Agnes by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, lace pattern, stocking stitch and garter stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-001-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200 g colour 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched, white NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7 items.
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 4.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

BUTTONHOLE:
Work the buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1 cm from the neck edge, then the next 5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes every 5-6-6-6-7 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. It is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-76-80-86-92 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. Knit 1 row where you increase 17-19-21-23-24 stitches evenly on row - READ INCREASE TIP-1! = 89-95-101-109-116 stitches on needle.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Insert a marker thread on this round and measure from here. Work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH, work A.1 over 1 stitch, A.2 a total of 13-14-15-14-15 times on the row and then 5 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 219-235-251-263-281 stitches on the row. On the next row from the right side adjust stitch count to 219-235-253-261-283 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch until the piece measures 15-15-16-17-18 cm from marker thread. The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 30-32-35-36-37 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, work 61-65-71-73-75 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a new thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches, work 30-32-35-36-37 stitches (= front piece) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
There are 143-151-163-167-171 stitches on the needle. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches which were cast on in each side. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 3 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker (= 4 stitches increased) READ INCREASE TIP-2! Repeat this increase every 3-4½-5½-6½-7½ cm a total of 3 times = 155-163-175-179-183 stitches on needle. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements). Work garter stitch for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. Cut and fasten the thread.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 44-48-51-53-62 stitches) and knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 6 new stitches on the body (= 50-54-57-59-68 stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 3 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue with stocking stitch and repeat the decrease every 4-4-4-4-3½ cm until you have decreased a total of 5-6-7-8-10 times = 40-42-43-43-48 stitches on needle. Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 23-28-31-35-38 cm.
Work garter stitch for 2 cm. Cast off with knit. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.04.2019
Correction - YOKE: When diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 219-235-251-263-281 stitches on the row. On the next row from the right side adjust stitch count to 219-235-253-261-283 stitches.
Updated online: 10.04.2019
Correction - BODY: Continue working until the piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements)

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is purled on next row to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is worked twisted on next row to avoid a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Karyn 13.10.2020 - 11:32:

Hi, I am making the size 5/6 . I casted on 76 stitches which I increased to 95 evenly on row 5. I have completed the A1,A2 DESIGN. I have 12 perfect V designs cross my needle but only 104 stitches. I can't work out where have gone wrong. Please help as I love this pattern and would like to carry on.

DROPS Design 13.10.2020 kl. 12:53:

Dear Karyn, when working A.1 and A.2 in size 5/6 years, you will work them like this: 5 front band sts, A.1 (= 1 st), A.2 a total of 14 times, 5 front band sts. (= 5 + 1 + 14x6 + 5 = 95 sts). When A.2 is done, there are 16 sts in each diagram, this means you have: 5 front band sts, A.1 (= 1 st), A.2 a total of 14 times = 16 sts x 14, 5 front band sts = 5+1+ 16x14 + 5 = 235 sts. Hope this helps, happy knitting!

Liz 24.09.2020 - 22:44:

Still not clear. Do you mean instead of purling on a purl row (WS) , you knit instead, for those rows designated as "knit from wrong side"? The same symbol in the "Agnes set" diagram IS purl. I am working size 3-4, so not an issue til row 6.

DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 09:12:

Dear Liz, correct, in the Agnes Set, diagram is worked in the round, so that the stitch will be purled from RS - for the jacket you work back and forth and in order to get this stitch look like "purl from RS" you need to knit it from WS. Happy knitting!

Liz 24.09.2020 - 16:31:

In the diagram explanations, what does "knit from wrong side" mean?

DROPS Design 24.09.2020 kl. 16:46:

Dear Liz, this stitch will be worked only from WS and has to be knitted, this means for example on row 2 in A.2 size 9/10 and 11/12 you will knit all stitches from WS. Happy knitting!

Cindy 19.09.2020 - 12:04:

I’m making size 3/4 and at the end of A2 I have 345 stitches! I never did A1, is this salvageable or should I just quit?

DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 08:42:

Dear Cindy, in size 3/4 you start with 89 sts and work diagrams A.1 x 1 and A.2 x 13 (A.1 makes both ends being the same), ie: 5 front band sts, 1 st (A.1), repeat 13 times the 6 sts in A.2 and end with 5 front band sts. When diagrams are done, there are: 5 + 1 + 16 x 13 + 5 = 219 sts. Happy knitting!

Jean 25.08.2020 - 00:31:

A2=18 stitches. 109 stitches on needle. subtract 10 stitches for band stitches.99 stitches left. "A2 a total of 14 times" A2 is 18 stitches. 14 x 18 = 252 stitches. I don't have that many stitches?????? Please explain.

DROPS Design 25.08.2020 kl. 08:44:

Hi Jean, You start at the bottom of the diagram and work upwards (even if you are working top down), so A.2 has 7 stitches to begin with. The bands are 10 stitches, A.1 is 1 stitch and 7 x 14 = 98, which all adds up to 109 stitches. Happy knitting!

Janet Cartmell 24.08.2020 - 01:38:

I think what is happening. And I did it too. Whennyiu read the pattern. People are adding in A1 in the repeats across the row. Maybe an adjustment in the written pattern to explain A1 is only done 'once' then continue on A2 across the row. Thanks

Patricia PONT 02.08.2020 - 10:44:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas en que veut dire ... « les diagrammes A.1 et A.2 : 5 mailles de bordure devant au POINT MOUSSE, A.1 au-dessus de la maille suivante, répéter x fois A.2 et terminer 5 mailles de bordure »... : A1 au dessus de la maille suivante ? de plus ce diagramme A 1 ne doit il pas se retrouver sur la fin du rang avant les 5 mailles boutonnière ? La version en anglais ne m'éclaire pas non plus. Merci d’avance. Cordialement. Patricia

DROPS Design 03.08.2020 kl. 08:18:

Bonjour Mme Pont, vous tricotez 1 fois A.1 (= 1 m end ou 1 m env) et vous répétez le diagramme A.2 qui correspond au motif ajouré - en même temps, vous tricotez les 5 m de bordure devant de chaque côté au point mousse. Ainsi, le motif sera symétrique de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Lotta 31.07.2020 - 17:11:

Dessa instruktioner har bytt plats... RÄTSTICKNING (stickas fram och tillbaka): Alla varv stickas räta. RÄTSTICKNING (stickas runt): Sticka *1 varv rätt och 1 varv avigt*, upprepa *-*

Christine 30.07.2020 - 13:11:

Hi there. I’m making ‘Agnes’ in size 7/8 I have completed sections A.1 and A.2 and have 272 stitches on my needle (not including the 2 x 5 garter stitch band stitches) and the pattern has repeated 17 times not 15 ... I have no idea why as I was following the instructions. Of course I don’t want to undo it so would it be ok to decrease to the 253 stitches specified and how to I do that evenly? Every 13th and 15th stitch? Thank you

DROPS Design 30.07.2020 kl. 15:38:

Dear Christine, you should have worked the diagram over 101 sts, maybe you forgot to increase evenly after neck edge (from 80 to 101)? It looks like you have 20 sts too much, which is ca 10 cm too much in widht, you can decrease evenly but this might be visible on the jacket. Good luck and happy knitting!

Elke 09.07.2020 - 07:52:

Passe: Um einen sauberen Anschluss zu den Randmaschen am Ende jeder Hinreihe zu erhalten (wie am Anfang jeder Hinreihe), wollte ich A1 am Ende jeder Hinreihe noch einmal stricken. (5 Randmaschen/ A1/A2/A1/5 Randmaschen). Wäre das möglich? Größe: Könnte ich A2 um 1 oder 2 Muster verringern (für 2jährige). Muss A2 immer eine ungerade Zahl ergeben? Danke!

DROPS Design 09.07.2020 kl. 09:51:

Liebe Elke, damit das Muster symetrisch wird, fängt man zuerst mit A.1, dann wiederholt man A.2 ( so gibt es 1 Masche glatt rechts beidseitig innerhalb den Blendemaschen) - leider können wir jede Anleitung nach jedem Wunsch umrechnen, gerne kann Ihnen aber Ihr DROPS Laden weiter helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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