DROPS / 189 / 9

Can Can by DROPS Design

Crochet basket with pom poms and tassels. The piece is worked with 2 strands DROPS Paris.

  • Can Can / DROPS 189-9 - Crochet basket with pom poms and tassels. The piece is worked with 2 strands DROPS Paris.
  • Can Can / DROPS 189-9 - Crochet basket with pom poms and tassels. The piece is worked with 2 strands DROPS Paris.
  • Can Can / DROPS 189-9 - Crochet basket with pom poms and tassels. The piece is worked with 2 strands DROPS Paris.
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-707
Yarn group C + C or E
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Measurements: Circumference (at bottom and at top by handles): 55 cm/21½". Circumference in middle: 60 cm/23½". Height: 14 cm / 5½''.
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g color 17, off white
100 g color 26, dark beige
50 g color 38, raspberry
50 g color 01, apricot
50 g color 06, shocking pink
50 g color 07, heather

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM/I/9 – or the size needed to get 13 double crochets and 8 rows with 2 strands on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.15 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.45 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.15 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

CROCHET INFORMATION-1:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
At the beginning of each round of single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at beginning of round.

CROCHET INFORMATION-2:
When changing color at the start of a round, work the slip stitch at the end of the previous round with the new color.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working the next 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work the next double crochet, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

LOBSTER STITCH:
Work single crochets, but backwards. In other words, work single crochets from
left to right.
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BASKET:
The piece is worked in the round, from the middle of the bottom of the basket and upwards with 2 strands.

Work 5 chain stitches with 1 strand off white and 1 strand dark beige (= 2 strands) and hook SIZE 5.5 mm/I/9 and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Then work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 12 double crochets around the ring – read CROCHET INFORMATION-1!
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 48 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 5: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 60 double crochets.
ROUND 6: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 72 double crochets – read CROCHET INFORMATION-2.

Change to 2 strands off white and work as follows:
ROUND 7: Work 1 single crochet in the back loop of each double crochet.
ROUNDS 8-11: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 12: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 11 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round = 78 double crochets.
ROUND 13: Work * 1 single crochet in the front loop of each of the first/next 5 double crochets, 2 single crochets in the front loop of the next double crochet* work from *-* = 91 single crochets. This round makes an edge along the outside of the basket. Cut the strand.

Change to 1 strand off white and 1 strand dark beige (= 2 strands).
ROUND 14: Continue working from round 12, on the inside of the piece: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 11 double crochets, work the next 2 double crochets together to 1 double crochet (= 1 double crochet decreased) – read DECREASE TIP *, work from *-* to end of round = 72 double crochets.
ROUNDS 15-17: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 18: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 13 double crochets, work 12 loose chain stitches and skip 11 double crochets for the handle, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 25 double crochets, work 12 loose chain stitches and skip 11 double crochets for the handle, work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining 12 double crochets on the round.
ROUND 19: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 13 double crochets, work (1 half double crochet, 11 double crochets, 1 half double crochet) around the chain-space for handle, continue with 1 single crochet in each of the next 25 double crochets, work (1 half double crochet, 11 double crochets, 1 half double crochet) around the chain-space for handle, continue with 1 single crochet in each of the remaining 12 double crochets on the round.

Change to 2 strands off white and work a finishing edge of LOBSTER STITCH - see description above. Work 1 lobster stitch in each stitch to end of round. Cut and fasten the strands.

DECORATION:
Make a tight pom pom of 4 cm / 1½'' in diameter in each of the colors shocking pink, heather, raspberry and apricot. So that the attachments of the pom poms to the basket are hidden, use off white or dark beige to fasten with. Trim the pom poms so that they are neat and even.

Make one tassel in each of the colors apricot, raspberry and heather as follows:
Cut 20 strands of 12 cm / 4¾'' and lay the strands together. Cut 1 strand off white or dark beige of 20 cm / 8'', tie a knot around the 20 strands. Fold double at the knot and wind a strand in the same color as the tassel 4 times around, approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from the fold and tie a knot. Cut the strands so that the tassels are even at the bottom.

Sew every other pom pom and tassel to Round 12 on the basket.
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 189-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Brigitte 23.07.2020 - 20:37:

Ich verstehe die 14. Runde nicht, können Sie mir bitte erklären wie das gemeint ist: In die 12. Runde auf der Innenseite der Arbeit weiterhäkeln. Gibt es vielleicht ein Video dazu? Vielen Dank

user icon DROPS Design 24.07.2020 kl. 10:34:

Liebe Brigitte, Sie haben ja schon die 13. Runde gehäkelt, in dieser Runde wurde nur in das vordere Maschenglied der 12. Runde eingestochen. Das hintere Maschenglied der 12. Runde ist also noch "frei". Und genau in diese Maschenglieder häkeln Sie nun. Sie setzen also wieder in der 12. Runde an und häkeln in die hinteren Maschenglieder, sodass die 13. Runde als Rand auf der Vorderseite des Korbes sichtbar ist. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

country flag Ana 11.05.2020 - 20:09:

La vuelta número 13 no está bien ya que si hacemos 2 puntos en uno cada 5 no salen 91 puntos si no 78 y si en la vuelta 14 hacemos una disminución cada 11 puntos no obtendremos 72. Lo lógico es hacer la vuelta 13 sin aumentos y en la 14 hacer una disminución cada 11 para quedar con 72

country flag Bottiero 27.08.2019 - 15:52:

Je ne comprend pas comment il faut crocheter le tour 13?

user icon DROPS Design 27.08.2019 kl. 15:56:

Bonjour Mme Bottiero, c'est un tour d'augmentations (= 1 ms dans les 5 premières m, 2 ms dans la m suivante), mais on va crocheter uniquement dans le brin avant des mailles tout le tour. cette vidéo montre comment crocheter un seul des 2 brins d'une maille. Bon crochet!

country flag KK 11.01.2019 - 23:56:

Row 14, continue from round 12? \r\n\r\nDear Drops\r\n\r\nI\'m stuck on row 14. I\'m not sure what it means to continue on the inside to work on one row before. Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 13:26:

Dear KK, on round 13 you have worked in the front loop of sts from round 12. On round 14 you will work in the unworked loop (= back loop) of sts from round 12. Happy crocheting!

country flag Michaela 03.07.2018 - 12:59:

Sehr schön, den werde ich gerne nacharbeiten.

country flag Victoria 13.12.2017 - 20:40:

Wie süß ist das denn! Will ich haben für mein Bad!

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