DROPS / 190 / 28

Rosalina by DROPS Design

Skirt with fan pattern, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS design: Pattern r-729
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 09, light brown

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.1 shows how every row/round begins and ends (i.e. when working back and forth do not work 1 slip stitch in chain stitch at beginning of row).

At beginning of every row with treble crochets work 3 chain stitches (do not replace first treble crochet). 
At beginning of every row with double crochets work 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet).

Increase on row/round 1, 4, 7, 11 and 12 in pattern A.2b (i.e. increase 6 stitches evenly 5 times in total per repetition of A.2b in height).
Increase by working 2 treble crochets in/around in same stitch. To calculate how often increase should be done on round, use the total number of stitches on row/round (e.g. 132 treble crochets) and divide by number of increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 22. I.e. in this example increase 1 treble crochet in/around/between every 22nd stitch.

Work top down. Work back and forth until vent in the side is done, then work in the round. 
Work 142-156-170-184-212-233 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Muskat. Work first row as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 1 treble crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* = 120-132-144-156-180-198 treble crochets. Work 1 row with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet. Work A.2a 20-22-24-26-30-33 times in total in width. When A.2a has been worked, work A.2b over A.2a (first row in A.2b is from wrong side) and increase as follows (i.e. increase on first round and A.2b is repeated in height): REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! Increase 6 treble crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP - 16-16-17-18-18-20 times in total = 216-228-246-264-288-318 stitches. For every increase work 1 more repetition of A.2b in width AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11 cm, end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, begin round in the side. Fasten off when piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm, finish neatly according to pattern.

Work 1 double crochet in every chain stitch where treble crochets were worked in on first row =
120-132-144-156-180-198 double crochets. Work 3 rows in total with double crochets. Fasten off.

Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops (start at the bottom). Work 2 double crochets around every treble crochet row and 1 double crochet around every double crochet row as follows: Work 1 slip stitch around first row, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm, * work double crochets around next treble crochet/double crochet row, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* 4 times in total and finish with 2 double crochets around the last 2 double crochet rows at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 3 double crochets in every chain space. Fasten off.

Along the other side of opening work 5 rows with 1 double crochet in every double crochet back and forth (on 1st row work 2 double crochet around every treble crochet row and 1 double crochet around every double crochet row), fasten off. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.


= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet in back loop of stitch from right side and in front loop of stitch from wrong side
= double crochet around chain stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
= treble crochet around chain stitch
= skip 1 treble crochet, work 1 treble crochet in/around next treble crochet/chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in stitch that was skipped
= treble crochet group: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet the same way, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook
= 1 double treble crochet in first/last double crochet in the fan 2 rows down (make sure to at the same time work around the chain stitch on the row in the middle)
= increase evenly - see pattern
= first row is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
= row begins with 3 chain stitches, round begins with 3 chain stitches and ends with 1 slip stitch in first stitch in A.2
= row begins with 1 chain stitch, round begins with 1 chain stitch and ends with 1 slip stitch in first stitch in A.2

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Sham Jay 08.11.2019 - 15:05:

I love this skirt and i want to make it for my daughter...but i dont seem to understand the pattern ..could u please get me more clear one so that i can understand.as i am not a professional just an intermediate if u send me the pattern will be so grateful thank you.looking forward to hearing from you.

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 15:56:

Dear Sham Jay, you will find how to read crochet diagrams here in our FAQ - where you can find further assistance; should you have any question, please feel free to ask here or contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone -for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

Marianne 19.07.2019 - 21:47:

Jeg er ret ny i hækling, men har kastet mig over denne fine nederdel. Jeg er i tvivl om, hvad følgende betyder:hækl A.2a total 20-22-24-26-30-33 gange i bredden. jeg hækler en str. S. Jeg har hæklet en række ifht. diagrammet - det giver mig 30 krydsende stangmaskepar på rækken. Er det meningen, jeg skal gentage den række 20 gange? samtidig vil jeg gerne vide, hvad 1 rapport er? MVH Marianne

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 09:47:

Hej, når du hækler den mindste størrelse, så vælger du det første tal i rækken (altså 20 gange). Se her hvordan du hækler efter diagram og hvad en rapport er Hvordan læses et hæklediagram

Jára 11.07.2019 - 20:29:

Prosím, můžete doplnit chybějící nákres schéma A1 a A2. Děkuji

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 22:06:

Milá Járo, díky za upozornění - nákres je doplněný. Příjemné háčkování! Hana

Nardya 11.05.2019 - 13:54:

Hello, thank you for this pattern, I think it is very beautiful. I am wondering if you can help me understand the instruction 1 treble crochet in the first/last chain of fan 2 rows down (make sure to work around chain st in the middle). Do I put a put a treble st in the fan row over the top of the 2 other rows (it does not appear this way in the pic) so can you help me understand how to stitch this line if possible as I couldn’t see a tutorial for it. Deepest gratitude.

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 08:56:

Dear Nardya, on this row work the treble crochet inserting the crochet hook in the 1st /last sc on fan below (the chain stitch from previous row should be automatically worked with the treble crochet). Happy crocheting!

ROSELYNE MOUTHON 31.03.2019 - 18:02:

Bonsoir, Quel est l intérêt d une double- bride au milieu de brides au rang 11? Merci de me répondre

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 13:56:

Bonjour Mme Mouthon, au rang 11, on crochète 1 double bride en piquant dans la ms 2 rangs plus bas et autour de la maille en l'air du rang précédent (on a ainsi la hauteur d'une bride normale). Bon crochet!

Anne Mari Sahlberg 25.03.2019 - 13:06:

A.2b: Er på rad 11 (2 staver i masken) Er det mening at jeg skal hekle dblstav i 1 maske deretter hoppe over enmaske, så 1 luftmaske og så hekle dbl.stav i maske igjen?

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 12:04:

Hei Anne-Marie. Det var en litt utydelig forklaing til det symbolet, vi har nå endret denne. Du hekler altså slik på rad 10: 1 luftmaske, 2 staver i den midterste fastmasken i viften, 1 luftmaske, 2 staver i luftmasken. Gjenta dette ut omgangen. På rad 11 hekler du slik: 1 dobbelstav i den første fastmasken i viften 2 rader under (du hekler da samtidig rundt luftmasken på forrige rad), 1 stav i hver av de neste 2 stavene, 1 dobbelstav i den siste fastmasken i viften 2 rader under, 1 stav i hver av de 2 stav. God fornøyeløse

Marianne 11.03.2019 - 16:44:

Mijn vraag is: moet de aangehaakte bies voor de knopen dubbelgeslagen worden vastgezet (stevigheid knopen)? Ik kan het antwoord nergens vinden. Alvast bedankt. Verder even melden dat dit een heel leuk patroon is!

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 15:25:

Dag Marianne,

Klopt, je vouwt de bies dubbel naar de binnenkant en op de buitenkant naai je de knopen door beide lagen heen.

Vicky 24.02.2019 - 23:20:

Hi, I don't understand what it means on row A. 2a it says work 24 times across the row. When I do 24 clusters of this stitch it only takes me to half way across the length. Should I carry this on to the end of the row before starting A. 2b or should I move on mid row? Many thanks for your help.

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 06:45:

Hi Vicky, Yes, A.2 a consists of 6 stitches and you repeat these 6 stitches 24 times on the row = 144 stitches, which takes you to the end of the row. Happy crocheting!

Jessi 02.02.2019 - 20:46:

Hallo. Mit welcher Maschenart ist die Maschenprobe zu fertigen?

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 11:53:

Liebe Jessi, die Maschenprobe wird mit Stäbchen gehäkelt: 18 Stäbchen und 9 Reihen = 10 x 10 cm. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Fr Schneider 21.01.2019 - 17:34:

Hallo,habe nun zwei mal das Diagramm gehäkelt,doch ich weiß nicht,ob ich immer weiter zunehmen soll,oder nicht.

DROPS Design 22.01.2019 kl. 07:54:

Liebe Frau Schneider, die Zunahmen häkeln Sie n Reihe/Runde 1, 4, 7, 11 und 12 von Muster A.2b und es wird insgesamt 16-16-17-18-18-20 Mal 6 Stäbchen zugenommen. Wenn alle Zunahme fertig sind, haben Sie 216-228-246-264-288-318 Maschen. Wenn Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl noch nicht haben, dann häkeln Sie wie zuvor mit Zunahmen weiter, bis alle Zunahmen gehäkelt sind. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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