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  1. Free patterns
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  5. 190
  6. 26

Belladonna Skirt by DROPS Design

Crochet skirt with texture pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. Piece is crocheted in DROPS Muskat.

Keywords: assembly free, lace, relief, skirt

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DROPS 190-26
DROPS Design: Model r-730
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL 
Materials: 
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 12, red
The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 17 treble crochets on 10 cm in width.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON, Arched (white) NO 521: 5 buttons needed in all sizes.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.85 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.95£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. A.2 shows how round begins/ends when working in the round.

CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).

DECREASE TIP:
TREBLE CROCHETS:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: 
Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet in next stitch/around the chain stitch, pull the thread through all 3 loops on hook when making the last pull through (= 1 treble crochet decreased).
DOUBLE CROCHETS:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next double crochet, pull through all 3 loops on hook when making the last pull through (= 1 double crochet decreased).

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to evenly decrease, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 156 stitches) and divide with the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 26. In this example every 25th and 26th stitches are worked together.
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SKIRT: 
The skirt has 10 cm vent in each side at the bottom, the piece is first worked back and forth in 2 pieces until the vents is finished, then work in the round, but turn every round and work back and forth on the round to make sure the texture is the same all the way. When the piece is divided to make the button front band, work back and forth again, but over both the front and back piece (to make a vent in one side).

FRONT PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from hook, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch used to turn with are also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1 (A.1 is repeated in height until finished measurement) – read CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! After 10 cm put piece aside and work back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from hook, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch used to turn with are also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1. Continue until the piece measures 10 cm – end at the same round as the front piece.

SKIRT after vent:
Continue with pattern as follows - work stitches from the front piece first, then work stitches from the back piece, then the round is worked together with a slip stitch in 1st /3rd stitch on the round, work stitches in A.2, turn work. Continue like this with pattern according to diagrams A.1 and A.2. On the rounds with treble crochets or double crochets there are now 156-168-180-192-216-240 stitches on the round (A.2 is not included in the number of stitches). When the piece measures approx. 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm – make sure the next round is a round with treble crochets or double crochets (marked in diagram with a star), evenly decrease 6 stitches – read DECREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP (evenly). Repeat decreases a total of 6 times on the marked 6 rounds with treble crochets or double crochets = 120-132-144-156-180-204 stitches on a round with treble crochets or double crochets. Continue with A.1 and A.2. When the piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm, continue working back and forth, afterward a button front band shall be worked over the 12 cm at the top. Now the piece is not turned with A.2, but work back and forth in rows to make an opening in one side at the top – use CROCHET TIP! Continue back and forth according to A.1 until the piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm, end with a round marked with a star in the diagram. Cut and fasten the thread.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Work buttonhole loops along the side of the opening that is a part of the front piece as follows: (start from the bottom): 2 double crochets on a row with treble crochets/double crochets, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm, * work 2 double crochets around the next treble crochet/double crochet row, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm *, repeat from *-* 3 times more and end with 2 double crochets around the last treble crochet/double crochet row on top, turn and work as follows: 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 3 double crochets around every chain stitch-loop. Cut and fasten the thread.

BUTTON FOLDING EDGE:
Work 5 rows with double crochets back and forth on the other side of the opening (Work 2 double crochets around every treble crochet and 1 double crochet around every double crochet row on the 1st round), cut thread. Sew buttons on button folding edge.

DECORATIVE BORDER:
The decorative border is worked around the skirt’s bottom hem – work up and down the vents as well.
Work decorative border as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 3rd chain stitch from hook, skip forward approx. 1 cm and make 1 double crochet *. Repeat from *-* entire round and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet from the start of the round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.09.2018
CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).
Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - SYMBOL DEFINITION: Star = on these rounds decrease evenly - see pattern

Diagram

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet in back loop of stitch from the right side and in front loop from the wrong side
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = skip 1 stitch, 1 treble crochet in/around next double crochet/chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in/around the skipped stitch
symbols = treble crochet group: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, but wait with the last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 2 treble crochets in the same treble crochet the same way, pull the thread through all 4 stitches on hook
symbols = on these rounds decrease evenly - see pattern
symbols = this round is not worked, it has already been worked and shows how the next round are worked in stitches
symbols = slip stitch
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Palina Wendel wrote:

Väldigt otydligt i beskrivningen vad det gäller om man ska virka runt eller fram och tillbaka. Ordvalet är otydlig. Samt NÄR man ska minska. Och om man kan gissa sig fram till när man ska virka fram och tillbaka och när man ska virka runt, så är det väldigt svårt att gissa sig fram när det gäller minskning. När man virkar första 10cm så ska man följa A1 där det står minskning redan på 4e raden. Det står inte hur många maskor. Otydlig instruktion!

06.07.2022 - 13:23

country flag Cecilia Espinosa Rebolledo wrote:

Hola!!! Si quisiera hacer una falda larga, hasta los tobillos, que me recomienda hacer para calcular numero de cadenas para el ruedo?

27.11.2019 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cecilia. Esta falda se trabaja de abajo arriba. Para hacerla más larga solo tienes que trabajar según el patrón hacia arriba hasta la largura deseada, no tienes que montar más puntos.

30.11.2019 kl. 19:36

country flag Eija wrote:

Missä kerrotaan kavennusten määrä?

12.08.2019 - 14:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei kavennusten määrä löytyy ohjeesta: "Kun työn pituus on n. 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm ja seuraavaksi virkattava kerros on pylväs tai kiinteä silmukka -kerros (merkitty piirrokseen tähdellä), kavenna tasavälein 6 silmukkaa (lue KAVENNUSVINKKI ja KAVENNUSVINKKI (kaventaminen tasavälein)). Toista tällaiset kavennukset yhteensä 6 kertaa, piirrokseen nuolilla merkityillä pylväs- tai kiinteä silmukka -kerroksilla = 120-132-144-156-180-204 silmukkaa pylväs- tai kiinteä silmukka -kerroksella." Eli työstä kapenee yhteensä 36 silmukkaa.

15.08.2019 kl. 14:28

country flag Eija wrote:

Edelliseen liittyen: huomasin videon, kun olin aikani yrittänyt ohjeen mukaan. Hyvin vaikeasti oli selitetty.

10.08.2019 - 07:55

country flag Eija wrote:

Uskomattomat käännökset! Esim. tuo 2. rivi: "= jätä 1 silmukka väliin, 1 pylväs seuraavaan kiinteään silmukkaan/seuraavan ketjusilmukan ympäri, 1 pylväs väliin jätettyyn silmukkaan/väliin jätetyn silmukan ympäri "

10.08.2019 - 07:32

country flag Ortuno Catherine wrote:

Je voudrais commander des pelotes Muskat rouge 12 avec un bain particulier 574. Comment faire? Je n'ai pas assez de laine pour finir mon ouvrage. Merci d'avance

03.08.2019 - 08:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine! Vous devez vous adresser à votre magasin DROPS qui saura vous aider. Bon tricot!

03.08.2019 kl. 19:58

country flag Elke wrote:

In anderen Anleitungen steht aber: Maschenprobe 18 Stb = 10 cm (s.o. 17 Stb = 10 cm= Druckfehler?) Und, da A.1 zuerst in Reihen gehäkelt wird, beginnt Häkelschrift dann "rechts" bzw. beginnt die R immer abwechselnd einmal rechts und einmal links? und werden dann am Ende die Wende-Luftmaschen nicht gehäkelt, d.h. ausgelassen? (s. Häkeltipp: Am Anfang jeder Reihe mit Stb 3 Lm häkeln (ersetzen nicht das erste Stäbchen) Sorry, ich versteh's nicht richtig. Danke für Info!

04.06.2019 - 12:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, für dieses Modell muss Ihre Maschenprobe 17 M = 10 cm in der Breite sein. Häkelnadel ist nur einen Vorschlag, passen Sie die Größe an, damit die Maschenprobe richtig ist. Die Wende-Lufmaschen (= A.2) werden zusätzlich zu A.1 gehäkelt, dh sie werden nicht am Ende der Reihe gearbeitet. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.06.2019 kl. 14:23

country flag Elke wrote:

Warum wird in vielen von euren Anleitungen die Maschenprobe NUR mit der Breite angegeben? Ist die Höhe nicht relevant? s.o. : 17 Stäbchen = 10 cm in der Breite.

03.06.2019 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, bei solchen Anleitungen ist die Länge immer in cm gegeben - und dann wird auch dazu geschrieben z.B. daran angepasst, dass die nächste Runde eine Runde mit Stäbchen oder festen Maschen. Bei den ählinchen Modellen (= mit der selben Häkelnadeln - können Sie auch dann eine Maschenprobe in der Reihen finden - hier zum Beispiel. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.06.2019 kl. 15:23

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