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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Sky 74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool |
from 4.90 £ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order |
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= knit 2 together |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over on next round. It should make a hole. |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round. It should not make a hole. |
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= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
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= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together |
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-10) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
![]() |
= knit |
![]() |
= purl |
![]() |
= knit 2 together |
![]() |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over on next round. It should make a hole. |
![]() |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round. It should not make a hole. |
![]() |
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
![]() |
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together |
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 291 catalogues and 10802 patterns - 10802 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, j'ai commencé à tricoter ce modèle mais je ne comprends pas à quel moment commencent les augmentations. De 78 mailles au départ on doit arriver à 208 mailles mais je ne vois pas les explications pour savoir comment on arrive à ce nombre !! Pouvez-vous me renseigner SVP. Merci d'avance Sylvie
26.01.2023 - 09:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Desolle, les augmentations de l'empiècement figurent dans le diagramme A.1, autrement dit, vous tricotez 13 fois les 6 mailles de A.1 tout le tour, puis vous augmentez (cf ovales noirs dans le diagramme) comme indiqué dans le diagramme (10 fois au total) et vous aurez ainsi 16 m dans chaque A.1 quand les augmentations seront terminées, soit 16 m x 13 fois le diagramme = 208 mailles. Bon tricot!
26.01.2023 kl. 10:15I am working the yoke, in size 3-4. I have selected the correct size diagram but keep getting the wrong number of stitches left at the end of the round. Am I just making mistakes or is this something that happens when following diagrams in the round? I have been putting it right by making a stitch or two at the end of the round to keep the patterns lining up…or at least I think that is what will happen?! Thanks so much for your help.
22.08.2022 - 21:32DROPS Design answered:
Hi Chloe, When you begin A.1 you have 78 stitches A.1 is 6 stitches in width, so you repeat the diagram 13 times on the round with no stitches left over. This should continue all the way through the diagram (13 repeats in width). The open circles in the diagram are yarn overs which are worked at the same time as decreases, so do not affect the stitch number. The filled-in circles at the edges of the repeats are yarn overs which give increases. Hope this helps and happy knitting!
23.08.2022 kl. 06:47Muchas gracias por responder siempre mis preguntas!
20.06.2022 - 20:13Gracias por la respuesta. Pero en la explicación indica tejer 2 surcos de punto musgo, que sería una fila derecho y otra revés para formar cada uno. Luego si uno ve la figura, no se ve que sean 6 filas en total antes de comenzar con el diagrama A1.
20.06.2022 - 19:31DROPS Design answered:
Hola Diana. si, son en total 6 vueltas trabajadas antes de A.1 ( 1 vuelta de derecho, 1 vuelta de revés, 1 vuelta de derecho, 1 vuelta de revés (= 2 surcos), 1 vuelta de derecho con aumentos, 1 vuelta de revés).
20.06.2022 kl. 19:54Hola buenos días! "CANESÚ: Montar 76-80-80-84-84 puntos en aguja circular tamaño 4 mm con Sky. Tejer 2 surcos en PUNTO MUSGO – ver explicación arriba. Tejer 1 vuelta de derecho aumentando 2-4-10-14-21 puntos distribuidos equitativamente en la vuelta" Los aumentos se hacen en la vuelta derecho del segundo surco y luego se tejen retorcidos?
20.06.2022 - 17:25DROPS Design answered:
Hola Diana. Primero se trabajan 4 filas de derecho para formar 2 pliegues. En la 5ª fila de derecho se trabajan los aumentos repartidos (el número de aumentos depende de la talla). En la siguiente vuelta (se trabaja de revés) trabajar las hebras retorcidas .
20.06.2022 kl. 19:25Peale mustrit tuleb kasvatada, mitte kahandada! Viga on tekstis sees.
25.09.2021 - 18:10I have been trying to figure this Agnes Sweater pattern for a child for days. Finally, I went to the womens page and there I noticed there were actual instructions between Purl one row and place a marker and When A 1. Is there a way to get those instructions for the child\'s pattern so I know where and how many to increase with each row? This is my first attempt at a Drop pattern. Thank you.
29.06.2021 - 03:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Becky, in the lady pattern, there is an elevation for neck on back piece while there aren't any elevation for children pattern. But then when you have to increase evenly, follow the diagram for the size (read more about diagrams here) - and increase evenly (see this lesson. Happy knitting!
29.06.2021 kl. 09:15Herzlichen Dank für die Anleitung. ❤️
11.05.2021 - 07:40Hi! Thanks so much for replying to my last comment. I chose Sky in the end. Now I have another question. I knit tight so I wanted to check my gauge before embarking on this project (the hardest I've ever done!). It gives me 25 stitches by 30... (21x28 is recommended). Should I go up a needle size to 5mm? I plan to do the larger size anyway for my daughter (mainly because if it takes me months I don't want her to have grown out of it already!) so maybe I'll be OK? Thanks so much in advance.
23.02.2021 - 11:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Belinda, everyone's tension can differ, some of us work tight and some over loose, that's the reason why needle size is just a suggestion but tension should match to get the finished measurements as in the chart (remember you can also wash and block your swatch before deciding needle size). you will read more about tension here. Happy knitting!
23.02.2021 kl. 12:40Je ne comprends pas comment je peux commencer un pull par le haut(Agnès sweater 5 ans )avec 80 m sur une aiguille circulaire car une fois que mes mailles sont montées je ne peux pas articulées mes deux pointes d'aiguilles pour prendre mes mailles car mon tricot est trop juste pour les écarter et tricoter librement . difficile à expliquer
22.02.2021 - 14:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Savin, peut être que cette vidéo ou bien cette leçon qui montre toutes deux comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas pourront vous aider? Bon tricot!
22.02.2021 kl. 16:04