DROPS / 194 / 20

Casual Diamond Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down in an angle with cables and texture. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern sk-013
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 13, denim blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 80 cm for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

DROPS BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 5-5-6-6-7-7 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

ELEVATION:
Work the elevation in garter stitch. Insert 1 marker after 74-78-78-84-84-88 stitches in from mid front (= mid back). Begin from right side and knit 11-11-11-12-12-12 stitches past marker, turn, tighten yarn and knit 22-22-22-24-24-24 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-33-36-36-36, turn, tighten yarn and knit 44-44-44-48-48-48. Continue like this, i.e. by working 11-11-11-12-12-12 stitches more on every turn until 6 ridges in total have been worked. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit the rest of the row from right side. Knit 1 row from wrong side over all stitches.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. When A.a-diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.b-diagrams over A.a and repeat A.b vertically. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
While decreasing and increasing in diagram A.1b, A.3b, A.6b and A.7b, the number of stitches can vary according to this with 8 stitches, if decrease has been done.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 130 stitches), subtract band (= 12 stitches in total = 118 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 6.5. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 6th and 7th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work 3 stitches in 1 stitch stocking stitch as follows: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, 1 knit in same stitch (= 3 stitches = 2 stitches increased). Work the increased stitches in pattern A.2: Do not work yarn overs twisted on next row.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased in total).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 approx. 8½-8½-7½-7½-7-7 cm apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down in an angle down to armhole. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue body back and forth, before front and back piece are divided and finish each part separately.
Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 130-134-138-154-158-162 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Sky. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Knit 1 row and increase 18-22-18-14-10-14 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 148-156-156-168-168-176 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. 
Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
Now work as follows from right side:
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1a (= 6 stitches), work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, work 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, A.3a (= 13 stitches), A.4a (= 11 stitches).
Left sleeve: Work 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches in stocking stitch.
Back piece: Work A.5a (= 11 stitches), A.6a (= 13 stitches), 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, A.7a (= 10 stitches), work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, A.3a over 13 stitches, A.4a over 11 stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right front piece: Work A.5a over 11 stitches, A.6a over 13 stitches, 1-3-3-5-5-7 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and insert 1 marker in this stitch, A.1a over 6 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 4 stitches in garter stitch.
Marker must be in the piece until finished measurements (= increase stitches).
On next row from right side increase as follows:
Increase differently on sleeves and body.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1a and A.3a to A.7a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1b and A.3b to A.7b over A.1a and A.3a to A.6a. Continue A.2 as before.
All increases are done from the right side!
Body: Increase 2 stitches in each stitch with marker – read INCREASE TIP-2, every other row 8-9-13-15-19-22 times in total, then every 4th row 9-10-9-9-8-8 times in total (i.e. increase 2 stitches on each front piece and 4 stitches on back piece when increasing).
Sleeve: Increase with 1 yarn over after A.4 and before A.5 (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve) every other row 26-29-31-33-35-37 times in total. Do not work yarn over twisted on next row, it should make holes.
When all increases are done, there are 77-83-89-95-101-109 stitches in each front piece, 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on each sleeve and 142-154-166-178-190-206 stitches on back piece = 412-448-480-516-548-588 stitches in total on row. Piece measures approx. 22-24-26-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge measured mid on top of sleeve.
On next row from right side divide the piece as follows:
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, A.3b and A.4b as before (= 29 stitches in total).
Left sleeve: Slip the next 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches.
Back piece: Work A.5b and A.6b as before (= 29 stitches in total), 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.7b as before, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, work A.3b and A.4b as before (= 29 stitches in total).
Right sleeve: Slip the next 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches.
Right front piece: Work A.5b and A.6b as before (= 29 stitches in total), 35-41-47-53-59-67 stitches A.2, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch = 312-336-360-392-416-448 stitches (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches on each front piece and 150-162-174-190-202-218 stitches on back piece).
Now work body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
Now work as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work pattern as before, work stitches under each sleeve in stocking stitch.
ROW 2 (= right side):
Left front piece: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1b as before, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch at marker = 2 stitches increased), work pattern as before until 5 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), 2 stitches in stocking stitch.
Back piece: Work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased), work pattern as before until stitch with marker, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), A.7b as before, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), work pattern as before until 5 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), 2 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right front piece: Work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, knit 3 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased), work pattern as before until stitch with marker, work 3 stitches in next stitch (= stitch with marker = 2 stitches increased), A.1b as before, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work pattern as before, work the increased stitches in A.2.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work pattern as before.
I.e. on every 4th row increase 8 stitches and decrease 8 stitches, i.e. number of stitches is the same but the pattern in the side is decreased and the pattern in A.2 increase.
Continue with pattern (when there is not enough stitches for a cable, stop the cables and continue in stocking stitch over knitting stitch and purl over purl stitches).
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total measured from shoulder and down to tip.
Now divide piece on next row from right side as follows:
Left front piece: Work pattern as before until marker thread, then slip stitches on 1 stitch holder (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches place on 1st stitch holder).
Back piece: Work pattern as before over the next 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches (= half back piece), then slip them on 2nd stitch holder.
Work pattern as before until marker thread, then slip stitches on 1 stitch holder (= 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches place on 3rd stitch holder = back piece).
Right front piece: Work pattern as before the rest of row (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches).
Now finish each part separately, i.e. begin vent in the side here.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1b and 1 stitch in stocking stitch, then slip them on 1 stitch holder (= 13 stitches) and work the rest of row = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of front piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work pattern the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before the rest of row (= 2 stitches cast off at beginning of row).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (right front piece):
Work back and forth.
Pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outermost loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm and slip the 13 stitches from stitch holder mid front back on needle = approx. 58-62-66-70-76-80 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip stitches from 1st stitch holder back on circular needle (= 81-87-93-101-107-115 stitches).
On 1st row (= from wrong side) work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work pattern as before the rest of row. On next row from right side work 4 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1b and 1 stitch in stocking stitch, then slip them on 1 stitch holder (= 13 stitches), cast off the next 2 stitches and work the rest of row = 66-72-78-86-92-100 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of front piece.
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Work pattern the rest of row as before.
ROW 2 (= from right side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 3 stitches decreased in total).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (left front piece):
Work back and forth.
Slip the 13 stitches from stitch holder mid front back on circular needle size 3.5 mm and pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outer loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm = approx. 58-62-66-70-76-80 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Slip the 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches from 2nd stitch holder back on circular needle (= half back piece).
On 1st row (= from wrong side) work as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work pattern as before until 1 stitch in stocking stitch remains and half A.7b, slip the last stitches on a stitch holder without working them = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle. Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of back piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch (= 3 stitches decreased in total).
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Work pattern the rest of row as before.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Slip the 75-81-87-95-101-109 stitches from 3rd stitch holder back on circular needle (= half back piece).
Slip the first stitches on a stitch holder (from wrong side): 1 stitch in stocking stitch and half A.7b and work the rest of row = 68-74-80-88-94-102 stitches remain on needle.
Continue as follows:
Now decrease stitches on each side of back piece.
ROW 1 (= from right side): Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work pattern the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= from wrong side): Cast off the first 2 stitches, work pattern as before the rest of row (= 2 stitches cast off at beginning of row).
Repeat 1st and 2nd row until 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches remain. Work stitches together 2 by 2 and pull yarn through the stitches.

EDGE (back piece):
Work back and forth.
Pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along edge at the bottom from right side in outer loop of edge stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm until stitches from stitch holder (= approx. half back piece), slip stitches from stitch holder mid back back on needle and pick up approx. 45-49-53-57-63-67 stitches along the rest of back piece = approx. 104-112-120-128-140-148 stitches.
Work 3 ridges back and forth. If the edge in garter stitch is tight at the bottom, pick up more stitches.

SLEEVE:
Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 58-64-68-74-78-82 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 66-72-76-86-90-94 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from where sleeves was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1 cm 11-12-14-17-19-19 times in total = 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches.
When piece measures 37-36-34-33-32-30 cm from where sleeves were divide from body, switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2/2 stitches in garter stitch). Cast off by knitting when piece measures 41-40-38-37-36-34 cm from where sleeve was divided from body. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= this square is not a stitch because stitch was decreased earlier, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row; it should NOTE make a hole
= work 3 stitches, pass first stitch worked over the last 2 stitches so that this stitch is around the other two stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= knitting direction




Mickan 21.08.2019 - 14:51:

Undrar vilken storlek modellen har på bilden? Är det S eller M?

JEANINE BROSSET 18.03.2019 - 17:26:

LE GILET QUE JE FAIS EST EN TAILLE S question du 15 mars merci

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 09:59:

Bonjour Mme Brosset, avez-vous bien la bonne répartition des points dès le départ? Avez-vous bien augmenté 2 mailles et diminué 2 mailles sur les devants gauche et droit (cf rang 2)? Votre nombre de mailles doit toujours rester le même avant la division de l'ouvrage pour les manches. Vérifiez si vous avez bien tricoté le devant droit avec les diminutions et les augmentations du rang 2. Bon tricot!

JEANINE BROSSET 15.03.2019 - 15:49:

Bonjour je viens de commencer le gilet Casual Diamond Jacket mdèle sk-013 DROPS 194-20 et je m'aperçois que sur les devants à gauche j'ai 11m après la bordure et à droite 7 m avant ou après le marqueur pouvez-vous m'expliquer ou est l'erreur ? c'est la 1ère fois que je fais un de vos modèles et je trouve que vos explications ne sont pas très claires je suis pourtant assez expérimentée merci de votre réponse Cordialement Jeanine

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 08:24:

Bonjour Mme Brosset, pouvez-vous nous indiquer la taille que vous réalisez? Il sera ainsi plus facile de vérifier le nombre de mailles. Merci!

Jane Ninnis 20.02.2019 - 00:15:

I am struggling to understand this pattern, having knitted the first pattern row A.1a , A 2 etc. This has added 24 stitches - is this correct? Then I tried to knit the 2nd row but had too many stitches so ripped it back. It would be helpful to know how many stitches there should be at the end of the first few rows. Also, for the 3rd row, do I follow the A.1a or just continue with A.1b. Also the 'filled in dot' diagram says should NOTE make a hole - presumably should say 'not'?

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 09:34:

Dear Mrs Ninnis, in the first row in diagrams (except A.2) , you will increase sts: A.1a: +1 st, A.3a, A.6a and A.7a: +2 sts, A.4a and A.5a: +3 sts, so that you increase a total of 24 sts on first row. On next row from RS work diagrams starting from the left towards the right folllowing the 2nd row in both diagrams, you can insert a marker between each diagram to make sure you can check number of sts and how they should be worked. Then work diagrams b over a, you have now the correct number of sts for these b diagrams. Happy knitting!

Helle Jensen 09.12.2018 - 21:06:

Kan ikke få maskeantallet til at stemme , jeg tæller på 1. Diagram række og har for lidt masker. Strikker str. L så jeg har 156 masker, men første diagramrække har 164 m.?

Valerie 25.11.2018 - 16:26:

Re : merci de ne pas prendre en compte ma question précédente, je viens de comprendre ;-)

Valerie 25.11.2018 - 12:16:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas le début de l'explication, on nous dit de commencer par la gauche alors qu'en étant sur l'endroit on est sur le coté droit . Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 26.11.2018 kl. 09:25:

Bonjour Valérie, ce gilet se tricote de haut en bas, sur l'endroit, on va commencer par le devant gauche et terminer par le devant droit, et sur l'envers, commencer par le devant droit et terminer par le devant gauche. Bon tricot!

Cecilia Ekengren 08.11.2018 - 16:18:

Jag undrar över mönstret också. Stickas A.a-mönstren bara en gång i början av plagget och sedan A.b-mönstren resten av plagget? De olika A.b-diagrammen har olika många varv - ska man fortsätta att sticka varje diagram från början när man kommit till översta varvet? Med andra ord - ska t ex A.1b:s 4 varv stickas tre gånger på höjden samtidigt som man stickar A-6b:s 12 varv?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 17:18:

A.a diagrammen stickas endast en gång och sedan upprepas diagrammen A.b. Det stämmer att du ska börja från början i varje diagram efter att du stickat en rapport, det är olika många varv i de olika mönsterrapporterna.

Cecilia Ekengren 08.11.2018 - 15:20:

Hej! Jag har precis börjat på oket på denna modell och har en fråga om ökningarna: Ingår dessa ökningar i mönstret, eller är de omslag som ingår i mönstret bara just mönster? Påbörjar man ökningarna direkt eller efter att en omgång av A.1a och A.3a till A.7a och en omgång av A.1b och A.3b till A.7b har stickats?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 17:15:

Hej, ökningarna för raglan ingår inte i mönstret, utan de görs i tillägg. Du börjar öka på det första varvet från rätsidan med A.1b och A.3b-A.7b.

Mireille Isaac 21.09.2018 - 23:01:

Bonjour. Merci pour votre réponse. J'ai très bien compris cette partie. C'est à partir du moment où on commence les fentes sur le côté, tout en bas, que je ne comprends plus.

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 07:59:

Bonjour Mme Isaac, c'est la même idée que pour les augmentations/diminutions, on va rabattre les mailles d'un côté de l'ouvrage jusqu'à ce qu'il n'en reste que quelques unes, ceci permet que le bas du gilet soit bien droit. Bon tricot!

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