DROPS / 187 / 16

Portofino by DROPS Design

Knitted tunic with lace pattern and vent in the sides. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-724
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-750 g colour 16, white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch and 16 stitches and 22 rows in lace pattern = width 10 cm and height 10 cm.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 together.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
To make the band lay nicely where decrease for neck begins work a short row over the outermost 4 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.
When working A.7a work the short row from right side of piece as follows: Work all stitches on needle, turn and knit over the 4 stitches in band, turn, knit over the 4 stitches in band, turn and work back over all stitches.
When working A.7b work the short row from right side of piece as follows: Knit over the 4 stitches in band, turn and knit over the 4 stitches in band, turn and work as before over all stitches.
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TUNIC:
Piece is worked back and forth bottom up in parts and sewn together when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 99-117-135-153 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Work pattern as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 10 stitches), A.2 (= 18 stitches) 4-5-6-7 times in width, A.3 (= 9 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch. After first row in A.1 to A.3 there are 89-105-121-137 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 to A.3 have been worked, continue with stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 26-28-30-32 cm. Now work pattern, AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 2-0-4-2 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP (but not over stitches in garter stitch) as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.4 until 5 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.4, 4 stitches in garter stitch = 87-105-117-135 stitches. On next to last row in A.4 increase 3-1-5-3 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP (but not over stitches in garter stitch) = 90-106-122-138 stitches. Work last row from wrong side as follows: Work the first 45-53-61-69 stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder for right front piece. Continue over the last 45-53-61-69 stitches (= left front piece).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 45-53-61-69 stitches. Insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work pattern from right side as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.5a (= 2 stitches), A.5b (= 4 stitches) over the next 8-16-24-32 stitches, A.5c (= 3 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.7a (= 23 stitches). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 10-10-8-8 cm, cast on 8 new stitches at the end of next row from wrong side = 53-61-69-77 stitches. Continue pattern from right side as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.5a, A.5b over the next 16-24-32-40 stitches, and continue A.5c, A.6 and A.7a as before. On row with star in A.7a work a short row so that band lays nicely - read KNITTING TIP! When entire A.7a has been worked vertically, there are 44-52-60-68 stitches for shoulder and piece measures approx. 38 cm in all sizes. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight! Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74 cm from shoulder and down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 45-53-61-69 stitches. Insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work pattern from right side as follows: A.7b (= 23 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.8a (= 3 stitches), A.8b (= 4 stitches) over the next 8-16-24-32 stitches, A.8c (= 2 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 10-10-8-8 cm, cast on 8 new stitches at the end of next row from right side = 53-61-69-77 stitches. Work 1 row in pattern as before but knit over the new stitches cast on. Continue pattern from right side as follows: A.7b, A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.8a, A.8b over the next 16-24-32-40 stitches, A.8c, 4 stitches in garter stitch. On row with star in A.7b work a short row the same way as on left band but reversed, so that band lays nicely - remember KNITTING TIP! When entire A.7b has been worked vertically, there are 44-52-60-68 stitches for shoulder and piece measures approx. 38 cm in all sizes. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight! Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74 cm from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work the same way as on front piece until A.4. Piece now measures 26-28-30-32 cm. Now work pattern, AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 2-0-4-2 stitches evenly (but not over stitches in garter stitch) as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.4 until 5 stitch remain, work first stitch in A.4, 4 stitches in garter stitch = 87-105-117-135 stitches. On next to last row in A.4 increase 4-2-6-4 stitches evenly = 91-107-123-139 stitches. When entire A.4 is done, insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work pattern as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.5a (= 2 stitches), A.5b (= 4 stitches) over the next 8-16-24-32 stitches, A.5c (= 3 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.9a (= 47 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.8a (= 3 stitches), A.8b (= 4 stitches) over the next 8-16-24-32 stitches, A.8c (= 2 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch. When the first 2 rows in A.9a have been worked, repeat A.9b 3 times in total vertically, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-8-8 cm, cast on 8 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for sleeves = 107-123-139-155 stitches. Continue pattern as follows from right side: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.5a (= 2 stitches), A.5b (= 4 stitches) over the next 16-24-32-40 stitches, A.5c (= 3 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.9a (= 47 stitches), A.6 (= 5 stitches), A.8a (= 3 stitches), A.8b (= 4 stitches) over the next 16-24-32-40 stitches, A.8c (= 2 stitches), 4 stitches in garter stitch. When A.9b has been done 3 times in total vertically, work the last 4 rows in diagram A.9a. Work next row from right side as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 30-38-46-54 stitches, work A.9c (= 14 stitches), and slip these 44-52-60-68 stitches on a stitch holder (= right shoulder), cast off the next 19 stitches for neck, work A.9d (= 14 stitches), work the last 30-38-46-54 stitches as before. Now work back and forth over the last 44-52-60-68 stitches worked after decrease for neck (= left shoulder). Continue back and forth until A.9d has been worked vertically. Work 1 ridge over all the 44-52-60-68 stitches. Cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight! Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74 cm from shoulder and down. Slip the 44-52-60-68 stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle size 5 mm and continue pattern back and forth until A.9c has been worked. Work 1 ridge over all the 44-52-60-68 stitches. Cast off - make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74 cm from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitch - make sure the seam is not tight. Sew seam under sleeves and continue down the body until first row in A.4 to make a vent in the side from A.4 and down. Repeat in the other side.
Sew band together mid front by sewing in outermost loop of one and one stitch upwards from first row in A.7a/A.7b and until approx. 7 ridges remain before neck decrease begins.

TWINED STRING AND TASSELS:
Cut 2 lengths of yarn of 65 cm. Twine the strands together until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread the string through each of the bands approx. 12 rows above the neck decrease and make a knot. Cut 15 lengths of yarn of 18 cm. Thread them through end on the twined string and distribute so that they are even. Place a strand around the tassel, tighten and make a knot. Repeat on the other end of string so that there is a tassel in each end of string.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.05.2018
Correction to instructions for BACK PIECE: Continue back and forth until A.9d (NOT A.9b)has been worked vertically. Work 1 ridge over all the 44-52-60-68 stitches.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over to make hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= on row with star in A.7a and A.7b work a short row so that band lays nicely - read KNITTING TIP!
= decrease row: On this row decrease 2-0-4-2 stitches evenly - see explanation in pattern (applies to front and back piece)
= increase row: On front piece increase 3-1-5-3 stitches evenly - see explanation in pattern. On back piece increase 4-2-6-4 stitches evenly - see explanation in pattern.





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Eila Sillman 11.02.2019 - 20:26:

Hej, Någon som har bilden på baksidan av tunikan. Jag har svårt att sammanfatta beskrivningen på mönstret. Hade velat se tydlig bild på det hela ? Har gjort den nedre delen av båda fram och bakstycket, men alla de små mönstren som visas, blir jag tokig av.

Brita 03.02.2019 - 14:23:

Syntes ikke maske antal stemmer overens med mønster? Starter fint med 53 m i mønster men når jeg strikker anden p i mønster, passer det ikke længere. Har pillet op flere gange, men får samme resultat

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 10:22:

Hei Brita. Jeg antar du strikker størrelse M, og er på forstykket da dette er eneste gang du skal ha 53 masker på pinnen. Når du strikker over diagrammer vil det maskeantallet som står i parentes kun stemme med den første omgangen i diagrammet - de videre omgangene kan variere i forhold til dette maskeantallet. Feks strikkes A.5a over 2 masker på første omgang, men 3 masker 2 omgang. Men om du ser på A.5b og A.5c er det tilsvarende forskyvninger her som gjør at det totale maskeantallet på omgangen forblir konstant. God fornøyelse

Sharon 14.01.2019 - 12:21:

Hi I can't seem to find out how much Material in Drops Paris this tunic takes? Can you help?

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 13:04:

Dear Sharon, you will find the required materials in each size under the header, ie 550-600-650-750 g DROPS Paris in size S/M - L - XL/XXL - XXXL. Happy knitting!

Graciela 07.12.2018 - 04:38:

Buenas noches, estoy trabajando el patrón, pero no logro entender cómo es la disminución y vuelta acortada, gracias

DROPS Design 30.12.2018 kl. 15:59:

Hola Graciela. Para las disminuciones se trabajan 2 puntos juntos después de los puntos de la cenefa del escote ( para darle forma de V al escote). Para cómo trabajar las vueltas acortadas puedes consultar este vídeo:

Arlee 11.10.2018 - 15:35:

When will this pattern come in estonian? I've been waiting for months now and I would really love to make it for the next summer.

Mar 06.10.2018 - 20:28:

Hola, estoy tejiendo el poncho y la verdad es que queda muy chulo. Las mangas no salen en el patrón. Me podeis facilitar el número de puntos y el patrón? Gracias

DROPS Design 09.10.2018 kl. 23:27:

Hola Mar. Las mangas se trabajan junto con el cuerpo. ".. AL MISMO TIEMPO cuando la labor mida 10-10-8-8 cm, montar 8 puntos nuevos al final de las siguientes 2 filas para las mangas = 107-123-139-155 puntos."

Regine 08.05.2018 - 21:17:

Bonjour, je pense qu'il y a une erreur vous avez écris : Continuer en allers et retours jusqu'à ce que A.9b ait été tricoté 1 fois en hauteur. D'après moi c'est plutôt A.9d. ceci se trouve dans le haut du dos.

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Régine, vous avez raison, la correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

Tatiana 04.05.2018 - 13:50:

Bonjour Pouvez vous me expliquer : EN MÊME TEMPS, quand l'ouvrage mesure 10-10-8-8 cm, monter 8 mailles à la fin des 2 rangs suivants pour les manches = 107-123-139-155 mailles. j ai pas compris comment il faut monter les mailles, dans quels rangs et pourquoi 2 rang? merci

DROPS Design 04.05.2018 kl. 14:17:

Bonjour Tatiana, à 10-10-8-8 cm de hauteur totale, montez 8 m à la fin du rang, tournez, tricotez le rang suivant et montez 8 m à la fin de ce rang (= vous avez monté 1 fois 8 m de chaque côté). Montez les mailles comme le montre cette vidéo mais des 2 côtés de l'ouvrage (la vidéo montre comment monter les mailles d'un seul côté, ici, vous devez les monter en fin de rang sur l'endroit et en fin de rang sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

Samanta 02.04.2018 - 18:07:

Nelle istruzioni c'è scritto di leggere i suggerimenti per il lavoro ma non ci sono, io ne ho bisogno per fare il ferro accorciato in A.7a e A.7b

DROPS Design 02.04.2018 kl. 20:08:

Buonasrra Samanta, abbiamo corretto il testo: ora sono presenti tutte le informazioni. Buon lavoro!

Fanny 01.04.2018 - 16:13:

Bonjour, dans la légende des diagrammes, il est dit : "faire un jeté entre 2mailles. Au rang suivant, tricoter le jeté à l'envers jeté" Que signifie à l'envers jeté? Est ce qu'il faut juste tricoté le jeté a l'envers? Doit on avoir un grand trou ou un petit? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 03.04.2018 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Fanny, ce n'était qu'une faute de frappe (corrigée, merci), au rang suivant, on tricote le jeté à l'envers. Bon tricot!

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