DROPS / 194 / 4

Aster by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with textured pattern and lace pattern. Size S – XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-127
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 10, fog

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections which are sewn together to finish. You work top down with circular needle.

FRONT PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth until the piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side:
ROW 1: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row (= towards neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 2: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3: Work pattern as before over all stitches.
Lay the piece to one side and work right shoulder.
Right shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches with circular needle size 6mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth until the piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm – adjust so that the next row is from the right side:
ROW 1: Work pattern as before over all stitches and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row (= towards neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 2: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work the right and left shoulders together from the right side as follows:
Work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on the right shoulder, cast on 21-21-21-25-25-25 new stitches on the needle for neck, work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on the left shoulder = 73-77-81-85-89-93 stitches on the row. Work back 1 row in this pattern from the wrong side and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (purl the new neck stitches).
Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before over the next 11-13-15-17-19-21 stitches, A.2 (= 49 stitches), work pattern as before over the next 11-13-15-17-19-21 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth. When the piece measures 13-14-13-14-15-15 cm cast on new stitches for the armholes at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-2-2-3-4 times and 4-4-2-2-4-4 stitches 1 time (a total of 6-6-8-8-12-14 stitches increased for the armhole in each side of the piece) = 85-89-97-101-113-121 stitches. The new stitches are worked into pattern A.1 as you go. Continue like this back and forth until A.2 has been completed in height. When A.2 has been completed in height you have decreased 2 stitches in the diagram = 83-87-95-99-111-119 stitches. Now continue with pattern A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from the right side:
ROW 1: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: Work pattern as before and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row (= towards neck) = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 3: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 4: Work pattern as before over all stitches.
Lay the piece to one side and work left shoulder.
Left shoulder:
Cast on 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from the right side:
ROW 1: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: Work pattern as before over all stitches.
ROW 3: Work pattern as before and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row = 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches.
ROW 4: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now work the left and right shoulder together from the right side as follows: Work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on the left shoulder, cast on 21-21-21-25-25-25 new stitches on the needle for neck, work as before over the 26-28-30-30-32-34 stitches on the right shoulder = 73-77-81-85-89-93 stitches on row. Work 1 row back from the wrong side in pattern as before and with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side (purl the new neck stitches). Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When the piece measures 13-14-13-14-15-15 cm cast on new stitches for the armholes at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-0-2-2-3-4 times and 3-3-1-1-3-3 stitches 1 time (a total of 5-5-7-7-11-13 stitches increased for the armholes in each side of the piece – NOTE: You cast on 1 less stitch for the armholes on each side of the back piece than on the front piece so that the pattern will fit into the sides of the body = 83-87-95-99-111-119 stitches. The new stitches are worked into pattern A.1 as you go. When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 19-23-25-27-27-27 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and Air. Work pattern A.1 until there is 1 stitch left, work the first stitch in A.1. Continue like this back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of each row cast on new stitches in each side for the sleeve cap as follows: Cast on 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-2-2 times, 1 stitch 0-0-0-0-4-5 times, 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-2-2 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 47-51-53-55-59-61 stitches. The new stitches are worked into pattern A.1. When all the stitches are cast on, insert a marker thread in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with pattern A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 5-5-4-4-3-3 cm a total of 7-8-8-9-10-10 times = 33-35-37-37-39-41 stitches. Continue until the sleeve measures 44-44-43-43-41-39 cm from the marker thread (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the sleeves to the body inside the cast-on edge on the sleeves and inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the body. Sew the sleeve and side seams inside the 1edge stitch in garter stitch.

NECK:
Knit up 66-78 stitches from the right side with short circular needle size 6 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off with purl.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.10.2018
Correction has been made to the last cast on of new stitches for armholes
FRONT PIECE: ...4-4-2-2-4-4 stitches 1 time
BACK PIECE: ...3-3-1-1-3-3 stitches 1 time
Updated online: 19.11.2018
Correction: When working shoulders on back piece together you work left shoulder first, then right shoulder.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs to leave holes
= Knit 1 stitch, make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= knit 2 together
= this square has no stitch because it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Muriel 02.09.2019 - 17:24:

Bonjour, Il semble y avoir un bug, on ne peut imprimer que la première page du modèle. Pouvez-vous contrôler ? cordialement Muriel

DROPS Design 03.09.2019 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Muriel, nous avons pu imprimer ce modèle avec succès, vérifiez bien les paramètres de votre imprimante pour que toutes les pages soient imprimées (et pas seulement la première, en fonction des données précédentes conservées par votre imprimante). Bon tricot!

Je Maintiendrai 07.04.2019 - 16:50:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle mais je ne sais pas quelle taille choisir et je n'ai jamais tricoté de pull pour moi. Je fais habituellement un 42 et parfois du 40 dans les tailles du commerce. Pourriez-vous s'il vous plait me guider dans la taille à choisir? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 07.04.2019 kl. 22:04:

Bonjour! Si vous faites un garment vous trouverez en bas de la page un schéma avec toutes les mesures (en cm) du vêtement terminé. Si vous suivez les explications et gardez la bonne tension/le bon échantillon, votre vêtement aura la même taille que les mesures du schéma. Si vous ne savez pas quelle taille choisir, la solution peut être de mesurer un pull que vous avez et dont vous aimez la taille. Vous pouvez ensuite regarder les mesures dans le schéma et y trouver la bonne taille. Bon tricot!

Anna-Marie 14.02.2019 - 15:50:

Jeg synes der står der er patent - men det er noget andet når man følger mønstret, ikke?

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 11:54:

Hei Anna-Maria. Denne oppskriften er strikket med struktur og hullmønster, som beskrevet i tittelen. Det strikkes ikke patent her. Jeg kan likevel se at den kommer opp når man søkt på patent, det skal vi få rettet. God fornøyelse

Samanta 29.01.2019 - 10:53:

Buongiorno, non so dove sbaglio : ma sul davanti se lavoro un numero dispari su A1 e poi devo iniziare A2, sul rovescio mi vengono due maglie diritto attaccate e le coste non vengono rispettate. Devo invertire A1? GRAZIE

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 11:13:

Buongiorno Samanta. Quando lavora A1 su un numero dispari, l'ultima maglia viene lavorata come la prima maglia di A1, quindi a diritto sul diritto del lavoro. Al ferro di ritorno, lavora questa maglia a rovescio e poi segue le coste come già impostate. Buon lavoro!

ELISA 04.01.2019 - 16:17:

Lorsque je fais mon échantillon : 10 cm egal 18 mailles avec des aiguilles n°7 (je tricote très serré). Je souhaite faire la taille S. Comment faire pour arriver au bon échantillon (10cm = 15 mailles)

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Elisa, si vous tricotez serré, il vous faudra ajuster la taille des aiguilles: vous avez trop de mailles pour 10 cm, essayez à nouveau avec des aiguilles plus grosses. Bon tricot!

Celine 30.12.2018 - 09:04:

Après avoir recommencé 3 fois car les côtes ne tombaient pas au bon endroit en réunissant les deux épaules, j’ai fini par lire le schéma A1 en miroir. Cela donne ça au 3ème rang (envers) et tous les rangs envers: 1m. lisière, (1m. Envers, 1m.endroit) tout le rang au lieu de l’inverse, 1m lisière. Avec cette correction, les cotes et le motif A2 sont bien positionnés.

Aase Hermansen 28.11.2018 - 10:46:

Hej - kan jeg mon erstatte 1 tråd air med 2 tråde cotton merino ?? Mvh. Aase

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 14:05:

Hei Aase. Det som er viktig ved garnbytte er at strikkefastheten blir overholdt. Air tilhører garngruppe C, mens Cotton Merino tilhører garngruppe B. Cotton Merino har derfor en tettere strikkefasthet en Air, men dessverre ikke så tett at 2 tråder tilsvarer strikkefastheten til Air. Om du derimot velger et garn fra gruppe A vil dette være en mulighet. Alternativt kan du velge et annet garn fra gruppe C (og da strikke med 1 tråd). Her er en oversikt over hvilke garn som tilhører hvilke grupper. God fornøyelse

Willemijn 20.11.2018 - 15:08:

Het rugpand wordt 70 cm breed, is dat de bedoeling?

DROPS Design 21.11.2018 kl. 10:49:

Dag Willemijn,

Dat klopt dat de panden breed zijn, het is een oversized model.

Carla 19.11.2018 - 23:19:

Hello, betreffende maat medium - voorpand. Ik heb rechter en linker schouder samengebracht op 1 naald en sta op het punt om met patroon A2 te beginnen. Ik zou 1 ribbelsteek moeten breien, 13 steken in A1 patroon, 49 steken in A2 patroon, dan terug 13 steken in A1 patroon en 1 ribbelsteek. Als ik het telpatroon van A2 bekijk, dan start deze met 47 steken ipv 49 steken zoals in de beschrijving omdat er geminderd is, maar dit staat niet in het patroon waar je die 2 steken moet minderen ?Bedankt!

DROPS Design 25.11.2018 kl. 16:52:

Dag Carla

Als je de rechter en linker schouder samengevoegd hebt, heb je 77 steken op de naald en hoef je verder niet meer de minderen of te meerderen. In het telpatroon A.2 begin je met 49 steken en pas in een van de laatse naalden in het telpatroon minder je naar 47 steken. (Je leest het telpatroon van onder naar boven.) Als je verder breit volgens de beschrijving kom je dus precies uit met de steken.

Fanny 18.11.2018 - 09:26:

Bonjour, pour faire les épaules du dos, il est indiqué "tricoter sur l'endroit ainsi: rang 1..., rang 2... rang 3... etc". Faut-il faire des rangs envers entre chacun de ces rangs endroits ? Je ne pense pas avoir compris car si je fais cela, les augmentations se font toujours sur l'endroit et je me retrouve avec 2 épaules droites. Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Fanny, suivez simplement l'ordre des rangs à tricoter (pas de rangs entre), soit pour l'épaule gauche: 1er rang sur l'envers (= on augmente pour l'encolure), 2ème rang sur l'endroit, 3ème rang sur l'envers. Pour l'épaule droite: 1er rang sur l'endroit (on augmente pour l'encolure), 2ème rang sur l'envers . Tricotez ensuite les 2 épaules sur l'endroit en montant les mailles de l'encolure entre les deux. Bon tricot!

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