DROPS / 188 / 12

Francine by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with garter stitch and round yoke, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no as-095
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
175-175-200-225-250-250 g colour 14, light grey green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 26 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7 items.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 1.80 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 1.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for yoke):
Increase stitches alternately before and after the last knitted stitch in A.1 – See arrow in diagram. i.e. the first increase is after the last knitted stitch and the second is increased before the last knitted stitch. Increase as follows: Make 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row. Then the increased stitch is worked in garter stitch. In other words, each time you increase there will be 1 more stitch in garter stitch in the A.1 you increased in.


INCREASE TIP-2 (for increases in sides of body and on sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads on the body. The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side, when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the last stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. The next 6 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 7-7½-7½-8-8-8 cm between each one.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth, top down. The yoke is worked, then you divide the piece and the sleeves and body are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles /short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 94-98-104-108-112-114 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches and increase 4-5-4-5-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches (= left front piece), * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches (= left sleeve = 10 stitches increased), knit 32-34-37-39-41-42 stitches and increase 6-9-6-8-6-10 stitches evenly over these stitches (= back piece), * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 10 stitches (= right sleeve = 10 stitches increases), knit 16-17-19-20-21-21 stitches and increase 4-5-3-5-4-5 stitches evenly over these stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece) = 128-137-137-146-146-155 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side, the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work the next row from the right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 3 stitches) until there are 5 stitches left (= 39-42-42-45-45-48 times in width), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME as you increase as follows:

YOKE SHAPING:
Increase alternately in every 3rd repeat of A.1 in width every 4th row (= from the right side) as follows:
INCREASE 1: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, * increase 1 stitch – read INCREASE TIP-1, in first A.1, then work the next 2 repeats of A.1 in width as before *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rows of pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
INCREASE 2: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, * work 1 repeat of A.1 as before, increase 1 stitch in the next A.1, work the next repeat of A.1 as before *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rows of pattern.
INCREASE 3: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, * work 2 repeats of A.1 as before, increase 1 stitch in the next A.1 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 13-14-14-15-15-16 stitches increased. Work 3 rows of pattern.
Repeat increases 1 to 3 a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times (= a total of 9-9-9-9-12-12 increase-rows), then increase 1is repeated 0-1-1-1-1-1 more time (= a total of 9-10-10-10-13-13 increase-rows), then increase 2 is repeated 0-0-1-1-0-1 more time (= a total of 9-10-11-11-13-14 increase-rows) = 245-277-291-311-341-379 stitches.
Continue with pattern until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 32-37-39-43-48-56 stitches (= front piece), place the next 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the next 63-73-76-84-95-110 stitches (= back piece), place the next 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit 32-37-38-42-48-55 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 153-173-183-199-225-255 stitches. Continue working in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of the piece. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the sleeves were placed on 1 thread, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 2½-3-3-2½-3-5 cm a total of 10-9-9-10-9-6 times = 193-209-219-239-261-279 stitches. When the piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm from where the sleeves were placed on the thread, work the next row from the wrong side as before AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 3-3-1-1-3-1 stitches evenly on row = 196-212-220-240-264-280 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm.Then work rib on the next row from the right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 2 stitches, rib (purl 2 / knit 2) until there are 5 stitches left, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work like this for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can cast off with a needle 1 size larger if necessary. The piece measures approx. 36-36-37-37-37-37 cm from where the sleeves were separated from the body and a total of 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles / short circular needle.
Place the 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve, insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches = 62-68-74-76-82-86 stitches. Work stocking stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm from where the sleeves were separated from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 3 cm a total of 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 54-60-64-66-70-74 stitches.
Then increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm a total of 7-6-6-7-7-7 times = 68-72-76-80-84-88 stitches. Change to short circular needle when necessary. When the piece measures 37-37-36-36-34-33 cm from where the sleeve was separated from the body, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. Then work rib (= purl 2 / knit 2) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 stitches evenly on round = 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the piece measures 42-42-41-41-39-38 cm from where the sleeve was separated from the body and a total of 63-65-65-67-67-68 cm from the neck. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.04.2018
Updated diagram and updated the increase tip 1 section

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side (= knitted stitch)
= knit from wrong side
= In the yoke shaping section, this is the stitch you increase before or after alternately. See Increase tip 1

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Francine 22.11.2019 - 20:01:

Bonjour,j'ai une difficulté avec les augmentations de l'empiecement: je n'obtiens pas le même nombre de mailles entre les lignes. Faut-il augmenter avant et après la maille A1 sur le même rang? Merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 08:07:

Bonjour Francine, on augmente dans 1 motif de A.1 sur 3 tous les 4 rangs, ainsi on va d'abord augmenter 1 m dans le 1er A.1, puis tricoter les 2 suivants comme avant; la 2ème fois, on augmente 1 m dans le 2ème A.1 (les 2 premiers A.1 ont le même nombre de mailles, le dernier se tricote comme avant). La 3ème fois, augmente dans le 3ème A.1, ainsi tous les A.1 ont le même nombre de mailles. On répète ces 3 types d'augmentations le nombre de fois requis pour la taille. En fonction de la taille, le nombre de mailles dans chaque A.1 sera différent à la fin de l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

Kristina Skjemstad 02.10.2019 - 22:15:

Det står ulike størrelser, men jeg finner ingen steder det står hvor stor - altså mål på de ulike størrelsene. Så da er spørsmålet hvor stor er de ulike størrelsene?

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 07:10:

Hej. Du finner målskiss längst ner på oppskriften, där ser du mål i alla storlekar. Lycka till!

Ann Kristin 08.07.2019 - 19:20:

Når vi skifter til pinne 5, hvilken omgang skal vi begynne på i mønster; rettomgang eller xx0?

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 07:32:

Hei Ann Kristin, Du begynner på første omgang; dvs, rett fra retten. God fornøyelse!

Lyne 16.04.2019 - 00:20:

Je ne comprend pas bien les explications pour les augmentations. L'empiecement ne fait de belles lignes comme on voit sur le modèle. Pouvez vous m'aider ?

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 10:23:

Bonjour Lyne, vous devez augmenter d'abord avant la m endroit de A.1 puis après la m endroit de A.1, cette maille endroit doit continuer tout du long pour former les fameuses lignes. Les augmentations vont se faire dans les mailles point mousse entre les mailles endroit. Bon tricot!

Monika Bourgat 22.03.2019 - 11:56:

Hi, möchte die Jacke 2 faedig mit Alpaca und Alpaca Kid silk stricken.....beides Gruppe A...Reichen 200g Alpaca wolle und wieviel gramm Alpaca kid silk benötige ich....?????

DROPS Design 22.03.2019 kl. 13:33:

Liebe Frau Bourgat, hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen sowie wie man die neue Garnmenge kalkuliert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne Marie 25.08.2018 - 15:26:

Det står at det økes på hver 4. pinne (= fra retten). Vil ikke det si på retten og vrangen annenhver gang?

DROPS Design 28.08.2018 kl. 08:07:

Hei Anne Marie, Du øker hver 4. pinne (eller 2. hver pinne fra retten). God fornøyelse!

Anne Maroe 25.08.2018 - 15:24:

Det står at det økes på hver 4. pinne (= fra retten). Vil ikke det si på retten og vrangen annenhver gang?

Lone Skov 22.08.2018 - 12:53:

Hvor finder jeg diagram A-1 nu har jeg prøvet flere gange men det er her ikke, i har ellers lavet rettelser. Hilsen Lone Skov

DROPS Design 23.08.2018 kl. 09:07:

Hei Lone. Diagram A.1 ligger helt i bunnen av siden, til høyre for målskissen. Vi har nå sjekket, og det er synlig fra både pc og mobil når vi sjekker. Får du det ikke opp uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker?

Emmi 09.07.2018 - 11:46:

Ohjeen ensimmäisessä lisäysvinkissä sanotaan "Lisää silmukat vuorotellen ennen piirroksen A.1 viimeistä oikeaa silmukkaa ja piirroksen A.1 viimeisen oikean silmukan jälkeen" Tarkoittaako tämä saman lisäyskierroksen aikana vai niin että ekalla lisäyskierroksella lisätään ensimmäisen silmukan jälkeen ja seuraavalla lisäyskierroksella ennen oikean ouoleista silmukkaa?

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 17:52:

Hei, ensimmäisellä lisäyskerroksella lisäykset tehdään ennen piirroksen A.1 viimeistä oikeaa silmukkaa, seuraavalla lisäyskerroksella lisäykset tehdään viimeisen oikean silmukan jälkeen, jne.

Kristiina 24.04.2018 - 15:12:

Monesta kielestä puuttuu piirrokset (A1 ja mittapiirros), katsoin monta kieltä ennen kuin norjankielisestä löytyi.

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