DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Marea

Knitted jacket worked in a circle with garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS 188-35
DROPS design: Pattern as-086
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL – XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
225-250-300-300 g colour 15, light sea green

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are done on 1 round with knit.
Work until the knit stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= the knit stitch), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at every knit stitch (= 32 stitches increased on round). Purl the increased stitches twisted on next round to avoid holes. Then work them in garter stitch until finished measurements.
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JACKET WORKED IN A CIRCLE:
Piece is worked from the centre and outwards, first work back and forth and then in the round. Divide the piece, cast off stitches and work back and forth on each front piece. Work sleeves back and forth separately and sew them on when finished.

CIRCLE:
First work back and forth on 2 double pointed needles, then work in the round on 5 double pointed needles. Switch to circular needle when there are enough stitches.
Cast on 8 stitches with Brushed Alpaca Silk on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of 1 stitch) back and forth. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 32 stitches on row. Piece measures approx. 6 cm in diameter. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 16 repetitions of 2 stitches). Round begins mid back of neck. Continue this pattern, i.e. increase 2 stitches in every repetition every 10th round. Work until piece measures 36-38-40-42 cm in diameter = approx. 192-224-224-256 stitches (= 32 knit stitches with approx. 5-6-6-7 stitches in garter stitch between each).
Make armholes as follows (adjust so that the next 2 rounds are not increase rounds): Work the first 31-33-35-37 stitches as before, cast off the next 28-32-36-38 stitches (make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, use a larger needle if needed), work as before until 59-65-71-75 stitches remain (= approx. 74-94-82-106 stitches), cast off the next 28-32-36-38 stitches, work the last 31-33-35-37 stitches as before.

On next round cast on 28-32-36-38 new stitches over the cast off stitches in each side (make sure to avoid a tight cast-on edge) = approx. 192-224-224-256 stitches.
Now work pattern over A.2 as follows: * work in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, until 2nd knit stitch in first /next repetition of A.2 (= approx. 6-7-7-8 stitches in garter stitch, i.e. work in garter stitch over first knit stitch), knit 1 as before (= the knit stitch), garter stitch over the last stitches in A.2 (= 5-6-6-7 stitches, i.e. there is only 1 knit stitch in every repetition) *, work from *-* the entire round (= 16 knit stitches in total on round with approx. 11-13-13-15 stitches in garter stitch between each). Continue pattern until finished measurements AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch on each side of every knit stitch every 10th round as before – read INCREASE TIP.
Continue like this until piece measures 96-102-108-112 cm in diameter, adjust so that last round is purled over stitches in garter stitch = approx. 480-544-576-608 stitches.
Now divide the piece for front pieces as follows: Cast of the first 40-45-48-51 stitches, knit over the next 120-135-144-153 stitches (= left front piece), cast off stitches until 160-180-192-204 stitches remain (= approx. 160-184-192-200 stitches cast off), knit over the next 120-135-144-153 stitches (= right front piece), then slip them on a stitch holder, cast off the last 40-45-48-51 stitches. Cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue pattern back and forth over the 120-135-144-153 stitches (1st row = from wrong side) AT THE SAME TIME cast off the first 2-3-3-3 stitches at beginning over every row (i.e. cast off 2-3-3-3 stitches in each side). Continue pattern and cast off like this until piece measures 63-63-66-68 cm in total from centre of circle (i.e. front piece measures approx. 15-12-12-12 cm) = approx. 20-15-24-33 stitches remain. Cast off the remaining stitches.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve back and forth on needle/circular needle.
Cast on 38-42-42-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 3) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side of piece. When piece measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece. When piece measures 10 cm, adjust so that next row is from right side, increase 1 stitch, by making a yarn over inside 2 stitches in each side of piece = 2 stitches increased. Purl yarn over twisted on next row (= from wrong side), it should not make holes. Increase like this every 3-2½-2-1½ cm 11-12-15-17 times in total = 60-66-72-80 stitches.
When piece measures 42-42-40-40 cm, cast off stitches for sleeve cap at beginning of every row (i.e. in each side of piece) as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, then 1 stitch 14-18-20-26 times in total, then cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every other row (i.e. in each side of piece) 7-6-7-5 times in total = 12 stitches. Piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57 cm. Cast off the remaining stitches. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves and sew underarm seam inside 1 edge stitch. Sew the inner circle together in outermost loop of edge stitch (= approx. 3 cm seam).

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row/round; it should not make a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Virginie wrote:

Bonjour J’ai tricoté la première manche et sa forme semble être adaptée pour une emmanchure raglan. Hors le modèle n’est pas en raglan du coup ma manche ne s’adapte pas à la veste.

03.10.2021 - 12:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Virginie, le haut de la manche ne correspond pas exactement à une manche raglan, mais vous devez diminuer comme indiqué pour que le haut de la manche s'ajuste avec les emmanchures - épinglez si besoin votre manche pour que le milieu soit tout en haut et que le milieu sous la manche se trouver en bas de l'emmanchure. Si vos mesures sont justes, alors la tête de la manche va s'ajuster impeccablement dans le trou formé pour l'emmanchure. Bon tricot!

04.10.2021 - 08:25

country flag Camilla Lenita wrote:

Hur utläser jag måttskissen på cirkelstickade plagg? Var kan jag se bystmåttet t.ex.? Är det siffrorna 96, 102, 108 och 112 på denna skiss?

12.05.2020 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, siffrorna 96-102-108-112 är diametern på cirklen och 15-12-12-12 är kanterna mot mitt fram, så det mäter på det bredaste 126-126-132-136 cm. Lycka till :)

15.05.2020 - 09:03

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hallo, Ik begrijp de beschrijving van het afkanten voor de mouw niet goed. Is het de bedoeling dat er 3 steken aan het begin van de naald worden afgekant, dus bij de naald heen en bij de naald terug. En dat er 14 keer aan beide kanten op de pen ( dus in 1 naald) 1 steek wordt afgekant. En tot slot nog 7 keer aan het begin van de naald, dus bij de naald heen en terug. Anders kom ik niet op 12 steken over en de 13 cm aan hoogte erbij. Graag uw opheldering.

21.02.2019 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

Het klopt precies zoals je het begrijpt. Je kant de heengaande en de teruggaande naald af, zodat je aan beide kanten van de mouw afkant.

26.02.2019 - 09:43

country flag Joke Van Ees wrote:

Is het patroon over 1 of 2 pennen per hokje.en hoe ga je veder met A2ik begrijp er niks van , zal u mijn dat willen uit leggen .

19.02.2019 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

Een hokje is een steek en je begint het telpatroon onderaan en werkt naar boven toe. Je leest de steken in het telpatroon van rechts naar links. Als je 1 rij klaar hebt, lees je de volgende rij weer van rechts naar links, totdat je alle rijen (= naalden) gebreid hebt.

21.02.2019 - 11:11

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Bij het breien van het voorpand staat: brei verder in patroon. Mijn vraag is: moet er na elke 10e naald ook gemeerderd worden? Of hoeft dat niet meer?

31.01.2019 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

Nee, je hoeft dan inderdaad niet meer te meerderen.

03.02.2019 - 11:52

country flag Jantina Strangmann wrote:

Graag zou ik willen weten of het aantal gr. klopt met het patroon, lijkt mij dat er meer in gaat dan 250 gr.

04.10.2018 - 13:29

country flag Lizeth wrote:

Weten jullie al hoeveel garen erin gaat? Ik heb nog 125 gram BrushedAlpacaSilk en zoek een leuk patroon

25.01.2018 - 13:13