DROPS Design: Pattern no as-104
Yarn group C or A + A

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 19, curry
75-75-75-100-100-100 g colour 01, off white
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 12, powder pink
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 14, light grey green
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 13, denim blue

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 4 items in all sizes.

15 stitches in width and 24 rows in height with moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm with needle size 6 mm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for moss stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 08, 01, 09, 12, 04.
B) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 04, 01, 14, 02, 05.
C) DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk 15, 01, 05, 13, 17.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



MOSS STITCH (worked in the round):
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1*, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat round 2 onwards.

MOSS STITCH (worked back and forth):
Row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat row 2 onwards.

Work 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm light grey green, 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm off-white, 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm powder pink and then finish with denim blue = 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm.

Work 4.5 cm off-white, 3 cm curry, 4.5 cm off-white, 3 cm curry, 4.5 cm off-white and 3 cm curry.

The outermost 6 stitches towards mid front = bands. Work as follows:
Knit the 5 outermost stitches towards mid front on all rows and the 6th stitch is worked in stocking stitch seen from the right side.

Decrease only from the right side, inside the bands towards mid front as follows:
Knit 5, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

Decrease only from the right side, inside the bands towards mid front as follows:
Work moss stitch until there are 7 stitches left on row. Decrease 1 stitch by knitting together the 7th and 6th stitch. Knit the remaining 5 stitches.

Knit together the 3 middle stitches under the sleeve (= 2 stitches decreased).

Work 2 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Work 1 stitch but do not slip this stitch off the left needle, work 1 more stitch in same stitch - working in the back loop this time = 1 stitch increased.

INCREASE TIP-2: (evenly spaced at bottom of sleeve):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 2.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave a small hole.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Cast off the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge. On the next row cast on 2 new stitches over the cast-off stitches.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures approx.:
S: 1, 10, 19 and 28 cm
M: 1.5, 10.5, 19.5 and 28.5 cm
L: 1, 10.5, 20 and 29.5 cm
XL: 1, 11, 21 and 31 cm
XXL: 1, 11, 21 and 31 cm
XXXL: 1.5, 11.5, 21.5 and 31.5 cm

To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle; or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off( yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).




Front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles or short circular needle, bottom up.

Cast on 66-72-78-86-94-104 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and curry. Work rib ( = knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Change to circular needle size 6 mm and light grey green and continue with MOSS STITCH – read description above – AT THE SAME TIME as you work STRIPES BODY – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm increase 1 stitch on each side for sleeve-seams – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 68-74-80-88-96-106 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm work garter stitch over the middle 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches; the remaining stitches are continued in moss stitch as before. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm cast off the middle 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches and each shoulder is finished separately = 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches on each shoulder.
Continue with garter stitch over the outermost 6 stitches towards the neck and moss stitch over the other stitches. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP above. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

When working the right front piece you also work buttonholes on the band – read description above.
Cast on 39-42-45-49-53-58 stitches (including 6 band stitches) with circular needle size 4 mm and curry. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm at the same time as you work BANDS – read description above. After the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 6 mm, light grey green and work MOSS STITCH, STRIPES BODY and BANDS onwards.
When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-31-32 cm start to decrease to V-neck: Decrease 1 stitch every 1 cm a total of 19-19-20-20-21-21 times - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 20-23-25-29-32-37 stitches on needle - AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm increase 1 stitch for the sleeve-seam, outermost towards the armhole - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches.
When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP above.

Work as for right front piece, but without buttonholes and with the band at the other end of the row. At V-neck, read DECREASE TIP-2.

Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and curry. Work rib ( = knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and off-white and knit 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-22-22-22-20-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 60-60-62-64-64-66 stitches. Continue with MOSS STITCH and STRIPES SLEEVES – read description above. When STRIPES SLEEVES are finished continue with off-white to finished length.
When the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-3, repeat this decrease every 4-6-5-5-0-0 cm a total of 4-3-2-2-0-0 times = 52-54-58-60-64-66 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 52-52-51-49-47-45 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders) and then loosely cast off the remaining stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Sew the pieces together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seams are flat - the bands on each front piece are sewn to the garter stitch along the neck on the back piece. Sew sleeves to body inside the 1 edge stitch on the front and back pieces. Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.11.2021
Correction: The yarn amount has been edited in all sizes. The stripes for body has been edited in size XL.


diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag VU wrote:

Je souhaiterais faire ce gilet en une seule couleur. Pourriez-vous m’indiquer combien de pelotes faudra-t-il que j’achète. Merci pour votre aide.

26.11.2021 - 14:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vu, malheureusement, nous avons seulement la quantité indiquée, c'est-à-dire avec les rayures, et nous n'avons plus le gilet pour vérifier. Vous pouvez additionner les couleurs, vous aurez fort probablement besoin de moins, votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone, n'hésitez pas à le contacter. Bon tricot!

26.11.2021 kl. 15:56:

country flag Fouillet wrote:

Bonjour, Puis je travailler ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites ? En vous remerciant Bien cdt Aurore Fouillet

15.10.2021 - 15:18:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fouillet, tout à fait, vous trouverez dans cette leçon quelques astuces pour les manches. Bon tricot!

15.10.2021 kl. 16:18:

country flag Line Souline Elvien wrote:

I str XL står der striberne på kroppen skal være 12 cm, men det giver ikke logisk mening, da det er kortere end størrelse L. Hvor mange cm skal striberne være?

12.05.2021 - 15:02:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, så er striberne i XL rettet. Tak for info :)

14.05.2021 kl. 09:05:

country flag Kristine wrote:

Strikkes denne med enkelt eller dobbelt garn?

07.03.2021 - 19:44:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristine, Denne jakken er strikket med enkelt garn. God fornøyelse!

08.03.2021 kl. 07:11:

country flag Rita Brobak Sørensen wrote:

Jeg synes der er rigeligt med garn, skulle tro den skal strikkes med dobbelt garn????

05.08.2020 - 18:03:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita, Vi skal se på garnforbruget igen. :)

06.08.2020 kl. 08:28:

country flag Ina wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, obwohl ich mich genau an die angegebene Garnmenge und an die Anleitung gehalten habe, bleibt gut die Hälfte des Garnes übrig. War es für 2- fädiges Stricken berechnet? Das ist ärgerlich, weil ich es nicht zurückgeben kann.

10.07.2020 - 16:24:

country flag Sandra Janssen wrote:

Dag, Ik brei liever niet in gerstekorrel maar wil wel graag dit model maken in gewone tricotsteek. Moet ik aanpassingen doen in aantal steken en hoeveelheid garen?

01.06.2020 - 16:21:

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sandra,

Nee, tricotsteek heeft ongeveer dezelfde stekenverhouding als gerstekorrel, dus je kunt gewoon het patroon volgen.

05.06.2020 kl. 12:16:

country flag Malene Holm Patzer wrote:

Hej. Modellen er skøn, men jeg ønsker ikke at strikke den i perlestrik, vil det påvirke størrelsen meget? Tak:-)

23.03.2020 - 10:35:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Malene. Strikkefastheten i denne oppskriften er oppgitt til 15 masker i bredden og 24 pinner i høyden med perlestrikk = 10 x 10 cm på pinne nr 6. Det er en annen strikkefasthet ved glattstrikk (færre pinner i høyden), så ja, det vil påvirke størrelsen og de oppgitte målene i oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

23.03.2020 kl. 16:26:

country flag Mummi wrote:

What is the total amount of yarn used here? Planning to make this jacket single-coloured.

19.11.2019 - 16:25:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mummi, depending on the size, this jacket needs 150-230 grammof Brushed Alpaca silk yarn. Forother substitution please use our yarn converter here. Happy Knitting!

20.11.2019 kl. 02:51:

country flag Margrethe Mogensen wrote:

Undrer mig over garnforbruget. Skulle den have været strikket med dobbelt garn?

15.04.2019 - 17:25:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Margrethe, Modellen strikkes ret løst med enkelt tråd. Husk at DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk ligger i 25 g/nøgle. God fornøjelse!

03.05.2019 kl. 10:25:

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.