DROPS / 64 / 23

Moondance by DROPS Design

DROPS poncho in Ull-Bouclé with crochet flower squares and fringe

DROPS design: Pattern no T-007
Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL
Materials: DROPS Ull-Bouclé from Garnstudio
500-550-600 g colour no 07, brown

DROPS Circular needle size 5 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Ull-Boucle DROPS Ull-Boucle
48% Wool, 32% Acrylic, 20% Polyamide
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 16 stitches x 23 with needle size 5 mm and stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Crochet tension: One flower square crocheted with hook size 4 mm measures approx. 13 x 13 cm.

Pattern: See diagram - M.1. Pattern in diagram seen from right side; whole pattern in stocking stitch.

Ridge/Garter stitch (in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

Knitting tip: All increases worked from right side. Increase on each side of 2 mid stitches by making a yarn over. With these increases there will be a neat row of holes down mid front and back.

Crochet flower square: Work with hook size 4 mm and brown 8 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch.

Row 1: * 1 treble crochet (first treble crochet is replaced by 3 chain stitches), 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 slip stitch in first treble crochet.

Row 2: * 4 treble crochets (first treble crochet is replaced by 4 chain stitches), around chain-space, 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 slip stitch in first treble crochet.

Row 3: * 4 double treble crochets worked together (first double treble crochet is replaced by 4 chain stitches) = wait with last yarn over and pull through in each double treble crochet until all double treble crochets have been worked, make a yarn over and pull through all loops on hook (work 1 double treble crochet in each of the double treble crochets from previous row), 6 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around the 2 chain stitches from previous row, 6 chain stitches, * repeat from *-* 8 times, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double treble crochet-group.

Row 4: Work slip stitches to middle of chain-space, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around chain-space, * 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space , 5 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around next chain-space, 10 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around next chain-space (= corner), 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, then 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 5 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around next chain-space, 10 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around next chain-space (= corner), 5 chain stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.

Poncho: The poncho is worked in 2 parts from neck down (front piece and back piece) and is sewn together in the sides to finish. Each part is worked back and forth with circular needle.

Front piece: Cast on 82-90-100 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with circular needle size 5 mm and brown. Insert 1 marker thread in middle of piece, i.e. after 41-45-50 stitches. Work stocking stitch over all stitches - remember the knitting tension - at the same time, increase every 2nd row - see Knitting tip: 1 stitch x 60-66-71 = 202-222-242 stitches. Loosely cast off.

Back piece: Worked as front piece.

Assembly: Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

Neckline: Knit up with circular needle size 5 mm and brown approx. 160-176-196 stitches around top of neck. Work 1 round stocking stitch at the same time as you decrease to 120-140-160 stitches. Work M.1 for 9 cm, then 1 ridge before casting off. Crochet with hook size 4 mm and brown, a chain-stitch cord of approx. 100-120 cm. Thread this cord in the top row of holes so that the ties are mid front.

Bottom edge: Work 22-24-26 flower squares. Sew the squares together in 2 rows of 11-12-13 squares each. Sew the squares to the bottom edge of the poncho - 1 row on each side and sew the squares together at the corners mid front and back.

Fringe: Make 26-28-30 tassels as follows: 1 tassel = cut 9 strands of approx. 30 cm, fold all strands double and fasten them by threading the ends through a loop. Fasten 1 tassel between all squares + 1 mid front at tip and 1 mid back at tip. Fasten a tassel at each end of the ties in neck.


= knit
= knit 2 together, 1 yarn over
= 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch, K1, pass slipped stitch over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 64-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Marie-france 03.03.2018 - 22:38:

Bonjour, croyez-vous que l'on pourrait faire ce poncho en une partie au lieu d'un devant et un dos séparément. tout comme le modèle 129-16. merci

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 08:45:

Bonjour Marie-France, vous pouvez tout à fait adapter ce modèle à votre goût. N'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin si besoin. Bon tricot!

Marie-France 12.02.2018 - 23:27:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas, en réalité combien y a t'il de mailles entre les augmentations? Ca dit de chaque coté du marqueur, ce marqueur est t'il après la 41 eme maille ou dans la mailles?? et plus haut ca dit: Augmenter de chaque côté des 2 m centrales. Y a t'il 2 mailles entre les jetées?? ou aucune???

DROPS Design 13.02.2018 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Marie-France, le 1er marqueur est au début du tour, le 2ème après 41 m, vous augmentez ensuite de chaque côté de chaque marqueur ainsi: tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 m avant le marqueur, 1 jeté (= 1 augmentation), 1 m end, marqueur, 1 m end, 1 jeté (= 1 augmentation. Bon tricot!

Carme Capdevila 16.10.2016 - 23:37:

He empezado a realizar el poncho pero no he sabido ver cuántas aplicaciones tengo que hacer alrededor, me podríais ayudar sobre esta cuestión? Muchas gracias por su atención y felicitarles por su fantástica web. Saludos Carme

DROPS Design 30.10.2016 kl. 12:34:

Hola Carme. Tienes que hacer 2 tiras con 11-12-13 cuadrados cada una según la talla. (ver el patrón)

Renard 12.07.2016 - 08:13:

Bonjour, Le problème de quantité de pelote réglé, j'ai pu réaliser ce modèle avec succès. Merci Bonne journée

Renard 14.05.2016 - 11:42:

Bonjour, Je réalise ce poncho en taille M/, j'ai été contrainte de faire plusieurs commande de coton. Il est indiqué 550 g . Pour faire le corps (800g), pour les carrés(400g) je n'ai pas fait encore le col et les franges.En drop you 5 Bonne journée

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 11:56:

Bonjour Mme Renard, Ull Bouclé faisait 120 m pour 50 g, alors que DROPS loves you 5 fait seulement 75 m pour 100 g, cliquez ici pour calculer le métrage nécessaire quand vous utilisez une qualité alternative. Bon tricot!

Malzieu 07.02.2016 - 18:02:

Bonsoir j ai commencé votre pancho mais je planche sur la bordure au crochet auriez vous un diagramme qui expliquerez mieux car je ne comprend rien pour faire des fleurs. Merci de votre réponse. Pascale

DROPS Design 08.02.2016 kl. 12:49:

Chère Madame Malzieu, nous n'avons pas de diagramme pour ce modèle, toutefois, la vidéo ci-dessous qui montre comment réaliser le carré (suivez en même temps pas à pas les explications écrites). Bon crochet!

Carina 30.06.2015 - 13:09:

Hei . Jeg lurer på lengden på rundpinnen. Skal det være (40,60 eller 80?) Finner ikke det noe plass :/

DROPS Design 30.06.2015 kl. 14:30:

Hei Carina. Du kan bruge 80 cm til den.

Carina 30.06.2015 - 13:07:

Hei. Jeg lurer på hva lengden på rundpinnen skal være. Finner ikke det noe sted?! (40,60 eller 80?)

Francette Hemery 07.02.2015 - 18:39:

Votre site est génial ,que de jolis modèles , quel plaisir de réaliser ces merveilles . je viens de finir le poncho bordé de carres de fleurs au crochet .... Une merveille !

Cristina 20.11.2014 - 22:17:

Non ho mai visto in vita mia cosi tanti bei modelli .complimenti !!!

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