Decrease like this every cm 8 times and every 2 cm 8 times (= 16 decreases in total).
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 times in total).
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm 9 times and every 2 cm 9 times (= 18 decreases in total).
When all decreases on sleeve are done there are 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on round. Continue until sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Now increase 8-6-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP-2 = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-36-34 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole




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