DROPS / 197 / 23

Red Sky by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL

  • Red Sky / DROPS 197-23 - Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL
  • Red Sky / DROPS 197-23 - Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL
  • Red Sky / DROPS 197-23 - Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL
  • Red Sky / DROPS 197-23 - Knitted jumper with raglan in DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern sk-015
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 09, brick red

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for garment/stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases/increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 12.
In this example decrease by knitting every 11th and 12th stitch together.
When increasing evenly make 1 yarn over after every 12th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase 2 stitches in every transition between body and sleeves as follows:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern. After yoke work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 96-100-104-112-120-124 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Sky. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 88-92-96-100-108-112 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the yoke if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side and knit 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches from wrong side, turn, tighten yarn and knit 18-18-21-21-24-24 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit 42-42-49-49-56-56 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-48-56-56-64-64 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit until mid back. Cut the yarn. Begin next round (i.e. yoke) after the first 13-14-14-15-16-17 stitches on round.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker here - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece while working in stocking stitch in the round as follows: Knit 3 stitches (= 3 stitches on back piece), insert 1 marker thread here, knit the next 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread here, knit the next 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread here, knit 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread here, knit the last 29-31-31-33-35-37 stitches (= back piece) after last marker (3 stitches remain before first marker thread).
Work next round as follows: Knit 6 (marker is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 6-6-8-8-10-10 (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 26-28-28-30-32-34 (= front piece), make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 6-6-8-8-10-10 (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 26-28-28-30-32-34 (= back piece), make 1 yarn over.
First increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, is now done (= 8 stitches increased on round). Continue with stocking stitch and increase every other round 23-27-29-32-34-39 times in total (including first increase explained above).
After last increase for raglan there are 272-308-328-356-380-424 stitches on needle.
Continue in stocking stitch without increases until piece measures 20-22-23-26-28-31 cm from marker at the beginning of yoke.
Work next round as follows: Work 4-3-4-5-7-7 stitches in stocking stitch (= on back piece), slip the next 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work in stocking stitch over the next 80-88-94-104-114-126 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work in stocking stitch over the last 76-85-90-99-107-119 stitches (= back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 176-192-208-228-252-276 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches that were cast on under sleeve in each side. Begin round at one of the marker thread and move the marker threads when working. Continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 8 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 17 cm from division = 184-200-216-236-260-284 stitches.
When piece measures 27-27-28-26-26-25 cm from division (approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder), knit 1 round while increasing 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly = 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use needle size 4.5 mm). Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 64-74-80-84-88-98 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7th-5th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round 13-17-19-20-21-25 times in total = 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 39-37-37-35-33-31 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 6-4-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly = 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 5 cm. Sleeve measures approx. 44-42-42-40-38-36 cm from division. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use needle size 4.5 mm). Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.08.2018
Correction made to yoke: Work 4-3-4-5-7-7 stitches in stocking stitch (= on back piece)...work in stocking stitch over the last 76-85-90-99-107-119 stitches (= back piece)

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Ana 07.05.2020 - 00:37:

Insertar 1 hilo marcador en el centro de los 8-8-10-10-12-12 puntos nuevos que fueron montados bajo la manga a cada lado. Comenzar la vuelta en uno de los hilos marcadores y mover los hilos marcadores a medida que se teje. Continuar en punto jersey. Cuando la pieza mida 8 cm a partir de la división, aumentar 1 punto a cada lado de los dos hilos marcadores .Cada cuantas vueltas se realizan estos aumentos?

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2020 kl. 10:57:

Hola Ana, Dos veces: cuando la pieza mida 8 i 17 cm a partir de la división debes aumentar 1 punto a cada lado de los dos hilos marcadores. Buen trabajo!

country flag Annie 10.04.2020 - 04:22:

Bonjour, en tricotant le dos et le devant de ce pull, il est mentionné:  "Quand l’ouvrage mesure 27 cm depuis la séparation, tricoter 1 tour endroit en augmentant en même temps 36 mailles à intervalles réguliers = 220 mailles " Ma question: « Est-ce que je dois faire ces 36 jetés sur le même rang? Merci!

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 10:11:

Bonjour Annie, tout à fait, vous devez augmenter ces 36 mailles sur un même rang, cette leçon explique comment faire. Bon tricot!

country flag Bärbel 13.10.2019 - 03:30:

Hallo, das Bündchen, zwei recht zwei links am unteren Rumpfteil rollt sich auf. Was kann ich tun?

user icon DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 10:12:

Liebe Bärbel, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich die untere Kante nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Momina Here 28.09.2019 - 16:09:

Hey. I followed all the instructions. However, upon binding off the sweater, I realised that the sleeves are not in the middle of the raglan. They’re tilted towards a side which had made the sweater look uneven. I don’t know what to do. I have gone over the instructions several times. Please tell me what I can do now or what went wrong.

user icon DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 09:25:

Dear Mrs Here, depending on the size you may have to knit some of the 6 stitches from the raglan into the back piece/front piece, but sleeves should be placed correctly. Make sure you increased for the raglan on each side of the 6 sts for raglan line (= after the first 6 sts at the beg of the row, on either side of the 6 sts x 3 times + at the end of the row). Happy knitting!

country flag Naty 21.09.2019 - 11:56:

Buongiorno, continuo ad avere difficoltà con le linee raglan, penso che l'errore sia nella sospensione delle maniche, alla fine della lavorazione dello sprone infatti una linea in entrambe le parti finisce sulla manica....non intendo una cosa: Vi è una correzione ma le maglie indicate nella correzione e nel testo sono perfettamente uguali. ... Vi ringazio molto per l'attenzione e la solerzia delle vostre risposte.

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2019 kl. 21:02:

Buongiorno Naty. Verifichi di avere lo stesso numero di maglie sul davanti e sul dietro e sulle due maniche. Deve aumentare 3 maglie prima e 3 maglie dopo il segnapunti. Le correzioni che vengono fatto vengono evidenziate nella sezione apposita e inserite nel testo per averlo sempre corretto. Buon lavoro!

country flag Naty 19.09.2019 - 10:25:

Buongiorno, è la seconda volta che provo a fare questo modello ma, nonostante io abbia seguito con attenzione tutti i passaggi, le linee del raglan vengono storte, Una è molto spostata sul seno e schiena e l'altra cade sulla manica…..per quanto abbia letto e riletto le istruzioni non capisco dove sbaglio perché lavorando tutto corrisponde. Sono pronta a ripetere tutto per la terza volta, chiedo di suggerirmi dove io possa aver sbagliato…..

user icon DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 11:45:

Buongiorno Naty. Verifichi di posizionare correttamente i segnapunti e di aumentare come indicato per il raglan (il primo aumento è descritto nel testo). Per un aiuto più personalizzato, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia, anche per mail allegando fotografia del suo lavoro. Buon lavoro!

country flag Fedorenko 04.06.2019 - 21:03:

Bonjour, Si je change de laine que le modele j'ai pu voir la conversion de fils merci mais au niveau du modèle faut il refaire des calculs en rapport à l'échantillon de la nouvelle laine et le nombre de mailles du modèle pour adapter ? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 05.06.2019 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Mme Fedorenko, si vous choisissez une laine du même groupe (proposée par le convertisseur par ex), vous devriez obtenir le même échantillon soit par ex 20 m x 26 rangs ici - adaptez la taille des aiguilles si besoin pour obtenir cet échantillon et ainsi les mesures seront justes. Rappelez-vous que des fils avec des textures différentes donneront un résultat différent. Vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

country flag FEDORENKO 03.06.2019 - 10:38:

Bonjour, je souhaiterai réaliser ce modèle de pull mais pour homme. Dans cette même laine. Est ce que le modele Keystone pull homme raglan peut se tricoter avec la laine Drops Sky ?? Comme adapter la laine au modèle sinon ? Merci pour vos réponses. Noëmie

user icon DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 11:32:

Bonjour Mme Fedorenko, Keystone se tricote en Karisma, qui appartient au groupe B, tout comme Sky, utilisez le convertisseur sous ce modèle pour connaître la quantité en Sky. Vous trouverez également ici comment adapter un modèle femme pour un homme. Bon tricot!

country flag Inger Nyborg 30.05.2019 - 11:35:

Spørsmål fra en strikkenovise: - skal jeg alltid ha samme antall masker mellom økninger på raglan? Sånn som beskrevet for første øke-omgang?

user icon DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 10:35:

Hei Inger. Fordi du øker masker vil du få 2 masker mer mellom hvert merke for hver økning (1 maske i hver side). Maskeantallene som står oppgitt når du setter merkene gjelder kun på det tidpunktet merkene settes. Om det er enklere kan du også sette 1 merke på hver side av de 6 maskene du øker på hver side av. Så holder du lettere oversikt over nøyaktig hvor du skal øke. Men det økes altså 2 masker på hver del (forstykke, bakstykke, ermer) hver 2. omgang 23-27-29-32-34-39 ganger. God fornøyelse

country flag Vianca Cerna 27.05.2019 - 04:28:

Hola!! Mi duda es si las medidas finales están en cm o pulgadas?

user icon DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 16:30:

Hola! Las medidas finales estan en cm. Cordiales saludos!

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