DROPS / 201 / 28

My Wildflower by DROPS Design

Crocheted long jacket in DROPS Big Delight. Piece is crocheted with stripes and crochet squares. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern db-100
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-500-600 g colour 02, summer meadow
300-400-500 g colour 13, grey

CROCHET TENSION:
4 repetitions of A.3b in width and 7 rows of A.3b vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
1 crochet square measures 16 x 16 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.60 £ /100g
DROPS Big Delight print DROPS Big Delight print 4.60 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET TIP:
When working triple treble crochets at the beginning of row, work 5 chain stitches instead of 3 chain stitches at the beginning of row.

STRIPES-1:
* Work 1 round with grey, 1 round with summer meadow *, work from *-*.

STRIPES-2:
Row from right side (3 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch): summer meadow.
Row from wrong side (1 treble crochet + 4 chain stitches): grey.

COLOUR CHANGE:
When working diagrams A.1 and A.2 you crochet stripes in the round, every other stripe in each colour. To avoid having to cut the strand after every round, the strand you’re not currently working with can be pulled along until the next round.
When working stripes back and forth the strand needs to be cut and fastened after every row.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work first 12 crochet squares in total. For front pieces work 4 square together into one long strip. For back piece work 4 squares together into a square, then work down along body and up towards shoulders. When front and back pieces are done, sew shoulder together before working outwards in each side for body and sleeves. Then work collar and band.

CROCHET SQUARES:
Work 4 chain stitches with grey on hook size 5 mm and form a ring with a slip stitch in first chain stitch. Now work STRIPES-1 - see explanation above, and A.1 4 times in total on round (A.2 shown how round begins and ends). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically, crochet square measures approx. 16 x 16 cm. Work 12 crochet squares in total.

SQUARE ASSEMBLY:
Back piece: Work 4 crochet squares together into a large square - see illustration with black dot. Place 2 crochet squares with right side against right side and work together from wrong side through both layers with grey as follows: Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner. 2 of the crochet squares are now worked together. Work the other 2 together the same way. Now work the squares together so that there are 2 squares in width and 2 squares vertically: Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet on next crochet square, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner.
Right and left front piece: Work 4 crochet squares into a strip to get 4 x 1 crochet square - see illustration with cross. Place 2 crochet squares with right side against right side and work together from wrong side through both layers with grey as follows: Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain space *, work from *-* 5 times in total, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner. 2 of the crochet square are now worked together. Work the other crochet squares together to form a long strip of 1 x 4 crochet squares. Work the other front piece the same way.

BACK PIECE:
Work down the back as follows:
Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in the corner with white star - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a to A.3c as follows: Work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 11 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in stitch in the corner. Continue back and forth and repeat the 2 last rows in A.3a - A.3c until piece measures 26 cm from crochet squares – adjust to finish after a row that equals 2nd row in A.3a - A.3c.
Now work chain spaces down along the side of rows with A.3a from wrong side and with grey as follows: Work * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 2½ cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* evenly until 10 chain spaces have been worked along the side on back piece up to first crochet square (with white star). Cut the yarn and repeat in the other side.
Work shoulder in opposite side of the 4 crochet squares as follows: Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in the corner with black star - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a - A.3c as follows: Work A.3a around first chain space, work A.3b around each of the next 11 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in the corner. Continue back and forth until entire diagram has been worked vertically 1 time. Now work left shoulder from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: A.3c, A.3b 3 times in total, A.3a. Turn and work last row from right side. Cut the strand and work right shoulder from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Skip 4 treble crochet groups for neck and fasten yarn (grey) with 1 double crochet around next chain stitch. Work A.3c, A.3b 3 times in total, A.3a. Turn and work last row from right side. Cut the yarn. The back piece is finished.

RIGHT AND LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Now work 1 row upwards towards the shoulder, along one square at the end of strip with 4 crochet squares. Begin with summer meadow and work from right side. Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in corner, work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 5 chain spaces, finish with A.3c in the corner. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work left front piece the same way as on right front piece.

SHOULDER ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Start the seam on the outermost end of the shoulder and sew towards the neck, one stitch at a time.

RIGHT SIDE AND SLEEVE:
Begin with summer meadow and from right side. Fasten strand with a double crochet in the corner with circle - see chart. Work STRIPES-2 and pattern from first row in A.3a - A.3c as follows:
Work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 9 chain spaces, continue with A.3b around each chain space along each of the next 2 crochet squares on back piece (= 12 repetitions A.3b), work 3 repetitions A.3b evenly up to shoulder seam and 1 repetition A.3b in last row on front piece, continue with A.3b in every chain space along each crochet square on front piece (= 24 repetitions A.3b), finish with A.3c in the corner at the bottom of front piece. There are now 1 repetition A.3a, 49 repetitions A.3b and 1 repetition A.3c along the side of piece.
When entire A.3a – A.3c have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows the same way, but on 2nd row in diagrams work the first 8 treble crochets as triple treble crochets – read CROCHET TIP, work the next 6 treble crochets as double treble crochets, work the next 22 treble crochets as treble crochets as before, work the next 6 treble crochets as double treble crochets, work the last 8 treble crochets as triple treble crochets (work 3rd row as shown in diagram). Continue back and forth the same way (ie: on row 2 in the diagram you work triple treble crochets and double treble crochets in the beginning and end of row as explained, and row 3 is worked as before) until piece measures 13-17-25 cm at the bottom of front and back piece - adjust to finish after 3rd row in diagram. Cut the yarn.
Now work sleeve, begin from wrong side: Skip the first 15-15-14 treble crochet groups (= A.3a/A.3b). Fasten strand (grey) with 1 double crochet around next chain stitch, work 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around the same chain stitch (= A.3c), A.3b 19 times in total, A.3c. Turn and work 3rd row back from right side - continue STRIPES-2 as before. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures approx. 48-50-52 cm from crochet squares – adjust to finish after a row from right side. Cut the yarn.

LEFT SIDE AND SLEEVE:
Work left side and sleeve the same way as on right side and sleeve but begin from right side in the corner at the bottom of front piece instead of back piece - adjust measurements according to right side and sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the jacket so that right side is against right side and work through both layer from wrong side with summer meadow as follows:
Begin at the bottom of sleeve with a double crochet, * work 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, work 1 double crochet *, work from *-* under sleeve and down along the side. Cut the yarn. Repeat in the other side.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF BODY:
Begin from right side at the bottom of front piece towards mid front and work with summer meadow as follows:
Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in stitch in the corner, work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 5 chain spaces, work A.3b evenly 11-14-20 times along the piece until part on back piece worked down on the 4 crochet squares at the back, work A.3b 12 times in total as before over the next 12 repetitions on back piece, work A.3b 11-14-20 times along the side of until crochet square on front piece, work A.3b 6 times in total along crochet square and finish with A.3c around stitches in the corner. There are now 1 repetition A.3a, 45-51-63 repetitions A.3b and 1 repetition A.3c on row. Continue back and forth with the 2 last rows in diagram (continue STRIPES-2 as before) until edge measures 4-8-12 cm from crochet squares on front piece - adjust to finish after last row in diagrams. Cut the yarn.

COLLAR:
Work collar back and forth in 1 part from left front piece and sew to neck and right front piece when finished. Work entire collar in summer meadow. Begin from right side with 1 double crochet on the inside at left shoulder seam (towards the neck) on left front piece and work from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: A.4a, A.4b, A.4c (work 2nd row from right side and 3rd row from wrong side). Continue back and forth like this and repeat the last 2 rows until 20 rows have been worked vertically. Then work the next to last row in diagram one more time. Cut the yarn. Sew the last row worked to the edge at the top on right front piece and sew collar along the back of neck (sew with small stitches to avoid a chunky seam).

BAND:
Begin from right side with summer meadow in the corner at the bottom of front piece. Work 1 double crochet around bottom row on the edge, work 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around next row along the edge (= A.3a), work 0-1-2 repetitions A.3b evenly up to first crochet square, continue with A.3b around every chain space along each of the 4 crochet squares on right front piece (= 6 repetitions A.3b along each of the crochet squares), continue with 1 repetition A.3b around every row along the collar (= 20 repetitions), continue down along left band the same way as on right band. When entire A.3a to A.3b have worked vertically, the band is done. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.03.2019
Diagram A.4 is updated

Diagram

= Begin here - this chain stitch ring is explained in the pattern (4 chain stitches + 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch). Begin first round at the point on circle
= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch ring/chain space
= 1 half treble crochet around chain space
= 1 treble crochet around chain space
= 1 double treble crochet around chain space
= work 2 treble crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= work 3 double treble crochets together as follows: * Make 2 yarn over, insert hook in stitch, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* 2 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= work 2 triple treble crochets together as follows: * Make 3 yarn overs, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook, make a yarn over and pull yarn through the the next 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= work 2 quadruple treble crochets together as follows: * Make 4 yarn overs, insert hook around chain space, pick up yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the next 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round
= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle of first chain stitch space
= round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first chain stitch) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle of first chain space
= round begins with 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
= round begins with 4 chain stitches (replace first double treble crochet) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches up to first chain space
= begin here when working downwards on body on back piece
= begin here when working upwards towards the shoulders on back piece
= begin here when right side and sleeve are worked
= illustration shows how the 4 crochet squares are worked together for back piece
= illustration shows how the 4 crochet squares are worked together for front pieces
= crochet direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 201-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Monika 07.12.2020 - 19:03:

Hallo. Ich häkel 201-28. Frage zu "rechte Seite und Ärmel". Mit welcher Reihe ende ich die Zunahme am Seitenteil? Es steht : ..dass nach der 3. Reihe der Diagramme geendet wird.... Heißt das, Stäbchen, 4 Luftmaschen, Stäbchen, 4 Luftmaschen in grau??? LG

DROPS Design 08.12.2020 kl. 08:36:

Liebe Monika, die 3. Reihe im A.3 ist die mit der Zahl 3 = 4 Lm, 3 Stb um jeden Luftmaschenbogen und 1 Lm zwischen jeder 3-Stb-Gruppe, enden Sie mit 1 Stb in das 1. Stb. vom vorrigen Reihe. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Monika 07.12.2020 - 11:10:

Ich häkel gerade 201-28. Das Diagramm A3a-A3c besteht aus 3 Reihen. Soll das heißen, dass ich als 4. Reihe wieder unten (1.Reihe) anfange oder die 2. Rückreihe häkel? Außerdem steht bei "Rechte Seite und Ärmel" : wenn A3a-A3c in der Höhe zu Ende gehäkelt wurde.. soll das heißen, drei Reihen wie im Diagramm? Danach: die letzten 2 Reihen ebenso häkeln..WELCHE letzten 2 Reihen? 2. und 3. Reihe vom Diagramm?

DROPS Design 07.12.2020 kl. 15:47:

Liebe Monika, wenn Sie A.3 häkeln, häkeln Sie zuerst die 3 Reihen im Diagram dann wiederholen Sie die 2 letzten Reihen = Reihe 2 + 3, dh als 4. Reihe häkeln Sie wie bei der 2. und bei als 5. Reihe häkeln Sie wie bei der 3. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Nathalie 07.10.2020 - 07:35:

Le diagramme pour les carré est il complet ? Je pensais qu'il y aurai les explications écrite avec ? C'est pour cela que je n'arripas à le comprendre

DROPS Design 07.10.2020 kl. 08:42:

Bonjour Nathalie, le diagramme des carrés correspond à A.1 (avec A.2 en début de tour) et pour faire un carré, vous devez répéter 4 fois A.1 en rond (= 4 coins pour le carré) - cf CARRÉS dans les explications et légende du diagramme. Bon crochet!

Nathalie 06.10.2020 - 11:49:

Bonjour serait il possible d'avoir un diagramme plus explicite pour les carrés je n'arrive pas trop à comprendre merci d'avance Bonne journée

DROPS Design 06.10.2020 kl. 13:03:

Bonjour Nathalie, nous n'avons pas d'autre diagramme, toutefois, vous pourrez trouver ici comment lire un diagramme crochet. Bon crochet!

Lauranne Crickx 25.08.2020 - 15:33:

Bonjour, je comprends pas le col du tout . Déjà ce qui m'ennuie c'est de commencer le tour avec 2ml et le finir avec une double bride. Ca va pas faire une sacrée différence ? Ensuite commencer sur l'endroit à partir du côté gauche bah j'y arrive pas c'est pas possible si je commence de la gauche je dois travailler sur l'envers. Et puis il y a combien de fois A4b à répéter ? Bref jusque là c'était bon mais ici j'y comprends plus rien.

DROPS Design 25.08.2020 kl. 16:27:

Bonjour Mme Crickx, le col se crochète en allers et retours à partir du long du devant gauche, sur l'endroit, on coudra le dernier rang le long du devant droit et le côté des rangs le long du col sera cousu le long de l'encolure dos. Si vous trouvez que les débuts de rangs sont un peu serrés, vous pouvez volontiers ajuster le nombre de mailles en l'air. Bon crochet!

Jill Voiles 16.05.2020 - 16:17:

I love the beautiful patterns

DROPS Design 17.05.2020 kl. 08:56:

Dear Jill, we are happy you like our patterns, that is why we work so hard on them. Thank you for letting us know.

MARIE Christine 04.01.2020 - 18:11:

Bonjour. Auriez-vous un croquis qui permettrait de comprendre la forme du col ? Je ne comprends par les explications Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Marie-Christine, quel passage du col ne comprenez-vous pas?

Carmen 12.10.2019 - 22:26:

En la realización de la espalda después de trabajar los 26 cm a partir de los cuadrados, no entiendo dónde hay que hacer los arcos cada 2,5 cm

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 23:44:

Hola Carmen. Los arcos cada 2,5 cm se trabajan a los lados de la parte de la chaqueta que acabamos de trabajar de 26 cm de largo. Se trabajan hacia arriba desde el borde inferior del rectángulo hasta la esquina del cuadrado con la estrella ( ver el diagrama).

Nati 19.08.2019 - 23:23:

Hola, leí despacio y todo correcto, acabé mi chaqueta, gracias

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 17:28:

Estupendo!

Nati 19.08.2019 - 19:05:

Hola, tengo la chaqueta casi terminada, pero no entiendo cómo hacer el cuello. Me parece que lo tengo que hacer por separado pero no entiendo cuánto de ancho y largo, vaya que no entiendo y creo que suelo entender bien los patrones, a la espera de respuesta, gracias anticipadas

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 17:26:

Hola Nati! Nos alegra que acabaste la chaqueta. Muestrala en facebook. Felicitaciones!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 201-28

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.