DROPS / 199 / 21

Rivage Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-855
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 7120, light greyish green

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-6-6-7-7 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.5, A.6 and A.7). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
All increases are done from the right side.
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 134 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining 124 stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 26) = 4.7. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase over bands. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves as follows: Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 8 stitches increased in total on row)
On next row (wrong side) purl the yarn over to make a hole. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on body and in lace pattern on sleeves. 

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker thread and 4 stitches increased in total on row). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side when edge in garter stitch in the neck has been worked. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 8-8-8½-9-8-8 cm apart.
1 BUTTONHOLE = decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit last stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 130-134-138-142-148-156 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Alpaca. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 6-26-22-38-32-44 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band = 136-160-160-180-180-200 stitches. Purl 1 row (work bands in garter stitch and purl yarn overs twisted). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 4 marker threads in piece as explained below (without working the stitches). Use marker threads when increasing for raglan.
Count 25-31-31-36-36-41 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 23 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 40-52-52-62-62-72 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 23 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before next stitch. There are 25-31-31-36-36-41 stitches after last marker thread on front piece.
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, increase for RAGLAN on each side of marker thread – read explanation above, work A.1 over the next 21 stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains before next marker thread (= back piece), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work A.1 over the 21 stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of marker thread, work in stocking stitch until 5 stitches remain on row and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece).
Continue pattern like this with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, stocking stitch on front and back piece and A.1 on sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME continue increase for raglan on every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) until increase has been done 25-25-31-31-37-37 times in total at every marker thread (including increase explained on first row). Work the new stitch in stocking stitch on front and back piece and in lace pattern the way diagrams show on sleeves.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue lace pattern on sleeves as explained below:
LACE PATTERN SLEEVE:
SIZE S and M: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.6 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.
SIZE L and XL: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.
SIZE XXL and XXXL: When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 24 stitches (= 2 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.2 (= 13 stitches), work A.3 over the next 48 stitches (= 4 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.4 (= 8 stitches). When A.2 to A.4 have been worked, work next row as follows over stitches on sleeves: Work A.5 (= 13 stitches), work A.6 over the next 72 stitches (= 6 repetition of 12 stitches), and finish with A.7 (= 8 stitches). When last row in A.5 to A.7 remain, divide yoke for body and sleeves as explained below ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
When increases for raglan are done, there are 336-360-408-428-476-496 stitches on round. Continue lace pattern as explained above until last row in A.5 and A.7 remains.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves and work last row as follows from wrong side: Work the first 54-57-64-67-77-81 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 98-104-118-124-144-152 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 54-57-64-67-77-81 stitches as before (= front piece). Yoke measures now approx. 20-20-24-24-27-27 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Remove the marker threads in piece. Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 222-234-262-278-318-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Continue back and forth in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
When piece measures 4 cm from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5 cm 5 times in total in all sizes = 242-254-282-298-338-358 stitches. Work until piece measures approx. 28-30-28-30-29-31 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 2 cm remain until finished measurements). Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 58-62-70-74-82-86 stitches evenly = 300-316-352-372-420-444 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib to be worked, from contracting.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work next row as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 2 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-71-81-85-89-91 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 73-79-89-95-99-103 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-12 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work as follows: Work 4-7-6-9-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.8 (= 5 stitches), work A.3 over the next 60-60-72-72-84-84 stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repetitions of 12 stitches) and finish with 4-7-6-9-5-7 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue pattern like this (the lace pattern continues nicely over sleeve).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm 11-13-17-19-20-21 times in total = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches - NOTE: Work stitches that do not fit the lace pattern when decreasing under sleeve, in stocking stitch.
Work until piece measures approx. 40-40-37-37-35-35 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements). NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while increasing 17-15-17-19-17-19 stitches evenly = 68-68-72-76-76-80 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib to be worked, from contracting. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sleeve measures approx. 44-44-41-41-39-39 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked







Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Nicki 04.12.2019 - 23:23:

Thank you for your earlier reply. It will be very helpful when I reach the division for sleeve/body. My query refers to the bit after finishing the raglan increases and before completing the 3rd set of lace (size L A5, 4xA3, A7) on the sleeves in the yoke. In line 17 of 3rd set of lace (or line 65 from cuff), 31 raglan increases have made 85 stitches in the sleeve. The lace pattern diagram is only for 83 stitches and so I have 2 extra stitches. Have I done something wrong?

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 15:57:

Dear Nicky, sorry for late answer, when working the "lace pattern sleeve", you will always work K1 before/after the lace pattern, increasing first after this K1 at the beg of sleeve and before this K1 at the end of sleeve, then when all increases are done, just work: K1, A.5, A.3, A.7, K1 = 85 sts in size L. Happy knitting!

Nicki 03.12.2019 - 19:36:

Hi. Not sure if I've done something wrong. On completion of the raglan section for size L the diagrams show: 83 (A5(20) +A3x4(48)+A7(15) stitches for each sleeve. However, I have 85 stitches for each sleeve so the continuing lace pattern doesn't work for me. After 31 raglan increases my maths makes it: Front sides 62 (31+31) x 2; Sleeves 85 (23+31+31) x 2; Back 114 (52+31+31) = 408. Can you help me out please?

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 08:30:

Dear Nicky, when dividing piece for body/sleeves, you will take 2 sts from the sleeve on each side for front piece/back piece, ie: front piece = 31+31+2 (from the 31 sts inc on sleeve) = 64 sts; sleeves = 29 (remaining from the 31 sts inc on sleeve) +23+29 (from the 31 sts inc on sleeve)=81 sts; back piece = 2 (from the 31 sts inc on sleeve) +31+52+31+2 (from the 31 sts inc on sleeve)=118 sts. Happy knitting!

Bien Foutu 02.10.2019 - 18:24:

Vielen Dank für Ihre Antworten. Jacke fertig. Sieht toll aus :)

Blanche 17.09.2019 - 18:42:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter ce gilet en taille S. Il est indiqué de démarrer avec 23 mailles pour la manche et d'ajouter 25 fois une augmentation de chaque côté, ce qui fait obtenir 23 + 50= 73 mailles. Si l'on met en attente 65 m. pour la manche, que faire des 8 autres? Merci de votre réponse, Cordialement, Blanche.

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 07:57:

Bonjour Blanche, les 4 premières mailles de la manche seront tricotées pour le devant/le dos et les 4 dernières mailles de la manche seront tricotées pour le dos/le devant, on aura ainsi: 50 m devant + 4 m manche = 54 m pour chaque devant et 90 m dos + les 4 dernières m de la 1ère manche + les 4 premières m de la 2ème manche = 98 m. Bon tricot!

Bien Foutou 10.09.2019 - 21:20:

Den Ärmel stricke ich in Runden RECHTS? D. h. Nun stricke ich das Lochmuster in rechts, statt wie zu Beginn in den linken Rückreihen?

DROPS Design 11.09.2019 kl. 07:59:

Liebe Frau Bien Foutu, die Ärmel werden in Runden glatt rechts und im Muster gestrickt, Glatt rechts in der Runde strickt man mit nur rechten Maschen und die leeren Kästchen in den Diagrammen werden dann immer rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bien 05.09.2019 - 22:07:

Schon gefunden. Brille zurechtgerückt😊

Bien 05.09.2019 - 22:05:

Hallo. Wenn ich die Ärmelmaschen wieder aufnehme, wie stricke ich das Muster weiter. Ich finde die Anleitung für das Muster in den Ärmeln nicht. Danke für Ihre Antwort.

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 07:56:

Liebe Frau Bien, die Ärmel stricken Sie mit Diagram A.8, es befindet sich unter A.2 . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bien 25.08.2019 - 11:53:

Hallo. Ich verstehe das Musterdiagramm offensichtlich nicht. Ich stricke das Muster in den linken Rückreihen? Aber wenn ich bei L - XL A2 - A4 stricke, dann stricke ich es ja umgekehrt - also A4 - A2.

Tiziana 19.03.2019 - 14:15:

Devo segnalare un altro problema. Alla fine dello sprone, quando devo dividere le maglie, mi ritrovo 50 per ogni lato del davanti, 73 per ogni manica e 90 per il dietro. Ho controllato il testo e prendendo ad esempio le maniche, 23 punti di partenza più 50 di aumenti in tutto per il raglan fa 73, poi però quando devo dividere, il testo mi dice di prendere 65 per manica. Grazie.

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