DROPS / 184 / 22

Telegram Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with multi-coloured pattern and raglan. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS design: Pattern u-818
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour no 01, off white
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 05, black

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS METAL BUTTON (uneven), NO 534: 8-8-8-9-9-9 pieces
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch. Choose diagram for your size.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

KNITTING TIP-2 (applies to yoke on jacket):
If knitting tension is incorrect in height and there are more rows vertically on 10 cm than stated in pattern the yoke will be too short and the armhole too small. This can be compensated by working 1 extra row in stocking stitch evenly on yoke.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 272 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 44) = 6.1. In this example work approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). On next row work yarn over twisted It should not make a hole.

RAGLAN:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease for raglan on each side of every A.6 as follows:
Decrease 1 stitch after A.6 as follows: Slip last stitch in A.6, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before A.6 as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before A.6, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). I.e. decrease 2 stitches at every A.6 and 8 stitches in total on row.

BUTTONHOLES (applies to right band):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band.
When band measures approx. 1.5 cm, decrease for 8-8-8-9-9-9 buttonholes evenly (decrease for buttonholes in purl sections seen from right side). 1 buttonhole = purl 2 together and make 1 yarn over – top buttonhole should be approx. 2 cm from the top, the other buttonholes should be approx. 7-8 cm apart.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Sleeves are work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Join the parts together and work yoke back and forth. Work band back and forth at the end.

BODY:
Cast on 276-288-320-332-372-388 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm with black. Work as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2), until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 5 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm and knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 39-45-53-47-57-55 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 237-243-267-285-315-333 stitches.
Work 1 row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 60-60-66-72-78-84 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, and work this stitch in stocking stitch, work 113-119-131-137-155-161 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, and work this stitch in stocking stitch, work 60-60-66-72-78-84 stitches in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= front piece). Markers shows sides of garment.
Then work next row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in base colour in pattern, A.1 (= 6 stitches) until 2 stitches remain (= 39-40-44-47-52-55 times in width), and finish with A.2 over next stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch - read KNITTING TIP-1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a and A.2a vertically.
When piece measures 39-41-40-42-41-43 cm, work A.3 over A.1 and A.4 over A.2. When you have worked up to arrow in A.3, work next row in A.3 as follows: Work the first 58-58-64-70-76-82 stitches as before, cast off 3 stitches before marker and 4 stitches after marker (= 7 stitches in total), work the next 107-113-125-131-149-155 stitches as before, cast off 3 stitches before marker and 4 stitches after marker (= 7 stitches), work the last 58-58-64-70-76-82 stitches as before. Piece measures approx. 44-44-44-45-45-45 cm. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed. Cast on 48-52-56-60-64-64 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). When piece measures 5 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking stitch while decreasing 6-8-8-10-12-10 stitches evenly = 42-44-48-50-52-54 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 1 round with black, then work next round as follows: Work 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.5, work A.1 over the next 42-42-48-48-48-54 stitches (= 7-7-8-8-8-9 repetitions), finish with 0-1-0-1-2-0 stitches A.5. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.1a. When piece measures 6 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 12-14-15-17-19-21 times in total = 66-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. Work stitches in A.5 and the increased stitches in the pattern. When piece measures 38-39-37-37-34-35 cm, work A.3 over A.1. When all stitches under sleeve have been increased, work A.3 11-12-13-14-15-16 times in total in width. When you have worked up to arrow in A.3, work next round as follows: Cast off 4 stitches, work the next 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches as before, cast off the last 3 stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 43-42-41-40-38-37 cm. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 341-359-395-425-467-497 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread between every transition between each sleeve and body before continuing. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work pattern as before until 2 stitches remain before marker thread between sleeve and body, A.6 over the next 2 stitches (= front piece), work pattern over the 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches (= sleeve), A.6 over the next 2 stitches, work pattern over the next 103-109-121-127-145-151 stitches as before, A.6 over the next 2 stitches (= back piece), work pattern over the next 59-65-71-77-83-89 stitches (= sleeve), A.6 over the next 2 stitches, pattern as before until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch – read KNITTING TIP-2. Continue pattern like this and decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above, every other row 26-29-31-33-36-39 times in total = 133-127-147-161-179-185 stitches. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, switch to black. Work 1 row with black. Yoke measures approx. 19-21-23-24-26-28 cm.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back. Work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the neck edge if you don’t want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle (= mid back).
Knit 30-30-34-34-40-40 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60-60-68-68-80-80. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 54-54-61-61-72-72, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-48-54-54-64-64. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 42-42-48-48-56-56, turn, tighten yarn and purl 36-36-42-42-48-48. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 30-30-35-35-40-40, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-24-28-28-32-32, turn, tighten yarn and work the rest of row.

NECK EDGE:
On next row from right side decrease as follows: Knit 27-24-29-34-37-40 and decrease 3-0-4-6-9-10 stitches evenly, work the next 18 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 9 stitches decreased), knit 44-44-54-58-70-70 and decrease 5-0-8-10-18-18 stitches evenly, work the next 18 stitches together 2 by 2 (= 9 stitches decreased), knit the last 26-23-28-33-36-39 and decrease 3-1-5-7-10-11 stitches evenly = 104-108-112-120-124-128 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work next row as follows: Knit 1, * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), purl 1 *, work from *-* until 3-7-11-19-3-7 stitches remain, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until 3 stitches remain, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 124-128-132-140-148-152 stitches. Work yarn overs twisted in rib (i.e. knit 2/purl 2) on next row to avoid holes. When rib measures 3 cm, cast off knit over knit and purl over purl.

LEFT BAND:
Work band back and forth on circular needle size 3 mm with black.
Pick up 174-210 stitches (number of stitches must be divisible by 4 + 2) on circular needle size 3 mm with black inside 1 edge stitch from right side. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Work rib (= purl 2/knit 2) until 2 stitches remain, finish with knit 2. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until rib measures 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left band but decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening under each sleeve in front loop of outermost stiches. Sew on buttons on left band.

Diagram

= black
= off white



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 184-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (3)

Fiona Murphy 19.06.2019 - 09:27:

I would suggest putting the "raglan instructions" in with the yoke instructions at the point where the decreases start, otherwise it is easy to forget that the decreases have to be done on both sides of each stitch marker, even if you have read the raglan instructions at the outset. It would also be easier if the chart rows were numbered as I always have to number them myself before I start using them.

Lise 09.06.2019 - 20:40:

Does one carry both yarns; black and white all along (except of course for bottom of sweater and bottom of arms? If it is the case I presume it is a very heavy sweater. Beautiful though.

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 11:18:

Dear Lise, you will carry the yarn only when working a row with 2 colours at the same time ( see our videos to fair ise here and there. Happy knitting!

Karin Reuting 16.11.2017 - 22:38:

Hallo Drops Team Was bedeutet "fell av 3 Maschen vor merket " ? dies ist in der Anleitung nicht übersetzt. Gruß Karin

DROPS Design 17.11.2017 kl. 09:12:

Liebe Frau Reuting, danke für den Hinweis, es wird korrigiert - fell av 3 Maschen vor merket = 3 Maschen vor dem Markierer abketten - Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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