DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Agnes

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, lace pattern, stocking stitch and garter stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

DROPS Children 34-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-001-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-200 g colour 13, light jeans blue

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched, white NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 4.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

BUTTONHOLE:
Work the buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1 cm from the neck edge, then the next 5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes every 5-6-6-6-7 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. It is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-76-80-86-92 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. Knit 1 row where you increase 17-19-21-23-24 stitches evenly on row - READ INCREASE TIP-1! = 89-95-101-109-116 stitches on needle.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Insert a marker thread on this round and measure from here. Work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH, work A.1 over 1 stitch, A.2 a total of 13-14-15-14-15 times on the row and then 5 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 219-235-251-263-281 stitches on the row. On the next row from the right side adjust stitch count to 219-235-253-261-283 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch until the piece measures 15-15-16-17-18 cm from marker thread. The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 30-32-35-36-37 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, work 61-65-71-73-75 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a new thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches, work 30-32-35-36-37 stitches (= front piece) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
There are 143-151-163-167-171 stitches on the needle. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches which were cast on in each side. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 3 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker (= 4 stitches increased) READ INCREASE TIP-2! Repeat this increase every 3-4½-5½-6½-7½ cm a total of 3 times = 155-163-175-179-183 stitches on needle. Continue working until the piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements). Work garter stitch for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit. Cut and fasten the thread.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm (= 44-48-51-53-62 stitches) and knit up 1 new stitch in each of the 6 new stitches on the body (= 50-54-57-59-68 stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 3 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue with stocking stitch and repeat the decrease every 4-4-4-4-3½ cm until you have decreased a total of 5-6-7-8-10 times = 40-42-43-43-48 stitches on needle. Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 23-28-31-35-38 cm.
Work garter stitch for 2 cm. Cast off with knit. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.04.2019
Correction - YOKE: When diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 219-235-251-263-281 stitches on the row. On the next row from the right side adjust stitch count to 219-235-253-261-283 stitches.
Updated online: 10.04.2019
Correction - BODY: Continue working until the piece measures approx. 15-17-20-23-26 cm (or to desired length, there is approx. 2 cm until finished measurements)

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is purled on next row to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is worked twisted on next row to avoid a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 34-9

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Comments / Questions (103)

country flag Junifee wrote:

Mit dem original Garn gestrickt. Statt Nadelstärke 4,0 musste ich mit 6,0 stricken um die 21 M / 10 cm Breite zu erreichen. In der Höhe hatte ich 30 Reihen statt der 28 um die 10 cm zu erreichen. Die Anleitung ist eingängig und gut verständlich. Das Garn ist superweich. Ich habe die Größe 9/10 Jahre gestrickt. Mir haben 200g allerdings nicht gereicht. Die Jacke ist toll geworden und ich würde sie wieder stricken.

09.12.2023 - 21:02

country flag Grete wrote:

Hei igjen! Beklager forrige kommentar - i en frustrert situasjon..Klarte det til slutt, og jakken blir kjempefin!

20.10.2023 - 21:23

country flag Grete Slinde wrote:

Hei! Skulle virkelig ønske at det i oppskriften kunne stå totalt antall masker på pinnen etter hvert som man legger til, slik at en kan være tryggere på at det skal stemme med mønsteret! Det gjør jo det ved rundfelling. Og med hullmønster som her er det ikke like lett å se om man er på "riktig vei". Har måttet rekke opp utrolig mange ganger... Mvh Grete

17.10.2023 - 11:43

country flag Sabrina Aceranti wrote:

Lo schema non mi si riproduce come nella foto. Le V e il disegno sono confusi.Ho guastato tre volete e sto usando lo stesso filato taglia 7/8 anni. È possibile che sia qualche errore?

10.09.2023 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sabrina, sta leggendo il diagramma dal basso verso l'alto e da destra verso sinistra per i ferri di andata?

12.09.2023 - 19:33

country flag Christine Weir wrote:

Hi ....I've printed this pattern ...but I can't seem to get the diagrams to it ..can you help?

02.06.2023 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, the charts seem to print fine on our side. There should be 6 pages in the printed version: the 4th page contains the chart explanations and the 5th page contains the charts themselves. You should also be able to check them online, after the pattern written instructions. Happy knitting!

04.06.2023 - 19:04

country flag Maddy wrote:

De eerste gaatjestoer. begin met A1 = 1 recht en dan 2 samen omslag etc. aan het eind zijn na de laatste omslag direct de 5 kantsteken. Dus rechts zie je 5 kantsteken 2 recht en dan eerste gaatje en links sluit het gaatje gelijk aan op de kantsteek. Klopt dat wel? het is nu a-symetrisch

22.05.2023 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Maddy,

Hmm ja, de naald met gaatjes wordt hierdoor asymmetrisch, maar voor de rest van het patroon met je wel eerst A.1 breien en dan de herhalingen van A.2. Als je het storend vindt, zou je bij de naald met gaatjes de 1 recht van A.1 aan het eind kunnen maken in plaats van aan het begin en daarna het patroon weer oppakken volgens de beschrijving.

23.05.2023 - 09:46

country flag Debbie Hallam wrote:

Hi I’ve just knitted this pattern for my granddaughter and loved it . Is it ( or something similar ) available in adult sizes .? Thanks

28.04.2023 - 15:40

country flag Annis wrote:

Where do I place the marker stitches in the row?

26.04.2023 - 06:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Annis, The marker is used to measure the yoke from, so it does not matter where you place it on the row. Happy knitting!

26.04.2023 - 06:39

country flag Ms Marie Littlejohn wrote:

I loved knitting this design and learning some new skills. I hadn't knitted a top down cardigan before . The yoke pattern was a bit of a challenge until I took time to concentrate on it! I liked that there was no sewing up at the end. Thank you

29.03.2023 - 11:59

country flag Mo wrote:

I am doing 7/8..how do I knit " A.1 over 1 stitch ". I understand A.1=1st, this means on the RS, I would knit 1st...so how do I do Over 1 stitch... Thanks.

19.01.2023 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mo, A.1 is just worked over 1 stitch (only 1 stitch in diagram) and this makes the pattern being symmetrical. Just work the stitch as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

19.01.2023 - 18:33