DROPS / 188 / 1

Tornade by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with garter stitch and round yoke, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no as-090
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-175-200-225-250-250 g colour 14, light grey green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 26 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for round yoke):
Increase stitches alternately before and after the last knitted stitch in A.1 – See arrow in diagram. i.e. the first increase is after the last knitted stitch and the second is increased before the last knitted stitch. Increase as follows: Make 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, the yarn over is worked twisted on the next round. Then the increased stitch is worked in garter stitch. In other words for each increased stitch, there will be 1 more stitch in garter stitch in the A.1 you are increasing in.


INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases in sides of body and sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at each marker thread. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. The yoke is worked in the round, then the piece is divided and the sleeves and body are then worked separately in the round.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-88-94-98-102-104 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. The round starts mid back.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches and increase 3-4-3-4-3-5 stitches evenly over these stitches (= half back piece), * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches (= sleeve = 10 stitches increased), knit 32-34-37-39-41-42 stitches and increase 6-9-6-8-6-10 stitches evenly over these stitches (= front piece), * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches (= sleeve = 10 stitches increased), knit 16-17-19-20-21-21 stitches and increase 4-5-3-5-4-5 stitches evenly over these stitches (= half back piece) = 117-126-126-135-135-144 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work A.1 (= 3 stitches) over all stitches (= 39-42-42-45-45-48 times in width), work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. AT THE SAME TIME increase as follows:

ROUND YOKE:
Increase alternately in every 3rd repeat of A.1 in width every 4th round, i.e. as follows:
1st INCREASE: * Increase 1 stitch – read INCREASE TIP-1, in the first A.1, then work 2 repeats of A.1 in width as before *, work from *-* to end of round = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rounds of pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
2nd INCREASE: * Work 1 repeat of A.1 as before, increase 1 stitch in the next A.1, work the next repeat of A.1 as before *, work from *-* to end of round = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rounds of pattern.
3rd INCREASE: * Work 2 repeats of A.1 as before, increase 1 stitch in the next A.1 *, work from *-* to end of round = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rounds of pattern.
Repeat 1st to 3rd increase a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times (= a total of 9-9-9-9-12-12 increase rounds), then repeat 1st increase, 0-1-1-1-1-1 more time (= a total of 9-10-10-10-13-13 increase rounds), then repeat 2nd increase, 0-0-1-1-0-1 more time (= a total of 9-10-11-11-13-14 increase rounds) = 234-266-280-300-330-368 stitches.
Continue with pattern until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge.
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 31-36-38-42-47-55 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the next 63-73-76-84-95-110 stitches (= front piece), place the next 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches (=in side under sleeve), knit 32-37-38-42-48-55 stitches (=half the back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 142-162-172-188-214-244 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the sleeves were placed on threads, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 2½-3-3- 2½-3-5 cm a total of 10-9-9-10-9-6 times = 182-198-208-228-250-268 stitches. When the piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm from where the sleeves were placed on threads, work 1 round as before where you increase 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 184-200-208-228-252-268 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work rib (purl 2 / knit 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight; you can cast off with a needle 1 size larger if necessary. The piece measures approx. 36-36-37-37-37-37 cm from where the sleeves and body were separated and a total of 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
Place the 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these stitches = 62-68-74-76-82-86 stitches. Work stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Change to short circular needles when needed. Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches.
Then increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm a total of 7-6-6-7-7-7 times = 68-72-76-80-84-88 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-36-36-34-33 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. Then work rib (= purl 2 / knit 2) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on the first round = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when piece measures 42-42-41-41-39-38 cm from where the sleeve was divided from the body and a total of 63-65-65-67-67-68 cm from the neck edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.04.2018
Updated diagram
Updated online: 20.04.2018
Updated diagram and updated the increase tip 1 section

Diagram

= Knit
= Purl
= In the yoke shaping section, this is the stitch you increase before or after alternately. See Increase tip 1

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Birgit Larsen 24.03.2020 - 12:56:

Jeg klarer ikke å få med meg økningene. Har lest kommentarer om dette men blir ikke klokere. Skal økningene gjøres i omgangene som har en rett to vrang? Og når det står rille trodde jeg det er en omgang rett og en omgang vrang? Tror jeg må gi opp😢 Hva er en rapport?

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 13:46:

Hej Birgit, når du starter består rapporten af de 3 masker du ser i diagrammet. Du øger på hver 4. pind. Du øger efter de 2 masker retstrik i første rapport, så i 4.rapport, så i 7.rapport osv i hver 3. hele omgangen rundt. Når du så har strikket 3 pinde mere, øger du igen på 4. omgang men nu øger du i 2.rapport, 5.rapport, 8.rapport osv. Således fortsætter du hele omgangen rundt. God fornøjelse!

Birgit Larsen 23.03.2020 - 19:37:

Diagram A.1 består det av en omgang med bare rett hver 3. Omgang? Starter det med første omgang rett andre omgang rett, vrang , rett, vrang og tredje omgang samme som omgang to?

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 07:37:

Hei Birgit, A.1 består av annenhver omgang rett og annenhver omgang 2 vrang, 1 rett, 2 vrang, 1 rett osv. Diagrammet leses fra høyre til venstre og fra bunn oppover. God fornøyelse!

Malene Grove 15.01.2020 - 14:53:

Hej Hvor finder jeg diagrammet? Synes ikke jeg kan se det nogen steder, men måske det bare er mig.

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 15:05:

Hej Malene, Diagrammet er nederst i opskriften til højre for måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

Frauke 10.12.2019 - 17:54:

Guten Tag! Ich möchte den Pullover gerne stricken. In der Anleitung ist die Rede von dem Diagram A1 für die Musterpasse. Leider kann ich das Diagramm nirgens finden. Wo hat es sich wohl versteckt? Vielen Dank & Gruß Frauke

Frauke 10.12.2019 - 17:52:

Guten Tag! In der Anleitung ist die Rede von eime Diagramm A1, aus dem das Muster ersichtlich ist. Leider kann ich das Diagramm A1 nirgens in der Anleitung finden. Wo hat es sich versteckt? Lieben Dank & Gruß Frauke

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 08:03:

Liebe Frau Frauke, das Diagram finden Sie neben der Maßskizze, unter der Ärmel - es ist ein kleines Diagram, das über 3 Maschen und 4 Reihen gestrickt wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Caroline Le Goff 10.12.2019 - 12:38:

Ou est le diagramme je ne le vois pas ?

DROPS Design 10.12.2019 kl. 13:26:

Bonjour Mme Le Goff, vous trouverez le diagramme A.1 à droite du schéma des mesures, juste sous la manche. C'est un petit diagramme de 3 mailles sur 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

Katie 18.06.2019 - 18:22:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Rundpassenzunahme. Wie muss ich die Maschen, die ich zunehme, in der darauffolgenden Reihe stricken? Links oder rechts? Und verstehe ich das richtig, dass sich die Abstände zwischen den "Gräten" dementsprechend immer verbreitern? Ich würde mich sehr über eine Antwort freuen!

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 07:00:

Liebe Katie, die Zunahmen werden krausrechts gestrickt, dh entweder links oder rechts je nach dem Sie bei einer rechte oder einer linke Runde zunehmen. Die Maschenanzahl zwischen den rechten Maschen soll ja zunehmen, die Maschen nehmen Sie in alle 2. Krausrechtsbereich zu, so daß sind es am Ende der Passe die selbe Maschenanzahl in jedem Krausrechtsbereich (= zwischen die rechten Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mela 02.06.2019 - 22:23:

Liebes Drops-Team, sehe ich es richtig, dass bei der Rundpasse durch die Zunahme mal rechts und mal links von der rechten Masche die Anzahl der Maschen in den einzelnen A1 unterschiedlich ist? Irgendwann gleicht es sich wieder aus, jedoch wären bei mir in Größe M am Ende der Passenzunahmen das 1. Und 2.A1 je 7 Maschen und das 3. A1 nur 5 Maschen. Ist das richtig so? Auf dem Foto lässt es sich nicht genau erkennen. Vielen Dank und Gruß!

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:30:

Liebe Mela, es wird immer in jedem 3. Rapport von A.1 zugenommen, beachten Sie daß Sie immer 13 Maschen pro Zunahmenrunde zunehmen, so haben Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl am Ende der Passe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Liv Eva Bates 23.05.2019 - 14:55:

Hei, skal det i 4. økning (eller 1. økning på nytt) økes før eller etter siste rettmaske? Turen er før, men der står gjernta 1. til 3. økning så det kan gi inntrykk av øke etter som i første omgang.

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 07:36:

Hei Liv. Du øker vekselsvis før og etter siste masken i A.1. dvs 4. gang du øker økes det før siste masken (1. økning = etter masken, 2. økning = før masken, 3 økning = etter masken). - se øketips 1. Du øker i hver tredje A.1: første økeomgang øker du i den første A.1 og strikker de neste 2 som vanlig (gjenta ut omgangen), andre økeomgang strikkes første A.1 uten øking, så økes det i andre A.1, og tredje A.1 strikkes uten økning (gjenta ut omgangen). Tredje økeomgang strikkes de 2 første A.1 uten øking, og det økes i den tredje A.1 (gjenta ut omgangen). God fornøyelse

Sandra 16.04.2019 - 11:51:

Hur tvättar man denna tröja?

DROPS Design 16.04.2019 kl. 17:57:

Hej, du hittar tvättinstruktionerna på insidan av banderollen.

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