Agnes Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper for kids in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, lace pattern, stocking stitch and garter stitch. Size 3-12 years

DROPS Children 34-10
DROPS design: Pattern sk-003-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200 g colour 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rounds in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 4.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = 2 stitches decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Divide for body and sleeves, work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 76-80-80-84-84 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Sky. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 2-4-10-14-21 stitches evenly on round - READ INCREASE TIP! = 78-84-90-98-105 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Insert a marker in this round and measure from here. On next round work according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size) 13-14-15-14-15 times on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When digram A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 208-224-240-252-270 stitches on round. On next round increase 4-4-2-2-4 stitches evenly on round = 212-228-242-254-274 stitches.
Then work in stocking stitch until piece measures approx. 15-15-16-17-18 cm from marker. Work next round as follows:
Knit 62-66-70-75-75 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, knit 62-66-70-74-75 (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a new stitch holder (= the other sleeve) and cast on 6 new stitches under sleeve.

BODY:
There are now 136-144-152-160-162 stitches on round. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches cast on. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker (= 4 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP-2! Repeat increase every 3-4½-5½-6½-7½ cm 3 times in total = 148-156-164-172-174 stitches on round. Then work as before until piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements). Work in garter stitch for 2 cm. Loosely cast off. Cut and fasten the yarn.

SLEEVE:
Slip stitches from on stitch holder back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 44-48-51-53-62 stitches), pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on on body (= 50-54-57-59-68 stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round until sleeve measures 3 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP! Continue in stocking stitch and repeat decrease every 4-4-4-4-3½ cm until decrease has been done 5-6-7-8-10 times in total = 40-42-43-43-48 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 23-28-31-35-38 cm in total.
Work in garter stitch for 2 cm. Loosely cast off. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.04.2019
Correction - BODY: Then work as before until piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements)
Updated online: 04.11.2020
Correction:
YOKE:
Cast on 76-80-80-84-84 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Sky. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 2-4-10-14-21 stitches evenly on round - READ INCREASE TIP! = 78-84-90-98-105 stitches...

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over on next round. It should make a hole.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round. It should not make a hole.
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Sylvie DESOLLE wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé à tricoter ce modèle mais je ne comprends pas à quel moment commencent les augmentations. De 78 mailles au départ on doit arriver à 208 mailles mais je ne vois pas les explications pour savoir comment on arrive à ce nombre !! Pouvez-vous me renseigner SVP. Merci d'avance Sylvie

26.01.2023 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Desolle, les augmentations de l'empiècement figurent dans le diagramme A.1, autrement dit, vous tricotez 13 fois les 6 mailles de A.1 tout le tour, puis vous augmentez (cf ovales noirs dans le diagramme) comme indiqué dans le diagramme (10 fois au total) et vous aurez ainsi 16 m dans chaque A.1 quand les augmentations seront terminées, soit 16 m x 13 fois le diagramme = 208 mailles. Bon tricot!

26.01.2023 kl. 10:15

country flag Chloe wrote:

I am working the yoke, in size 3-4. I have selected the correct size diagram but keep getting the wrong number of stitches left at the end of the round. Am I just making mistakes or is this something that happens when following diagrams in the round? I have been putting it right by making a stitch or two at the end of the round to keep the patterns lining up…or at least I think that is what will happen?! Thanks so much for your help.

22.08.2022 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Chloe, When you begin A.1 you have 78 stitches A.1 is 6 stitches in width, so you repeat the diagram 13 times on the round with no stitches left over. This should continue all the way through the diagram (13 repeats in width). The open circles in the diagram are yarn overs which are worked at the same time as decreases, so do not affect the stitch number. The filled-in circles at the edges of the repeats are yarn overs which give increases. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

23.08.2022 kl. 06:47

country flag Diana wrote:

Muchas gracias por responder siempre mis preguntas!

20.06.2022 - 20:13

country flag Diana wrote:

Gracias por la respuesta. Pero en la explicación indica tejer 2 surcos de punto musgo, que sería una fila derecho y otra revés para formar cada uno. Luego si uno ve la figura, no se ve que sean 6 filas en total antes de comenzar con el diagrama A1.

20.06.2022 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Diana. si, son en total 6 vueltas trabajadas antes de A.1 ( 1 vuelta de derecho, 1 vuelta de revés, 1 vuelta de derecho, 1 vuelta de revés (= 2 surcos), 1 vuelta de derecho con aumentos, 1 vuelta de revés).

20.06.2022 kl. 19:54

country flag Diana wrote:

Hola buenos días! "CANESÚ: Montar 76-80-80-84-84 puntos en aguja circular tamaño 4 mm con Sky. Tejer 2 surcos en PUNTO MUSGO – ver explicación arriba. Tejer 1 vuelta de derecho aumentando 2-4-10-14-21 puntos distribuidos equitativamente en la vuelta" Los aumentos se hacen en la vuelta derecho del segundo surco y luego se tejen retorcidos?

20.06.2022 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Diana. Primero se trabajan 4 filas de derecho para formar 2 pliegues. En la 5ª fila de derecho se trabajan los aumentos repartidos (el número de aumentos depende de la talla). En la siguiente vuelta (se trabaja de revés) trabajar las hebras retorcidas .

20.06.2022 kl. 19:25

country flag Avely wrote:

Peale mustrit tuleb kasvatada, mitte kahandada! Viga on tekstis sees.

25.09.2021 - 18:10

country flag Becky wrote:

I have been trying to figure this Agnes Sweater pattern for a child for days. Finally, I went to the womens page and there I noticed there were actual instructions between Purl one row and place a marker and When A 1. Is there a way to get those instructions for the child\'s pattern so I know where and how many to increase with each row? This is my first attempt at a Drop pattern. Thank you.

29.06.2021 - 03:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Becky, in the lady pattern, there is an elevation for neck on back piece while there aren't any elevation for children pattern. But then when you have to increase evenly, follow the diagram for the size (read more about diagrams here) - and increase evenly (see this lesson. Happy knitting!

29.06.2021 kl. 09:15

country flag Sabine Kotterba wrote:

Herzlichen Dank für die Anleitung. ❤️

11.05.2021 - 07:40

country flag Belinda wrote:

Hi! Thanks so much for replying to my last comment. I chose Sky in the end. Now I have another question. I knit tight so I wanted to check my gauge before embarking on this project (the hardest I've ever done!). It gives me 25 stitches by 30... (21x28 is recommended). Should I go up a needle size to 5mm? I plan to do the larger size anyway for my daughter (mainly because if it takes me months I don't want her to have grown out of it already!) so maybe I'll be OK? Thanks so much in advance.

23.02.2021 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Belinda, everyone's tension can differ, some of us work tight and some over loose, that's the reason why needle size is just a suggestion but tension should match to get the finished measurements as in the chart (remember you can also wash and block your swatch before deciding needle size). you will read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

23.02.2021 kl. 12:40

country flag Savin wrote:

Je ne comprends pas comment je peux commencer un pull par le haut(Agnès sweater 5 ans )avec 80 m sur une aiguille circulaire car une fois que mes mailles sont montées je ne peux pas articulées mes deux pointes d'aiguilles pour prendre mes mailles car mon tricot est trop juste pour les écarter et tricoter librement . difficile à expliquer

22.02.2021 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Savin, peut être que cette vidéo ou bien cette leçon qui montre toutes deux comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas pourront vous aider? Bon tricot!

22.02.2021 kl. 16:04

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