DROPS / 188 / 35

Marea by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket worked in a circle with garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS design: Pattern as-086
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL – XXXL
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
225-250-300-300 g colour 15, light sea green

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

All increases are done on 1 round with knit.
Work until the knit stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= the knit stitch), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at every knit stitch (= 32 stitches increased on round). Purl the increased stitches twisted on next round to avoid holes. Then work them in garter stitch until finished measurements.

Piece is worked from the centre and outwards, first work back and forth and then in the round. Divide the piece, cast off stitches and work back and forth on each front piece. Work sleeves back and forth separately and sew them on when finished.

First work back and forth on 2 double pointed needles, then work in the round on 5 double pointed needles. Switch to circular needle when there are enough stitches.
Cast on 8 stitches with Brushed Alpaca Silk on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of 1 stitch) back and forth. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 32 stitches on row. Piece measures approx. 6 cm in diameter. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 16 repetitions of 2 stitches). Round begins mid back of neck. Continue this pattern, i.e. increase 2 stitches in every repetition every 10th round. Work until piece measures 36-38-40-42 cm in diameter = approx. 192-224-224-256 stitches (= 32 knit stitches with approx. 5-6-6-7 stitches in garter stitch between each).
Make armholes as follows (adjust so that the next 2 rounds are not increase rounds): Work the first 31-33-35-37 stitches as before, cast off the next 28-32-36-38 stitches (make sure to avoid a tight cast-off edge, use a larger needle if needed), work as before until 59-65-71-75 stitches remain (= approx. 74-94-82-106 stitches), cast off the next 28-32-36-38 stitches, work the last 31-33-35-37 stitches as before.

On next round cast on 28-32-36-38 new stitches over the cast off stitches in each side (make sure to avoid a tight cast-on edge) = approx. 192-224-224-256 stitches.
Now work pattern over A.2 as follows: * work in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, until 2nd knit stitch in first /next repetition of A.2 (= approx. 6-7-7-8 stitches in garter stitch, i.e. work in garter stitch over first knit stitch), knit 1 as before (= the knit stitch), garter stitch over the last stitches in A.2 (= 5-6-6-7 stitches, i.e. there is only 1 knit stitch in every repetition) *, work from *-* the entire round (= 16 knit stitches in total on round with approx. 11-13-13-15 stitches in garter stitch between each). Continue pattern until finished measurements AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch on each side of every knit stitch every 10th round as before – read INCREASE TIP.
Continue like this until piece measures 96-102-108-112 cm in diameter, adjust so that last round is purled over stitches in garter stitch = approx. 480-544-576-608 stitches.
Now divide the piece for front pieces as follows: Cast of the first 40-45-48-51 stitches, knit over the next 120-135-144-153 stitches (= left front piece), cast off stitches until 160-180-192-204 stitches remain (= approx. 160-184-192-200 stitches cast off), knit over the next 120-135-144-153 stitches (= right front piece), then slip them on a stitch holder, cast off the last 40-45-48-51 stitches. Cut and fasten the thread.

Continue pattern back and forth over the 120-135-144-153 stitches (1st row = from wrong side) AT THE SAME TIME cast off the first 2-3-3-3 stitches at beginning over every row (i.e. cast off 2-3-3-3 stitches in each side). Continue pattern and cast off like this until piece measures 63-63-66-68 cm in total from centre of circle (i.e. front piece measures approx. 15-12-12-12 cm) = approx. 20-15-24-33 stitches remain. Cast off the remaining stitches.

Work as left front piece.

Work sleeve back and forth on needle/circular needle.
Cast on 38-42-42-46 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 3) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side of piece. When piece measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of piece. When piece measures 10 cm, adjust so that next row is from right side, increase 1 stitch, by making a yarn over inside 2 stitches in each side of piece = 2 stitches increased. Purl yarn over twisted on next row (= from wrong side), it should not make holes. Increase like this every 3-2½-2-1½ cm 11-12-15-17 times in total = 60-66-72-80 stitches.
When piece measures 42-42-40-40 cm, cast off stitches for sleeve cap at beginning of every row (i.e. in each side of piece) as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 1 time, then 1 stitch 14-18-20-26 times in total, then cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every other row (i.e. in each side of piece) 7-6-7-5 times in total = 12 stitches. Piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57 cm. Cast off the remaining stitches. Knit another sleeve the same way.

Sew in sleeves and sew underarm seam inside 1 edge stitch. Sew the inner circle together in outermost loop of edge stitch (= approx. 3 cm seam).


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row/round; it should not make a hole

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

Yvonne 26.02.2019 - 17:14:

Dan brei ik dus: 2 pennen om 3 steken af te kanten, 14 pennen waarbij ik aan het begin en einde 1 steek afkant (????) en weer 14 pennen om 1 steek af te kanten. Dat is samen 30 pennen en zou een totaalhoogte van plm. 13 cm zijn. Kant ik alleen aan het begin van de pen af, dan kom ik op 44 pennen= 20 cm hoogte! Als ik de Duitse beschrijving lees, dan staat er dat je de laatste 7 steken om de tweede naald afkant....! M.a.w. nog meer pennen. Kortom zit er geen fout in het patroon?

Yvonne 21.02.2019 - 14:29:

Hallo, Ik begrijp de beschrijving van het afkanten voor de mouw niet goed. Is het de bedoeling dat er 3 steken aan het begin van de naald worden afgekant, dus bij de naald heen en bij de naald terug. En dat er 14 keer aan beide kanten op de pen ( dus in 1 naald) 1 steek wordt afgekant. En tot slot nog 7 keer aan het begin van de naald, dus bij de naald heen en terug. Anders kom ik niet op 12 steken over en de 13 cm aan hoogte erbij. Graag uw opheldering.

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 09:43:

Dag Yvonne,

Het klopt precies zoals je het begrijpt. Je kant de heengaande en de teruggaande naald af, zodat je aan beide kanten van de mouw afkant.

Joke Van Ees 19.02.2019 - 17:03:

Is het patroon over 1 of 2 pennen per hokje.en hoe ga je veder met A2ik begrijp er niks van , zal u mijn dat willen uit leggen .

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 11:11:

Dag Joke,

Een hokje is een steek en je begint het telpatroon onderaan en werkt naar boven toe. Je leest de steken in het telpatroon van rechts naar links. Als je 1 rij klaar hebt, lees je de volgende rij weer van rechts naar links, totdat je alle rijen (= naalden) gebreid hebt.

Yvonne 31.01.2019 - 16:34:

Bij het breien van het voorpand staat: brei verder in patroon. Mijn vraag is: moet er na elke 10e naald ook gemeerderd worden? Of hoeft dat niet meer?

DROPS Design 03.02.2019 kl. 11:52:

Dag Yvonne,

Nee, je hoeft dan inderdaad niet meer te meerderen.

Jantina Strangmann 04.10.2018 - 13:29:

Graag zou ik willen weten of het aantal gr. klopt met het patroon, lijkt mij dat er meer in gaat dan 250 gr.

Lizeth 25.01.2018 - 13:13:

Weten jullie al hoeveel garen erin gaat? Ik heb nog 125 gram BrushedAlpacaSilk en zoek een leuk patroon

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