DROPS / 187 / 7

White Shore by DROPS Design

Crochet jacket with lace pattern, worked in a square from mid back outwards. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Belle.

DROPS Design: Pattern no vs-046
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 01, white

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 treble crochets and 8 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
1 repeat of A.1 measures 7 cm in height measured from the chain stitch ring and up to the middle of the 3 chain-spaces (= middle of diagram).
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each round with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches to the first chain-space on the round.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Work 1 double crochet around the next chain-space, but wait with the last pull through, work the next double crochet around the next chain-space (do not work the 6 chain stitches between the double crochets ), on the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook.

CROCHET TIP (for sleeves):
After the last double crochet on the round, continue to the next round with 1 double crochet around the next chain-space (= the first chain-space on the next round). NOTE: Mark the beginning of the round with a marker thread between the last chain stitch on the round and the first double crochet on the next round; allow the marker thread to follow your work upwards. NOTE: Make sure the marker thread stays in the same place.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is first crocheted in the round from mid back and outwards in a square, then continue back and forth on the front pieces in each side. The sleeves are crocheted in the round from the armholes down.

SQUARE:
Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Belle and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round from the round marked with an arrow in diagram A.1 a total of 4 repeats on the round – read CROCHET INFORMATION. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 14 x 14 cm.

Continue working in the round from the round with an arrow in each diagram as follows: * A.2a, A.3, A.4a *, work from *-* a total of 4 times in the round on each round. When A.2a and A.4a have been completed in height, work A.2b over A.2a and A.4b over A.4a.

Repeat all rounds in A.2b, A.3 and A.4b in height, but for each time you finish A.3 once in height and A.2b and A.4b twice in height, work 2 more repeats of A.3 in width along each side of the square. When the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 x 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm – adjust so that the last round worked is either round 2 or 4 in A.2b and A.4b, work the armholes as follows:
Work pattern as before along the first side of the square (= towards the neck), work (3 treble crochets, 2 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets) around the chain-space in the corner, work 29-30-32-34-35-37 loose chain stitches, skip half the stitches/ chain-spaces along the next side of the square (= armhole) and work 1 double crochet around the next chain-space (= middle chain-space on the side), continue the pattern as before along the rest of this side and along the whole of the next side (= down along the body), work pattern as before as far as the middle chain-space along the next side, work 1 double crochet around the next chain-space (= the middle chain-space on the side), work 29-30-32-34-35-37 loose chain stitches, skip the remaining stitches/ chain-spaces along the side and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the start of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the chain-space in the corner. Continue with pattern in the round as before, but over the new chain stitches worked for the armholes, work treble crochets and double crochets around these chain stitches instead of in them. When the piece measures approx. 72-74-76-78-80-82 x 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm, the square is finished – adjust to after a complete repeat of A.2b, A.3b and A.4b in height. Cut the strand. Then finish working the front pieces separately back and forth.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side in the corner with a black star – see sketch, and work the same pattern back and forth as follows:
Start on the row marked with a black square and work A.5 (= 1 double crochet around the chain-space in the corner and 1 double crochet in the 2nd treble crochet), work A.3 as before along the whole side, finish with A.6 (= 1 double crochet around the chain-space in the next corner). Turn and continue back and forth like this until the front piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm from the center of the square – adjust so that you finish after the last row in A.3. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Left front piece is worked in the same way as the right front piece, but start from the right side by the corner marked with a black spot – see sketch.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked in the round from the crochet square and down. Fasten the strand mid under the sleeve by working 1 double crochet.
ROUND 1: Work * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the chain-space /row of chain stitches worked for the armhole *, work from *-* a total of 19-20-21-22-23-24 times around the armhole (= 19-20-21-22-23-24 chain-spaces). Read CROCHET TIP (for sleeves). Continue by working 6 chain stitches and 1 double crochet around each chain-space. When the piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 chain-space before the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this alternately on every other side of the marker thread, approx. every 8-8-7-6-6-6 cm a total of 4-4-5-6-6-6 times = 15-16-16-16-17-18 chain-spaces. When the piece measures 39 cm in all sizes, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on round mid under sleeve.
Now work an edge around the bottom of the sleeve as follows: Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of the round, (3 treble crochets, 2 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets) around each of the chain-spaces, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

CROCHET EDGE:
Now work a finishing edge around the whole jacket as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 double crochet in the outermost stitch in the top corner on the right front piece.
ROUND 1: Work * 6 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the next chain-space /in the middle one of the 3 treble crochets in the treble crochet group between chain-spaces in the pattern *, work from *-* to end of round, but work an extra chain-space around the chain-space in each corner and when working along the sides of the front pieces, skip approx. 2 cm. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first stitch on the round.

Diagram

= 5 chain stitches, form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at start of round. Black spot is start of round
= 1 chain stitch
= 1 treble crochet around the chain-space /chain stitch ring
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 double treble crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet in stitch. NOTE! The last double crochet in A.1, A.4a/A.4b are to be worked in the mid stitch of the 3 treble crochets on the previous round
= 1 double crochet around chain-space
= 6 chain stitches
= Begin on this round – see description in text.
= when working back and forth on the front pieces, start on this row - see description in text. Then repeat all the rounds in the diagram in height.
= work right front piece by starting from this side from the right side
= work left front piece by starting from this side from the right side



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Carrole Lebel 23.09.2019 - 15:06:

Bonjour! J’ai reçu un message courriel de votre part m’informant qu’une réponse à ma question a été donné . Par contre, aucune réponse n'a été donné à ma question. Pourriez-vous SVP me faire parvenir votre réponse à nouveau? Merci

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 15:25:

Bonjour Mme Lebel, vos deux questions précédentes ont toutes deux reçu une réponse - cf ci-dessous. Bon crochet!

Carrole Lebel 23.09.2019 - 13:50:

Merci pour votre réponse concernant le diagramme A5. C'est apprécié. . Ma question concerne le diagramme A.6. Est-ce que les trois symboles « l » illustrés verticalement dans le diagramme A.6 signifient 3 mailles en l'air (rangs 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, à partir de la flèche) même si leur graphie est différente? Merci!

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 15:21:

Bonjour Mme Lebel, tout à fait, 1 tiret = 1 maille en l'air, donc dans A.5, on a 1 ml, 1 ms, et dans A.6, 1 ms en fin de rang et 3 ml en début de rang. Bon crochet!

Lebel, Carrole 20.09.2019 - 21:29:

Bonjour! J'ai deux questions. 1) Que veut dire le symbole « I » accompagnant VI que l'on retrouve dans A5 et le symbole « / » dans le diagramme A6? 2) Je n'arrive pas à repérer les endroits où il faut faire des double brides dans les schémas. Pourriez-vous m'indiquer où elles se trouvent SVP ? Mille mercis pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:09:

Bonjour Mme Lebel, le I correspond à 1 maille en l'air (= cf 2ème symbole de la légende) et le v à 1 maille serrée, vous allez ainsi commencer le rang par 1 maille en l'air, puis 1 maille serrée. Les diagrammes vont être vérifiés pour savoir si les double-brides sont utilisées, merci pour votre retour. Bon crochet!

Carrole Lebel 13.09.2019 - 17:51:

Concernant la technique pour crocheter les emmanchures, vous avez proposé à une personne quelques photos expliquant une façon de faire sur le forum DROPS (DROPS Design 20.07.2018 kl. 14:26). Serait-il possible d’accéder à ces quelques photos car je suis perdue dans les explications écrites. Merci beaucoup pour m’aider dans la réalisation de ce projet.

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 08:23:

Bonjour Mme Lebel, les photos sont momentanément indisponibles pour des raisons techniques. Pour crocheter les emmanchures, vous allez sauter des mailles du carré (côté carré = emmanchure dos) que vous allez remplacer par des mailles en l'air (= emmanchure coté devant). Au rang suivant, crochetez dans les chaînettes comme avant, autrement dit, comme s'il n'y avait pas eu ces deux "trous" pour les manches. Bon crochet!

M Methorst 26.08.2019 - 16:27:

Zou zo graag dit vest willen haken maar ik kom niet verder dan het eerste vierkant. Is er een hele duidelijke beschrijving van dit patroon, heb al op you Tube gekeken maar zie niks.

Jean Whiting 14.07.2019 - 01:09:

I really don't understand this pattern! I've watched the video and completed the same as video and now it tell me to complete a2. But not sure where to start with it. Do I start from the arrow. And how many times do I have to do this pattern. I'm not sure how to follow on. This ain't a good guide.

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 11:38:

Dear Mrs Whiting, after you have worked A.1, you now continue the same way but following new diagrams: A.2a in the corners, A.3 over the next stitches, and finish with A.4a before next corner. Continue that way following diagrams until the square has the right measurements. read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Marieeve Stalter 27.04.2019 - 07:29:

Bonjour , moi je bloque de suite j'ai fais le carré comme sur la vidéo , et apres j'arrive plus , pour le 1er carré on fait 3 brides 2 mailles en l'air et a nouveau 3 brides , ensuite si on continue on se retrouve plus que avec 1x3 brides pourriez vous m'aider j'ai horreur de laisser tomber un crochet ou un pull que j'arrive pas à faire merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 08:22:

Bonjour Mme Stalter, on répète 4 fois A.1 en largeur pour former le carré - cette vidéo montre comment crocheter A.1. Vous trouverez plus ici d'infos sur les diagrammes . Bon crochet!

Henker Bettina 19.11.2018 - 17:55:

Hallo vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe, bin auch gut vorwärts gekommen. Jetzt bin ich bei A5 und A6 angekommen und verstehe die Häkelschrift am Rand nicht. Bei A5 dieses Zeichen vI und bei A6 I und / . Außerdem ist beschrieben vom * -* Häkeln . Aber an den Diagrammen kann ich kein * finden? Bitte noch mal um Hilfe.

DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 08:09:

Liebe Frau Bettina, die Reihen in A.5 die mit vi anfangen sind diejenigen, die rechts nach links gehäkelt sind (Vorderseite): 1 Wendeluftmasche, 1 feste Masche in das Stäbchen, dann 1 fM um den LmBogen. In A.6 fangen alle Rückreihen mit 3 Luftmaschen, dann häkeln Sie das erste LmBogen usw. Am Ende der Hinreihen häkeln Sie 1 fM in das 3. Lm von der vorrigen Reihe. Die * sind nicht im Diagram nur in der schriftlichen Anleitung beschrieben, dh z.B. * A.2a, A.3, A.4a *, von *-* häkeln = die 3 Diagramme so häkeln, und die 3 so wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Henker Bettina 13.11.2018 - 22:54:

Alle Runden von A.2b, A.3 und A.4b in der Höhe wiederholen, dabei jedes Mal, wenn A.3 1 x in der Höhe gehäkelt wurde und A.2b und A.4b 2 x in der Höhe gehäkelt wurden, je 2 Rapporte mehr von A.3 in der Breite an allen 4 Seiten des Vierecks häkeln. Das verstehe ich nicht, weiß nicht weiter.

DROPS Design 14.11.2018 kl. 08:33:

Liebe Frau Henker, wenn Sie die Diagramme häkeln, wird es in den Ecken zugenommen, dh Sie haben dann genügend Maschen um 2 Rapporte mehr von A.3 in der Breite zwischen den Ecken zu häkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Henker Bettina 07.11.2018 - 20:41:

Hallo, das Muster lässt sich sehr einfach häkeln. Jedoch ist die Beschreibung zum Übergang der Ärmel schlecht verständliche. Mir hat am Anfang das Video sehr geholfen. Es wäre sehr hilfreich wenn es ein Video gibt, wie das mit den Ärmeln geht.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 187-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.