DROPS / 194 / 6

Winter Heart by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Nepal or DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern and round yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-285
Yarn group C or A + A

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 8907, fog
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 0612, medium brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 0500, light grey
Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 10, fog
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 18, light grey green


16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 73 stitches), and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 6.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 6th and 7th stitch (approx.). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.




The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. After the yoke the body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

Cast on 72-76-80-84-84-92 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and fog. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 12-16-20-20-8-8 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 84-92-100-104-92-100 stitches. Then work yoke as described below.

Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Work A.1 in the round (= 21-23-25-26-23-25 repeats of 4 stitches) – read PATTERN above. Continue the pattern like this and increase as shown in the diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked as far as the round marked for your size, there are 252-276-300-312-322-350 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 26-28-29-31-33-35 cm measured from the cast-on edge mid-front. Continue with A.1 if necessary, but without increasing, until you reach the right length (after the last round in A.1, continue working with stocking stitch and fog).
Work the next round as follows: Work the first 38-41-44-47-50-54 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 74-80-86-92-98-108 stitches (= front piece), place the next 51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-6-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 38-41-44-47-50-54 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

= 162-174-186-198-222-240 stitches. Work until the whole of diagram A.1 has been worked in height and then work stocking stitch with fog. When the piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm from the division, work 1 round where you increase 34-34-38-38-46-48 stitches evenly on round = 196-208-224-236-268-288 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the cast-off edge being tight; you can cast of with needle size 5.5 mm. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder.

Place the 51-57-63-63-62-67 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 57-63-69-69-74-79 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-12-12 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here; allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. If you still have rounds left to work in A.1 for your size, continue working until A.1 has been completed in height, then work with fog and stocking stitch.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round a total of 10-12-15-14-16-17 times = 37-39-39-41-42-45 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 37-35-35-33-32-30 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 7-9-9-7-10-7 stitches evenly on round = 44-48-48-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (=knit 2/ purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a needle size 5.5 mm. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-38-36-35-33 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.


= fog
= light grey or light grey green
= medium brown or brown
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour of the pattern-stripe; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Delia Marie 03.02.2021 - 20:38:

Ein wunderschönes Garn und ein tolles Muster. Ich suche schon nach dem nächsten Modell!!

Ulrike Damm 04.01.2021 - 08:53:

Vielen Dank für die Antwort aber diese Antwort hilft mir leider nicht weiter. Die wurde anderen Nutzern ja so auch schon häufiger gegeben aber es stimmt trotzdem etwas nicht. Wenn Sie lt. Muster bis zum ersten Rapport stricken gibt es trotzdem das Relief nur 21mal und nicht 26mal. Ich habe das Ganze mittlerweile wieder aufgezogen und stricke einen Norweger nach einer anderen Anleitung, da stimmt es auch. Komisch🤷‍♀️

Ulrike Damm 26.12.2020 - 08:16:

Hallo,ich habe das gleiche Problem wie ein paar andere Strickerinnen zuvor.Zu wenig Maschen auf der Nadel und bin fast fertig mit der Passe. Ich habe auch nochmal nachgezählt. 84M Anschl.104 danach stimmt! Dann habe ich weitergestrickt und aber nur 21 Rapporte statt die gewünschten 26?!? Die allererste Reihe auf der Skizze zeigt 4 Maschen Rapport aber es sind doch 5 (einschl des Umschlag) in der Klammer. Liegt da der Fehler. Ich stricke schon 40 Jahren und mehr und das auch auf Auftrag.

DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 08:27:

Liebe Frau Damm, in XL wiederholen Sie A.1 insgesamt 26 Mal (26x 4 Maschen bei der 1. Runde = 104 M - nach der 1. Reihe haben Sie 5 Maschen in jedem Diagram) und nehmen für die Passe zu, wie im Diagram gezeigt (= insgesamt 8 Mal) so haben Sie 12 Maschen in jedem A.1 wenn Diagram fertig ist und 26 Mal 12 Maschen = 312 Maschen. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hanne Grønbjerg 19.11.2020 - 10:30:

Jeg er i tvivl om, hvad “ rapporter à 4 masker” betyder? Det står i 2. linje under “bærestykket” Mvh Hanne

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 10:39:

Hej Hanne, diagrammet består af en rapport med 4 masker, når du tager ud ifølge diagrammet vil der til sidst være 12-12-14 masker i rapporten (diagrammet). God fornøjelse!

Anki 23.09.2020 - 04:22:

Stickar enligt mönster men kommer inte längre än halskant Ät det verkligen så att när man ökat till 92 på sista räta halsringning och man ska på diagrammet där det ät ökningar fösta och andra varvet oxå vilket gör att det blir fler än de 21, 4 maskgrupperna. Jag fattar inte hur det menas.

DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 13:14:

Hej Anki. Om du stickar storlek M så har du efter halskanten ökat till 92 m. Efter det stickar du A.1 (=4 m) 23 gånger runt på ett varv (4 x 23= 92 m). Mvh DROPS Design

Judith Butler 25.10.2019 - 07:42:

I would like the free pdf this website won't allow me to. Wants me to pay for it

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 09:56:

Dear Mrs Butler, our patterns can only be printed (by clicking on the icon button "Print", but choosing a virtual printer will allow you to save them as a .PDF file. Happy knitting!

Inger-Anne 09.10.2019 - 18:12:

Skulle strikke str XL. Etter å ha fulgt økningene i riktig mønster for størrelsen endte jeg opp med 253 m, altså som str S. Er det feil i diagrammet?

DROPS Design 10.10.2019 kl. 14:29:

Hej Inger-Anne, ifølge diagrammet tager du 8 masker ud x 26 = 208 + de første 104 masker du startede med = 312 masker. Sæt gerne et mærke imellem hver rapport, så du får alle udtagningerne med. God fornøjelse!

Aina 27.02.2019 - 08:29:

Hvordan skal jeg lese første rad i mønsteret? Er det tre masker og så kast eller fire masker og så kast? Rad 2; Er det kast med grunnfarge, 1 grå, 1 grunnfarge, 1 grå, 1 grunnfarge og så et kast med grunnfarge? Eller er det kast med grunnfarge, 1 grå, 1 grunnfarge, 1 grå, og så et kast med grunnfarge?

DROPS Design 27.02.2019 kl. 15:26:

Hei Aina. første rad i diagarmmet leses slik: strikk 4 masker med tåke, 1 kast (med tåke). Gjenta ut omgangen. 2 rad i diagrammet strikes slik: 1 kast med tåke, 1 maske tåke, 1 maske brun, 1 maske tåke, 1 makse brun, 1 maske tåke. Gjenta ut omgangen. Det er altså kun 1 kast på rad 2. Alle kast lages med hovedfargen som strikkes den omgangen. Feks på rad 5 (størrelse S + M) eller 6 (størrelse L + XL og XXL +XXXL) gjøres kastet med grå/grågrønn. God fornøyelse

Andrea Neumann 17.02.2019 - 15:55:

Hallo, ich wollte mal was fragen. In dem Diagramm sieht man einen Pulli der ringsum zahlen hat. Sind das Maschen, Runden oder CM angaben? Bin neu was stricken angeht. Daher würde mir das weiter helfen. Danke vorab.

Anne Marie 14.02.2019 - 19:53:

Jeg forstår ikke hvad der menes i opskrift : Ryg&Forstykke Når arbejde måler 28-28-29-29-29cm fra delingen, strikkes der 1 omgang hvor der tages 34-34-38 -38 46-48 masker ud jævnt fordelt =196-208-224-236-268-288 masker ...... skal det forstås at der tages ud lige inden rib og så lukkes af🙄eller er udtagninger mål fra under ærme 🙄

DROPS Design 18.02.2019 kl. 15:15:

Hei Anne-Marie. Når du har strikket 28-28-29-29-29 cm fra der du delte til bol og ermer skal du øke masker jevnt fordelt før du strikker vrangborden nederst på genseren. Dette gjøres for at vrangborden ikke skal være mye smalere enn resten av genseren. God fornøyelse

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