DROPS / 195 / 21

Sira by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Polaris. Piece is knitted top down with high collar and Nordic pattern in moss stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern po-106
Yarn group F or E + E

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group F)
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour 04, medium grey
200-200-200-200-200-200 g colour 01, off white
200-300-300-300-300-400 g colour 03, dark grey

7 stitches in width and 8 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 15 mm, length 60 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.10 £ /100g
DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 4.10 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Polaris mix DROPS Polaris mix 4.70 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.


TIP FOR CHANGING YARN (applies when working with Polaris):
When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the strand switch invisible in the yarn.

To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 36 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 9.
In this example decrease by work every 8th and 9th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after every 9th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

If working in the round on a circular needle that is too long for number of stitches, you may do as follows: The circular needle should be long with a flexible wire. Move the stitches to the middle of the wire. Divide the stitches in the middle and pull wire out between the stitches. Move the stitches to the needle tips in each side, make sure not to twist the stitches. Yarn end used for working is on the back needle and begin working on the front needle. Pull out the back needle to work the stitches on the front needle. When stitches on front needle have been worked, turn and move stitches back on the empty needle and work the other side the same way. Continue in the round like this, make sure to always pull needle out on the other side where the yarn is.

See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to body):
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
NOTE: To get the decrease alternately in right and left side of piece, decrease as follows:
In size S, M and L decrease alternately at the beginning and end of row with decrease.
In size XL, XXL and XXXL decrease at the beginning of every row with decrease (alternately from right side and from wrong side).
Decrease as follows from right side: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows from wrong side: Purl 2 together.




Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished. Read TIP FOR CHANGING YARN.

Cast on 36-36-40-40-44-48 stitches on circular needle size 15 mm with dark grey. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 9 cm. Knit 1 round while at the same time decrease 4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 32-32-36-36-40-44 stitches. NOTE: We do not have circular needles shorter than 60 cm in needle size 15 mm in our selection.
Due to the decrease the circumference in piece is now less than 60 cm in size S - XXL. Continue therefore with MAGIC LOOP – read explanation above, until enough stitches have been increased to use circular needle size 60 or 80 cm.

Now work pattern A.1 in the round (= 8-8-9-9-10-11 repetitions of 4 stitches). Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 96-112-117-126-140-154 stitches on round and piece measures approx. 20-25-25-28-30-33 cm from after the neck. Continue with stocking stitch and medium grey but without increases until piece measures 24-25-27-29-31-33 cm after the neck. Knit 1 round with medium grey while adjusting number of stitches to 100-112-116-128-136-156 - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP.
Work next round in stocking stitch as follows:
Work 15-16-17-19-20-23 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 30-32-34-38-40-46 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 15-16-17-19-20-23 stitches (= half back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

= 68-72-76-84-92-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 4-4-4-4-6-6 new stitches that were cast on under each sleeve. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later. Continue in stocking stitch and medium grey. When piece measures 5 cm from division, increase 1 stitch before marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Continue to increase as follows:
When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.
When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch before each marker thread.
When piece measures 12 cm, increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.
In size M and XXXL continue increase as follows:
When piece measures 14 cm, increase 1 stitch before each marker thread.
When piece measures 16 cm, increase 1 stitch after each marker thread.

There are now 76-84-84-92-100-116 stitches on round. Continue in the round in stocking stitch and medium grey until piece measures 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm from division. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder.

Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished. Slip the 20-24-24-26-28-32 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle needles size 15 mm and cast on 2-2-2-2-3-3 new stitches in each side = 24-28-28-30-34-38 stitches. Work in stocking stitch back and forth over all stitches with medium grey. When piece measures 4-4-2-4-4-2 cm, decrease 1 stitch in the right side of piece - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease alternately in the left and right side of piece every 2nd-2nd-2nd-1st-1st-1st row 8-12-12-14-14-18 times in total (= 4-6-6-7-7-9 times in each side) = 16-16-16-16-20-20 stitches. Work until piece measures 33-33-31-30-27-25 cm from division (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew seams under sleeves in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew the opening under the sleeves.


= knit with off white
= purl with off white
= knit with medium grey
= purl with medium grey
= knit with dark grey
= purl with dark grey
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Irene Van Vuure 23.09.2020 - 08:43:

I have a question about the knitting pattern. I hope you can help me. I knit No. 195-21. I have worked pattern A1 in the round. It says that the knit should measure 25 cm after the neck. What's the meaning of this? Is that from the 1st row or after the hem? I'd love to hear it!

DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 13:54:

Dear Mrs Van Vuure, measure from the beg of yoke, ie after rib on neck edge (measure on mid front). Happy knitting!

Maia Mygdam Mikkelsen 07.04.2020 - 11:40:

Hvordan tager man masker ud, uden at ødelægge mønsteret, på den pind i diagrammet, hvor man strikker skiftevis 1 maske natur og 1 maske mørk grå?

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 13:42:

Hej Maia, det kommer ikke til at gøre noget, du skal lave et omslag med mørkegrå efter hver 10 maske, omslagene strikkes i mørkegrå på næste pind. God fornøjelse!

Hanne 12.07.2019 - 11:39:

Er der et alternativ til Polaris ?

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 12:57:

Hei Hanne. Du kan feks bruke 2 tråder Eskimo eller 2 tråder Andes. I garnkalkulatoren vår (som du finner rett under materialene i oppskriften) vil du få opp garnmengden du trenger i de alternative kvalitetene. God fornøyelse

Elize Moolman 10.04.2019 - 09:59:

Please help at collar end it say knit 1 round while decrease 4 stitches evenly, should it not be increase rather than decrease, I include a photo of my knitting and where I struggle

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 10:22:

Dear Mrs Moolman, when you have worked the 9 cm ribbing, you knit one round while decreasing 4 sts evenly = there are now 32-32-36-36-40-44 sts. Now work A.1 increasing as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

Rebe Bar 24.03.2019 - 21:28:

Me gustan

Åse 22.03.2019 - 14:05:

Hei. Hvorfor står det strikkepinner nr 15 på oppskriften, men på garnet anbefales nr 12? Drops Polaris

DROPS Design 26.03.2019 kl. 15:05:

Hei Åse. Det har med strikkefatsheten å gjøre. Til denne oppskriften skal strikkefastheten være 7 masker i bredden og 8 pinner i høyden med glattstrikk = 10 x 10 cm, og da må du nok bruke tykkere pinner enn pinne 12. Det er alltid strikkefatsheten som avgjør hvilken pinnestørrelse du trenger. Strikkefasthet er individuel og da brukes pinnestørrelse for å justere opp eller ned slik at DIN strikkefasthet stemmer overens med det som står i oppskriften. Det pinnenummer vi oppgir er kun veiledende, det er strikkefastheten som må overholdes. God fornøyelse.

Mary Hiley 26.02.2019 - 22:26:

Thank you for you previousreple. If reading each row of the chart from right to left we find 2yo’ s together ar the end and beginning of rows 2-3 and 3-4. This sounds as though it will leave a big hole. Please clarify.

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 06:35:

Hi Mary, In each repeat of the rows in the diagram there is just 1 yarn over, either at the beginning or end of each repeat in width, depending on which row you are on. So there will not be 2 yarn overs next to each other in the pattern. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid any holes. Happy knitting!

Mary Hiley 22.02.2019 - 15:52:

Couple of things. Is the chart for Siri 195-21 to be read back and forth or just right to left?? This affects the lacement of the yarn overs. The stitch count doesn’t seem to work out! The pattern says that when the chart has been completed for M size you should have 112 But the number at the top of the chart says 12 ( which tallies with the number of increases) worked in 8 sections making only 96.

DROPS Design 22.02.2019 kl. 16:39:

Dear Mrs Hiley, diagram A.1 is worked in the round, ie you will read every row from the right towards the left (starting on the bottom corner on the right side). In size M you ahve 32 sts and repeat the 4 sts on row 1 in A.1 a total of 8 times = 32 sts. When A.1 is done, there are 14 sts in each A.1 x 8 repeats = 112 sts. Happy knitting!

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